Steering wheel puller

[knobless]

Which type works best on 1933/34 cars???

 

[Curti]

What kind of car ?

[F&J]

1 hour ago, knobless said:

Which type works best on 1933/34 cars???

 

 

 

From my own many years tinkering with that era of mixed-makes.... there is "no" puller.

 

Later cars had two threaded holes under the horn button area to use a small puller.   I just did a 32 Hupp that had no holes, so I drilled/tapped two, and used a simple homemade puller I have used on many others:

^^^^ pic shows a odd shape chunk of think metal under the center screw, that protects the very thin-walled column threads from damage.  This wheel was very stuck, due to the key being wedged in the shaft keyway, but it worked.

 

There are pictures on AACA of a person who used very long 2x4's under the entire wheel, to use a huge puller.  I shudder to think that many wheels would crack when doing a pull like that. 

 

These early wheels never seem to be able to "pop right off" by putting the nut on loosely, and whacking with a hammer, with your knees holding upward pressure from underneath.  In all my years, this normally crushes those thin walled threads.  Not good to do,... hard to repair.

Edited May 27, 2017 by F&J (see edit history)

[PFitz]

As said, some steering wheels  from that era don't have bolt holes in the hub for a puller to grab with. Then there were pullers designed to fit over the steering wheel hub and pull against the back side of the hub as the threaded rod pushes against the steering wheel shaft. They sometimes need a set of split collars made to fit that steering wheel hub and steering column so that they don't damage the hub.  

 

First picture is of a Franklin factory steering wheel puller from the 1920's and 30's, with nylon split collars that I had to machine to fit those size columns.   This one is a Franklin factory listed shop tool. You can find others like to fit other makes of auto, on eBay.  

 

Oddly though,....  you need a modern style puller to get the Franklin engine cooling fans off, because in that instance they did provide the bolt holes for a puller - go figure.  Second picture.

 

Paul  

Edited May 27, 2017 by PFitz (see edit history)

[knobless]

Thanks for replies, I knew I would have to make up something due to the no holes, And I am sure this one will be no different stuck on!! Thanks again

[cheezestaak2000]

and then there's the tried and true method, leave the nut on by a couple of threads, apply massive pressure with both knees, and tap the end of the steering shaft with a brass hammer.

 

[John348]

2 hours ago, cheezestaak2000 said:

and then there's the tried and true method, leave the nut on by a couple of threads, apply massive pressure with both knees, and tap the end of the steering shaft with a brass hammer.

 

 

I don't know about that working,,,,,that method has been tried many times by many people, but I don't know how true it is, worth a shot but I never met anyone who said it worked, especially on a steering wheel that has been in place for over 80 years. I don't think it is physically possible to even try it on any early 30's car 

When I had my 31 Chevy a few years ago I borrowed a tool made by someone in my region and it worked perfectly. Ask around someone has to know someone who has something to help you out 

[F&J]

4 hours ago, PFitz said:

Oddly though,....  you need a modern style puller to get the Franklin engine cooling fans off, because in that instance they did provide the bolt holes for a puller - go figure.  Second picture.

The issue with that type of heavier duty puller, as well as the "combination harmonic damper/steering wheel puller" is that the lead screw is simply too fat, not allowing the two pull bolts to have room in these early wheels small horn button recesses.

[F&J]

14 minutes ago, John348 said:

I don't know about that working,,,,,that method has been tried many times by many people, but I don't know how true it is, worth a shot but I never met anyone who said it worked, especially on a steering wheel that has been in place for over 80 years. 

I have worked with many decades of cars/trucks as a trade for 50-ish years, so yes I have been successful a "couple" of times.  But ask me how many crushed threads I made, on the ones that did not come off   I soon learned what exact force of a hammer is the "STOP it! " point.  LOL      ....just as I know YOU realize how much you can go when working with an exhaust manifold bolt, or a nut on the weakened  3 studs on a SBC pipe flange on that manifold.  (takes years of breaking stuff to know, ...and then having to deal with the aftermath of each event)

Edited May 27, 2017 by F&J (see edit history)

[auburnseeker]

You can make a 2 part puller out of a 2 x6 or 2x8 in wood that will bolt together around the hub then use a bolt on the other side with nuts.  Before you split the piece of wood in half use a hole saw to drill the wood.  Thick plywood or multiple thick layers of plywood might work better as there would be less chance of splitting.  I used this method on my 36 Chrysler successfully.  Of course you need another piece of wood on top as well as bolts or rods connecting the 2 pieces of wood. 

Kind of hard to explain.  I bought a Snap on one I stumbled upon since and haven't needed it but wanted to have it incase. 

Edited May 28, 2017 by auburnseeker (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

I seem to remember Daphne have her steering wheel pulled by one Taylormade fabricated out of wood. See if you can find the pictures in Daphne's thread in the Dodge Brothers forum.

 

Update: post #618.

Edited May 28, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Curti]

There is a thread on this topic in the TECHNICAL section below, with pictures . Do a search.

[c49er]

The tools I use.....

[mike6024]

1 hour ago, c49er said:

 

If I come across a puller like that I might buy it.

[c49er]

 10 Ton Posi-Lok Puller with a Bearing Splitter....