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Everything posted by JamesLay

  1. i thought coupes and convertable coupes had the all steel lids. only roadsters had the wood framed lids. i didnt know they would inner change.
  2. hi, i made my frame also,you should go ahead and make a frame. even if youfind a lid it will likely need new wood. when you get the frame done. you will find a way to skin it.i spent more time repairing a junk lid than it would have taken to make my own skin or have a hot rod shop skin your frame. the frame is the hard part.
  3. i have both PA and PB blocks they both have the same square hole round hole set up. i think the pump with the D shaped hole must be later pumps (PB) i installed the backing plate with the D shaped hole i had been running the plate with out the D shaped hole.and see if there is any notable difference in my engine cooling habits.i wont be running the car for awhile weather is still pretty bad here 8 inches of snow today.
  4. the point i am trying to make here is that there are two different backing plates on PA PB water pumps. not just mine but also '' 31 PLY'' and i have seen mutiple PA PB water pumps with both types of backing plates.PA PB water pump is olny for those two years. the 6 cylinder water pump has nothing to do with the 4 cyl cars.i just mentioned it to try to under stand by pass systems. i am thinking one of the backing plates is an inprovement but witch one.
  5. i already e-mailed tech advisor bob mcmulkin he didnt know. he just said either one will work and i all ready know that. he did say that it would not have any thing to do with a heater or not.
  6. what do you think about the possibility of the difference being if your car would have a heater or not . the pump in the pictures with out the D shaped hole has the heater nipple on the inlet neck. the pump with the D shaped hole does not have heater hose nipple. the heater does by pass radiator.
  7. Hi, i have both pumps on the bench now so i am going to run the the by pass backing plate . i had the one with out bypass on the car and drove it 400 miles last summer. on the real hot days the temp gauge would creep up when sitting still. and it seemed to float around between 160 and 180 degrees it has a160 thermostat.i have heard the term " HOT SPOTS" if you dont have bypass. the six cylinder water pumps claim it fit from like 34-54 and i notice they have external bypass nipple port.
  8. no, i have seen the D shaped hole on one for sale on ebay in the past. these are not my water pumps. my backing plate is not very rusty and the hole is very defined. also if you look at the 1933 plymouth water pump it has the D shaped hole. I'am thinking if to much water bypasses not enough is going to the radiator to cool ,there for the pump with out the D shaped hole would be sending more water to the radiator. i saw those part numbers like you stated are the same. i dont get it thats why i made this post. i would like to know what backing plate to run. i gess i could try both and see witch one runs cooler.
  9. I have 2 PA water pumps ,could some one explain to me why they have different holes in the backing plate.and witch backing plate would be the best to use. pumps are identical except for bypass (D shaped hole). the one with out the D shaped hole was on a PB motor the other came off a PA motor. the holes in both blocks are identical.
  10. i put 400 pretty good miles on my roadster last summer .i think i got around 12 or 13 miles to the gallon. i ran it up to 57 mph . i can idle it down to like 300 rpm.my tail pipe is a little sootier than i would like but it did not foul plugs. i did get the vacuum control figuered out. maybe that helped . it has orig. correct jetting per manual for the DRT-08 209-S and my carb has the 209-S brass ID tag. maybe this is the answer .probably has more horse power and good gas milage. this is not my engine. just found the pic on line.
  11. here are my two idle tubes,the bottom one is hard to read but looks like 112S. it has been repaired. the upper one is nos carter. it is clearly marked 11 118S. its been along time but i am pretty sure i put the 120S tube that the book calls for in my carb.the repaired one is the one that i broke trying to remove it. it was in my carb. that had a tag marked 209S.i think 209S must apply to vacuum ported carb. being that 1930 did not have vac. spark control and 1932 went to carterBB1. so i am assuming my carb was tagged correctly.i dont know how to measure holes for you guys.neither one of these tubes are the 120S anyway.
  12. make sure your spark plugs are clean dry and gaped right. before tuning carb. also check points for gap and pitting.new plugs would elimnate any dought.dist.cap, rotor, wires?
  13. my idle jet tube has the smaller hole about 3/8 inch from threaded screw / plug.
  14. i replaced that idle tube only because it would not come out to clean. it was pretty hard getting the old tube out and was ruined in the process.a parts supplier sold me a couple. mine had the # 11 118 on it. the orig. one had # 129 the different numbers did not seem to make a noticable difference in its running. it came with the screw fitting already soldered on it. the screw has a taperd seat on it at the bottom of threads. mine was a genuine carter part. i would gess that is not what is flooding your carb. i always blow into the fuel inlet (mouth) raise float up and down to check positive seal. i have heard of the seat its self some times not sealing in carb body threads. make sure float isn't binding (free floating) also 11/16 inch to bowl lip or less.don't know what to say about the choke mine seemed to travel up and down compleatly you sure don't want the choke not opening all the way. may be its binding on stand pipe or fork is bent.double check intake manifold.pull plug wire off and have someone crank starter hold had over carb throat should be pretty strong pull on hand. jetting is related to fine tuning not a flooding problem i would think.
  15. my idle mixture screw is like only 3/4 turn from close or less.there is a acc. pump screw. it also does not need to be opened more than one turn or even leave it closed until you get it running . its the small screw just below acc. pump body.idle mix screw is the big brass one.also remember you will only have vacuum when throttle plate is closed.(very low idel} you cant use remote starter.it will only turn start motor.bendex is ingaged manually by foot control.to check timing remove pipe plug on cyl. head at rear cly drop straight coat hanger wire 10- 12 inch long down hole.rotate engine over by fan blade with spark plugs out until wire is pushed up to top dead center remove distributor cap roator should be pointing at number one cyl. wire post.if not loosen clamp bolt and rotate. a mark on dist. housing be for you remove dist. cap will help locate rotor contact . also I.D. tag on dist.should be facing you.after that in all in order with engine running you can tweek the timming with vacuum gauge to peak vacuum or (sweet spot).wile your plugs are out clean them with wire brush and solvent or replace them . check points .020.remember fuel filter . that tank is probaly filthy.
  16. compression # is not that important,all cyl. should be equal 70 lbs.or more would be good.if you have a problem with a valve you will knowit .if avalve is stuck or leaking you could tell this buy just sticking your finger in the spark plug holes and turning over engine. of corse a very small leak would need gauge to detect.make sure you got the manifolds sealing .i don't know fuel pump presser i think there pretty low like 7 lbs. or so. i have seen people turn the intake manifold around and mount brand new down draft one barrel carb. and fabracate accelerator linkage . my orig. carb works pretty good but it took quite abit of effort and i still have a pretty black tail pipe.
  17. my car did this until I worked on carb.i replaced float and lowered float level.(float bowl to full or nedle not seating completly.there is something to the vacuum leak.( leaking valves)up draft carbs are going to do this if they are over cranked. fuel has no where to go but on the ground.you should have a pretty strong suction with hand over carb throat while cranking.but yes i would check compression first all four cyl should be equal.
  18. your float needle is not seating or your float is leaking. when i put a carb together i always blow in to inlet with carb inverted, lift up and then let float rest buy its own weight on the needle.look close at the needle and seat .the needle i got is metal not rubber tipped. its kind or hard to tell if a float is leaking.it olny takes a very little bit of gas leaking into it to make it to heavy.make sure float action is free.some times you can shake the float in your hand and hear the fuel in there.or put it in a cup of water and watch for bubbles.you can also weigh them if you know the weight or maybe have another float to compare weights.as to the rebuilding of these carbs the only seal is the bowl gasket.the accelerator pump has a leather seal that you can make from an old work glove.the idle curcit tube can be a problem on these carbs (pluging up) they are pretty hard to replace.also check your throttle plate shaft .fittmet (throttle shaft movement) to much wear will afect your idle and ported vacuum suppl y. the first thing i should have said is to check fuel supply your pump should have a sedement bowl with a screen.tiny particules can still get into float bowl . put a trans parent filter in line and see what you get. one tiny grain will mess with your needle and seat.
  19. looks good. my muffler shop guy could not make the flat flare like that .
  20. the muffler shop expaned the pipe to fit the cast flange , the clamping bolton the casting should hold the pipe tight. the small flare on pipe is a added measure to keep pipe from blowing out.also a positive seal.
  21. about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket.
  22. the carb has 1/8 inch pipe tread .you can get the brass fitting from a NAPA store. 1/8 inch pipe male to 3/16 female flare fitting. most orignial style vacuum controls have the 3/16 flare fitting.
  23. maybe you could fabracate them from hack saw blades or steel banding material .I have seen two different styles of clip on stock hub caps i think this style must be later production .after market caps do not have spun over brass. as keiser 31 told me once.after market caps you can see plymouth logo stamped in from back side. on the earlier cap the clips where part of hub cap ( not removeable) maybe 30-31?
  24. un bolt whole bracket from cross member from underside. remove two nuts under water pump. put wood 2x4 blocks on oil pan flanges and a long one across clearing oil pan maybe screw boards together to stablize. you should be able to raise up enough to remove. but i did do mine when i had the motor out and front end off.then and now auto parts did my mounts for 50 or 75 dollars apiece cant remember for sure . fan and belt need to come off also.
  25. brooklyn beer, you can give me a phone call tonight between 6-8 mountain . i think this might take more words than i would like to type. 605-343-3004 james