Brooklyn Beer

1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS

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Want to thank Rand Broadstreet and Vintage Carburetor  LTD for coming through big time with an excellent  DRT-08 209s at a more then fair price.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

I really did not understand how tough of a carb this is to find until all the fine folks here started steering me in the right direction and away from the wrong carb I have now that needs a total rebuild. My welcome to the world of early Plymouths !  I thought it was going to be a long haul trying to find one as they were such a short lived design and that I would have to settle for a 5 times hand-me-down that would need more then a rebuild. Well what he was able to pull out of the shop and knock the dust off floored me and I just could not pass up this work of art.  getPart?uid=AJ8kt8Fmb1ehXfDpawzosAV8E7g&partId=3&saveAs=DSCN6722.JPG&scope=STANDARD

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)

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So took the opportunity of near 70 degree weather today and finished sorting out the electric. Have dash lights now and tracked down the brake light issue. Both running lights. So now that is working. Had power happening everywhere it was supposed to except the "new" bulb someone had installed they had filed off the contacts to make it fit in the socket. They filed off to much. So I took a new bulb and did the same filing but just a little at a time so the brake side contact was a little longer to fit the little extra wear on that contact. Tail light contact was sticking out where the brake contact was not. Both sides needed filed some to fit in the push and twist socket depth. Victory !

 

I hate old car wiring. Gives me a headache. Did find some dash lights in LED so super bright.  Now to the dome light.  How does that cover pop off?

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I believe it just pulls straight down and off of the base. It has clips inside the hold it on.

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The dome light switch is shot and I see no way to take it apart.  Looks to be one piece contained with the dome insert itself.  Anyone making repo's? Quite an odd switch and dome light unit all in one.

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2 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

The dome light switch is shot and I see no way to take it apart.  Looks to be one piece contained with the dome insert itself.  Anyone making repo's? Quite an odd switch and dome light unit all in one.

Well, it may be like this 1931 Dodge Brothers unit. There are slots on the sides & ends and it probably slides a little to come off of the pins. Worth a try....

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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It is a pull off type cover. The switch itself that is attached to the insert part and contains the socket is shot.  Power to the socket. Good ground. New bulb. No power through the switch at the dome light to the socket and I do not see anyway to take the switch out of the dome light itself.

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I believe the bezel comes away from the metal base. I am trying to find a photo I have of the inner tabs holding it on.

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WD40 thru the cracks and several reps may clean it up enough to work.

I think they just corrode and lose continuity.

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Be very careful with that dome light.  Mine shorted out years ago but  I caught it just in time.  I never tried to fix it . I did not want to chance it happening again.  There is a lot of flammable material (padding, headliner) in that roof area and the chicken wire which could be a nice conductor.

There have been a few posts of various makes of dome light shorting problems.

Just a thought

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7 hours ago, 31plymouth said:

Mine shorted out years ago but  I caught it just in time.

I was thinking that myself.  Just might snip it back and wire nut it.

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By the way.  That chicken wire I referred to was in the roof to act as a radio antenna.  The Plymouth ( and possible other Chrysler products) closed cars had a wire attached to the chicken wire and it ran down the inside passenger side of the cowl behind the interior trim to be attached to a radio.

Edited by 31plymouth
typo (see edit history)
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In case you might want to replace the dome light unit, there are a couple of them on Ebay right now. One of 'em may still light up.

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The great Bob Clark received my new correct carb and is changing out the seals and giving it a tune up.  Question.  What size is the ported vacuum and what would be the correct fitting to work with a 3/16 vac line (double flare)

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the carb has 1/8 inch pipe tread .you can get the brass fitting from a NAPA store. 1/8 inch pipe male to 3/16 female flare fitting. most orignial style vacuum controls have the 3/16 flare fitting.

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Well the rebuilt DRT-08 showed up this evening after a total rebuild from Bob Clark to get things up to snuff. So tomorrow I am going to pull off the manifolds and change that gasket and see about getting the carb installed and the exhaust flange connection fixed.

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Here are a couple comparisons of the old incorrect carb and the new correct carb.  Will be a couple more days till I get it installed as I seem to have contracted the crud.  But I did get the new manifold gasket installed. This was more then shot. I trued and polished up the manifold ports as best as possible and used a skim coat of permatex ultra copper on them before mating to the gasket. Same with the gasket to block. Heard good stuff about it (700 degrees) so lets see how it works. The new gasket though was extra thick and extra crushable with equally good reviews. twice as thick as the one I took off that failed in more places then worked. The lack of any flange on the exhaust pipe though has me bummed. Guess i will just contact a muffler shop to see if they can make me a 1 1/2 inch flanged adapter piece with a swedged end to act like a coupler. Might have to do a "Rube Goldberg" repair with some muffler tape as a temporary fix just to get it running.

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The old gasket was thin junk doing less of a job then more. As much as I try I can't find a short flanged adapter for this repair

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