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My "new" 1930 Pierce Arrow

Joe Cocuzza

By Joe Cocuzza
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zepher 10,000+ Points

zepher

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And you might want to start looking for hood corners.

I thought there was someone in the PAS that reproduced some but I don't remember what years they were for.

Leather may be correct for '30 but I'm not sure.

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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49 minutes ago, zepher said:

And you might want to start looking for hood corners.

I thought there was someone in the PAS that reproduced some but I don't remember what years they were for.

Leather may be correct for '30 but I'm not sure.

Correct.

I have been looking around

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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On 8/22/2021 at 4:17 PM, edinmass said:

The winter front is controlled by a shutter thermostat in the top tank of the radiator.........don’t worry, it’s not working! Just the joy of an early car. Nothing 400 bucks won’t fix...........😎
 

 

You need some hood door latch levers........

Ed,

Anyone making hood corner pads for this car?

Joe

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edinmass 25,000+ Points

edinmass

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I expect to see leather hood corners on a 1930.........maybe others can chime in. They  could have been different on each series.....rubber/leather..........1930 isn’t my year I study. George would be a good source for this info.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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trimacar 25,000+ Points

trimacar

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Original hood corners were shaped metal with a rubber like coating.

 

Top rests are actually very simple, I’ll get some pictures tomorrow,  Basically a bent steel rod with two 90 degree bends, threads on one end that screw into body sockets.  Simple saddle for top iron to rest in.

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edinmass 25,000+ Points

edinmass

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Dave......,haven’t seen the vulcanized units for sale since the 80”s. Is anyone making them now? Seems to me I have only seen leather recently. 

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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Cannot for the life of me get #4 cylinder spark plug out.

Sprayed PB Blaster on it but it is sealed so well that the lubricant doesn't get to the threads - it just sits in the plug well on the head - after days of soaking.

I heated it, but probably not enough, and it still won't budge.

I was using a 1/2" drive socket and breaker bar.

At this point, to avoid damaging anything, I am leaving it alone.

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pmhowe 5,000+ Points

pmhowe

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I have been told that using an impact wrench to loosen a frozen bolt is far less likely to cause a problem than using a breaker bar. I think the caveat is that the socket must be a good fit to the bolt head. I'd like to hear from the experts on this. I think impact wrenches have gotten a bad reputation from inexperienced users using them to over tighten things like wheel lug nuts.

Phil

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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2 hours ago, pmhowe said:

I have been told that using an impact wrench to loosen a frozen bolt is far less likely to cause a problem than using a breaker bar. I think the caveat is that the socket must be a good fit to the bolt head. I'd like to hear from the experts on this. I think impact wrenches have gotten a bad reputation from inexperienced users using them to over tighten things like wheel lug nuts.

Phil

I don't know why this plug is being so stubborn - #5 was somewhat difficult to remove but I got it out by slowly working it back and forth.

Thought about the impact wrench but not sure if it will do any damage. I know the impact wrench sends "vibrations" through the socket which can help in loosening things up but I DO NOT want to damage the head (threads) which will cost me big $$$$$$ to repair all because of a $10.00 spark plug. I will try to heat it again (really good this time) over the weekend and see if I can get it to budge. If not then I am leaning towards leaving it alone.

 

I agree with your statement about the "overtightened" lug nuts. What I have seen(on my cars) is these same users, instead of starting the lug nuts by hand before using the impact wrench, just put the nut in the socket and then use 90-100 LBS of air pressure to "catch" the threads. I have had several lug nuts on my cars cross-threaded because of this practice and when trying to remove them the stud snaps off thereby causing additional cost/damage.

Drives me "nuts" - HAHA😬😬😬

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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Just to keep the Thread about the Pierce on track:

I haven't really been able to do much to it as I have returned to work since my surgery so my free time is limited.

However, I do try to get out to the garage once a day and I have been cleaning/polishing it.

Also, soaking the cylinders.

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John Bloom 10,000+ Points

John Bloom

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I have a neighbor who talks all the time about “thermocycling” for a stuck threaded, or compression union. He will use a product like this, which gets to -60 degrees and maintain that for several minutes, then stop and use a heat gun (can get to 400-500 degrees) on it for 20 minutes with lubricant pooled around it to hopefully seep in.  He will go back and forth doing this a few times relying on the different coefficients of thermal expansion between the two materials in union. He swears that after a few cycles, they break free. 
 

i have not done this, but can follow along with his logic.  
 

hang in there and don’t force the issue.  Keep us posted. 

CFD648AC-1A03-458F-BCA0-65C7CBD9F5D7.png

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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14 minutes ago, John Bloom said:

I have a neighbor who talks all the time about “thermocycling” for a stuck threaded, or compression union. He will use a product like this, which gets to -60 degrees and maintain that for several minutes, then stop and use a heat gun (can get to 400-500 degrees) on it for 20 minutes with lubricant pooled around it to hopefully seep in.  He will go back and forth doing this a few times relying on the different coefficients of thermal expansion between the two materials in union. He swears that after a few cycles, they break free. 
 

i have not done this, but can follow along with his logic.  
 

hang in there and don’t force the issue.  Keep us posted. 

CFD648AC-1A03-458F-BCA0-65C7CBD9F5D7.png

Worth a shot

Thanks

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edinmass 25,000+ Points

edinmass

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Leave the plug alone. One step at a time. Deal with the other seven. Get it started first. Walk before you run. Don’t fire that thing off till we talk...........best, Ed.

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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1 hour ago, edinmass said:

Leave the plug alone. One step at a time. Deal with the other seven. Get it started first. Walk before you run. Don’t fire that thing off till we talk...........best, Ed.

Ed,

I am not going to try to start the car before we talk.

I am doing things one step at a time.

I am practicing what I always preach- patience.

Just wanted to try to get the plug out but now I am going to leave it.

As I recover more and more from the surgery I will be able to do more strenuous things.

Joe

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edinmass 25,000+ Points

edinmass

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8 minutes ago, Matt Harwood said:

Whatever you do, don't break anything. If in doubt, leave it alone!


Wisdom beyond your years.........

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wayne sheldon 25,000+ Points

wayne sheldon

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I needed a good laugh. Really. And the last several posts gave me a few.

So I think I shall add, partially in jest, "And you don't want me fixing that head if you strip out the plug!"

 I always enjoy Ed M's comments about "tractor mechanics". They perfectly make a very valid point. And a "tractor mechanic" IS the ideal phrase to MAKE that point. As a point of fact, it has been a VERY long time since I actually worked on an actual tractor, but I did do a lot of my early growing up on my grandfather's ranch. I was actually driving tractors when I was six (real orchard tractors! And sometimes pulling loaded trailers!). And, I did help my dad and grandpa work on them up until the ranch was sold when I was twelve.

However, also, I have been known to do some rather shaky repair-work from time to time (not my usual thing, but sometimes?). 

Drift alert!!!!

About twelve years ago, we drove the 2001 Ford Expedition (still have it!) up to visit Linda's family, a distance of about 250 miles. On our way home, nearing sunset, the Expedition (I often refer to it as the "broken eggs pedition") blew out one spark plug. It of course was lost on the roadway, but as chance would have it, I had been chasing an ignition problem (NOT related to the plug blowing out!), and had one spare spark plug and the tools to change it with me. Nasty engine to have to work on. The spark plugs are down a deep hole in the head, about five inches down! And most of the plugs, one cannot get a straight line of sight to even see the durn thing! But, along the side of the road, I managed to get the replacement plug in. It seemed to feel more or less okay going in, yet I wondered about why the other plug (which I had never touched before) had blown out.

Well, there must have been a reason. Although the new plug seemed to thread in an appropriate number of turns, with reasonable resistance? Within another twenty miles, it also blew out. Two hundred miles! I drove that thing home (gently and a bit slower than usual to avoid potential stressing of surrounding areas?). We could be heard for blocks away!

So what to do with it? Replace the head? Ever try working on one of these things with all the wiring and plumbing involved? Replace the whole engine? The vehicle was about ten years old then, maybe still worth about five grand? I do NOT want to do that kind of work on it myself (Hara-kiri comes to mind?). And a decent mechanic would probably charge over half the vehicle's value to have it fixed (if I was lucky?). But I had an idea.

Very little research, yes, a Heli-coil kit was available for that size spark plug. So I bought one. I brazed a long-reach onto the special tap, and completely remade the insertion tool to work down that deep hole. Once threaded, I rigged a piece of tubing onto my shop-vac to draw out as many metal flakes, shavings, and dirt, as it could. Then inserted the Heli-coil. Then vacuumed it again. All working down inside that little hole, totally blind. Then I installed a new spark plug.

I really do hope I don't ever need to pull that spark plug again! But after over fifty thousand more miles? It is still holding.

A half a day, and probably the best sixty bucks I ever spent.

 

Any time someone mentions stripping spark plugs? You KNOW what I am remembering!

 

I actually do some very fine work! But I can do the other if I have to.

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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Did some "cleaning/polishing" tonight

The 1st 2 pictures show the pass side rear fender with paint splatter from a careless person.

The second 2 pictures show the same fender after hours of using a cleaner polish and a rag - and my fingers (which are very sore right now)

4th picture is the pass side luggage rack bracket

The last 2 pictures show the fan blades before and after cleaning

 

BTW (Ed or John) 

Did the Pierce Arrow come with clutch/brake pedal pads? Or was the metal pedal just exposed.

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Grimy 25,000+ Points

Grimy

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51 minutes ago, Joe Cocuzza said:

Did the Pierce Arrow come with clutch/brake pedal pads? Or was the metal pedal just exposed.

Joe, they had pedal pads from the factory with script.  My 1930 Model B roadster takes Metro Molded Parts no. CB33 (a pair under that part number) which retail at Metro for close to $300.  Strictly by accident, I found them available, after a couple of months' wait, from Rock Auto under the same part number.  At Rock Auto, search for "CB33 pad" and they'll say "out of stock."  Then you ask to be notified when available.  Whenever MMP releases excess inventory for sale by Rock, you'll get an email from Rock.  I just looked at my records and saw that I paid $140 for a pair (one order of CB33) four years ago.  Then I did it again 2 years ago for my 1934 Pierce.  If you go the Rock Auto route, suggest buying two sets, as these are slip on pads and if you drive a lot (hope you will), top or bottom lip (depending on your foot style) will give up the ghost.

 

To install, soak in near-boiling water, off the stove, for 10 minutes to make them flexible, and dry quickly with a towel, and give the metal pedal a dab of rubber cement of your choice.

 

If you have trouble finding CB33 try variations such as "CB 33" or "CB-33"

Edited by Grimy
fix typo (see edit history)
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BobinVirginia 10,000+ Points

BobinVirginia

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8 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Joe, they had pedal pads from the factory with script.  My 1930 Model B roadster takes Metro Molded Parts no. CB33 (a pair under that part number) which retail at Metro for close to $300.  Strictly by accident, I found them available, after a couple of months' wait, from Rock Auto under the same part number.  At Rock Auto, search for "CB33 pad" and they'll say "out of stock."  Then you ask to be notified when available.  Whenever MMP releases excess inventory for sale by Rock, you'll get an email from Rock.  I just looked at my records and saw that I paid $140 for a pair (one order of CB33) four years ago.  Then I did it again 2 years ago for my 1934 Pierce.  If you go the Rock Auto route, suggest buying two sets, as these are slip on pads and if you drive a lot (hope you will), top or bottom lip (depending on your foot style) will give up the ghost.

 

To install, soak in near-boiling water, off the stove, for 10 minutes to make them flexible, and dry quickly with a towel, and give the metal pedal a dab of rubber cement of your choice.

 

If you have trouble finding CB33 try variations such as "CB 33" or "CB-33"

There’s nowhere else on earth this advice on a Pierce will be found! 
What a treasure @Grimyand this forum is! 

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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56 minutes ago, Grimy said:

Joe, they had pedal pads from the factory with script.  My 1930 Model B roadster takes Metro Molded Parts no. CB33 (a pair under that part number) which retail at Metro for close to $300.  Strictly by accident, I found them available, after a couple of months' wait, from Rock Auto under the same part number.  At Rock Auto, search for "CB33 pad" and they'll say "out of stock."  Then you ask to be notified when available.  Whenever MMP releases excess inventory for sale by Rock, you'll get an email from Rock.  I just looked at my records and saw that I paid $140 for a pair (one order of CB33) four years ago.  Then I did it again 2 years ago for my 1934 Pierce.  If you go the Rock Auto route, suggest buying two sets, as these are slip on pads and if you drive a lot (hope you will), top or bottom lip (depending on your foot style) will give up the ghost.

 

To install, soak in near-boiling water, off the stove, for 10 minutes to make them flexible, and dry quickly with a towel, and give the metal pedal a dab of rubber cement of your choice.

 

If you have trouble finding CB33 try variations such as "CB 33" or "CB-33"

Thanks for the info

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edinmass 25,000+ Points

edinmass

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I need a set of pedal pads for my 1917 White.......with the dealership name on them.........somehow I don’t think Rock Auto will have any, then again........I would have bet ten to one against the Pierce pads.......that is very strange!

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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27 minutes ago, edinmass said:

I need a set of pedal pads for my 1917 White.......with the dealership name on them.........somehow I don’t think Rock Auto will have any, then again........I would have bet ten to one against the Pierce pads.......that is very strange!

Ed,

Rock Auto doesn't list White under "makes" so I don't believe they have any parts for your car.

 

Strange as it is that they have the Pierce pads I am happy they do.

Going to order them a little later.

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Grimy 25,000+ Points

Grimy

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Joe, I couldn't get a display out of the link.  I *think* that Rock Auto sells at a discount excess inventory from various suppliers (talking only about vintage repro parts here) and uses the manufacturers' part numbers.  So if you get the Steele or MMP part numbers and search for them on Rock's website, you may be able to save a few bucks.  However, I don't trust Rock's applications listings for repro parts like those we're discussing--that is, rely on the source's part numbers.

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Joe Cocuzza 10,000+ Points

Joe Cocuzza

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1 hour ago, JACK M said:

I see those on RA.

Will these fit my 32? They look the same.

Joe make your order and I will then see if they have another pair.

Jack,

I put my order in this afternoon.

They are delayed for a week so I won't get them until around 09/22.

These should fit your 32

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