Media blasting

[Steve Braverman]

I am looking to have the body of my dad's '34 Chevy panel truck stripped. The 40+ year old lacquer job is peeling badly. Several people have recommended soda blasting. Today I spoke to a local soda blaster, and he was less than convincing. He didn't seem too enthusiastic about working on the truck, and he wanted $1000 to do the job. Next I spoke to a media blaster who uses crushed walnut shells. Of course he tried to sell me on how soda blasting was no good, and his method was the way to go. He wants $1500.

I'm thinking about just buying a case of aircraft paint remover and doing it myself. Thoughts?

[Restorer32]

If you brought the truck to us for restoration we would strip as much as possible using paint remover and razor blades from the local hardware store followed up by a 3" disc sander, grit depending on condition of the metal. We have found little if any difference between cheap stripper and expensive stripper. All work, all are a mess. We would then possibly blast the door jambs, edges of the fenders, etc using fine blasting sand. Bear in mind that neither soda nor walnut shells nor plastic media have any effect whatsoever on rust. We would never touch those large flat side panels with any sort of blasting.

[Bhigdog]

What Restorer 32 said. All I would add is to use the stripper out side and I would still wear a good respirator..........................Bob

[Curti]

Personally, I have found a big difference in the the Aircraft paint remover in the blue can vs the 'green' paint remover found at the local big box store. Other than that, I completely agree with Restorer32. Buy a five gallon can of lacquer thinner at the local auto body supply, it will aid in cleaning up the mess.

[whtbaron]

If you do use sandblasting around some of the edges or badly rusted spots, make sure you use fine grit sand. Coarse grits can warp sheet metal much faster than you would normally think possible, even from behind. We used to be able to buy lacquer removing solvent which was just a very strong lacquer thinner that would also aid in cleanup. Not an issue on 34's, but I once stripped a 70's Corvette and found out the stripper makes the large plastic panel around the tail lights very soft to the point that it could collapse and warp. Just a little warning for people reading this thread that might be working on newer classics.

[39BuickEight]

We used Black Beauty fine grit blasting media and it worked wonderfully on all parts of my car. It's readily available at United Rentals if you have one of those around locally. I'm sure various codes can affect what you actually do. Luckily where I work on my car that is not an issue. Be safe!

[Luv2Wrench]

What Restorer32 said "We would never touch those large flat side panels with any sort of blasting."

I know it isn't you doing the work, and the guy that is doing the work has a list of 10 reasons why it will not warp the panels... but if it does warp the panels, is this guy going to get you a new truck? Soda blasting can work without warping but it has other real problems associated with it. Also, contrary to popular belief, it really isn't the heat that causes the warping (though it certainly can), it is the pounding action of the media acting like thousands of little body hammers that every so slightly stretch the metal. Since the panels on your truck are fixed on each end, the stretching will have no where to go and it will warp. There are many areas where the slight stretching done my a competent media blaster will not be a problem... but the sides of that truck is not one of those areas.

[Bill Harmatuk]

I just never goy my head around.... Sand blasting with salt. ( soda ). Nope!!

Stripper and a massage, with a DA, works good for me.

Bill H

[Mark Shaw]

Aircraft Stripper is messy & nasty stuff, but it works without harm to the metal.

I used coarse metal scrubs (for pots & pans) to remove the harder to get to areas...

Wear rubber gloves and disposable overalls with a good chemical rated mask.

Do this outside over a disposable tarp too!

[old car fan]

We will never use soda again.Its salt,and to delute it out of all the nooks and crevices ,almost imposible.It does a fine job,but very labor intensive after the fact.

[MochetVelo]

I doubt you'll need a heavy-duty stripper since your car has a lacquer finish. I like Citri-Strip, which you can get at Ace or Home Depot. It has no Methylene Chloride, and you can strip indoors. Let it sit on the panels for several hours, even overnight. You can cover it with plastic wrap or the like to slow evaporation. Then just push the finish off with a dulled metal or a plastic putty knife. Second coat, use 2/0 steel wool or Scotch-Brite pads. Finally, use burlap to remove the last paint traces and clean off residue with mineral spirits.

Phil

[HarryJ]

Steve, be very careful when sandblasting sheet metal as it can cause it to warp up; due to the fact you are heating only a small area as you strip it. Mr. Badwrench (me) learned the hard way.