JV Puleo Posted January 23, 2019 Author Share Posted January 23, 2019 I actually prefer bearing bronze. I only use brass on parts that are not bearings. Having set the mill up to run horizontally, I milled the slots for the vanes in the rotor. I'm using a 1/4 staggered tooth cutter here. It leaves a much smoother finish on the inside of the slot. Here's the rotor with the slots milled, turned 45-degrees to start on the flutes. I decided not to bother with the rotor with the holes at the base of the slots. It turned out to be a good deal more difficult to set up than I'd anticipated so I used the other blank and milled the slots the full depth as Spinnyhill suggested. Without taking the dividing head off the mill, I then reattached the vertical head to mill the flutes. These are partly cosmetic but the amount of oil that a pump like this moves is determined by the difference between the mass of the rotor and the hole it is running in. By reducing the mass of the rotor I should be increasing the oil flow. This is the finished product. I'm satisfied with it... though I still have to drill & thread holes for the set screws that will hold it in place. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 28, 2019 Author Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) I have some bits on order to finish the pump vanes but won't get them in time to do anything before I leave for my annual pilgrimage to the UK in about a week. So...as I try to get all my ducks in a row for the trip I made the oil filter housing. Some time ago I bought this oil "pre filter". The only part I wanted was the filter screen - the black anodized housing with purple ends is obviously not appropriate but they did understand filter screens in 1910 so I'm not averse to using one that is probably finer than what was available then. For the housing, I'm using a piece of brass tubing I actually bought to make the intake manifold before I discovered it was slightly too big. I'll thread both ends for caps. One cap will connect to the oil manifold and the other to the oil pump (which is what one of the banjo fittings is for). By using the dial indicator, I'm able to cut the threads on both ends to exactly the same depth. When I make the caps, they should work on either end. Edited January 29, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 29, 2019 Author Share Posted January 29, 2019 (edited) This is going to be one of the two caps for the oil filter housing. Bored out to what I thought was the minor diameter... I was actually about .015 small so it took longer than it should have to thread it. But, it came out just fine. I'm getting better at threading. In this case, both ends screw into the cap and the threads don't even have to be lapped. Unfortunately, I have to make the caps one-at-the-time in order to be certain that the threads are absolutely concentric with the hole. But, having done this a dozen times now it is definitely getting easier. Edited January 29, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KLF Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Hi Joe I've got a 3 blade cast aluminum fan with a built in hub. It's about 18 inch dia. The blades could easily be cut back if they're too long. I bought it years ago thinking it would work on my 12 Oakland but, you know...that wasn't the case. Here's some pictures. Maybe it will work for you Ken 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 That might work... I've sent you a PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 I threaded the 2nd cap... And then got on to making the ends. This is about twice as much brass bar as I really need but I don't have a good way of cutting or holding small pieces. The first step was to drill and ream a 5/8 hole in the center. One end will be threaded 3/4-16 and the other 1-20 but I needed to be able to hold them in the lathe to turn the diameters and thread them and I wanted the hole to be as large as it could be but smaller than the finished size. Then I cut a piece off... again, about twice as thick as it will be but otherwise it wouldn't grip well on the little expanding arbor. This is the end that will be threaded 1-20. Finished it has to be about 1/4" thick because a banjo bolt will be screwed into it. After it was threaded, I tried the cap on. These threads can be a tiny bit loose because I will lube them with soldering flux and solder the cap in place. A little extra space for the solder will not be wasted. This is what it looks like assembled. There is a lot of extra material here that will come off in the finishing steps. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi Joe, I am pleased to see that your threading has gone a lot better than the threading of the oil pump parts on my Humberette! I realised that I hadn't done any threading on my Myford lathe for a while and needed to read up about it again. My first problem was that my thread dial indicator wasn't turning. As it was a fine BSF 32 TPI thread I was machining I could not see that the seized dial indicator was driving the lathe apron forward. This confused me for some time before I 'twigged'.. After a few hours of trying to free off the thread dial, I gave up and left the thread dial indicator off the lathe. I then tried cutting the thread without the indicator by keeping the apron connected to the leadscrew, reversing the lathe and powering the lathe tool back after winding the cross slide away from the brass. After inspecting the cut it appeared that the thread pitch was about 64 TPI! Looking at the instructions for the gear cutting gearbox last night it seems that I have, in the past, reversed one of the gears that to obtain fine feeds. I had forgotten all about this. Hopefully, today I can try again and be more successful. To date I have made a few bits of scrap metal and wasted about a week! Looking at the last photo of yours - What is the razor blade for? The expanding mandrels you use, are they readily available? I have looked on eBay and the only ones that have found are a set available from India! Should I be searching using a different name for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 Until about a year ago I'd never used the threading dial. I did exactly what you are doing. I think that threading is one of those jobs that definitely gets easier the more you do it. The instruction plate attached to the apron of my lathe actually has an error in it that thoroughly confused me. It says "use any line for even numbers" when it should say "use any line for even numbers divisible by four". I was cutting 6 tpi and got a double start thread. I'd always wondered how those were made and managed to find out entirely by accident. The razor blade is just lying there. The wood background is the cover on my surface plate and it tends to attract little bits around the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Joe, thanks for the information. I have had another wasted day and a bit more scrap! I am going to take your advice and use some round bar to start with, and try just cutting some simple male threads first, rather than trying to cut the 32 TPI internal thread in the brass tube. Was there another name for the 'expanding arbour'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 1 hour ago, Mike Macartney said: Was there another name for the 'expanding arbour'? Expanding collet, I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) Expanding collets are slightly different but work in about the same way. I'll photograph the set of arbors and some collets to show the difference. Threading brass tube can be a headache. The alloy used for making tubing is not as easily machined as the "free machining" C360 brass. The extremely fine threads were used because they are shallow, an important point when working with tubing. Edited February 1, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 1, 2019 Author Share Posted February 1, 2019 (edited) The expanding arbors are on the right. The 1" and bigger sizes are intended to be held in a 1" collet. On the left are two expanding collets. This is the cap end for the side that will hold a spring to push the filter screen. Here are the two caps. The spring is centered by the projection. I made a trip to the local hardware store to see if I could find a spring that will work - without any luck so I picked a spring from McMaster Carr and turned the OD of the projection to fit.. And, I made a holding fixture for the caps so I can machine them. Ordinarily, I'd make this out of steel but it is only going to be used twice but this time I got lazy. Turned down and threaded to receive the caps. I will knurl these caps and knurling puts a tremendous amount of pressure on the workpiece so I have to be able to grip it in my big chuck. Edited February 1, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 1 hour ago, JV Puleo said: I bought me a set. Nice for the price. Can't wait to use them. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Thanks for the details of the expanding arbors. I contacted the 'Breakheart Tool Company' to see if they have a UK agent. Unfortunately, they don't, and the shipping costs are more than the cost of the arbors! I sorted the problem with the screw threading. Basically, I was being an idiot! (or perhaps a senior moment) It took Jane to sort out what I was doing wrong. I will explain what I did wrong on my next Humberette post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 You might try RDG TOOLS. I think they are in Yorkshire. I bought some involute cutters from them and their service was outstanding. Actually, the shipping was less than the VAT so I actually got them for less than a UK resident would have to pay (which don't think is very fair, but I don't make the laws). j Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 3, 2019 Author Share Posted February 3, 2019 (edited) The next step was to solder the ends into the caps. I do this on a little propane camping stove. The idea it to heat everything up together so the temperature is uniform and the solder will flow into the threads. Then back to the lathe to face off the ends and turn the finished outside diameter. With that done, I knurled the cap. I also bored the center hole and threaded it 1"-20. This is the cap that will be attached to one of the banjo fittings so the top plate has to be unusually thick to receive the threads of the banjo bolt. None of that will show from the outside. I lapped the top of the cap to make sure it is perfectly flat and I'll use fiber washers between both surfaces of the banjo fitting. I still have to put in the grooves for a hook spanner so they can be tightened a bit more than hand-tight when I assemble the pieces. You can just make out the solder line between the two pieces ... but I'm not worried about that. While I was doing this one of my friends was working on something he's making ... he's one of my two local friends that know old cars and likes to kid me about my sometimes "over the top" productions. Even he agreed that you'd never see the solder line unless you knew where to look for it. Edited February 3, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 Looks great Joe! I was soldering too.... but mine wasn't as fun - broken fitting in the basement which left about 6" of water. T. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Hello Joe, How much solder bleed through did you get on your threads (on the inside)? What a nice job you have done! Did you use silver solder? If yes, what flavor of silver solder did you use? Now Terry, what you suggest for solder practice is not fun even a little bit! That flood issue is something that anyone with a basement absolutely dreads! Are you back together or just getting started? Do you use your basement as living space or as storage? Of course, there is always more to the story when it comes to catastrophes. Good luck in anyway or form, I feel your pain! Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 I used ordinary 50/50 lead solder. I don't think something like this needs the strength of silver solder and the lead stuff is so much easier to work with. In this case, I purposely made the threads a little loose in order to give the solder room to flow. I'm not certain that was the right thing to do... at least I should not have done it exactly as I did. By soldering from the outside of the cap I got some run-through to the inside. In both cases, more than I wanted so I flipped the cap over and heated it again so that the solder flowed down. Were I to do it again, I would solder from the inside since run-through to the surface I am going to machine is meaningless. Both caps will come out fine but I'm learning a technique as I do them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Harper Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 All taken care of! I had to re-install the water meter. One of the fittings on the pipe that comes in from the street service failed. Most of the water went to one end of the basement Fortunately no damage to speak of we keep the food storage, pellets etc. all up on pallets. Joys of a 125 year old home! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 Mine is 300 years old...but I have to admit that a lot of it, especially the plumbing, is a lot newer! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) Well I'll be!!! I thought I lived in an old home, but out of us three, I live in the new home as my home is only 120 years young! I will post a front shot of my home as it is now. But if you can conjure up in your mind this picture; in 1983 a dam broke up river of us about 15 miles. Now as you look at the front of my house, imagine water up to and just lapping at the top of my front door threshold. Water was about 4' high around my house. I didn't have a good 1983, at all! I was just lucky that my great-grand-dad had lived here since the 1860's and had survived several dam breaks so when he built this house he put it up on a full standing foundation, unusual in our area as most early homes were flat on the ground. In our small town, we now only have two old homes standing, mine and one other up the street, the flood of '83 destroyed 22 homes total. It was several years before we got back to some form of normality in my little town. OK, Joe, sorry to detract from the talk of solder and brass and threads, (my story was brought back to my memory by Terry's water issue). Back to the rebuilding of the Mitchell. Al Edited February 4, 2019 by alsfarms spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) I like it... and everything is relative. A good friend of mine lives in Salt Lake City. Years ago he was asked to donate to a fund to save a local "historic" home... OK he said, "when was it built?" "1915" was the answer... his response was: "1915! practically every house in my neighborhood was that old or a lot older!" Here's mine, taken last summer when a dead ash tree had just fallen over, missing the house by inches. I was in the middle of installing the windows I'd made which is why the last two on the right are "blank" - I hadn't gotten to those when the tree came down. Edited February 4, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Macartney Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 You might try RDG TOOLS. Thank you Joe. I will give them a try. Your house looks very interesting and unusual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Joe, is the design of your house some form of a "Dutch" style? Seems that I have seen or heard reference to your roof style as something "Dutch", maybe I am dreaming? Nice old home you have. I bet it could tell more stories than the Mitchell you are working on. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 13 hours ago, alsfarms said: Well I'll be!!! I thought I lived in an old home, but out of us three, I live in the new home as my home is only 120 years young! I will post a front shot of my home as it is now. But if you can conjure up in your mind this picture; in 1983 a dam broke up river of us about 15 miles. Now as you look at the front of my house, imagine water up to and just lapping at the top of my front door threshold. Water was about 4' high around my house. I didn't have a good 1983, at all! I was just lucky that my great-grand-dad had lived here since the 1860's and had survived several dam breaks so when he built this house he put it up on a full standing foundation, unusual in our area as most early homes were flat on the ground. In our small town, we now only have two old homes standing, mine and one other up the street, the flood of '83 destroyed 22 homes total. It was several years before we got back to some form of normality in my little town. OK, Joe, sorry to detract from the talk of solder and brass and threads, (my story was brought back to my memory by Terry's water issue). Back to the rebuilding of the Mitchell. Al You got all that water but look at that perfect lawn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 It's called a gambrel roof and was very common here in New England in the 18th century. I suspect the Dutch used it to and it may be associated with them in a popular American context but it is actually English in New England. Only the lower part of the first floor dates from 1703. The right side of the house is an addition done, I believe, in 1752. I built the roof and the 2nd floor. It was very difficult to replicate the proper angles for the roof and meet the building code which required 8' ceilings. Downstairs, the clearance under the beams in the kitchen and dining room is only about 6'3". Officially, it is the Joseph Olney House. Olney was a prominent name around here in the 18th century. One of RI's Revolutionary War heroes was Capt. Stephen Olney who was, I think, a nephew of Joseph. Stephen Olney's house is also still standing and on the same road although the name of my part of the road was changed in the late 30s. It's now Ridge Road but my deed says it is Smithfield Road. This followed the English practice of naming a road for the town it went to... in this case Smithfield which was one of the 5 towns that originally made up RI. The road dates from the 1670s which is why the house is so close to it. It has been widened and, of course, there wasn't much traffic in the early 18th-century. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 42 minutes ago, alsfarms said: Joe, is the design of your house some form of a "Dutch" style? Seems that I have seen or heard reference to your roof style as something "Dutch", maybe I am dreaming? Nice old home you have. I bet it could tell more stories than the Mitchell you are working on. Al That style of home is popular here in the older villages of New England. My town, Dartmouth, was incorporated in 1664 and there are still a few homes like that and a fair amount of Quaker meeting houses all spread out in town. I have heard houses of that style called “garrison gambrels” , just gambrels, or barn roofs. I believe the true garrison gambrel homes have at least a story and a half side wall before the roof starts. Joe’s house just screams old New England when I look at it. My sisters house in town is well over 200 years old but is the more traditional two story farm house type. Lots of granite foundations around here. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) A garrison house has an overhanging 2nd floor. It's an early 17th-century style. They get the name because in each village one house would be designated the "garrison house". It often had thick walls and the overhang. When attacked, the local people would retreat to the garrison house. The overhang allowed the defenders to fire down at the doors and windows... or such is the lore associated with it. Actually, overhanging 2nd and 3rd stories were common in Europe at the time so I'm not all that convinced. There are a few remaining true garrison houses. One I'm familiar with looks quite conventional but the walls are about 8" thick and made of hewn logs. They would be impossible to penetrate with the weapons available in the 17th century. If you are curious about what NE was like in the period just before my house was built, look up King Philips War... Edit... I think Dartmouth was one of the towns abandoned during King Philips War. Smithfield was... the oldest houses all post-date the war when the town was effectively wiped out. Mine is the 2nd or 3rd oldest house in town. The oldest house is just down the street from me and is the headquarters of the local historical society. Like mine, only part of it is very early. Edited February 4, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 This is a very interesting thread you have us on Joe. I do thoroughly enjoy antique automobiles, but also history. Of course old machinery and houses are also a serious interest for me. From a historical aspect, I do have one family line that is 16th century American and originated in the general area of New Jersey, Rhode Island and the other near surrounding states. That family line is western European being German, Belgian and Dutch. "Conk" is that family name. I still have many long distance relatives in that area. I will post a picture of probably the oldest structure in my home town. It was originally the abode of my double great-grand-dad (father of the builder of my home). Back in the 1860's-70's, when my town was settled, my family like most other families owned near a city block for a home site and that was so with my double great grand dad. Property holdings were broken up as the family evolved and now I own the original home site and in the back of my 1 acre lot still stands the original log home that my family lived in until a newer adobe home was constructed, (now long gone) then the next home is my 1899 home. It must have been a labor of hard work to build the log cabin as the nearest trees and mountain range to get trees was 25 miles away. The log cabin originally had an upper floor and loft to serve a a sleeping area for children, (roof and loft was modified in the 1920's). My garden surrounds this log structure and we can grow some great tomatoes! I now use the log cabin as storage for several car projects parts. It is my desire to renovate and make useful again, this log cabin, specific to the era that it was first built. You guys, on the east coast, have the rich early Colonial history. We in the West only have the "Wild West" (newer heritage from the mid 1800's). This chat is a fun diversion while we get back up to steam on the car stuff. Al 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) New England has such great history, and it’s no longer being taught. Along with King Phillips War, we also had the second American Revolution........Shey’s Rebellion. You wonder why we have a Bill of Rights? And a Second Amendment? Read about how the American Government was pointing heavy artillary and several regiments of infantry at the locals that were being taxed into poverty............ And yes, they open fire on the people with cannon.......killing and wounding the locals. Google it and take your time, it’s local history for me, and we still drive on some of the old wagon roads used during the rebellion. Edited February 4, 2019 by edinmass (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 I find the gambrel roof form interesting. I will have to look up the structural form. I am amazed at the longevity of untreated timber cladding there. It lasts maybe 20-30 years here. The UV destroys the oil in the timber and lichen, bacteria and mould take over. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 That isn't much different from the original form of my house which was two rooms with a central chimney and a sleeping loft above. When I was tearing the house apart I found the remnants of the original stairs to the loft - just a hole in the attic floor. There are very few surviving common homes from the early 18th century. Many were built without foundations. The original settlers, coming from England, were not aware of how much the ground moves when it freezes. Ultimately, fieldstone foundations were built. If there is one item we have plenty of, it's rocks. The only original fireplace in my house is in the cellar. It's huge, as they did most of the cooking there. It was cooler in the summer and easier to keep warm in the winter. The outside walls were simply planks with clapboards on the outside and lime plaster on the inside. They were, at best, about 2" thick. Winter must have been brutal. I suspect that it was necessary to keep a fire burning nearly all the time but, they were accustomed to a different time and I doubt they gave much thought to it. As an interesting aside...the word "lumber" actually means "junk" or "trash". That is how it is used in Britain to this day. We use it for wood because, in clearing fields around here, they would get huge piles of tree trunks and branches... Your log cabin was built in essentially the same manner as an early garrison house except that the logs would have been finished on the outside and probably covered with clapboard sheathing. The earliest settlers here rarely built log homes. I don't know why but the common English timber frame with wattle & daub filling the spaces was more common. It wasn't suitable for the climate and I suspect this type of construction persisted because of the extreme amount of labor it took to cut planks from logs. Sawmills were probably the first "industrial" establishments in New England. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said: I find the gambrel roof form interesting. I will have to look up the structural form. I am amazed at the longevity of untreated timber cladding there. It lasts maybe 20-30 years here. The UV destroys the oil in the timber and lichen, bacteria and mould take over. It is red cedar, a common tree around here and much more so then. It is also soft and easy to work as well as being extremely rot-proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, edinmass said: New England has such great history, and it’s no longer being taught. Along with King Phillips War, we also had the second American Revolution........Shey’s Rebellion. You wonder why we have a Bill of Rights? And a Second Amendment? Read about how the American Government was pointing heavy artillary and several regiments of infantry at the locals that were being taxed into poverty............ And yes, they open fire on the people with cannon.......killing and wounding the locals. Google it and take your time, it’s local history for me, and we still drive on some of the old wagon roads used during the rebellion. The central room of the tavern where Daniel Shay met with his neighbors was sold to a British Antiques dealer in the 1950s. It was reassembled in the American Museum near Bath. https://americanmuseum.org/about-the-museum/history/ Edited February 4, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 5 hours ago, JV Puleo said: A garrison house has an overhanging 2nd floor. It's an early 17th-century style. They get the name because in each village one house would be designated the "garrison house". It often had thick walls and the overhang. When attacked, the local people would retreat to the garrison house. The overhang allowed the defenders to fire down at the doors and windows... or such is the lore associated with it. Actually, overhanging 2nd and 3rd stories were common in Europe at the time so I'm not all that convinced. There are a few remaining true garrison houses. One I'm familiar with looks quite conventional but the walls are about 8" thick and made of hewn logs. They would be impossible to penetrate with the weapons available in the 17th century. If you are curious about what NE was like in the period just before my house was built, look up King Philips War... Edit... I think Dartmouth was one of the towns abandoned during King Philips War. Smithfield was... the oldest houses all post-date the war when the town was effectively wiped out. Mine is the 2nd or 3rd oldest house in town. The oldest house is just down the street from me and is the headquarters of the local historical society. Like mine, only part of it is very early. Joe, Dartmouth actually still has the remnants of a fort or garrison where people sought refuge during the king Phillip war. They just recently had an archeologist excavate it. It was called the Russel garrison, though it was really just a homestead and not originally fortified, and is now on the national register of historical sites. During the KPW, there were only about 30 homesteads in Dartmouth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) Ok, this conversation is wetting my history whistle. It would be nice to meet you all at a local cafe, sit around the table all evening talking history of the area and US, then talk history of Pierce-Arrow (Buffalo area) Locomobile, (Bridgeport area) Mercer (Trenton area) then I guess we could also talk about all those manufacturers that chose to cluster together on the western frontier (Detroit area). I am sure that I could learn a bunch more than I was taught in US history! I have plenty of hints to scrounge around on Google and learn some less known history. Joe, my wife likes the "Salt Box" design that also is a part early American architecture. The Salt Box was probably a design that was brought about as families needed more room. They would add the lean-to portion on the back side making the shape it is known for. Edited February 4, 2019 by alsfarms (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Chistech, you complimented me on my lawn. Thanks! Here in the arid west, having a lawn is a labor of love, which I am willing to invest. Our annual rainfall hovers around 7". As a result we have to water regularly or no lawn at all, that includes shade trees and any thing else we grow either at the house or on the farm. No water, no anything! I get envious of the east where everything is green and things simply grow without encouragement. But all that green has a price, more humidity and plenty of little biting "no-see-ums". I guess, I like visiting the east but am OK being a westerner. Al 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Shays Rebellion: about high taxes in MA. Well, some things never change! Love the area, hate the politics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 4, 2019 Author Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) In between all this history stuff, I did get to work on the 2nd cap. The knurl came out a little better this time. This one is drilled and threaded 3/4-16. It will be the that connects to the oil manifold. The two caps are almost done. All that remains is to cut the grooves for a hook spanner. The idea is to tighten them by hand and then give it a final nudge with the spanner just to make sure they are tight. The material for the banjo bolt and the vanes also came in but I'm leaving for the UK tomorrow afternoon and I'm not sure I'll even come into the shop. The weather is unseasonably warm so I may take the opportunity to clean the house up a bit... it's always a mess but I'd rather come back to less mess. I'm pleased with these. They are a little heavy but beggars can't be choosers. By pure dumb luck, they fit in the appropriate space perfectly. I'd like to take credit for planning it that way but can't... Edited February 4, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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