Brooklyn Beer

1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS

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I have a picture of all of the components of a drt08-209S .  ( from the 1928-1933 master parts book)   I will be away until Monday eve.      I will post  a picture..   I have never seen any complete rebuild kits for DRT 08.

I'm sure Broker len would love to get ahold of one.

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26 minutes ago, 31plymouth said:

I have a picture of all of the components of a drt08-209S .  ( from the 1928-1933 master parts book)   I will be away until Monday eve.      I will post  a picture..   I have never seen any complete rebuild kits for DRT 08.

I'm sure Broker len would love to get ahold of one.

So would I.

 

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I am going off the papers he sent me of the break down of the DRT-08 from that time which look like they came from a service bulletin.  Just that I did not take the carb apart before it was sent out for a rebuild.  I have found two possible problem area's which i mention one being the low idle tube not soldered into the screw OR the cast housing.  I am not sure what it is supposed to be soldered too but it says you have to have an airtight seal to the cast housing which tells me it could suck extra fuel past it.  Problem I am having is too much gas getting past the needle valve which mine is new and looks good with a new float. So it either moving up past the choke tube or my low idle tube as far as I can tell. In the parts list it shows the tube and screw being one and it says soldered so my conclusion is to the screw. Can someone confirm that.  The jet is the correct size. But when motor is turning over and when running it is pulling way to much fuel even when regulated down to 2.5 pounds.

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Looks more like  43- 43s  well jet which is listed as one leaner then standard . Measure orifice , make sure it was not drilled out . Should be number drill 56  according to parts list .

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1 minute ago, ArticiferTom said:

Looks more like  43- 43s  well jet which is listed as one leaner then standard . Measure orifice , make sure it was not drilled out . Should be number drill 56  according to parts list .

 

What is drill 56 ?

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I have not put anything back together yet till I get some guidance on a couple things namely the idle tube.  That gets soldered to the screw correct?  And how (sealer type) do I make it an air tight seal within the cast body?  After that the choke venturi was not going all the way down to seat with choke spring attached.  Weak spring ?  Should the choke venturi seat all the way to the bottom ? 

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I take it to be drill bite rod size , from the  index's like letter and fractional  . Conversion you can look up but all sizes on measuring these carbs list number size . The .0485 is listed as standard size so 56 must be little smaller (leaner ) .

Edited by ArticiferTom
spellin (see edit history)

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2 hours ago, 31plymouth said:

I have a picture of all of the components of a drt08-209S .  ( from the 1928-1933 master parts book)   I will be away until Monday eve.      I will post  a picture..   I have never seen any complete rebuild kits for DRT 08.

I'm sure Broker len would love to get ahold of one.

 

What would be your bill-of-material for a complete kit?

 

What would you pay for it?

 

How many are you willing to buy?

 

Carter produced 48 DIFFERENT DRT-08 carbs. BEST CASE would be maybe 15 different kits.

 

We produce 2 different "clean-out kits" that between the two, service all 48. We sell an average of 2 per year of 1, and 5 per year of the other.

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)

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I am not looking at buying another kit from what I was told was a complete kit.  All I have is an orange card with "Classic Carburetor Kit written on with number 2052.  I am more concerned about getting this one working and being I was not the one who rebuilt it, I don't know what is working or not.  I gave a run down of my observations as I dismantled it. Lots of new parts. Was a very experienced person who did the rebuild who came highly recommended. 

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i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the 

# 11   118 on it. the orig. one had # 129  the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running.  it came with the screw fitting already  soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads.  mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to check positive seal. i have heard of the seat its self some times not sealing in carb body threads. make sure float isn't binding (free floating) also 11/16 inch to bowl lip or less.don't know what to say about the choke mine seemed to travel up and down compleatly   you sure don't want the choke  not opening all the way. may be its binding on stand pipe or fork is bent.double check intake manifold.pull plug wire off and have someone crank starter hold had over carb throat should be pretty strong pull on hand. jetting is related to fine tuning not a flooding  problem i would think. 

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I have a mini torch coming to solder the tube in and am going to see about getting a little more tension on the choke spring and getting the choke venturi to seat all the way down.  I cannot find anything about sizing the jet with proper drill bit size. If anyone has a spare jet around and can size it with a drill bit I would appreciate it so I can ensure mine was not drilled out.

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The number size 56  converts to .0465  . The one leaner is list as .0485 between 56 and 55 wire number size . 0  to 60 wire gauge bites usually in index then 61 to 80 in jeweler sets .

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Maybe you could walk into a Fastenal store with your jet and ask if you could borrow a number 56 drill bit.

You break you buy?

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Broke down and bought a cheap set of numbered bits off amazon with some amazon bucks I had.  Since I will only be using them as gauges they should be good.  Be here tomorrow.

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So outside the jet size, needle valve and float, where else could too much fuel be getting in?  I have an ice storm day off. Sunday was 81 and I had the 65 out for the first time this year.  Go figure TX

20200202_132655.jpg

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Just found this info on flow of these carbs . Wish had better copy ! Anyone ! Did you have this Brooklyn Beer ?

818263727_carbmetering.thumb.jpg.57b9d26152733954968090e93ad1078f.jpg

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No, did not have this.  Being I disconnected the the accel pump it has to be needle valve or the idle tube or too big a jet from what I can see.  .  What I do not know is what is supposed to behind the ball check if anything

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The ball check is part of accell circuit keeping fuel in pump to force out jet and extra back to carb . I believe in is all inclusive ball , spring and holder . That screwed in to core .

  See on pic I send you , the main needle and jet , gets fuel from very bottom of core and up through along needle . Thats what Iam seeing anyway .

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well the 56 size drill bit won't fit in the well jet.  The size 60 won't either.  The multijet is right at a 48.  I am going to remove that screw again for the ball check but I am not seeing anything behind it.  Let me remove off the old carb and see what is back there

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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Here is a picture of what I found behind the pump jet plug.  The small one is from the drt-08 and the larger one is off the RJH. Big difference between the two.  Am I missing something that should be behind the DRT -08 pump jet ?

20200205_174742.jpg

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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Here are the two needle and seat assemblies.  On the left is the one that came with the drt-08 with rubber tip and the other is what came out of the RJH.  I am liking the RJH type better as the seat for the needle just looks like it makes better contact. Bigger base for the float to rest on.  Blowing through both each seems to be a positive stop.  Opinions?

20200205_175518.jpg

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