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About JamesLay

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  1. make sure your spark plugs are clean dry and gaped right. before tuning carb. also check points for gap and pitting.new plugs would elimnate any dought.dist.cap, rotor, wires?
  2. my idle jet tube has the smaller hole about 3/8 inch from threaded screw / plug.
  3. i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the # 11 118 on it. the orig. one had # 129 the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running. it came with the screw fitting already soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads. mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to check positive seal. i have heard of the seat its self some times not sealing in carb body threads. make sure float isn't binding (free floating) also 11/16 inch to bowl lip or less.don't know what to say about the choke mine seemed to travel up and down compleatly you sure don't want the choke not opening all the way. may be its binding on stand pipe or fork is bent.double check intake manifold.pull plug wire off and have someone crank starter hold had over carb throat should be pretty strong pull on hand. jetting is related to fine tuning not a flooding problem i would think.
  4. my idle mixture screw is like only 3/4 turn from close or less.there is a acc. pump screw. it also does not need to be opened more than one turn or even leave it closed until you get it running . its the small screw just below acc. pump body.idle mix screw is the big brass one.also remember you will only have vacuum when throttle plate is closed.(very low idel} you cant use remote starter.it will only turn start motor.bendex is ingaged manually by foot control.to check timing remove pipe plug on cyl. head at rear cly drop straight coat hanger wire 10- 12 inch long down hole.rotate engine over by fan blade with spark plugs out until wire is pushed up to top dead center remove distributor cap roator should be pointing at number one cyl. wire post.if not loosen clamp bolt and rotate. a mark on dist. housing be for you remove dist. cap will help locate rotor contact . also I.D. tag on dist.should be facing you.after that in all in order with engine running you can tweek the timming with vacuum gauge to peak vacuum or (sweet spot).wile your plugs are out clean them with wire brush and solvent or replace them . check points .020.remember fuel filter . that tank is probaly filthy.
  5. compression # is not that important,all cyl. should be equal 70 lbs.or more would be good.if you have a problem with a valve you will knowit .if avalve is stuck or leaking you could tell this buy just sticking your finger in the spark plug holes and turning over engine. of corse a very small leak would need gauge to detect.make sure you got the manifolds sealing .i don't know fuel pump presser i think there pretty low like 7 lbs. or so. i have seen people turn the intake manifold around and mount brand new down draft one barrel carb. and fabracate accelerator linkage . my orig. carb works pretty good but it took quite abit of effort and i still have a pretty black tail pipe.
  6. my car did this until I worked on carb.i replaced float and lowered float level.(float bowl to full or nedle not seating completly.there is something to the vacuum leak.( leaking valves)up draft carbs are going to do this if they are over cranked. fuel has no where to go but on the ground.you should have a pretty strong suction with hand over carb throat while cranking.but yes i would check compression first all four cyl should be equal.
  7. your float needle is not seating or your float is leaking. when i put a carb together i always blow in to inlet with carb inverted, lift up and then let float rest buy its own weight on the needle.look close at the needle and seat .the needle i got is metal not rubber tipped. its kind or hard to tell if a float is leaking.it olny takes a very little bit of gas leaking into it to make it to heavy.make sure float action is free.some times you can shake the float in your hand and hear the fuel in there.or put it in a cup of water and watch for bubbles.you can also weigh them if you know the weight or maybe have another float to compare weights.as to the rebuilding of these carbs the only seal is the bowl gasket.the accelerator pump has a leather seal that you can make from an old work glove.the idle curcit tube can be a problem on these carbs (pluging up) they are pretty hard to replace.also check your throttle plate shaft .fittmet (throttle shaft movement) to much wear will afect your idle and ported vacuum suppl y. the first thing i should have said is to check fuel supply your pump should have a sedement bowl with a screen.tiny particules can still get into float bowl . put a trans parent filter in line and see what you get. one tiny grain will mess with your needle and seat.
  8. looks good. my muffler shop guy could not make the flat flare like that .
  9. the muffler shop expaned the pipe to fit the cast flange , the clamping bolton the casting should hold the pipe tight. the small flare on pipe is a added measure to keep pipe from blowing out.also a positive seal.
  10. about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket.
  11. the carb has 1/8 inch pipe tread .you can get the brass fitting from a NAPA store. 1/8 inch pipe male to 3/16 female flare fitting. most orignial style vacuum controls have the 3/16 flare fitting.
  12. maybe you could fabracate them from hack saw blades or steel banding material .I have seen two different styles of clip on stock hub caps i think this style must be later production .after market caps do not have spun over brass. as keiser 31 told me once.after market caps you can see plymouth logo stamped in from back side. on the earlier cap the clips where part of hub cap ( not removeable) maybe 30-31?
  13. un bolt whole bracket from cross member from underside. remove two nuts under water pump. put wood 2x4 blocks on oil pan flanges and a long one across clearing oil pan maybe screw boards together to stablize. you should be able to raise up enough to remove. but i did do mine when i had the motor out and front end off.then and now auto parts did my mounts for 50 or 75 dollars apiece cant remember for sure . fan and belt need to come off also.
  14. brooklyn beer, you can give me a phone call tonight between 6-8 mountain . i think this might take more words than i would like to type. 605-343-3004 james
  15. okay, there are a couple of things going on with timing adjustment.the long screw going through dist. bracket (horizontal) is what you loosen to turn the dist inside the bracket.the screw that is in the slot that screws into the engine should be shoulder type screw.it should not tighten the dist bracket to timing cover of engine. that is your vac control movement.if your vac control is not connected you shouldn't need to do any thing with it for now.dist and bracket move together back and forth about 1/2 inch with in slot every time you accelerate from idle. ( with a working vac control) look up how to static time a engine and that should get you pretty close. or get a vacuum gauge on the manifold port and adjust to maximum vacuum.that is if you actually any vacuum.hey make sure your dist isn't one of those older mechanical types it may have been changed along with the carb. (delco 629 H is the only one that will work with your dist mounting bracket.that is what made me think your dist was correct because the mounting hardware looks right. there was a guy selling new repo choke and throttle cables in plymouth club bulletin . I brazed new cable wire to my orig. knobs and slid new cable housing on. lack of a dist vacuum control wont cause it to run poorly but a dist with out the centrifugal weights and springs working properly would not let timing advance at all.the 29 plymouth was just cable operated with a different mounting bracket you had to advance it your self as you drove. the PB cars where the same as PA but improved bracket and vacuum control and mounting design and dist housing is cut a little differently to accommodate new bracket design. vac control is only accuated when throttle plate is closed.to retard timing with foot off accellerator.