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1932 (31) PA got here, and the sorting out BEGINS


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Thanks.  Do you know what the jet size is your running on the car?  What is your climate where you live?  On this rusty carb since your going to be taking it about to clean can you tell me if there is any number on the idle tube and screw?  Is it soldered in ?

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The idle tube screw seems to be marked 11  102s  It is probably soldered .  Won't attempt to unscrew it.   Don't know what' jet size is running on the car.

  I had my running carb rebuilt about 35 years ago .  Runs and starts in cold New York weather .   

 

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BB or any one else . Do you have sizes of idle tube orifices ,for 209's  11-120s tube  . The bottom jet hole and the upper larger air hole and inner tube dia. at reduced section . May tell if we are correct with tube we where sold on rebuilds . 

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OK, went and dug into carb tonight and see no numbers on the idle tube.  But I am going to solder it in the screw.  Questions.  Is this the correct orintation of the tube to the screw in regards to the little holes and the tube cut out?  And does it matter with the holes where they will face when screwed into the carb itself?  If so how do I get the alignment positing?20200309_193100.thumb.jpg.0ae4e47347f98fcfd96491cb40298b54.jpg

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Hi BB , that is wrong . Small hole goes toward bottom,called idle jet  (not same as Well jet ) .  On checking other unit direction /orientation does not matter , fuel surrounds area  .

  Can you drill gauge that small hole for me  ???   It should be #65  drill . I found mine to be miss drilled this weekend after getting in some bit number index  . Looks like when drilled  it cut and pulled bit in with out cleaning hole . Can see it some what with 10x eye loop . Now must find way to drill or ream it . The way it is has limited my fuel intake . So will try again after clearing .

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Smallest bit I have is a #60 and that is much to big to fit. Finding a #63 is going to be a hunt?  I will solder mine up tomorrow. Looking for a new carb gasket now.  grrr   The chihuahua pup decided the taste of gas was the best and destroyed it.   ha

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I tried to by a bowl gasket form one of the kit suppliers .   Would not sell just a gasket.. I don't need a rebuild kit!

Let us know if you find someone who sells the gaskets only.

thanks

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OK, even if this is the wrong idle tube I got her running with some help of a little starter fluid and I got her to run without any choke even though it likes full choke to start.  Soldered in the screw to the idle tube and wallowed out the end a little bit and screwed it in. Put everything back together and full choke and primed the carb and cranked.  Nothing.  Pulled a plug and it was wet so yanked all 4 and cleaned and dried them.  Gave her a little starter fluid and it fired over.  Little more starter fluid and full choke and she fired back up and ran and I decreased choke while holding throttle a little high.  Warmed up and decreased choke a little down until no choke.  Ran around car and set idle up a little high.  Warmed up to operating temp and I brought idle down and then the problems started. Won't idle unless idle is set around 850 rpm.  reving the motor I am getting a pop pop out the exhaust as it comes down. Not a miss one when reving.  Have advance on carb disconnected and carb set in the middle of the travel area within the advancement bracket..  Mixture screw turned out 2 turns.

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here are my two idle tubes,the bottom one is hard to read but looks like 112S. it has been repaired. the upper one is nos carter. it is clearly marked  11   118S. its been along time but i am pretty sure i put the 120S tube that the book calls for in my carb.the repaired one is the one that i broke trying to remove it.  it was in my carb. that had a tag marked 209S.i think 209S must apply to vacuum ported carb. being that 1930 did not have vac. spark control and 1932 went to carterBB1. so i am assuming my carb was tagged correctly.i dont know how to measure holes for you guys.neither one of these tubes are the 120S anyway.

IMG_20200310_185150.jpg

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Posted (edited)

The lower tube looks like what i have.  Now to hunt for the correct one.  Thank you very much for this picture. It really will help in the search.  You can measure the holes if you have a numbered drill rod drill bet index set like this.    There is a larger set too. The original lower idle tube hole should be close to a #63 as comparison to the size of these bits    26104_R-1.jpg

Edited by Brooklyn Beer (see edit history)
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The parts sheet says lower hole is #65 and the spec tuneup sheet says #62 . What do you have BB ?

  You may want to check for a exhaust leak causing that  pop-in on de-acceleration . Look for black soot arounf manifold and gaskets and all exhaust pipe joints . Cold air being drawn in expands quickly from hot exhaust causing, it .

Edited by ArticiferTom
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Found a second Carter paper confirming  #62 drill is 11-120s . I checked my tube and was able to force a # 72 in and it broke brass chip out of hole . Then was able to finger clean with #68 drill . That to is to small . So chucked up #62 and mounted tube in floating machinist vise on drill press and hand  turned down through to open it up . BB you's maybe wrong size too ,since came from same re-builder .

 Will start putting back together tonight , for another try .

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Hey....I just found these and maybe something will be of use to you. Is there a number on the end in particular that you need? I can see if I have what you want.

John

IMG_7281 (2).JPG

IMG_7279 (2).JPG

IMG_7280 (2).JPG

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holy crap.   Tom is going to weigh in I bet as he has the factory part numbers from the service paperwork.  James mentions that in his carb he found a 112S and a 118S   I do not have anything on mine

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Yes ,nice collection . I am looking for a 11-120s on those long idle tube if this drilling did not work . But also am looking for 3-107s throttle lever and shaft assembly . Also 14-92s choke shaft and arm assembly . And three well jets , the small nuts looks like in center box ,  43-53s ,43-15s and 43-43s . These latter parts are for a future rebuild of OEM truck carb . I donot see any stand pipes if you have any would be looking for 38-49s , for same project . PM if any . Thanks

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25 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

Yes ,nice collection . I am looking for a 11-120s on those long idle tube if this drilling did not work . But also am looking for 3-107s throttle lever and shaft assembly . Also 14-92s choke shaft and arm assembly . And three well jets , the small nuts looks like in center box ,  43-53s ,43-15s and 43-43s . These latter parts are for a future rebuild of OEM truck carb . I donot see any stand pipes if you have any would be looking for 38-49s , for same project . PM if any . Thanks

I will try to read the numbers and get with you in a PM.

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On 3/11/2020 at 7:43 PM, keiser31 said:

I will try to read the numbers and get with you in a PM.

IT WORKS !!!🙂 Drilling out idle jet to proper size . Installed back on , one turn out on idle screw ,full choke and 15 seconds was running . Adjusted idle up and setting back and forth , nursed until warm . Then started with out any choke or pedal , just bump starter . Throttle response seems good . Acell pump set low still cold here 1/8th  turn .

   Jon you were on money with inferior parts . 

     Must now hook up cable and linkage and spark arrester . And tweak some more when outside .

Many , many Thanks to all , for there  input and help !  BB, Jon , John , James , 31 Ply and other I am sure .

Edited by ArticiferTom (see edit history)
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GREAT.  now I need to know the hole sizes and the placement on the tube as well. If I can indeed drill mine out to proper size.  What did you drill out the well jet too?

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Mine ran good to !!!!!!!   Till I started compiling all the gas I was using    then pulled the plugs and found them black and wet---would like to talk to some one who is using the brass bowl --successfully with the proper mixture --

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Here pic of the #62 drill bit in the idle jet hole just drilled . Also shows mini chuck needed . your well jet if factory numbered should be fine . There hole is a little larger then idle jet as both idle and running fuel passes though . Verified drill size with mic as no number is written on that I would be able to read .

262124011_jetdrilled.thumb.jpg.2245793a568edc63776537349d1f41d3.jpg

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i put 400 pretty good miles on my roadster last summer .i think i got around 12 or 13 miles to the gallon. i ran it up to 57 mph . i can idle it down to like 300 rpm.my tail pipe is a little sootier than i would like but it did not foul plugs. i did get the vacuum control figuered out. maybe that helped . it has orig. correct jetting per manual for the DRT-08 209-S and my carb has the 209-S brass ID tag. maybe this is the answer .probably has more horse power and good gas milage. this is not my engine. just found the pic on line.

31ply76534-4.jpg

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It appears to be the cheap Ball & Ball Carter downdraft favored by Chrysler Corp. I am not 100 percent on the identification.

 

Obviously, identification would be a tad easier if the air cleaner were not present.

 

Jon.

Edited by carbking (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

Hello BB and all , man time flies . Well after my initial start up .by enlarging jet hole only . And the problem BB and Broker-Len had with fuel consumption  ie running maybe rich . I decided to finish the idle tube mod to spec by reducing the economizer jet down two drill sizes . The carb had to come off anyway ,as i had noted intake and exhaust leaks at manifold . So had to order gaskets and then hand planed manifolds to within 20thou . A warp was most of my leak . Also added ferrules to exhaust tubes . Next was the leak at the exhaust pipe ,then at the clamps . I never had a tailpipe . Muffler had turn down on exit just behind cab . So decided to hand bend tailpipe and fab OEM tailpipe hanger . Finished that and was hating to take carb idle tube out again since it needed to be sealed with Seal-all every time . 

   So new plan envolved something to fix that . So first reduced constricted area ,(economizer) which stretched length a tenth inch . Before cutting found out by dry fitting , was  never going to work . A inspection with 10x eye loop show where it was drilled out and not straight either . Solution , mill to 1/4" and install with o-rings . beautiful . Seals and removable . Back together and weather turns cold till now . So Sunday started . And it was harder starting . probability because of leaner . Full choke barely helped . Why ?  Because same gypsy removed the choke system components . All was left is sliding new solid cone . So once it was warmed  test ride was good . Ran quieter , because of exhaust repairs and carb preformed as good as my Zenith . Maybe nicer on acceleration .

   Next job ,after a few honey due projects is modify standpipe and install missing choke system ie two springs , brass sleeves and ring ,cone with vacuum internal release , and standpipe chimney slide shut off . Got these parts off ebay parts carb DRT181 ,  I think . I'll keep you posted .

   Anyone have a choke cone from 209 , would be interested if there are numbers on it . Number mine is little different then spec . sheet ? What a project ,err . Nice to be retired and quarantined .

Edited by ArticiferTom
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Hey Tom, I have attached a few pictures of my choke cone collection.  The 58A-38's  came from my DRT- 08 209S  The others I extras I had .  I think I destroyed an RJH  a long time ago and keep some parts.   The 58A's are little bigger in diameter and have 2 small vertical slots in them .  They are 58a-38 but my DRT08 209S illustration  shows a 58A-37S

EE43D814-9B04-49E1-8A89-008E22ADE2A8.jpeg

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Yes, we have been trying them out but am still on the look out for the correct tube. I drilled out a chevy tube to correct specs and it runs and starts and idles OK but still lacking

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Yeah , 31plymouth the cone i have is from a DRT maybe 181 model it is number 58A-34 . They all look to be the same . Where are the slots you see ?  I wonder if number diff as to do with vacuum release strength of spring inside cone or something . If your interested in trading one of your 38's for a 34 . Since you say from 209's .

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