1938 Buick Century Model 61 - Four Door Touring Sedan - Trunk Back

[MCHinson]

4 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:

In lieu of a freeze plug I cut a piece of stainless steel fuel line to the correct length (same height as uncompressed spring and put it under the washer thus the washer cannot compress on the spring and aside from no by-pass flow all other flow is as it was engineered by Buick (with a small amount allowed to flow around the washer). Food for thought...

 

The freeze plug is slightly larger than the original bypass valve but it is not a tight fit inside the housing. It will allow a little bit less coolant to bypass the radiator than the original closed bypass valve would. I think that it gives almost the same effect as your idea but a little bit less coolant bypassing the radiator. I might consider your approach since it would enable me to reinstall the spring (although not functional). I sort of like the idea of keeping the original spring there with the rest of the original parts for someone to discover some decades in the future. 

[38Buick 80C]

1 hour ago, MCHinson said:

I sort of like the idea of keeping the original spring there with the rest of the original parts for someone to discover some decades in the future. 

 Yeah so did I...

[MCHinson]

This morning, we finished up a little bit of metal repair on the engine splash pans. We then painted the splash pans. I need to pick up some replacement bolts tomorrow so I can install the engine splash pans. While I could probably reuse the original bolts, a few of them have some significant deterioration, so I would prefer to replace them. 

 

I also spent some time cleaning up the garage and organizing my 1938 Buick parts.  I then temporarily installed the carburetor on the Intake Manifold. It looks better there, and does not have to take up any additional room stored somewhere else.  I later decided to go ahead and install the valve cover decal. I ordered a few more parts today.

[Taylormade]

Love the decal!  Buick sure got that right.

[Durant Mike]

Mat

I'm really enjoying your restoration and appreciate you posting your progress. It's fun to see the car come together and your doing a great job.

[jeff]

Great restoration thread!  I am just catching up after West pointed it out to me.

 

No, I do not quite have 14,000 hubcaps - but after some years of buying anything that might be a slight upgrade, I do have about 12 or so to choose from.  Some are pretty nice and shiny, but most all have some defect - scratches and dings.  Certainly will work and look good from 10 feet.  Ten pictured below, four more I set aside for my own use, and four on the car - 18 total, pretty close to 14,000.

 

Where are you located?  Hubcaps are living a nice quiet retirement in my garage in Dayton OH.  Priced more than reasonably.

 

Send me a PM if interested.

Jeff

[MCHinson]

Jeff,

Thanks. I dug my four hubcaps out yesterday when I was cleaning up and rearranging my project parts. I think that they might all buff out well enough to work. I will try to figure this out in the near future. I will certainly be in touch if I need some. 

[MCHinson]

This morning, I got several engraving orders that interfered with work on the 1938 Buick project. Since my business is helping pay for the project, I guess I can't complain when business is good, even though I would prefer to work on the Buick. My brake hone arrived in today's mail. This afternoon, I spent a while working on the master cylinder. It is not perfect but I think that with a little bit more time tomorrow I might be able to get it cleaned up enough to use it. It feels good now, but there are still a few small spots that look like they need a little bit more honing. 

 

Tonight, feeling like I needed to accomplish something on the Buick, I installed the engine splash pans. 

[MCHinson]

I originally thought that I would be replacing some of the external metal lines on the engine so I did not install them earlier on in the process of reassembly of the engine. I recently decided that I could reuse some or all of those lines. This morning, I cleaned up the line that supplies oil to the valve train. First I used a wire wheel on my bench grinder to carefully remove most of the surface rust from the metal line. Then I used three different grades of steel wool to clean up the line. I then coated it with a matte finish clear enamel and hung it up to dry. After it dried, I installed it. It would have certainly have been easier to install that before installing the fuel pump, but I was able to do it. I was happy with the look. Later I cleaned up and installed the fuel supply line, distributor vacuum advance line, and the vacuum line.

 

I finished using the brake hone on the brake master cylinder and applied what is hopefully a final coat of paint to outside of the master cylinder and will allow it to dry overnight. I received my brake lines today. I was initially planning to order them from one vendor who is well known for preformed brake lines. I called them and found out that they don't have the patterns for a 1938 60 Series Buick. I tried to explain to them that what I wanted was exactly the same as the 1938 40 Series Buick that they do have patterns for, except that I needed 4 inches added to the two lines to the front wheels. The guy that I spoke with informed me that they won't work that way. I would have to mark and cut up or fold up my old lines and send the lines to them to have them make me a brake line kit and add it to their patterns. Since I really did not want to do that, I found another source that has a kit that is supposed to cover a 1938 60 Series Buick. It is going to be a little bit more work, and since their kits cover multiple cars, I am supposed to have a few extra lines included. Tomorrow, I will see if I can match up my old lines to the new lines and do some bending to get started on the brake system reassembly. 

 

I have hear some conflicting stories on the best brake fluid to use over the last few years. Without doing any real research on the issue, since the lines are going to be all brand new and everything else has been apart and will be spotlessly cleaned, I am thinking Silicone fluid is a good idea. If anybody has any reason to convince me to change my mind on that, please let me know soon.  

[MCHinson]

I only had a short time to work on the Buick today. I decided to work on the brake lines. The kit was much cheaper than a custom designed kit from " the usual guys". The kit that I bought does have extra lines and limited instructions, but they are all double flared so all you have to do is measure your old lines, bend the new lines to match the old ones, and install them. It is fairly easy to install, although bending them does take a little bit of time. I had enough time to  complete most of the lines, but did not have enough time to do the last two lines on the rear end. I have temporarily installed the brake line fittings but need to buy some new copper washers for all off the brake junction blocks.  

 

After giving it my best effort with the brake hone, I have decided that the brake master cylinder still has some slight pitting that may or may not be a problem. It will be easier to deal with this now than after the body is back on the car, so I am going to go ahead and send the master cylinder off to be resleeved. The one obvious non-original brake line to the right front wheel that was on the car made it such that I did not know the original routing of that line but it looks fairly obvious that the line should go over the Torque Tube, and then mirror the left side line since there were holes in the right frame rails located in logical places to match the routing where the left front wheel line goes through the frame, so I made an educated guess on the proper routing of that line.  

[Taylormade]

Very disconcerting for me to see the brake line attached to the "driveshaft."  I had to stare at your photo for a second before I remembered Buicks have a torque tube, not an exposed driveshaft like my 32 Dodge Brothers.  Looking very nice!

[MCHinson]

It is also difficult to photograph it so you can see it well but there is over an inch of clearance between the torque tube and the brake line. The original line there had been patched and run over the frame rail against the floorboard. I really did not like how it was originallly routed. 

[MCHinson]

This morning, I drove my 1937 Buick Century to our local Cars and Coffee. This afternoon, I spent a little bit of time on the 1938 Buick Project. I installed the remaining two brake lines. I also cleaned up the Voltage Regulator. I removed quite a bit of surface rust on the cover, the body of the assembly, and all of the terminals. With a quick check with my volt ohm meter, I think that the regulator might be in working condition now that all of the terminals are cleaned up and can actually conduct current. I will need to do some additional research, but I think it is OK. After cleaning it up, I applied a coat of paint to the voltage regulator cover.

[MCHinson]

This  morning, I jacked up the front end and disassembled the front brakes. Everything looked fairly good with the exception of the amount of sand inside the hubs from the sandblasting and the condition of the inside of the brake wheel cylinders. I expected that over 23 years of sitting would have the brake cylinders stuck pretty good, and I was not disappointed. I took photos before any cleaning, and after a quick basic cleanup, as well as a few to help me remember the assembly sequence. I left the two brake cylinders soaking in solvent and will see if they come apart tomorrow. 

[Gary W]

Boy does this all look so familiar!!

Great Job Matt!

[MCHinson]

Yesterday, I had no idea if I would be able to get the parts out of the wheel cylinders or not, this morning, I was able to easily drive the internal components out of the wheel cylinders. After a good cleaning, and honing the cylinders, I was able to reassemble and install the wheel cylinders. Since I never got any advice one way or the other about which type of brake fluid to use, I decided to go with the recommendation for DOT3 fluid that was on the instruction sheet for the wheel cylinder rebuild kits.

[Spinneyhill]

Are you fitting oversize cups after honing the cylinders? I had some honed years ago and they needed oversize cups to work without leaking. My recollection is I bought 10 or 20 thou over cups.

[Taylormade]

Every time someone brings up the DOT3 or DOT5 argument, you get a million opinions.  I went with DOT5 silicon because I was tired of having all my chassis paint being eaten off by DOT3.  I have all new or relined cylinders, master cylinder and brake lines.  Most people like it, but some hate it and will, I'm sure, tell you why.

[keiser31]

Don't forget to put white grease (not too much) on those areas where the side of the brake shoe rubs on the backing plate. That will save the wear on the backing plate piece and help the shoes glide in and out easier.

Edited November 7, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[MCHinson]

5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Are you fitting oversize cups after honing the cylinders? I had some honed years ago and they needed oversize cups to work without leaking. My recollection is I bought 10 or 20 thou over cups.

 

Actually the front wheel cylinders were remarkably clean after I got them apart. It took almost no honing to clean them up. There was some crud that needed to be removed from the surface but there was no pitting, so I think that the original cups will be fine. 

[MCHinson]

4 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Every time someone brings up the DOT3 or DOT5 argument, you get a million opinions.  I went with DOT5 silicon because I was tired of having all my chassis paint being eaten off by DOT3.  I have all new or relined cylinders, master cylinder and brake lines.  Most people like it, but some hate it and will, I'm sure, tell you why.

 

I did not get any opinions from anybody so I just went with what the brake cylinder kit instructions recommended. I figured the people who sold the kit knew more about it than I did.

[MCHinson]

4 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Don't forget to put white grease (not too much) on those areas where the side of the brake shoe rubs on the backing plate. That will save the wear on the backing plate piece and help the shoes glide in and out easier.

 

I will remember this tip when I go to reassemble them. The brake shoe lining appear to be about half of the original thickness, so I ordered some new ones and will have them here in a few days.  

[MCHinson]

This morning, I finished up a couple of small items.  The original voltage regulator gasket needed to be replaced and I don't seem to see where it is being reproduced.  Yesterday, I taped off the area where the voltage regulator gasket is supposed to be and applied black silicone gasket maker materal to the gasket area of the voltage regulator. This morning, I removed the masking tape and cleaned up the edges of the newly formed gasket and reassembled the voltage regulator. I also installed recently purchased stainless steel screws for the voltage regulator and then bagged up the voltage regulator and its hardware for eventual installation.

 

I recently obtained a small section of steel fuel line to enable me to take advantage of Brian DePouli's suggestion for the bypass valve fix. I removed the bypass valve, modified it and reinstalled it. I left the freeze plug in place to reduce the amount of coolant flow through the bypass valve opening but used the inch long section of fuel line to allow me to reassemble the rest of the bypass valve assembly and yet have the spring unable to be compressed, solving any potential future bypass valve issue. 

 

Next I carefully installed the positive battery cable cover as well as a correct reproduction starter terminal cover. I used some silicone lubricant spray to enable me to slide both of these reproduction rubber items onto the battery cable, avoiding the possibility of tearing the rubber pieces.   

 

Next, I cleaned up and painted the heater hose support.

 

Next I drained the transmission fluid and pulled the transmission cover for inspection. The spring that is depressed by the transmission cover really likes to pop out and fall into the transmission. I got a bit of experience using a nametag magnetic backing secured to the end of a small flexible battery operated light with a couple of rubber bands to fish that spring out of the transmission. I also notice that I seem to be missing one of these springs. I assume it got lost during an earlier transmission cover removal, possibly as I was removing the body from the chassis in the driveway. I located it in a diagram in my parts manual. The manual identified it as part number 4.311, SPRING, Shifter Yoke Poppet. There are two used per car as shown in the diagram so I will pick up another identical spring tomorrow from my local hardware store and carefully try to remove the transmission cover and put it back with both springs in place, hopefully without any more magnetic fishing trips needed. Other than the missing spring, the transmission appears to be in good shape. 

 

Later this afternoon, I was able to reassemble the heater hose support with a new stainless steel machine screw and install it on the engine.    

[MCHinson]

This morning, I was hoping to get started on the front end. I had reviewed Gary Wheeler's recent AACA Discussion Forum story about his 1937 Special restoration so I could follow his method of disassembly. Unfortunately, I realized that my jack stands were not really tall enough to do that job. I decided to accomplish something so I disassembled the horn relay. I used a wire wheel on my grinder to remove the rust from the horn relay case and all of ther terminals, as well as the related hardware. After that, I was able to paint the case black and coat the other parts with a matte clear enamel to protect it from rusting again. 

 

After lunch, with set of larger borrowed jack stands, I disassembled the driver's side of the front end. I removed the sway bar and then removed the coil spring and related hardware. I topped off the shock fluid and tested the shock. The shock appears to be in good shape. As long as it does not develop any leaks, I think I will leave it alone and hope for the best, instead of removing it and sending it out for rebuilding. If it develops a leak or other issue, then it will be removed. I replaced the top rubber bumper and have the replacement lower rubber bumper ready to install upon reassembly.

 

I cleaned up the coil spring and related parts and applied a coat of paint. Later, a friend who works at an alignment shop stopped by. After his inspection, he deemed the remaining front end parts to need no further disassembly. He suggested that I reassemble it, grease it well, and drive it.  The threads on some of the bolts that hold the coil assembly together were not in perfect condition. I stopped by my local hardware store and picked up some nice grade 8 replacement bolts and nuts. 

 

Before calling it a day, I reassembled the horn relay and bagged it up for later installation.

[MCHinson]

I had too many other things happening today to get any time to do anything photo worthy with the Buick project today. I also have a Veteran's Day parade to attend tomorrow morning so I hope to get a chance to work on the Buick some more tomorrow afternoon. 

[MCHinson]

I was finally able to get a little bit of time to work on the Buick today. First, I reassembled the driver's side front end. Using a jack, I was able to get the spring assembly almost back together. After I got it close, I was able to use a ratchet strap to compress the spring enough to enable me to insert the bolts and start the nuts on the bolts on one end. I then moved the strap to the other end of the assembly and compressed the spring enough to get the other two bolts in the assembly. I then finished tightening the bolts. Then I installed the driver's side antisway bar links.

 

Next, I installed the replacement spring in place of the missing one in the top of the transmission and installed the gear shifter and top on the transmission. I then disassembled the right front spring assembly using the hydraulic jack like I did on the driver's side. Everything was going fine up to that point. After disassembly of the passenger side of the front end, I discovered that there is a problem with the passenger side front shock. It seems to have very limited movement before it sticks. I guess I need to plan to remove that one for rebuilding soon.

[MCHinson]

This morning, I removed the right front shock since it needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I cleaned up the other right side front end parts and applied a coat of paint. On this spring, just like the other front spting, there was some original red paint on the coils near the top of the spring. I am assuming this was a marking system to indicate which series spring it is. As I did on the left side, I did not totally paint over the red paint, so the next restorer will be able to see that marking as well.  I then installed new brake shoes on the left front wheel. The new brake shoe linings are not exactly the same length as the ones that I am replacing, but I am sure they will be fine. I cleaned up the grease fittings and greased the left side front suspension components. I did not install the grease cap over the spindle yet, because I need to get some cotter pins to install on the wheels. Somehow, neither of the front wheel nuts had cotter pins in them when I first opened them up. 

 

I was on a roll but the right front shock is certainly going to delay my suspension work. Maybe I will buy a set of brake spring pliers while I am waiting for the shock. That would certainly make the rest of this job easier. 

[MCHinson]

This morning, I finished off the left front spindle by installing a cotter pin and the grease cap. I then decided to install the new rear shocks. Removal of the original shocks was easy. The bottom of the shock attaches with a nut. Installing the bottom end of the new shock was also easy, as the nut naturally compresses the rubber bushings without any problem. The top of the shock slides onto a post. You have to compress the rubber bushings and slide a "C" clip onto the post. I assume there is some sort of tool made to do this job but I don't have one. 

 

After a bit of thought, I started on the passenger side. I decided to use a large C Clamp with a one inch impact socket to compress the bushings enough to install the "C" clip. I did this by placing the "C" clip under the socket on one side of the post and a large washer on the other side to keep it fairly level. After compressing the bushing with the C Clamp, I could then tap the "C" clip into place. 

 

The other side had a different style washer, with a recess to accept a smaller "C" clip. When I tried to use the same technique, the smaller "C" clip bent. I then straightened out the "C" clip to its original size and used a slightly modified technique. I was able to use two smaller sockets to compress the outside of the large washer and then I had enough clearance to tap the smaller "C" clip into place. Hopefully the photos and this description will enable others to do this job in the future. 

[38Buick 80C]

Put a little dab of silcone gasket material over the c-clip to help keep it in place. Mine popped off in the trailer on the way home from Hershey.

[MCHinson]

1 hour ago, 38Buick 80C said:

Put a little dab of silcone gasket material over the c-clip to help keep it in place. Mine popped off in the trailer on the way home from Hershey.

 

I was sort of thinking that those clips should probably be replaced with new ones. I think that one of them is 79 years old. They don't feel like they are quite up the the general quality of everything else about how the car was manufactured. Your suggestion sounds like a viable alternative. There is not really much lateral pressure on it. Thanks. 

[MCHinson]

This morning, I applied a liberal coating of black silicone gasket material on the two rear shock "C" clips to make sure they stay in place. Then I cleaned up the exhaust manifold gasket washers and installed them along with new exhaust manifold studs and nuts. For some strange reason, the catalog that I ordered the studs and nuts from indicated that there are 9 per car, which I did not question at the time. It turns out that there are actually 10 needed. I will either clean up the best original one and use it, or order another stud and nut in the near future. Next I cleaned up and painted the mounting bolts for the right front shock, the brake master cylinder mounting bolts, and some other hardware. I then painted the front anti sway bar link hardware.  I then filled the transmission with MasterPro GL-4 Gear Oil.

 

I have not shipped off the right front shock for rebuilding because I recently found an ebay auction for a pair of rebuilt front shocks that will fit this car. The auction ended tonight. I was successful in buying the pair of rebuilt shocks for quite a bit less than the price to rebuild a single shock. It looks like they were rebuilt years ago and have been on a shelf for a long time. Hopefully, they will still be OK. if not, I will have another set of rebuildable cores. I will anxiously await thier arrival, as well as a few more parts that I hope to receive soon. The chassis portion of the project will soon be winding down. Hopefully I will find a nice 1938 Model 61 or Model 41 body in good condition soon. Dave Tacheny is looking for one, but if anybody else has any leads on one, please let me know.     

[MCHinson]

This morning, I decided to get started on the rear brakes. I jacked up the rear of the car, put it up on jack stands and removed the rear wheels. I then removed the right rear hub. The first photo shows it immediately after removing the hub. The second one shows it after blowing the top layer of dust and cobwebs off. The next few show a few different views as I disassembled the internal components. After disassembly of the right side, I did the same on the left side. I guess my decision to use new springs instead of reusing all of the old springs was the right one. As soon as I removed the left hub, I spotted a broken spring on the adjuster mechanism. 

 

I remove both wheel cylinders. Externally, the rear wheel cylinders look like they have less corrosion than the front ones had.  I left the wheel cylinders soaking in solvent until tomorrow. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to rebuild the wheel cylinders. I also cleaned up the brake adjuster hardware. I will not be able to totally finish the rear brake job until I decide how to deal with the rear emergency brake cable. I might be able to find a cable and some crimp on ends locally and and rebuild it myself. If not, I will need to order a reproduction rear emergency brake cable. 

[MCHinson]

I had a only had a short time to work on the Buick this morning. I had no problem driving the pistons out of the wheel cylinders after they had soaked in solvent overnight. I cleaned up the pistons and honed the wheel cylinders. The toughest thing to do was to break the bleeder screws free on the wheel cylinders. Since the heads of the bleeder screws were a bit worn, I had to resort ot vice grips to get the bleeder screws to break free.  After I got them started, they came out with no problem. I cleaned up the adjusters with the grinder wire wheel. I have several things that I have to do tomorrow, so hopefully, I will have some time to reassemble and install the rear brake whieel cylinders tomorrow. 

[MCHinson]

Today I attended out local Cape Fear Chapter of AACA's Model T Driving School. While I have driven many Model A Ford's over the years, I had never driven a Model T Ford before today. We had a good group for the class with several Instructors, each with a Model T so we could all get a chance to drive one of the Model T's. I am glad that I finally had a chance to drive one, but I think I will stick with my 1937 and 1938 Buicks for most of my antique car driving. After the class, I drove my 1937 Century to lunch. 

 

This afternoon, the mailman surprised me with my resleeved Brake Master Cylinder. I cleaned it up and reassembled it with a rebuild kit. I had a heck of a time installing the clip that holds the master cylinder assembly together. After a few attempts to install all of the parts, push the plunger down and hold it all together enough to install the clip without success, I decided to mount my 8 inch "C" clamp in my vice so I could use the "C" clamp to hold the assembly together against the force of the spring while I installed the clip to hold it all together. I then painted the master cylinder. 

 

I assembled the rear wheel cylinders and left the master cylinder for the paint to dry. I decided to wash my 1937 Century since I have managed to get quite a bit of dust on it recently while cleaning  up 1938 parts in the garage. For your viewing pleasure, I am posting a couple of photos of the Century after I washed it and before the sun went down. Later I bench bled and installed the master cylinder. I then drove the 1937 Century to dinner. 

[Bloo]

Looking good!

 

Who sleeved your master cylinder?

 

 

[MCHinson]

I sent it to CARS, Inc. Apparently they sublet the job to Apple Hydraulics, since that was the return address on the shipping label. 

[Gary W]

I notice the master cylinder bolts to your transmission, and has a flexible hose outlet.  My '37 has the master cylinder bolted to the frame and steel tubing outlet.

Is that a '37 to '38 change or a Special vs. Century difference?

 

Really looks great!  They do nice work

 

Great progress!

Gary

[MCHinson]

I think that is a 1937 to 1938 change. 

[MCHinson]

This morning, I cleaned up the two rear brake backing plates and installed the rebuilt rear brake wheel cylinders, the new brake shoes and springs on both the left rear and the right rear. I did not take many photos. I could not finish the job by installing the rear hubs because I had not solved the rear emergency brake cable issue. I still have not purchased a set of brake spring pliers and now, I only have one more set of brake springs to install, so I might as well forget about the pliers. I did manage to bang up my left elbow and draw a bit of blood as a result of my pliers slipping off of one of the springs on the left rear wheel, so those of you who are following along should know that you can the job without the right tools but buying the right tools would probably be a smarter choice.

 

Later today, I was able to rebuild my emergency rear brake cable thanks to cable and ends from my local hardware store. Tomorrow, I should be able to finish up the rear brakes. The mailman also delivered my recent ebay purchase front shocks. This should enable me to finish up the right front suspension soon.

[r1lark]

For removing and installing the brake springs, I like this type of tool:  https://mobiledistributorsupply.com/lis46750-lisle-46750-brake-spring-tool-lisle.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkPvb78bP1wIVhEZeCh2VUQjzEAQYAyABEgKY9_D_BwE#

 

The round end removes the spring easily from the post, and the straight end with the notch makes it easy to replace the spring over the post.