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1924 buick Master 6 open car new project new guy here.


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That is just another example of what makes the old car hobby so great.

It's the generosity of other enthusiasts, sharing knowledge and parts and providing support to each other.

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Had a parts motor shipped back east here from one of the guy that comes all the way across from the great northwest about every year. He did bring it but bitched that it was a piece of junk and he wanted it off of his truck right away when he arrived. A good friend, Larry Schramm, needed a rod for his 1915 Buick truck several years ago and because of this "junk motor" I was able to supply one for him. I bought it because it had enough main components that it was well worth the $800 I had in it to me. What would be the cost of producing a Crank Shaft or Cylinder Jug compared to the small amount I paid for it? Big $$$ to reproduce stuff that is 105 years old. 

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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If you drive your antique cars like they should be driven then you will end up needing engine parts eventually.

Better to purchase an engine and stash it away then to let it get scrapped and have those parts gone forever.

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That's very true...that's why every time i see something that old  and i can buy it . i do.. 

when i got this 24 it came with a few extra parts , that's golden for me ..!

found an extra Carburetor on a swap meet , in a small town near mexico border, i could not believe it when i saw it..! 

if i would only had more space..!

i also save this one from the scrap..! looong trip to get it do.. but will looks nice in the living room..

i belongs to that war bird..

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Today got to take some pictures of the top ,, to see what i have to work with..

Also got to work on the frame seats . doing some Rust Converter spray to get it ready for paint.

upholstery is getting done soon , so i have to harry up..!

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I have to see if the tag on the seat match the job number plate under the front seat frame on the car .

Usually on my  29 the job # is engraved in the seal wood parts front driver side  under the carpet ,, 

let's see if this one does too..

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Tomorrow going to the paint store here in town to see the  shades of greens i can find that kind of matches the leather i'm using on the  interior , to finish  the one inch border top all the way around before we start the upholstery, , just to get all in line and ready for it

Also my friend did some top wood pieces that where''t so good right where you nail the top to the body.

tomorrow will get to do the lids for the under seats front and back  and lube all the latches , make sure all works just fine..

pics will be coming soon.

Cheers .. and stay busy..!

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Hi Apolo1100,

 Been looking at your posts today to see your progress, looks good, well done.

 I'm building a basket case 26 Chrysler and busy trying to replace the wood in the body, I have most of the original floor frame, door and cowl wood and all the wood for the 2 sides of the rear body section, but all the wood across the very rear panel and the front seat frame are missing. 

 I think the early Chrysler bodies were made by Fisher, the same guys who built a lot of the Chev and General motors car bodies at the time. It is amazing how similar the wood is inside both car bodies. The pictures you have loaded of the rear body I'm sure is very similar to what should be in my car, and looking at the design of your front seat, that too will be very much alike.

 Is there any chance of loading up some pictures of the front seat frame once the upholstery has been removed please. Pictures of the bare seat frame from both sides would be appreciated.

 Good luck with your car, it will be great to see it finished.

Best regards

Viv

 

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Apolo:

 Here is what the late 1924-1925 Sagebrush green looks like used on the sport touring and roadster. Earlier 1924 Sport models had maroon.

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1924-45 painted to look like a model 55.

1218922302_IMG_15941.JPG.31f893524daa7e7f43d53a6f6e0f0c5f.JPG 1925-55 with 1924 style top.

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Same car with the new owners at the 2017 BCA nationals.

 

 

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whouu ..!  that car with the  sagebrush green looks really good..!  i love it ..

 but since my car is already paint on light beige yellowish color , i think i'll do it like  one guys 1925 two tone car . adding the forest green on top section of hood and top lip all around the car . 

let me see if i can upload the cars picture ..

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  • 3 weeks later...

here we go again..!  cold start on the Buick . got a good 2-00 battery cable made to spacs.  and a 640 CCA batt starts very easy..

run a ground cable to the frame and other to the transmission bolt, just to make sure we have a good Ground.

made the screen filter on the tank. fit just perfect .

Now im dealing with the tie rods on the drag link.. the ball on the studs are pretty worn out , the two cups i think can be reused, but i refused to pay $134.00 for each stud,  so i think i going to have them made new., or worst case scenario.. will weld them and regrind  it back to size.

I can't bealive the studs for a Model A are $8 to $16 ., and we Buick owners have to pay that ridiculous amount..!

Unless anybody knows another stud from a truck or car that may fit , ball is  1 1/16 in diameter  and threat size is 5/8

I will find a cheaper  solution for this..!

Cheers.

Apolo

 

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lost of work done today..vapor blasting some stuf..including the spare carb ..it came out like new..

don't have a pic yet .

next step is heat treat the stud for the tie Rod.

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Today was cleaning the carb on the speedster ,, we have a vintage Dragsters reunion on Saturday here in  ugly CA...!

so we are planing on drive this beast to the place from about few block from it..

i was trying to start it  by hand,  what a job, and with a recent  shoulder surgery ...

it did kick me once .. but was to hard for me ..

will try to post a video running  on Saturday.

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Apolo

Does the venturi air valve close completely or does it stop at partially open position ?

The 1925 Marvel carbs have a half circle shaped fixed air valve spacer block which swelled over time due to bad die cast aluminum alloy, and the air valve hits this block before fully closed position.  This results in air leak past the air valve and it will not generate proper vacuum to draw fuel out of the venturi nozzle.  This will affect performance.

To fix this we remove the spacer block and hand file the flat side until the valve will swing closed. may have to file .030 off until it works.

Since Marvel changed this carb every year between years 1923 and 1926, I don't know if the 1924 carb used this same die cast spacer block.

First pic is what to look for: valve stops before closing completely; second pic shows valve fully closed. 

kevin

venturi block before.jpg

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Hi Kevin.

I already notice this issue on this carbs by reading one of the old posts..

my carb close the valve completely like the second picture..

it took me o lots of work trying to get the plunger loose from the adjuster with the spring inside.. was all rust it out.

but with heat and a bit of muscle it around  i got it loose..then the two bottom screws was the same problem.. heat it a few times to get it going..

ohh..!  also the main shaft was stuck to the body .. , that was the hardest one of all..

 but since there was a lot of aluminium to heat up .. it took a few times before got loose..

 

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Apolo, 

     Great job straightening this and putting it together.  It looks like you are missing the leather dust boot that goes between the sheetmetal cover and the tie rod itself.   It is a leather oval with a hole in it that fits around the ball.  Bobs sells them for about $5 a pair.    Hugh

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Thanks Hugh for the info ..!  

i was going to make it out of a left over piece of leather from the upholstery material, but its always easier to buy them from Bob's..

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Can  anybody tell me the shifting pattern for my car ..?

I thought that it will be same as my 29 ... but Not ..

this 24 ..it shows the reverse position  in the front far right..is that correct..?

 

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