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1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS


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i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the 

# 11   118 on it. the orig. one had # 129  the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running.  it came with the screw fitting already  soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads.  mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to check positive seal. i have heard of the seat its self some times not sealing in carb body threads. make sure float isn't binding (free floating) also 11/16 inch to bowl lip or less.don't know what to say about the choke mine seemed to travel up and down compleatly   you sure don't want the choke  not opening all the way. may be its binding on stand pipe or fork is bent.double check intake manifold.pull plug wire off and have someone crank starter hold had over carb throat should be pretty strong pull on hand. jetting is related to fine tuning not a flooding  problem i would think. 

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I have a mini torch coming to solder the tube in and am going to see about getting a little more tension on the choke spring and getting the choke venturi to seat all the way down.  I cannot find anything about sizing the jet with proper drill bit size. If anyone has a spare jet around and can size it with a drill bit I would appreciate it so I can ensure mine was not drilled out.

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The number size 56  converts to .0465  . The one leaner is list as .0485 between 56 and 55 wire number size . 0  to 60 wire gauge bites usually in index then 61 to 80 in jeweler sets .

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Maybe you could walk into a Fastenal store with your jet and ask if you could borrow a number 56 drill bit.

You break you buy?

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Broke down and bought a cheap set of numbered bits off amazon with some amazon bucks I had.  Since I will only be using them as gauges they should be good.  Be here tomorrow.

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So outside the jet size, needle valve and float, where else could too much fuel be getting in?  I have an ice storm day off. Sunday was 81 and I had the 65 out for the first time this year.  Go figure TX

20200202_132655.jpg

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No, did not have this.  Being I disconnected the the accel pump it has to be needle valve or the idle tube or too big a jet from what I can see.  .  What I do not know is what is supposed to behind the ball check if anything

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The ball check is part of accell circuit keeping fuel in pump to force out jet and extra back to carb . I believe in is all inclusive ball , spring and holder . That screwed in to core .

  See on pic I send you , the main needle and jet , gets fuel from very bottom of core and up through along needle . Thats what Iam seeing anyway .

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well the 56 size drill bit won't fit in the well jet.  The size 60 won't either.  The multijet is right at a 48.  I am going to remove that screw again for the ball check but I am not seeing anything behind it.  Let me remove off the old carb and see what is back there

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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Here is a picture of what I found behind the pump jet plug.  The small one is from the drt-08 and the larger one is off the RJH. Big difference between the two.  Am I missing something that should be behind the DRT -08 pump jet ?

20200205_174742.jpg

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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Here are the two needle and seat assemblies.  On the left is the one that came with the drt-08 with rubber tip and the other is what came out of the RJH.  I am liking the RJH type better as the seat for the needle just looks like it makes better contact. Bigger base for the float to rest on.  Blowing through both each seems to be a positive stop.  Opinions?

20200205_175518.jpg

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well neither of the ball checks have a spring in them.  They rattle.  Guess they are vac operated ?  My stupid 49 Buick had a vac operated ball bearing switch to disconnect the circuit from the accelerator pedal starter switch. It was on the carb and when she fired over the vac was supposed to open the contacts by sucking the ball bearing up.  Needless to say it didn't work at times and is now run with just a bump switch under the dash.  Always hanging up.

 

But i think I found a major issue.  The float BTW was a new float.  I am putting the one off the RJH carb on it.

 

 

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Well today was the day to put all that problem solving back on the car and was rewarded with no gas dripping out as that was the major problem. Bad float. But also it would not start. Brought regulator up 4 psi and it would not start where it had been at 1/2 choke.  So yanked choke all the way out and it fired right up BUT when decreasing it would start to pop pop pop and then die.  Leaning out. I now know the wet jet does play a critical roll as it is way undersized (#60 rod won't even go through it) when I checked it while the muli-jet is right on size.  Stupid me for thinking it came with it so it must be right. So will change out the well jet that came with it and put on the one that is a size 56 from the old one.  So one issue fixed and on to the next.  Being I had never handled a float before I did not know the proper weight.  When I removed the old float right away I knew the "new" one was loaded with old dried up gas with a little new gas sloshing around from this weeks prior install. 

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10 hours ago, JamesLay said:

make sure your spark plugs are clean dry and gaped right. before tuning carb. also check points for gap and pitting.new plugs would elimnate any dought.dist.cap, rotor, wires?

did so.

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Well yesterday we continued on with trying to work out the carb issue by installing one of the called for sized jets. It happened to be the leaner one. Again the car won't run unless the choke is on only this time 1/3 way so we are making headway. I ordered the next size up bit for what is supposed to be the the non lean size and will drill out the way small one I replaced to the next size up.  BUT before I do that I am going to put the air cleaner back on and see if that has anything to do with allowing the correct amount of air in or balancing it.

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Good to hear .  Did you ever test for leak at top of tube , where it contacts casting ?

  i pulled mine yesterday and it has proper 43-61s jet and no leak at top . All passages are clean . Iam lost for now , also . 

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No, have not checked for a leak there yet. Going to upsize the jet somewhere a hair above the .0485 size as that reamer alone was 36 bucks.  jeeze.  But the drill bit in MM that is .0010 bigger is 5 bucks.  So going with this option. Going to reinstall the air cleaner first to see if that restriction in air flow changes things.  Seems like I am going in the right direction. It will run good at high rpm and 1/3 choke now but lower the rpm and choke and it starts to pop.  Had it idle at least at 1/3 choke and double idle speed.  Anyone else have an opinion?

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The idle tube must be soldered leak-free to the plug; and sealed to the casting at both the top and the bottom. Otherwise, no idle is possible without choke, even if the well jet is removed, and just the open passage is left.

 

Jon.

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OK Jon and thank you. Just what I needed to hear.  I will do so today sometime before doing anything else. What sealer is recommended for the idle tube?  And before soldering it so I am sure the correct end is soldered in Can you tell if the single hole goes up top or close to the screw?

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2 hours ago, carbking said:

The idle tube must be soldered leak-free to the plug; and sealed to the casting at both the top and the bottom. Otherwise, no idle is possible without choke, even if the well jet is removed, and just the open passage is left.

 

Jon.

Thanks Jon for you input . My question when you say sealed top and bottom to casting . Top I understand ,  bottom not . Does it mean where tube goes thought casting to well or tube's seat/ plug sealing very bottom by threads ?

Edited by ArticiferTom
and plug (see edit history)
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The tube is sealed to the plug with solder.

 

The plug has a chamfer which seals to a matching chamfer in the casting. When a NEW or REFORMED idle tube is inserted into the casting, the pressure of the tube on the upper end will effect a seal, and once tightened, the mating chamfers will seal.

 

Jon.

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Jon, I already have my new one installed just not soldered to the screw plug. Will I have an issue now screwing it in after soldering? and what sealant should I use on the top of it before I install the top section of the carb to the lower section?  I am guessing screw in the tube prior to installing the top section ?   I have soldered thousands of copper pipe fittings before and have a mini torch here to do the job.  Just want to make sure which end of the tube goes into the screw plug.

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There should be a small orifice that will be located just above the solder once the tube is soldered to the plug.

 

NO SEALANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have posted many times that whenever one reuses an idle tube in a Carter carburetor, one should gently SLIGHTLY expand the upper end by rolling the point of an icepick in the upper end. This is a trick I was taught by the head of the Carter training school decades ago.

 

The upper casting passage is tapered. The rotation of the tube in the tapered passage will cut a seal. This can be observed in a very slight crimping of the metal at the top of the tube when a used tube is removed.

 

Hopefully, your new tube is the correct one. Carter made dozens of different tubes with different calibrations. Why wasn't it soldered to the plug?

 

What is the identification number of both of you fellows carburetors?

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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Jon mine is a new tube. Mine has that small hole your talking about.  I will check out the tube end. God only knows if it is the right one.  And both halves of the carb should be together when installing the tube? Mine is a DRT-08.  What other number do you need.?  I am about ready to pack it up and send it to you if I can't get this thing figured out. That or light the car on fire and roll it down a hill.

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First - DON'T send it to me; as I am no longer rebuilding. We are so busy with the manufacture of rebuilding kits, we no longer have time to rebuild. We do have a pretty decent inventory of parts and carbs for sale.

 

No offense meant, but saying you have a DRT-08 is about as informative as saying you have a 15 inch tire! How wide, how tall, radial, mud and snow, etc., etc., etc.

 

Carter made 44 different type DRT-08 carburetors. You HAVE to know what you have in able to buy the correct parts. The part number for the tube should be stamped on the plug. Carter NEVER sold the tube or plug separately.

 

Jon

 

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I guess by parts list it should be 11-120s . My replacement has nothing on it .  Chris what is small hole size on yours ?  i believe sheet says tube jet hole is 62 on one and number 65 tube on another . I do not have drill size index . Upper hole is much large may as well tell that also . I am going to get index to check .

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There are two very knowledgeable and HONEST rebuilders of the brass bowl Carter Chevrolet carburetors on the VCCA forums (vccachat.org).

 

One goes by the moniker of junkyard-dog (real name Skip Geear), the other by the moniker of Chipper. Don't know if either may be persuaded to do a non-Chevrolet carb or not, but if you can talk either into doing the carb, it will be done right!

 

Virtually all of the modern parts for the brass bowl carbs are made for Chevrolet, and come from far away. The fact there was no number on Tom's idle tube makes me think this may be the case.

 

The Carter parts did have numbers, as did the Standard Hygrade aftermarket parts in the day.

 

Jon.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am posting this on this topic since so many are following the repair of the DRT-08.  

My spare went through a flood a while back.   Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I can soak this in to remove the rust?

4D2498BC-CE37-4B11-94AE-B1168A7445EE.jpeg

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