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My "new" 1930 Pierce Arrow


Joe Cocuzza

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If you don’t have a pressure pot, pull all the plugs out, and crank it until it has oil pressure. Do it several times. Also make sure you pull the valve covers and squirt oil all over everything. On the initial start up I would run some two-stroke motor oil in the gas. Run non-alcohol if you can get it. 

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3 hours ago, edinmass said:

If you don’t have a pressure pot, pull all the plugs out, and crank it until it has oil pressure. Do it several times. Also make sure you pull the valve covers and squirt oil all over everything. On the initial start up I would run some two-stroke motor oil in the gas. Run non-alcohol if you can get it. 

All the plugs are out. Have cranked it over several times to build oil pressure. (But will do it several more times)

Valve covers were off (oil squirted on everything) - valve covers then installed with new gaskets.

Non-alcohol is all I run in any of my old cars.

There is so much oil/lubrication in that engine that if/when it fires there is going to be a HUGE cloud of smoke.

So I am probably going to (pull) it out of the garage before really trying to start it

 

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15 hours ago, Joe Cocuzza said:

So I am probably going to (pull) it out of the garage before really trying to start it

 

Yes, I made the mistake of closing the garage door so smoke wouldn't go in the shop and stained the door with a huge black spatter.

Would have been different if I was smart enough to turn the stupid thing around.

Love your car Joe.

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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

 

Yes, I made the mistake of closing the garage door so smoke wouldn't go in the shop and stained the door with a huge black spatter.

Would have been different if I was smart enough to turn the stupid thing around.

Love your car Joe.

Thanks for the compliment on the car.

The car is in the garage with the rear toward the door BUT it is still going to smoke like mad if started.

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Another small step - or a big one depending on how you look at it........

 

I just put all of the plugs back in and sprayed a little carb cleaner into the carb and cranked the engine over.

Holy crap....IT SPUTTERED !!!!!!! (meaning it fired a little) 

I was doing this alone so that is all I was able to do so far.

I feel like Dr. Frankenstein - "IT'S ALIVE"......- Well, almost

 

And yes, I have the fuel pump disconnected on both ends for now

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need to know if there is a return spring that is connected to the accelerator pedal linkage ( I would assume that there should be but???)

Also, if so, can someone please post a picture of one on a car so I can see how/where it goes.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Moving along slowly.

Waiting on the fuel pump rebuild kit.

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5 minutes ago, Joe Cocuzza said:

I need to know if there is a return spring that is connected to the accelerator pedal linkage ( I would assume that there should be but???)

Also, if so, can someone please post a picture of one on a car so I can see how/where it goes.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Moving along slowly.

Waiting on the fuel pump rebuild kit.

Give me a day or two and I'll get you photos, Joe.

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4 hours ago, Mark Wetherbee said:

This is what was on my 31. The forward stud on the rear valve cover has an L bracket for the spring, and there’s an adjustable strap on the throttle rod all hidden behind the air cleaner.

F72E4F8E-305B-484B-8687-8ADD542366CF.jpeg

Thanks.

I figured that's what those little brackets were for. Just wasn't 100% sure

Now I need to figure out what spring (tension-wise) to get for it - unless someone has one !!!!!!!!?????

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4 hours ago, Joe Cocuzza said:

Thanks.

I figured that's what those little brackets were for. Just wasn't 100% sure

Now I need to figure out what spring (tension-wise) to get for it - unless someone has one !!!!!!!!?????

 

Looks like a wood screen door spring to me.  The hardware store that I purchased three for my Model F project had I think 4 or 5 different lengths.  What is the length of you spring in a relaxed position?

Edited by Larry Schramm (see edit history)
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It actually was a shortened screen door spring and I cut it off at a length that looked good. You can compare it to the hole spacing on the cover as it’s not heavily pre-loaded as you see it. I will add that the tension is still on the strong side as my “cruise control” (aka the throttle lever on the column) doesn’t hold as it should…

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20 hours ago, Mark Wetherbee said:

It actually was a shortened screen door spring and I cut it off at a length that looked good. You can compare it to the hole spacing on the cover as it’s not heavily pre-loaded as you see it. I will add that the tension is still on the strong side as my “cruise control” (aka the throttle lever on the column) doesn’t hold as it should…

That's what I was talking about.  You need it long enough to have access to the clamp, but not enough tension to destroy the holding action on your hand throttle for fast idle (at least).

Edited by Grimy
fix typo (see edit history)
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18 hours ago, edinmass said:

You can adjust the tension on the spring....... just slide the clamp up and down the rod. 

Here is the only pic I have of my hooky setup.

The car is not here to look but for some reason I seem to think the tab on the shaft was welded.

 

 

IMG_8022.JPG

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21 hours ago, JACK M said:

Here is the only pic I have of my hooky setup.

The car is not here to look but for some reason I seem to think the tab on the shaft was welded.

 

 

IMG_8022.JPG

Thanks for the pic.

I went to the hardware store and bought a spring and hooked it up.

It looks like it will work - will need to make sure and tweek it if needed.

DSCF5570.JPG

 

Edited by Joe Cocuzza
bad picture (see edit history)
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Have not been updating on anything because, other than the return spring mentioned above, I haven't done anything else - with good reason..

I had to have a 2nd hernia operation on 12/08/21 (the 1st one was on 07/21/21) so I am knocked out of commission for a bit.

All work on the Pierce (for now) has been put on hold.

BTW, I got the fuel pump rebuild kit and will attempt to rebuild it as soon as I feel up to it.

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47 minutes ago, JACK M said:

Get yourself better ASAP, 

We all want to see you driving this car.

Thanks.

This second go-round has been rough(er) so far.

Anything that needs to be done to the car at this point requires a lot of bending/twisting/lifting.

So it will be a few weeks before I can "dig in" again - and now it's cold which ain't gonna help matters.....

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1 hour ago, wayne sheldon said:

You better take good care of YOU for awhile!

You do understand of course, that we want you well so that you can get back to fixing this beautiful Classic and begin driving it so that we may enjoy seeing it! (Tongue firmly in cheek!)

 

Do take good care of you!

Thanks for the well wishes

Right now, because I am not feeling great, it's easy to put aside the urge(s) to work on the car.

However, once I start to feel a little better, it then becomes difficult to fight the boredom. So that leads into wanting to jump right back in and continue the progress I have made. BUT, jumping back in too soon will only set me back even more so I have to try to stave off the boredom

without getting involved in things that are strenuous (at this point) which is the difficult part.

Thanks again for the well wishes (from everyone)

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@Joe Cocuzza I hope your recovery goes well and you are back to whipping your Pierce into shape.

About 12 years ago I had major hernia surgery. Doc told me you an get hernias in 4 places, I had them in 3 of the 4.

Healing was slower than I expected and the boredom was overwhelming at times because I have never been sedentary.

 

But take the time to heal up right, so you can keep us entertained with your progress.

I know I'll be waiting patiently to cheer on your progress when you're back at it.

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I felt well enough today to "rebuild" the Pierce fuel pump - (while sitting in front of the TV watching TCM - for inspiration you know)

Took it out to the garage and "tested" it - it works now.

Maybe I'll feel up to installing it in the next few days. I know it's not a tough job to do but recovering from this 2nd (do-over) hernia operation has me a bit tentative when it comes to trying to push it a little.

Edited by Joe Cocuzza (see edit history)
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Bending over that fender to reach into the engine compartment may not be the best idea at this point.

You'll be in that bent over position for more than just a few minutes and that may not be good.

 

All I'm saying is, just take it slow and be careful.

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26 minutes ago, zepher said:

Bending over that fender to reach into the engine compartment may not be the best idea at this point.

You'll be in that bent over position for more than just a few minutes and that may not be good.

 

All I'm saying is, just take it slow and be careful.

You got that right.......

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Having been in your shoes with the operation (I had three hernia operations on the same side about 8 weeks apart when I was younger) I can not emphasize enough how important it is to take it slow. I can understand the frustration and want to get back to work and the uneasiness of waiting to get to it. Good luck with the fuel pump. Wish you lived close by, I'd love to help. Have a great Christmas.

 

Ron of Florida

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54 minutes ago, Ron of Chicago said:

Having been in your shoes with the operation (I had three hernia operations on the same side about 8 weeks apart when I was younger) I can not emphasize enough how important it is to take it slow. I can understand the frustration and want to get back to work and the uneasiness of waiting to get to it. Good luck with the fuel pump. Wish you lived close by, I'd love to help. Have a great Christmas.

 

Ron of Florida

Thanks Ron,

I wish I lived closer to YOU. If you're in Florida the weather would be one obstacle I wouldn't have to contend with.

It's tough just sitting around especially when you start to feel better. 

I am heeding the advice from members here (to a degree;)) about taking it easy and moving slowly.

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  • 4 months later...

Have not been updating on the car because I have not been able to get back into it yet. Not enough time.

However, I do have a question.

I did try to drain the gas tank on Sunday but I was unable to remove the drain plug. 

Here's the question:

It looks like I would need to use a 3/8" square drive to fit into the plug to remove it. I tried a 3/8" drive but it would not go into the plug. I then tried a 1/4" drive - too small.

Is it a 3/8" square plug in the gas tank or some other size?

Also, could it be a 3/8" size and mine is buggered up a little thereby not allowing the drive to be inserted?

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That is awesome for you and the machine .

Sitting on a wood floor is twice as awesome!

 I bet you will never have a lick of trouble,ever,with proper maintenance.

 We hope you get way more then a few thousand miles a year on it.

  The car has not a trunk mounted,which it GREAT!

They spoil the lines.Use a trunk when your on your 1,000 vacation this summer🙏😁

 

.

.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

It has been some time since I updated any "progress" on the Pierce.

I have made a giant step toward getting the car ready for starting but I do not want to post about it yet.

Once everything is reassembled, etc. I will give a detailed update with pictures.

 

Joe

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So, I was able to take a few more steps forward over the weekend.

When I have completed this phase of the process I will have a complete update along with pictures. 

It won't be very soon as progress is slow due to my lack of time.

I think EVERYONE will be surprised when I do that. I know I was.

 

 

Question for Ed:

Could you please show me your set-up for the Evapo-Rust process and try to explain what I would need to perform it. 

I have the water heater, Evapo-Rust, some 5/8" hose...

I need to know what adapters I need to connect the hoses to the engine, etc

Also, do/did you run 100% Evapo-Rust or do you dilute it (50/50??)

Thanks,

Joe

 

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