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JamesLay

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  1. broker-len i had a machinest friend turn the seal surface on the e-brake drum it was pretty ruff. he also cleaned up the brake band surface for me. i then took the drum to the bearing store with the old seal. he measured the O.D.of the orig. seal and the diameter of the newly turned journal on the brake drum and came up with a good fit of a modern seal. dennis cutsall re lined my e-brake clamp it was full of grease. good luck bob.
  2. i thought coupes and convertable coupes had the all steel lids. only roadsters had the wood framed lids. i didnt know they would inner change.
  3. hi, i made my frame also,you should go ahead and make a frame. even if youfind a lid it will likely need new wood. when you get the frame done. you will find a way to skin it.i spent more time repairing a junk lid than it would have taken to make my own skin or have a hot rod shop skin your frame. the frame is the hard part.
  4. i have both PA and PB blocks they both have the same square hole round hole set up. i think the pump with the D shaped hole must be later pumps (PB) i installed the backing plate with the D shaped hole i had been running the plate with out the D shaped hole.and see if there is any notable difference in my engine cooling habits.i wont be running the car for awhile weather is still pretty bad here 8 inches of snow today.
  5. the point i am trying to make here is that there are two different backing plates on PA PB water pumps. not just mine but also '' 31 PLY'' and i have seen mutiple PA PB water pumps with both types of backing plates.PA PB water pump is olny for those two years. the 6 cylinder water pump has nothing to do with the 4 cyl cars.i just mentioned it to try to under stand by pass systems. i am thinking one of the backing plates is an inprovement but witch one.
  6. i already e-mailed tech advisor bob mcmulkin he didnt know. he just said either one will work and i all ready know that. he did say that it would not have any thing to do with a heater or not.
  7. what do you think about the possibility of the difference being if your car would have a heater or not . the pump in the pictures with out the D shaped hole has the heater nipple on the inlet neck. the pump with the D shaped hole does not have heater hose nipple. the heater does by pass radiator.
  8. Hi, i have both pumps on the bench now so i am going to run the the by pass backing plate . i had the one with out bypass on the car and drove it 400 miles last summer. on the real hot days the temp gauge would creep up when sitting still. and it seemed to float around between 160 and 180 degrees it has a160 thermostat.i have heard the term " HOT SPOTS" if you dont have bypass. the six cylinder water pumps claim it fit from like 34-54 and i notice they have external bypass nipple port.
  9. no, i have seen the D shaped hole on one for sale on ebay in the past. these are not my water pumps. my backing plate is not very rusty and the hole is very defined. also if you look at the 1933 plymouth water pump it has the D shaped hole. I'am thinking if to much water bypasses not enough is going to the radiator to cool ,there for the pump with out the D shaped hole would be sending more water to the radiator. i saw those part numbers like you stated are the same. i dont get it thats why i made this post. i would like to know what backing plate to run. i gess i could try both and see witc
  10. I have 2 PA water pumps ,could some one explain to me why they have different holes in the backing plate.and witch backing plate would be the best to use. pumps are identical except for bypass (D shaped hole). the one with out the D shaped hole was on a PB motor the other came off a PA motor. the holes in both blocks are identical.
  11. i put 400 pretty good miles on my roadster last summer .i think i got around 12 or 13 miles to the gallon. i ran it up to 57 mph . i can idle it down to like 300 rpm.my tail pipe is a little sootier than i would like but it did not foul plugs. i did get the vacuum control figuered out. maybe that helped . it has orig. correct jetting per manual for the DRT-08 209-S and my carb has the 209-S brass ID tag. maybe this is the answer .probably has more horse power and good gas milage. this is not my engine. just found the pic on line.
  12. here are my two idle tubes,the bottom one is hard to read but looks like 112S. it has been repaired. the upper one is nos carter. it is clearly marked 11 118S. its been along time but i am pretty sure i put the 120S tube that the book calls for in my carb.the repaired one is the one that i broke trying to remove it. it was in my carb. that had a tag marked 209S.i think 209S must apply to vacuum ported carb. being that 1930 did not have vac. spark control and 1932 went to carterBB1. so i am assuming my carb was tagged correctly.i dont know how to measure holes for you guys.neither one of th
  13. make sure your spark plugs are clean dry and gaped right. before tuning carb. also check points for gap and pitting.new plugs would elimnate any dought.dist.cap, rotor, wires?
  14. my idle jet tube has the smaller hole about 3/8 inch from threaded screw / plug.
  15. i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the # 11 118 on it. the orig. one had # 129 the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running. it came with the screw fitting already soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads. mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to chec
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