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Suggestion for a riser to elevate a car in the trailer

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I am looking for a suggestion to raise a car in my trailer off the floor by 4” so that the car door will clear the escape door frame above the fender. I can fabricate something out of 2 by lumber but wonder if there is a plastic grid or ???? available? Anyone had a similar issue? Thoughts? Suggestions? Looking for a light weight solution.

 

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Thanks Joe

 

Interesting, but as you indicated, pretty pricey! That certainly is the concept that I had in mind. I will continue to look for other options.

 

Appreciate your input!

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Race Ramps are for temporary use made of foam encapsulated in plastic composite.

 

They are not intended or designed to rest a vehicle on for extended periods.

 

i had a set for a few years - I gave them to a friend.

 

You need to buy a trailer built to satisfy your particular needs.

 

You cannot cheaply modify an existing trailer.

 

 

Jim

Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)
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When my trailer was built, the factory raised the floor of my trailer a few inches so the bottom edge of the driver's door would clear the inside wheel well and the bottom of the escape door. An engineering change like that is what the original poster needs done to a new trailer. Stacking wood up to get the 4 inches he needs creates a host of problems which could become safety issues. 

 

If there are no other fitment issues the original poster should consider adding the appropriate size winch to his existing trailer and then winch the car in and out of the trailer. That way there is no need to open the driver door and it does not need to clear the wheel well and no alterations to the trailer are needed that compromise safety. I actually added a winch to my trailer and use it for all of my cars that I can winch in & out. The bonus of using the winch is that it adds additional anchoring  and augments the 4 wheel baskets I use to anchor the car down to E-Track.

 

I agree with Jim that you cannot cheaply and SAFELY modify an exiting trailer.

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If you line up a vehicle straight - you can park on an upgrade to load and unload using an electric winch to load and unload.

 

No need to drive a vehicle into or out of the trailer - no escape door needed.

 

I load and unload all vehicles in this manner.

 

 

Jim

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On 11/13/2019 at 8:47 AM, Trulyvintage said:

If you line up a vehicle straight - you can park on an upgrade to load and unload using an electric winch to load and unload.

 

No need to drive a vehicle into or out of the trailer - no escape door needed.

 

I load and unload all vehicles in this manner.

 

 

Jim

 

I agree........also, I will often put a bottle or floor jack under the hitch and jack the front end of the trailer up high enough so even on flat ground the car will roll out and in with ease......and better control than on flat ground. My first trailer had an escape door thirty years ago, I have 25 years of trailering without them, and as long as you are fit and trim, no door is necessary.

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1 hour ago, edinmass said:

 

and as long as you are fit and trim, no door is necessary.

 

Thats the problem! I was not designed to meet this criteria! Agreed that a winch is the most sensible solution. Any thoughts on best brand of winch?

 

Thanks,

 

Gary

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Harbor Freight Badlands with wireless remote control mounted on their winch plate which - in turn - you mount on a piece of dimensional lumber the same size as the plate - this keeps the roller fairlead up off the floor.

 

I use a 12K because the motor speed is just right to suit my needs.

 

I mounted a 12VDC deep cycle battery next to the winch - it is trickle charged of the 7 way plug on my tow vehicle that is on its own  30 amp fused circuit.

 

 

Jim

Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)
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34 minutes ago, Trulyvintage said:

Harbor Freight Badlands with wireless remote control mounted on their winch plate which - in turn - you mount on a piece of dimensional lumber the same size as the plate - this keeps the roller fairlead up off the floor.

 

I use a 12K because the motor speed is just right to suit my needs.

 

I mounted a 12VDC deep cycle battery next to the winch - it is trickle charged of the 7 way plug on my tow vehicle that is on its own  30 amp fused circuit.

Jim, when you get a chance, can you please post a photo?  Thoughts on anchoring?

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I have a Badlands 12k also...........price is fantastic.......and after ten years you can throw it away, buy a new one, and still be at less than half the price of others. 12K is over kill....which means the unit never works hard.

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Harbor Freight winch mounting plate:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-channel-winch-mount-62446.html


 

Harbor Freight 12K winch:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/zxr-12000-lb-trucksuv-winch-63770.html

 

Lay winch plate across center front of trailer - make sure mounting holes line up on winch base that you are installing to the mounting holes on the plate you are using before you drill them thru the floor - make sure the location of the holes you are drilling go thru the floor and not into a structural member of the trailer - make sure there is enough room between the hole you drill and the structural member near it ( if any ) to get a fender washer on a bolt and be able to get a socket in the bolt.

 

Carefully drill your holes - check for proper alignment - then drill out holes with the next size bit 1/16” inch larger to allow for easy installation of bolts.

 

Then drill out the dimensional lumber that will go between the winch plate and the floor.

 

Place the fully assembled winch onto the winch plate - thread the winch cable through the roller fairlead - place this on your dimensional lumber.

 

Install grade 5 or 8 hex head bolts of suitable length with lock & fender washers from underneath.

 

This is best done with someone in the trailer to maneuver the winch as needed to line up the holes.

 

 

Jim

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43 minutes ago, edinmass said:

I have a Badlands 12k also...........price is fantastic.......and after ten years you can throw it away, buy a new one, and still be at less than half the price of others. 12K is over kill....which means the unit never works hard.


The 9K winch has a motor speed that is too fast for my taste.

 

I transport vehicles up to 8000 pounds:

 

E5AD6D90-37BA-4FDB-804A-B35840C47B10.thumb.jpeg.c7df93e6f7c3eff2c040ff17181ce507.jpeg


902B371F-E46B-4F0F-9443-726BF5BE47CA.thumb.jpeg.d035649e081a67ace3ad319c9aba4310.jpeg

 

3673A1D0-EF10-4F1F-B723-0D14344FC866.thumb.jpeg.ffb9f6ebc847e3ca5456c80ace884da2.jpeg
 


D8A0E563-BDDB-4D85-8F52-6A5B38BF604F.thumb.jpeg.6d052fb195db5a8559261d1fa8102fed.jpeg

 

 

Jim

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Well, the problem seems to be getting out the drivers door.

I do not know what vehicle, but if there was room.....

 

Put wood ramp length of floor on drivers side, and a 4 inch angle iron the length of passenger side to keep vehicle from  sliding sideways.

 

Then of course tie it down.

 

Evaluate clearance to drivers door opening and to Passenger side of car to trailer wall, jounce clearance too.

 

Shim drivers side as needed.

 

May be the cheapest way

.

 

 

 

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Maybe a bit more labor-intensive, and raising the center of gravity, but here's another possibility:

 

Trailer axles typically attach ABOVE the springs.

Rotate the axle(s) 180 degrees, and then unbolt and rotate the backing plates with brake assembly back to their original configuration.

Attach the axle(s) BELOW the springs.

This will yield typically a minimum of four (4") inches additional height between the wheels and the upper surface of the wheel box inside the trailer.

The internal wheelbox can then be modified - cut down - to result in additional clearance to open a driver door, and could even allow for a driver-side access door to be cut in and braced on the trailer.

This is really not as much work as it may seem.

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Thanks for the thoughts/ideas! Picked up a 12000# Badlands winch with a coupon like posted above. $299.00 plus tax! Probably the cheapest solution. 

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14 hours ago, Marty Roth said:

Maybe a bit more labor-intensive, and raising the center of gravity, but here's another possibility:

 

Trailer axles typically attach ABOVE the springs.

Rotate the axle(s) 180 degrees, and then unbolt and rotate the backing plates with brake assembly back to their original configuration.

Attach the axle(s) BELOW the springs.

This will yield typically a minimum of four (4") inches additional height between the wheels and the upper surface of the wheel box inside the trailer.

The internal wheelbox can then be modified - cut down - to result in additional clearance to open a driver door, and could even allow for a driver-side access door to be cut in and braced on the trailer.

This is really not as much work as it may seem.


It is dangerous and unsafe to flip a drop axle - they are designed and engineered to distribute weight for specific application.

 

 

Jim

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I too winch on and off. I use a Super Winch “ winch to go” which is a 4,500 lb winch in a tool box mounted to a plate that you can mount to your floor or use the straps and u bolts included to “ tie off” to something. The wireless remote and winch does cost more than Harbor Freight but is much more precise. 

 

If you are still are still looking for “ risers” search for “ ramp overs”. Race guys use them so look in that world.

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9 hours ago, Trulyvintage said:


It is dangerous and unsafe to flip a drop axle - they are designed and engineered to distribute weight for specific application.

 

 

Jim

 

Agreed !

and thank you, Jim, for that additional note.

Of course, that was not my suggestion.

 

I would not suggest to flip a "DROP" axle !

Flipping a straight axle, as I once did on an older open trailer gained 4-6" of ground clearance for the ramps of the open-pit style trailer,

as well as the ability to relocate fenders if needed

Edited by Marty Roth
typo (see edit history)

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