Brooklyn Beer

1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS

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7 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

Both Chevy and Mopars used Carter . But mopars have straight flange bolt pattern , attachment . Chevy is at angle to carb . Also being ported and closer to carb . Would make it more responsive to carb , I believe . Your carb is probably a DRT-08 209s with far side loose throttle control . That back side plug maybe a bear to get out .

  Your pic show advance line going to manifold not carb B. Beer .

So does that thumb screw facing to front of motor control idle mixture?  When I changed the old plugs out they were pretty loaded up and fouled.  The far side loose throttle control still has the hand throttle cable attached to it but I cannot get it any movement out of it like you would by pulling the knob out.  The knob end of the cable is toast and broke off so I need a new cable. The knob itself might have the end broke off as well but I have nothing to compare it too.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Yes , that screw is idle . It works opposite most , turning in increases idle . Turning out adds air decreasing vacuum up idle circuit .

  You can get a choke/ throttle universal cable at any NAPA , Advance Auto .

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This should help.  Is the thumb screw at the front facing side of the carb the idle mixture ?  I can't enlarge the picture.  And what is the carb #

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Sorry for the confusion.  I meant the clamping wing on the radiator cap not the radiator.  

Keiser's post shows the part in the Desoto Kit for sale.  Far right Cad plated "wing".  

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I am about to go out and look at this but it does resemble it from memory.  How does pulling the cable move anything ?  and is that the vacuum port I see on the left ?

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Yes ,Good pic . Shows cable jacket clamped and cable moves leveler . Lever is attached to throttle shaft where accelerator pump ( no shown ) would also attach .\ 

 Yes above is vacuum plug .

On your stuck cable did you try turning knob before pulling . May have change to friction grip cable .

Edited by ArticiferTom
vacuum , cable (see edit history)

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Well I think this carb is screwed looking now closer at the ACC pump. The hand throttle barely moves at all. This carb is leaking from the shafts as well.  Here is the best picture of the tag. I do not see any vacuum plug for ported vacuum either. 

20191207_095037.jpg

20191207_095107.jpg

20191207_094933.jpg

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Looks like a rebuild is order . That tag does not appear to be mouned correct and your pic is bottom of it . I think it is 150s . But only way to know for sure is opening up and checking jet sizes . 150s were older and on  prior model engine . Leaks shaft depends may need shaft or bushings . Do not see back side showing where port is . More pics , maybe with mirror and a little farther away .

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Is that a Chevy carb?  Longer pump on the side. Vertical.  The 209S has a shorter accelerator pump on an angle . Looking at 1st picture posted, the carb flange is not the same shape as the manifold. Drt08-209s has the same shape as the manifold.

 

If it works   Good!  Just get it running.    Is It easier to put a BB1 on. 

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I could not feel a port.  Would not mind buying a correctDRT-08-209s and keeping this one as a spare.

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The car is running and driving but I don't think I am getting enough fuel. Power feels lacking. I don't feel a vacuum port plug on the engine side of the carb. 

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there is a little hole on inside of carb throat at top where flange meets manifold     if yours is open could be your running proplem   that goes to vacuum advance       do you have a owner's manual ?

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11 minutes ago, broker-len said:

there is a little hole on inside of carb throat at top where flange meets manifold     if yours is open could be your running proplem   that goes to vacuum advance       do you have a owner's manual ?

Yep.  I was feeling around behind the carb and just not feel anything.  Found my little mirror last night so will do a little more investigating and see if there is a plug (should be)   I do have a manual but it is a 32 first edition "New Finer Plymouth"   I don't think I have an open port. Today I will spray around the carb with it running and see if I have any vac leaks.

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does the manual state     PB ?     you will see carb       I friend of mine in North Jersey,  about an Hr from me has a bunch of carter  BB1s    Gene      201 953 4255      mention my name   Bob Romano

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you should take every thing off, get your manifolds sealing. find a carb that will work with vacuum spark control. DRT-08 209 S. 1929 30 cars used cable control spark advance.the carter BB1 will work but your air cleaner will have to be cobbled to fit angled carb inlet.that vacuum line to the dist.should be removed for now you cant have constant vacuum at dist spark control.the right dist. will have weights and springs below point plate that advance the timing based on RPM's then the vacuum spark con trol pulls the whole dist. to retard timming alittle bit at very low RPM. if you dont have vac control hooked up on a good running engine you wont miss it much the cintrifical ad vance weights in the dist. do all of the work advancing the timing.the vacuum unit kind of relaxes the motor a little at low rpm .( reduce bearing load ,smoother shifting).

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