garnetkid Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Last evening (Thurs) we headed into town to a 6pm gathering of car guys/gals at the local DQ. A few hundred yards before we got to parking lot the car started to buck and then not run. Good thing it was a downhill gentle slope into the parking lot as I coasted into the area and had to push it into a parking spot. Spent an hour or so visiting and then an hour or so trying to solve the no start problem. The battery was good but couldn't get lights or horn or get the S/G to rotate. Figured something may be wrong with the ignition switch so fiddled with that for awhile. Finally got the S/G to work and it turned over well but would not fire. Not a fuel problem. Ended up calling my friendly BCAA for a ride home. Took them 2 1/2 hours to arrive!!!!!!! Got home at 10:45 . Any ideas of what to look at are welcome. Did check the Dist and point and it was rotating. The coil had spark but a little on the weak side. That is the second time in 40 years it has had to come home on a deck. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Leon: Sorry for your "ride of shame". I have had 3 so far with my cars. 2 with my 1925 over 9 years. With as much experience we have had with our cars one would think we could diagnose and repair anything. The first trip for my 1925 was when the clutch went out and this last time the water pump seized and took out the timing gear. I hope it is a simple fix for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 14 hours ago, garnetkid said: Any ideas of what to look at are welcome. Not a fuel problem. I suggest you charge the battery to get good rotation from the S/G, clean the ignition contacts, & verify you have good power to the points & coil, & check the spark at a plug too. Good luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valk Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 If fuel and spark are there, maybe air restriction somewhere? At least you had a Dairy Queen nearby, I love their blizzards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 Leon You are a lucky man to have a car that can break down on the road. All of mine seem to be stuck in the shop and a looong way from breaking down on the road! 😒 I'm sure it isn't anything serious. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted June 28, 2020 Author Share Posted June 28, 2020 Just a little update... Got the car running, appears problem is with the ignition switch. I am in the process of removing the switch to to have a closer look. I do have some spare switch parts and hope I don't run into problems with that as I know they are hard to come by. I recall a previous post awhile ago that detailed the restoration of one, so a search for that is my next step. Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 Here you go if you haven't already found it ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted June 29, 2020 Author Share Posted June 29, 2020 Thanks Brad, I am sure that is going to come in handy. Hope I don't need to go that far. This site always amazes me at the talent there is and that they are willing to share it. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 If I am understanding the electrical system correctly the starter/generator is on a separate circuit from the lights and horn. I think that would explain how the starter motor could operate and at the same time there are no lights. If I have that wrong, I hope someone will set me straight and explain. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 If you have a glass faced ign/light switch then Bobs Automobilia has some parts and does offer a rebuild service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carmover Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 If it turns out to be your switch Bob's has all of the parts and does a perfect rebuild of your switch however the only parts you can buy to rebuild it yourself are whats in their catalog.When I decided to rebuild mine I found out that someone had modified the housing and used parts other than original so even though I had bought all of the parts from Bob's that he was willing to sell I had to have them rebuild it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 How about these modifications! I had to build mine for the Master from several parts donners. Completely rebuilt switch with new case and switch levers and home made dust boot ready to install. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 OK just another update and to thanks for the suggestions for looking for a fix. I removed the switch as the relay looked to have overheated and because I had anther switch in parts that looked to have a better backing plate and relay I decided to clean it up and install it..Tested the relay first and the points opened and closed as I thought they should, so thought it would work. The s/g works as it should and the car starts and runs fine. Just the the lighting systems don't work. The horn works because it's now on the #1 terminal (hot one) where it was supposed to be to begin with. So it is back to rethinking the relay and to that end I have been in contact with Hugh for some very good information on modern modifications. I also found that the spare switch body is in excellent shape, at least better that the one I have been using. Just have to carefully remove the trim ring without breaking it!! some pictures of the spare backing plate/relay and the collection of spare parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted July 3, 2020 Share Posted July 3, 2020 Leon, Good that you have it all apart. The housing looks decent, but I would start with a new one. Your call as these are not cheap. These are the parts and what Bob's sells. Notice the subtle differences in the contact spiders and the stop plates. Also the insulators have to go in the right place as well. If you did a good job documenting disassembly, they are not too difficult to reinstall. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Leon: I see one of your contacts has been replaced on the Micarta insulating plate. That seems to be the bad spot on these switches. That side is the high current ignition side. Burnt and charred contact. Turned replacement pins to reset onto Micarta plate. After glued and set I filled the worn depressed with epoxy. So far after 8 years the switch works fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Does anyone sell new brass inserts/contacts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 I had to make them on my lathe as they are really like brass rivets that are staked to the contact terminals. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 3 hours ago, dibarlaw said: I had to make them on my lathe as they are really like brass rivets that are staked to the contact terminals. want to make a few more? 🤷🏼♂️😳😂😂😂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 The issue is that one has to fit them to the micarta back. The ones I made had to be fitted to the particular plate. I heated and pressed the entire plate to get it flat. I do not see me getting time to do them any time soon. I have plenty of work under way at the time. Making a new fan hub insert with sealed bearings for my 1925 Master. Plus the machining of a new water pump shaft, bearings and a new impellor. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 42 minutes ago, dibarlaw said: The issue is that one has to fit them to the micarta back. The ones I made had to be fitted to the particular plate. I heated and pressed the entire plate to get it flat. I do not see me getting time to do them any time soon. I have plenty of work under way at the time. Making a new fan hub insert with sealed bearings for my 1925 Master. Plus the machining of a new water pump shaft, bearings and a new impellor. I can appreciate that! If you ever do please keep me in mind, you aren’t that far from me! I’d love to put a sealed bearing into my fan hub, but I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to that! Would be nice to no longer have oil blowing back into the engine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I made mine from brass rivets. I chucked it in the drill press and sanded it to the right size. The rivet heads are a larger diameter than the body so that helps. I made the part that goes through the micarta the same size as the hole in the screw lug on the back. I soldered the the screw lug to the contact on the back sife of the micarta. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyfamily Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Fred Rawling said: I made mine from brass rivets. I chucked it in the drill press and sanded it to the right size. The rivet heads are a larger diameter than the body so that helps. I made the part that goes through the micarta the same size as the hole in the screw lug on the back. I soldered the the screw lug to the contact on the back sife of the micarta. great idea, remember what size Brass Rivets you started with? Also I think I understood evetging up till you said you soldered?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted July 10, 2020 Share Posted July 10, 2020 THE BACK OF THE MICARTS HAS A METAL PART FOR THE SCREW CONNETION. IT IS "L" SHAPED. ONE SIDE HAS THE SCREW CONNECTION, THE OTHER HAS A HOLE WHERE THE CONTACT PASSES THROUGH. THEY WERE SEWEDGED OR RIVETED ORIGIONALLY. RATHER THAN HAMMER ON IT, I SOLDERED THE CONTACT TO THE STEEL "L". THE RIVET THAT I USED HAD A HEAD THAT WAS TOO LARGE. I FILED IT TO THE RIGHT SIZE. YOU NEED TO FIND ONE WITH THE CORRECT DIAMETER SHANK. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted July 13, 2020 Author Share Posted July 13, 2020 Well the old girl is back up and running thanks to the suggestions from this group and in particular Hugh. Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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