Straight 8 buying advice

[Stooge]

Hi gang,  I am still a few weeks out from pulling my recently acquired 37 Buick Century coupe into my workshop as I have a few other cars that need finishing,  but that hasn't discouraged me from window shopping. my coupe came to me without an engine or transmission, but was a good enough of a deal that it didn't bother me, (although I obviously would have preferred to have a powertrain with it), but now I am on the search for the major components atleast. i have been doing quite a bit of reading and researching, but am still very new to these engines, and although they seem fairly indestructible through the eyes of someone not as familiar with them (myself) ,  are there any major , not so obvious things to look for when searching for one of these engines?  Aiming for a 320, but choices around this region for any buick straight 8 seem to be fairly limited,  atleast in regard to what is advertised for sale through different outlets, (craigslist, a few regional car forums, asking around the car club and local engine builders). There a few that seem tempting but are just far enough away that i would want to be certain i was buying it as not to waste the day or weekend trip to pick it up.  Or is it a case of, if it spins freely,  there theoretically isn't much to worry about? i am planning on a modest rebuild, but would hate to spend the time and money getting it, to have an unusable block, or one requiring extensive machine work. front runner candidates are  a late 30s 320 for sale on ebay, says that it spins freely, but when i cant go touch something i am a little apprehensive, along with shipping may kill what is not a bad price. there is also,  what i suspect is a 263, (not correct to the 37 but appealing nonetheless) mated to a dynaflow and comes with radiator and some other bits,  for sale in new jersey. 5'ish hour drive each way, but is set up for the torque tube and would save both time and money in theory.  my workshop is located behind a nostalgia based alcohol/ top fuel funny car shop and engine builder, and although i would like to keep this budget oriented and do the work myself, farming out the machine work is not out of the question. 

 

Any advice and insight is greatly appreciated, thanks!

[pont35cpe]

The `37 Century 50 series came with the 320 engine, the 263 and 248 engines are about 4" shorter than the 320 engine. The 320 also has a different transmission than the smaller 40 series. You will need a `37 Century 320 for direct bolt in, other years/series may have different mounts.. Good luck..

[1939_Buick]

Dave T is the man to contact for pre war Buick Parts http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

The torque tube length, diff and drive shaft varies from year to year. After 1940 were more consistent

 A 263 is later version of the 248ci.

 

Anything other than a 320 engine, 37 transmission & 37 torque tube will require engineering work to fit.  

Is the diff in the car a series 60 1937? Or something else?

 

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2017 by 1939_Buick (see edit history)

[MCHinson]

1939 Buick has given you great advice. 

 

The 1937 Century is a 60 Series with a 320 Engine. Call Dave Tacheny between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. He is the best source for the right engine and anything else needed for the car to restore it correctly as easily and inexpensively as possible.  You may wish to also consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can check out the club website at http://www.3638buickclub.org/.

[michel88]

Using a 320 in 1937 Century will make the car correct and more valuable.  The Century is very desirable because it is the small series body with the big engine. 

[Matt Harwood]

You will surely regret not springing for the 320 when you're done if you go with one of the smaller motors. I have both a '41 Super with a 248 and a '41 Limited limousine with a 320 and even though the limousine is 600 pounds heavier, it flat-out RUNS AWAY from the Super with the smaller engine. It's not even close. The big engine is smoother, has more torque, and just does everything better. It will make that coupe feel downright fast. The bigger engine will also get you closer to modern performance envelope with 60 MPH cruising (more if you gear it properly). It's just effortless in everything it does.
 

Skip the Dynaflow as well, it'll sap a ton of power, especially from a smaller engine. If you want an automatic, I guess you don't have much choice, but I'd go with the original 3-speed manual which will shift nicely.

 

Please, please, please don't give up and do a generic 350 Chevy, OK? Please. A Century coupe is a rare, desirable car, it deserves to be right.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

I think Pete Phillips in Bonham, TX has a '37 320 for sale. Saw it on facebook

 

  Ben

[Stooge]

3 hours ago, 1939_Buick said:

Dave T is the man to contact for pre war Buick Parts http://forums.aaca.org/topic/206688-dave-tachney/

The torque tube length, diff and drive shaft varies from year to year. After 1940 were more consistent

 A 263 is later version of the 248ci.

 

Anything other than a 320 engine, 37 transmission & 37 torque tube will require engineering work to fit.  

Is the diff in the car a series 60 1937? Or something else?

 

 

 

 

I have heard Dave's name mentioned here alot, is he someone who sells and sources parts as a job, or a side hobby/just deals with acquaintances? I would hate to cold call someone and have them not expect random calls from strangers looking for parts. 

As far as i know, and from what i can surmise, it is the original 37 century rear end and torque tube still in the car, just not connected to anything forward of that. 

 

3 hours ago, MCHinson said:

1939 Buick has given you great advice. 

 

The 1937 Century is a 60 Series with a 320 Engine. Call Dave Tacheny between 4 and 7 pm Central at 763-427-3460. He is the best source for the right engine and anything else needed for the car to restore it correctly as easily and inexpensively as possible.  You may wish to also consider joining the 36-38 Buick Club. You can check out the club website at http://www.3638buickclub.org/.

 

I have been poking through the buick club site, as well as the torque tube articles and i have to say, as an outsider coming in, i am astounded by the amount of finite detail information available. It sounds like i should be calling Dave soon. Does he regularly sell and ship stuff? I think i saw it mentioned he lives in Minnesota?

 

2 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

You will surely regret not springing for the 320 when you're done if you go with one of the smaller motors. I have both a '41 Super with a 248 and a '41 Limited limousine with a 320 and even though the limousine is 600 pounds heavier, it flat-out RUNS AWAY from the Super with the smaller engine. It's not even close. The big engine is smoother, has more torque, and just does everything better. It will make that coupe feel downright fast. The bigger engine will also get you closer to modern performance envelope with 60 MPH cruising (more if you gear it properly). It's just effortless in everything it does.
 

Skip the Dynaflow as well, it'll sap a ton of power, especially from a smaller engine. If you want an automatic, I guess you don't have much choice, but I'd go with the original 3-speed manual which will shift nicely.

 

Please, please, please don't give up and do a generic 350 Chevy, OK? Please. A Century coupe is a rare, desirable car, it deserves to be right.

 

Coming from more traditional hot rods amd customs,  i just inherently wanted the 320 to start with, and with something like this, and not being familiar with how the smaller straight 8's performed, was nervous about chancing getting the smaller engines. From what i have read of the dynaflows, i would prefer not to use one, and was originally wanting to have a manual trans. 

No worries, i have nothing against sbc's and have used them in chevys before, but it never crossed my mind for this car. I will admit, i had been toying with a nailhead before i actually brought the car home, but i want to do the car justice and although it will be a modest restoration, im going to try and be as correct as finances allow.

 

I've had this on my ebay watch list for a few weeks now, supposedly spins free, but without being able to see it in person, its hard to get an idea of the condition. I'll track down the logistics guy at work tomorrow and get an idea of what the freight costs will be to ship something this size  https://m.ebay.com/itm/36-37-38-39-40-1936-1937-1938-1939-1940-BUICK-320-STRAIGHT-8-EIGHT-ENGINE-MOTOR-/131846978039?hash=item1eb2b139f7%3Ag%3AdUAAAOSwOVpXXvVS&_trkparms=pageci%3A7e7c5cf7-9283-11e7-bbc2-74dbd180a60a%7Cparentrq%3A5401198e15e0a9e44778e9a9fff92675%7Ciid%3A5

 

Thank you everyone for the advice!

[MCHinson]

Dave Tacheny's business is buying and selling 1936-1941 Buick cars, parts, parts cars, and about anything related to 1936-1941 Buicks. He is used to getting calls from strangers asking for parts. I

[37_Roadmaster_C]

Like Matt said... Dave is very used to getting calls from any and all Buick parts hunters. He knows his parts very well and can be of great help. As said above, get the 320 and the three speed manual transmission and you will be vary happy you did. These cars are very desirable and well engineered machines. Trying to graft something else into them is dificult to do and simply lowers the value. The stock configuration is easy to drive and maintain and the Century coupe was the hot-rod of the Buick lineup. If I remember corectly the rpm/speed graph in the service manual shows the Century at 100+ at top rpm.  It is probably a fairy tale, but I once was told that the Century got its name because it would go 100 mph... IE century=100 years.   Most likely not true, but still a good story .

[jenz38]

Nice rare car...??..

An 320 with a manual box,for me too ,is a must have in a '37 car...an automatic tranny will not match ( for me) into a atentic prewar car .

 for me its a streedrod then,

disco-billet- Wheels ,and a GM tilt coulumn with a boring Grant is not far away then .... (for my opinion ...?).

 

Be prepared this Buick parts are all "one Year only"  parts.. look for the right big '37 synchromesh.

 For the 320 Engines, it will work with all later 320s (they have also better sealing in rear and the front mountingplate on the early engines will fit onto the newer ones ).

Mainthing is,that they will come out of a car with manual Tranny.. because of they have different boltcircle and pilotbearing inserts in the crank instead of the Auto trannys.

M2C

[Dynaflash8]

On 9/25/2017 at 3:28 PM, pont35cpe said:

The `37 Century 50 series came with the 320 engine, the 263 and 248 engines are about 4" shorter than the 320 engine. The 320 also has a different transmission than the smaller 40 series. You will need a `37 Century 320 for direct bolt in, other years/series may have different mounts.. Good luck..

It is a 60 series, and in fact a model 66

[pont35cpe]

2 hours ago, Dynaflash8 said:

It is a 60 series, and in fact a model 66

OOPS!! Fat fingers, and didn`t proof read before submitting..