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1963 project


protrash63

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On 9/25/2021 at 9:21 PM, protrash63 said:

OK............thought I would get further today but decided I had to do some cleaning and planning on all the parts that were coming off the car.  Made some good progress and now I have to get it to turn the corner and go back together so I can set it down and pull the engine. Where am I gonna put the engine and trans???? One thing that has to be considered when you get into these things is room for the parts. Im no create a spread sheet type guy but some thought sure helps or it becomes overwhelming.  Probably get the rest of it apart tomorrow.

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Even if you are not normally a "make a list" person, on the type of job you are doing here you need to start! Plus, photos, photos, and more photos but it looks like you are doing that.

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Strip the engine of usable somewhat valuable parts & put the rest outside. Now you don't have to worry about tripping over a complete engine & smaller parts are easier to breakdown/store/move.

The oil filter adapter, heads, exhaust manifolds, distributor, timing cover, (IF not corroded too badly) harmonic balancer bolt & washer, flexplate IF not bent, possibly the crank & other 7 rods with pistons IF good/OK.

This will help to pay for another engine.

 

Tom T.

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8 hours ago, telriv said:

Strip the engine of usable somewhat valuable parts & put the rest outside. Now you don't have to worry about tripping over a complete engine & smaller parts are easier to breakdown/store/move.

The oil filter adapter, heads, exhaust manifolds, distributor, timing cover, (IF not corroded too badly) harmonic balancer bolt & washer, flexplate IF not bent, possibly the crank & other 7 rods with pistons IF good/OK.

This will help to pay for another engine.

 

Tom T.

Yep, pretty much what I was thinking of doing.......and I have the engine but it may need some machine work!

Edited by protrash63
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OK, so been bustin it out and have the whole suspension off the car as far as I'm going to take it. I have worked myself into a corner here so I am going to complete the suspension and get this back on the ground ASAP....which will be about a month as far as I can estimate.

 

On another note, I talked to coil spring specialties and its pretty amazing they can get your ride height dialed in to about a 1/4 inch I think he said...

 

The engine/trans cant come out until I have it back down. My shop isnt wide enough to pull it with the car positioned as it is. I dont have a paved drive or apron so its too precarious to do right now.

 

Here are the goods........

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Everything is off and have have started to blast greasy rat turds and a heavy layer of under coat off the frame and associated components. Not fun, but I like painting things and having them look nice so I guess I'll continue. I may try to pull the engine anyway despite my reluctance just to get at the frame and engine compartment to prep for paint. Parts should start going back in next week given my schedule and motivation.  The weather out here has finally cooled some which makes it way easier to work.

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Continuing disassembly tonite under the hood. Bat/horn relay put up a fight and I am considering taking out the engine harness just to get it out of the way. Got in to the heater box and this is the way this thing goes....take it apart and then vac it up for awhile.  Yuck.

 

Im going to try and get the engine out as its in the way...we'll see. 

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As I previously mentioned the engine was in the way of getting things cleaned up...I basically had it disconnected so after my adventure with the AC components I went ahead and yanked it out. Its going to be tough to tell what the stance looks like when I get the suspension back together until the engine goes in so thats a negative but sure makes getting things clean a lot easier...sitting in the shop on a precarious pile of wood until I summon my carpentry skills and build something more permanent.

 

For all the statisticians I did some measuring....  engine mount to trans mount on the 401/Dyna is 40". On the 401/st400 it is 46".  Some fab work in the future...

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Here is a taste of what Ive been dealing with as I've disassembled things... look in the trans mount to see the pile of dirt, turds, and sticks that are packed in there. I was already under the car cleaning it out some to find the trans linkage. This whole thing is like a beaver dam!

 

Only damage done was cutting the speedo cable...I couldn't get it undone so I went for it!  lol 

 

And for efficiencies sake, I drained the trans at the same time I was pulling the engine!

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Edited by protrash63 (see edit history)
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19 hours ago, protrash63 said:

Here is a taste of what Ive been dealing with as I've disassembled things... look in the trans mount to see the pile of dirt, turds, and sticks that are packed in there. I was already under the car cleaning it out some to find the trans linkage. This whole thing is like a beaver dam!

 

Only damage done was cutting the speedo cable...I couldn't get it undone so I went for it!  lol 

 

And for efficiencies sake, I drained the trans at the same time I was pulling the engine!

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You are a brave man - and glutton for punishment! (So was I in my younger days) I hope to God you are wearing a respirator when handling all that dust and rat poop!

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Spent the day today cleaning up and carting parts around. Trying to get piles of parts outta the way as these things tend to expand as one removes more and more. Finally broke out the line wrenches and got rid of the brake lines. Small progress while I scratch my head for awhile but this week should prove to be fruitful if I have time to work on things as I have many work requests this week....gotta pay for some parts!!

 

Anyway, they all cracked loose so I quit while I was ahead!

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On 10/2/2021 at 6:18 PM, protrash63 said:

engine mount to trans mount on the 401/Dyna is 40". On the 401/st400 it is 46".  Some fab work in the future..

No need to fab anything in this area. Well, maybe new holes in the frame. What you need is a 1964 - 65 Riviera Trans X-Member.

It's so small, when I purchased mine at a self-serve auto wrecker, they quoted "$20 for that there bracket"!

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Ok, still going at it in between different jobs this week. Doesn't look like much but a lot of work getting it all cleaned up. Hitting it with degreaser and about to start some final prep and hopefully get some paint on things this weekend. Still waiting on parts as well. 

 

I was under the Xmember and a rat turd fell in my ear! :D ....at least thats what I imagined, anyway. 

 

I'm trying not to be too OCD but Ima gonna hafta pull the steering gear...its completely crud coated....no way around it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Haven't posted in a bit but been busy with jobs and been waiting on a few parts. Things are happening and about to turn the corner on some of this stuff.

 

So have prepped much of the under hood and frame areas and could never stand the seam seal across the firewall. Wire wheeled it out, filled with fiberglass, and some spot filler to even it up. Primed the frame lightly and have now done the inner fenders and firewall as well. 

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After pulling the original booster it was full of brake fluid, so I searched and looked at many different brake options and decided to go with the CPP set up and it doesn't fit. Nice!!!  The lines to the prop valve hit the inner fender. I'm a veteran of quite a few brake systems now so I will move the valve and re plumb; not worth the time to send back etc.

These pics show the primered firewall and inner fenders...

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Today,  after 3 weeks finally got the suspension pieces back from powdercoat.....took longer than expected. I will now be able to press in ball joints and start assembling the front end after painting the frame which will happen tommorrow after a little more prep on the inner fenders up front in the wheelwells. Unfortunately my center link looks like it will need to be rebuilt. I hate being at the mercy of others schedules...

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Wanted to get the the part numbers recorded for the poly bushings for the front suspension and this was the easiest way....a pic. These are the major components. LCA, strut, ball joint boots, and the sway bar bushings I'm using. Stock bar is 15/16ths or 24mm when I measured so this is what I chose. 

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.........and, as I need to yank the AC components I started inside removing the seats.  I made .73 cents! I also found a nice hole in the pass side floor pan. Crap! Got a pan on the way and will patch that in shortly. I found the rust under the car when I was crawling around but didnt think it was this big...which isnt bad. Just weird how one spot rusts and the rest is solid.

 

Finally, its getting covered up for spraying paint if I can get myself to stop sanding parts!

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1 hour ago, steelman said:

At this point, best to check the heater core. Most likely reason for the rust in the floor. Seats and console have to be out to do it from inside, so you have a good head start. Another one of these might as well while I’m here deals…

 That was my first thought as well....it will be coming out as I'm planning on doing a Vintage Air install. I'm calling them today because I need components for my 64 'Burb as well.

 

Any resto guys need original AC stuff contact me and we 'll work something out. I'm keeping it all together but not using it.  TexRiv63 has given me a few ideas!

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Now is the time to upgrade to the bigger front & rear sway bars I've helped designed back in 69-70 along with  the faster ratio steering box & new complete rag joint.

Since you purchased poly front strut rod bushings modify the rear bushing to pull the lower control arm forward for more a positive caster adjustment.

IF your not going to discs in the front there is NO need for a prop valve. When going to discs in the front I use a metering block. Does the same thing as the prop valve with a whole lot less plumbing. Something new, not really, can be learned here with loads less work.

 

Tom T.

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13 hours ago, protrash63 said:

Today,  after 3 weeks finally got the suspension pieces back from powdercoat.....took longer than expected. I will now be able to press in ball joints and start assembling the front end after painting the frame which will happen tommorrow after a little more prep on the inner fenders up front in the wheelwells. Unfortunately my center link looks like it will need to be rebuilt. I hate being at the mercy of others schedules...

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Is that a hammertone finish on those parts? Looks great.

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10 hours ago, TexRiv_63 said:

Is that a hammertone finish on those parts? Looks great.

 

Well, I wanted black but ordered 'silver vein'. I believe this is the result of the combination of the two but I'm not quite sure. Finished with a semi gloss clear which has to be done with the silver vein.  I love it and it saved me cleaning all the parts! 

 

I love hammertone paints and usually pick one color and rattle up all the associated parts in that color....my Dually has black, 64 shorty gold, etc. Tough stuff as well.

 

Coming soon is one of your ideas I embellished slightly!!  :D

Edited by protrash63 (see edit history)
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12 hours ago, telriv said:

 

Since you purchased poly front strut rod bushings modify the rear bushing to pull the lower control arm forward for more a positive caster adjustment.

 

 

Tom T.

  Wouldnt it be easier to shim the upper at the front?

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Won't give you the desired positive caster we're looking for. You want as much positive caster that can be had. Usually you only can get +2 IF you're lucky. Often times much less.

After doing all this work why not have a vehicle you can enjoy driving while cruising down the road in comfort & style. Isn't that what you are trying to acheive when the time comes???

 

Tom T.

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On 10/21/2021 at 5:52 AM, steelman said:

Most likely reason for the rust in the floor.

Exactly. My passenger side floor was replaced along with the 🆖 heater core and hoses to replace the bypass. Coolant not maintained by previous Owners.

 

On 10/20/2021 at 9:59 PM, protrash63 said:

Today,  after 3 weeks finally got the suspension pieces back from powdercoat

Nice to see the project progressing!

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8 hours ago, XframeFX said:

 

 

Nice to see the project progressing!

Thanks Xframe......said I was going to paint and still haven't as I keep finding things to sand. Pulled out the lower control arm bushings yesterday so I think its happening today, 10/23

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Ok, took a couple extra days but I eventually got there. If any of you have painted before your focus is so close that it is easy to pick out things to correct which seems to be never ending.  At some point you have to just decide that you will live with the results.  I wasnt even trying to be to picky!!!  Anyway, it's painted and looks pretty good for this bucket.

 

Now I can start stuffing in the bushings and putting things together.

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7 hours ago, protrash63 said:

your focus is so close that it is easy to pick out things to correct which seems to be never ending.

 

I'll bet 95% of those things will be invisible once you get all of the necessary bits reinstalled where they belong...  ;)

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

 

I'll bet 95% of those things will be invisible once you get all of the necessary bits reinstalled where they belong...  ;)

Ya, pretty much, and you are correct. However, its the details that get the paint to stick if you are going to the trouble of doing it. I wire wheeled, metal etched, degreased, sanded, primed lightly 2X's, sanded the primer again, and wiped all surfaces with a prep before paint.  

 

I'm also trying to get into body mode for the Suburban in my shop. I'm going to paint the entire thing inside and out and its been a bear to think about.  Thats a LOT of sanding. I dont know how body guys do it.

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32 minutes ago, RivNut said:

0FE4AAC3-3E4A-48C6-9ACE-47CBBEDA7312.jpeg.79442e52549a56f0194d9226dde98e8f.jpeg

 

 

How many can tell by looking at this picture that this car does or does not have a tilt wheel?
@ Protrash63  you’re not allowed to answer 🤫🙂

Non tilt, unless someone installed a bearing and carrier in the bottom of the steering tube.

Tom Mooney

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On 10/24/2021 at 7:47 PM, protrash63 said:

get into body mode for the Suburban in my shop.

Ha, I did a colour change on an '80s Fleet Suburban back in my single days. Make it look unfleet to use as trade-in for my '87 Grand National which was in-transit at the time. Purchase-from-hell that evolved into detail shop from hell, taking joy rides in my new car before I got to!

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On 10/28/2021 at 3:37 PM, drhach said:

So when do you start the engine rebuild? 

  Unknown time frame on that at this point......trying to get the suspension done so I can at least position the car in my shop. I have it in there kinda weird angle right now. This winter I'm going to take a look at the new 401 and see what it looks like.

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