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Fuel gauge issue 1940 Special


Robby120113

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On my ‘38 I found the spiral resistor wiring had failed so the gauge was giving false readings and flicking violently at a certain level. After removing the gauge, was able to make one out of two from a ‘37 unit and now have a reliable gauge back in there. Cleaned the tank out at the same time, so double bonus. You may be able to repair the old one with some care or locate a second hand unit off the forum.

good luck

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀

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Please give us a more detailed description of the failure. For example: the gauge reads correctly when the tank is between 1/4 and empty. When over 1/4 full the gauge reads xxxx (full or empty).  1930's GM gauges read full when the tank sender wire is open and empty when the tank sender wire is shorted to ground. A full description will tell us what is happening electrically.

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Sounds like a sending unit problem simply because it works correctly from 1/4 to Empty. The resistor is failing or the float arm is damaged somehow. I don't know for certain but I believe the sending unit is the same as the '41, and they're commonly available. The Buick suppliers sell them for $75 but Summit Racing sells the exact same one for about $35 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-b1-s). I'll wager that's your problem.

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1 hour ago, Robby120113 said:

It is indeed not going further up then 1/4. To replace the fuel sender does the fueltank have to be removed?

thanks for the tips

 

Yes, you have to remove the tank to replace the sender.  Here's how I did it on my '41.  Not too difficult. (Click on arrow in upper right hand corner.)

 

 

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1 hour ago, Robby120113 said:

Then i have to make time and motivation to take the fuel tank out. Thanks all

 

The only thing holding the tank in is 2 steel straps. One or two nuts on each strap and it falls out, especially with help from the weight of 15 or 20 gallons of gas.

 

Only kidding. Empty the tank first. 

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13 hours ago, Robby120113 said:

Then i have to make time and motivation to take the fuel tank out. Thanks all

On my 1940 Super coupe there was an interesting circular pattern stamped in the trunk floor right above the circle of bolts needing  to be removed to take the sending unit out of the tank. Used a hole saw to remove trunk metal and made a circular access panel for servicing sender and wire when and if needed, rather than having to deal with weight and bulk of tank removal. Covered with trunk matt. Adjust centering drill bit on hole saw to just barely enuff sticking out. Hole in trunk metal yes, hole in top of tank, no! Good luck! Run drill in reverse when using holesaw in sheet metal.

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)
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