Brooklyn Beer

1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS

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Rand Broadstreet came through on the old stock carb and Bob Clark did the rebuild.  Just happened to get lucky this one was available.  It really is a work of art and can't wait too hear the old girl fire up and see what she will do. Comparing to the wrong carb the differences are night and day.

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about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge  of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit  i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface  manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket.

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Think I will buy a piece of 1 1/2 ID straight pipe and practice at work the next time I am brazing AC lines.  Thanks for the idea. I wonder if i can make the flange from copper or a brazing bead ?

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the muffler shop expaned the pipe to fit the cast flange , the clamping bolton the casting should hold the pipe tight. the small flare on pipe is a added measure to keep pipe from blowing out.also a positive seal.

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8 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Got it.  So bring lower clamp with me as it is larger then 1 1/2 ".

Hows do these look ?  Shoot me a pm with address .

402280118_exhausttip.thumb.jpg.be8b5e6cf3835ce98ff947cdc7703327.jpg

 

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Thank You!  I am thinking I can make the straight one work with a coupling     Let me know what i owe you.

 

Chris Richard

8299 Hutcheson Hill Road

Springtown, TX, 76082

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Thanks , me and buddy did them today . First time was two year ago for mine . We used an old crusty auction machine he been storing . Your shop probably has a machine capable . But operator who doesn't know how . Wish I remembered my pic phone to show . We had to do two practice ones . You have to swag out to 1-1/2" id , the use pointed cone to start lip . This being part taking a little practice . Then flip cone over to flat side and finish ,without splitting or over rolling .

  Then added a kick to match what was on my engine . That angle get tube heading straight down to hole in gravel pan .

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I just need to whack off about 10 inches max on the repair as I have the length, just no flange.  Unless you think the bend would be better?  What say you?

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Well after a set back thanks to the flu I grabbed a couple parts from the garage to work on inside. I re-torqued the manifold bolts as well to be sure after they now sat for a week.  Will do again after she runs up to temp which will hopefully be very soon this weekend. So today I brought in the air cleaner to see about getting it back to where it should be to work with the DRT-08. It seems they had put in 3 different shims inside it to fit the wrong carb throat intake and tac welded it. These shims all have a number 64 stamped in them and look like some over the counter part.  Must have been in a long time. Love undoing wrong crap. The more I repair the "make do" repairs from decades past on the fuel supply side the more things I see that could be causing the lack of power issue I felt on hills.  Thanks to Tom and his exhaust piece maybe I can get her back together for our near 70 degree Sunday coming up !

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Well here we are.  Everything ready to go once I get the exhaust tied back up.  Leaving vacuum advance off for now. Made a new hand throttle cable as well. After things get running well I start to replace the fuel lines back to steel.  What size are they so I can get a roll of tubing ?

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They are 1/4" from tank to front in steel . Then change to copper before going in engine bay . At least thats what was on mine . I used two pieces of brake line to get to front and changed to copper by wheel well . You may want to check you BOI to see if fuel pump should be tuned on angle . Would effect running ,just looks .

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OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together.  Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there.  It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out.  Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it.  DRT-08

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Did you get the orange paper gauge he sends from rebuid gasket kit . Should be 11/16" from casting lip to float in inverted position . Can send pic if you do not have .

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12 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together.  Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there.  It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out.  Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it.  DRT-08

This?

post-37352-143142351047.jpg

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Stupid question here. They say invert carb to adjust.  So I am removing the brass bowl and flipping carb upside down ?

 

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1 hour ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

Stupid question here. They say invert carb to adjust.  So I am removing the brass bowl and flipping carb upside down ?

 

Yep. As ArticiferTom says.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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OK, did as instructed and float was about 3/8th out.  Supposed to be 11/16 and was about an inch. So bent the little brass tab and lowered (raised) the float till it was 11/16th off the machined (gasket ridge) area.  reinstalled and it is still dripping gas at about 1 drip per second out the air inlet opening. Have not got it running but it will fire up and stumble for a few seconds before flooding out? Fuel pump is standard mechanical that was working fine with the previous carb I had on there. The RJH model. It is dripping just when turning over and not at RPM and worse when it fires over.  Carb was totally rebuilt by Bob Clark.

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your float needle is not seating  or your float is leaking. when i put a carb together i always blow in to inlet with carb inverted, lift up and then let float rest buy its own weight on the needle.look close at the needle and seat .the needle i got  is metal not rubber tipped. its kind or hard to tell if a float is leaking.it olny takes a very little bit of gas leaking into it to make it to heavy.make sure float action is free.some times you can shake the float in your hand and hear the fuel in there.or put it in a cup of water and watch for bubbles.you can also weigh them if you know the weight or maybe have another float to compare weights.as to the rebuilding of these carbs the only seal is the bowl gasket.the accelerator pump has a leather seal that you can make from an old work glove.the idle curcit tube can be a problem on these carbs (pluging up) they are pretty hard to replace.also check your throttle plate shaft .fittmet (throttle shaft movement) to much wear will afect your idle and ported vacuum suppl y. the first thing i should have said is to check fuel supply your pump should have a sedement bowl with a screen.tiny particules  can still get into float bowl . put a trans parent filter in line and see what you get. one tiny grain will mess with your needle and seat.

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