keiser31 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said: The dome light switch is shot and I see no way to take it apart. Looks to be one piece contained with the dome insert itself. Anyone making repo's? Quite an odd switch and dome light unit all in one. Well, it may be like this 1931 Dodge Brothers unit. There are slots on the sides & ends and it probably slides a little to come off of the pins. Worth a try.... Edited December 16, 2019 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 I have seen this that type and the pull-off types. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 It is a pull off type cover. The switch itself that is attached to the insert part and contains the socket is shot. Power to the socket. Good ground. New bulb. No power through the switch at the dome light to the socket and I do not see anyway to take the switch out of the dome light itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Sorry....I misread your post about the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 I think the switch is part of the housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 I believe the bezel comes away from the metal base. I am trying to find a photo I have of the inner tabs holding it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Perhaps it's like this one.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 16, 2019 Author Share Posted December 16, 2019 Cover just popped off with the tabs like you show, just no power through the switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 WD40 thru the cracks and several reps may clean it up enough to work. I think they just corrode and lose continuity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31plymouth Posted December 16, 2019 Share Posted December 16, 2019 Be very careful with that dome light. Mine shorted out years ago but I caught it just in time. I never tried to fix it . I did not want to chance it happening again. There is a lot of flammable material (padding, headliner) in that roof area and the chicken wire which could be a nice conductor. There have been a few posts of various makes of dome light shorting problems. Just a thought 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 7 hours ago, 31plymouth said: Mine shorted out years ago but I caught it just in time. I was thinking that myself. Just might snip it back and wire nut it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31plymouth Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 (edited) By the way. That chicken wire I referred to was in the roof to act as a radio antenna. The Plymouth ( and possible other Chrysler products) closed cars had a wire attached to the chicken wire and it ran down the inside passenger side of the cowl behind the interior trim to be attached to a radio. Edited December 17, 2019 by 31plymouth typo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 17, 2019 Author Share Posted December 17, 2019 Didn't Oldsmobile wrap wire under the running boards for the same ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 There were some accessory "under the running board" antennas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted December 17, 2019 Share Posted December 17, 2019 In case you might want to replace the dome light unit, there are a couple of them on Ebay right now. One of 'em may still light up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 18, 2019 Author Share Posted December 18, 2019 The great Bob Clark received my new correct carb and is changing out the seals and giving it a tune up. Question. What size is the ported vacuum and what would be the correct fitting to work with a 3/16 vac line (double flare) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesLay Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 the carb has 1/8 inch pipe tread .you can get the brass fitting from a NAPA store. 1/8 inch pipe male to 3/16 female flare fitting. most orignial style vacuum controls have the 3/16 flare fitting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 29, 2019 Author Share Posted December 29, 2019 Well the rebuilt DRT-08 showed up this evening after a total rebuild from Bob Clark to get things up to snuff. So tomorrow I am going to pull off the manifolds and change that gasket and see about getting the carb installed and the exhaust flange connection fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Here are a couple comparisons of the old incorrect carb and the new correct carb. Will be a couple more days till I get it installed as I seem to have contracted the crud. But I did get the new manifold gasket installed. This was more then shot. I trued and polished up the manifold ports as best as possible and used a skim coat of permatex ultra copper on them before mating to the gasket. Same with the gasket to block. Heard good stuff about it (700 degrees) so lets see how it works. The new gasket though was extra thick and extra crushable with equally good reviews. twice as thick as the one I took off that failed in more places then worked. The lack of any flange on the exhaust pipe though has me bummed. Guess i will just contact a muffler shop to see if they can make me a 1 1/2 inch flanged adapter piece with a swedged end to act like a coupler. Might have to do a "Rube Goldberg" repair with some muffler tape as a temporary fix just to get it running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 The old gasket was thin junk doing less of a job then more. As much as I try I can't find a short flanged adapter for this repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31plymouth Posted December 30, 2019 Share Posted December 30, 2019 Nice find on that DRT-08. As many said hard to find especially with the small accelerator pump. Good luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 30, 2019 Author Share Posted December 30, 2019 Rand Broadstreet came through on the old stock carb and Bob Clark did the rebuild. Just happened to get lucky this one was available. It really is a work of art and can't wait too hear the old girl fire up and see what she will do. Comparing to the wrong carb the differences are night and day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesLay Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 about the exhaust flange.it's been awhile back but i think I clamped the pipe in the cast mounting flange and carefully hammered the edge of the pipe down into flange groove.can't remember if a torch was needed or i did it cold. i did have new pipe held in bench vice.then i used the heavy metal reinforced exhaust gasket mat. and cut gasket to fit i also used the same matieral for the manifolds . the first time i used the store bought gaskets i could'nt get good seal.i had machine shop surface manifold and used home made gaskets.the center section of manifold was badly burned. so when it was resurfaced a thicker gasket material in the center was nessary . ok i just remembered . my muffler shop could not make a tight enough lip on pipe to fit the cast moumting flange.( it was a goofy fit ) so i cut it off and tamped it over just enough to hold in the flange and seal to the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Think I will buy a piece of 1 1/2 ID straight pipe and practice at work the next time I am brazing AC lines. Thanks for the idea. I wonder if i can make the flange from copper or a brazing bead ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesLay Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 the muffler shop expaned the pipe to fit the cast flange , the clamping bolton the casting should hold the pipe tight. the small flare on pipe is a added measure to keep pipe from blowing out.also a positive seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Got it. So bring lower clamp with me as it is larger then 1 1/2 ". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 8 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said: Got it. So bring lower clamp with me as it is larger then 1 1/2 ". Hows do these look ? Shoot me a pm with address . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 Thank You! I am thinking I can make the straight one work with a coupling Let me know what i owe you. Chris Richard 8299 Hutcheson Hill Road Springtown, TX, 76082 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesLay Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 looks good. my muffler shop guy could not make the flat flare like that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Thanks , me and buddy did them today . First time was two year ago for mine . We used an old crusty auction machine he been storing . Your shop probably has a machine capable . But operator who doesn't know how . Wish I remembered my pic phone to show . We had to do two practice ones . You have to swag out to 1-1/2" id , the use pointed cone to start lip . This being part taking a little practice . Then flip cone over to flat side and finish ,without splitting or over rolling . Then added a kick to match what was on my engine . That angle get tube heading straight down to hole in gravel pan . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted January 1, 2020 Author Share Posted January 1, 2020 I just need to whack off about 10 inches max on the repair as I have the length, just no flange. Unless you think the bend would be better? What say you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 Your getting every thing . do as works best . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broker-len Posted January 1, 2020 Share Posted January 1, 2020 one of the exhaust flanges on E Bay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Well after a set back thanks to the flu I grabbed a couple parts from the garage to work on inside. I re-torqued the manifold bolts as well to be sure after they now sat for a week. Will do again after she runs up to temp which will hopefully be very soon this weekend. So today I brought in the air cleaner to see about getting it back to where it should be to work with the DRT-08. It seems they had put in 3 different shims inside it to fit the wrong carb throat intake and tac welded it. These shims all have a number 64 stamped in them and look like some over the counter part. Must have been in a long time. Love undoing wrong crap. The more I repair the "make do" repairs from decades past on the fuel supply side the more things I see that could be causing the lack of power issue I felt on hills. Thanks to Tom and his exhaust piece maybe I can get her back together for our near 70 degree Sunday coming up ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Looks like a good fit now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Well here we are. Everything ready to go once I get the exhaust tied back up. Leaving vacuum advance off for now. Made a new hand throttle cable as well. After things get running well I start to replace the fuel lines back to steel. What size are they so I can get a roll of tubing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 They are 1/4" from tank to front in steel . Then change to copper before going in engine bay . At least thats what was on mine . I used two pieces of brake line to get to front and changed to copper by wheel well . You may want to check you BOI to see if fuel pump should be tuned on angle . Would effect running ,just looks . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brooklyn Beer Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together. Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there. It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out. Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it. DRT-08 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Did you get the orange paper gauge he sends from rebuid gasket kit . Should be 11/16" from casting lip to float in inverted position . Can send pic if you do not have . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 12 minutes ago, Brooklyn Beer said: OK, was able too combine two parts of the exhaust adapters with a little welding and finished up getting everything put back together. Started cranking and after the bowl to the carb filled it fired over but immediately I saw that gas was dripping from the air inlet for the air cleaner. Cannot get a hold of Bob Clark to see if he adjusted the float level or not so am guessing I will have to remove it and start there. It drips with no choke and no throttle. I have the crappy one I removed to do a trial run and see if I can figure it out. Bob did send a chart on what the float level should be just no instructions on how to do it. DRT-08 This? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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