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It's raining '22 Buicks!


Dwight Romberger

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If you have been following my Michigan to Hershey thread, you know the '22 buick from Michigan I wanted to buy to make a speedster was sold. Imagine my surprise when an astonishingly similar car showed up for sale in New York State! Moreover, both had titles! Here are pictures of each car:

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If you figured it out, you are smarter than I am, at least until the owner of the car in New York said it had a Michigan title!

I am picking it up on Thursday.

Here are some more pictures:

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(You just can't fake that patina!)

This last one I uploaded by mistake. You don't have to look at if you don't want to.

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Edited by Dwight Romberger (see edit history)
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Brian,

Cool, but I am going for something with a little less motor. My plan is to build a '22 speedster like one the Buick design team might have built when no one was watching! Like what some did with this 1917 "Studebaker."

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Although, my neighbor thinks it has to have a straight 8, and he is the one with the 4 post lift!

Edited by Dwight Romberger
I am a poor speeler. (see edit history)
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I always chuckle when I see something advertised as a "barn find." As it turns out, this one really was. A Michigan family put it in their barn in 1959, and it has been there until now when the farm is being sold.

Even so, it's probably more of a "falling down shed find." I can't imagine a farmer wasting valuable barn space on a "junk" car.

Edited by Dwight Romberger (see edit history)
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That roadster looks pretty complete, would it deserve a new rear body section, and be restored as a roadster ?? Or is the wood all rotted away? Or, my memory is 'jingling' didn' t Dodge use all steel body construction? or was that in a later year ??

Glad you got the car, and thanks for the additional photos.. Is the engine stuck ?? It would be fun to just get it running as is.. if that is possible.

Good luck with your 'new' project.

Greg L

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Greg,

Although it was advertised as a roadster, it looks like it is a cut down touring. The seller(s) say the wood is good, but I won't know until tomorrow. Everything appears to be there (except the rear of the body),and the seller(s) say the motors turns over. new bodyis an option I will leave open. I do like touring cars of that period. Right now it is destined to be a "period correct" speedster. Within reason, I will onlymodify the body. Nothing that can't be reversed if the world suddenly starts turning the other way.

Dwight

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The forum connection worked! Dwight and I met for lunch. Now I'm not sure if I wanted that car or just want to spend some money. Its a sickness.

No one drove a John Deere into the parking lot or walked in obviously right from doin chores so the food was good.

I'm sure there was head turning as people drove by the parking lot:

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That roadster looks pretty complete, would it deserve a new rear body section, and be restored as a roadster ?? Or is the wood all rotted away? Or, my memory is 'jingling' didn' t Dodge use all steel body construction? or was that in a later year ??

Glad you got the car, and thanks for the additional photos.. Is the engine stuck ?? It would be fun to just get it running as is.. if that is possible.

Good luck with your 'new' project.

Greg L

Why a Dodge body on a Buick??? And Speaking of Old Rip, I'm only about 8 Miles from the Bridge, and can often see a view of the Catskill mountians just several miles from here. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the posts and comments.

I made it home last night without incident. At least until my wife say the car!

She is looking for a 12-step program for me.

"Hi. I am Dwight"

"Hi Dwight"

"It's been 18 hours since I purchased my last car."

I am expecting an intervention at any time.

I am piecing together the car's history. I intend to find out as much as I can. So far, it looks like it was put in a Michigan barn in the 40's by the original owner. Sold at an estate sale in 1995, and trailered to an indoor storage facility in the same town. This year, owner #2 lost the storage space and decided to sell it. A guy in New York State bought it last week, trailered it home and his wife saw the car. I bought it yesterday. 14,854 original miles. Everything (except the rear of the body) appears to be there. The hubcaps don't even have any dents and the pedals are not worn! The engine turns over easily.

I found out 700 miles in a day is a little more than I enjoy. I am going to put the "new " buick in the garage next to the '30 and try to not spend the day looking it over.

Thanks again for everyone's support.

Dwight

Edited by Dwight Romberger
speeling.. (see edit history)
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I received the 1922 Four cylinder series owners manual and the Buick Reference Book for 1922-23. Both seem very complete.

Just imagine my joy when I realized it has a marvel carburetor! I am also glad it is 18 hp. My 22 hp Model T is just too much engine for me to handle!

I found all the id. plates. It is indeed a 22-4-35. 1922-4 cyl-Touring. The rear section was unbolted and removed, not the sawzall cut I expected. Michigan title looks legitimate with the Michigan owners signature. Penna has a new antique plate and registration system in place. You can now register your car with " year it was built" Penna. plates, and they no longer require photos to prove the car has been restored or any kind of inspection. My '22 plates from ebay arrived yesterday and I am going Monday to have the title switched and the car registered before someone it the Dept of Transportation realizes the "no picture, no inspection " idea is a really bad one.

All the wood I can get to is solid. a small amount of rust through below and to the rear of the passenger door. The rest is surface rust (patina). Both front fenders damaged at the same time. It looks like something was backed into it.

The engine turns over very easily. More easily than my rebuilt Model T engine actually. Gas tank is FULL of very old gas. If you imagine the smell of old gas an they triple it. It has some kind of black pre-duct tape sealing the cap.

I was surprised to see both a ignition key switch and a keyed lock on the rear of the base of the gear shift handle. I will have to have a key(s) made to match at some point.

One of the inner tubes has a slow leak (I can't imagine they had the nerve to sell it like that)!

I have new spare inner tube for the Model T that is the same size. That is the most I am going to do to it for at least a year.

Any suggestions on storage prep? Motor oils change, rear axle + trans oil change.

How about pumping some MMO in the cylinders?

Spray lubricant or BP Blaster anywhere?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Edited by Dwight Romberger (see edit history)
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Well, my wife had the day off and about noon she asked if I wanted to go out for lunch, maybe up to Bergen (where I met Dwight yesterday). I said sure.

We got the same waitress. I asked her if she knew about how careful you had to be about meeting people you met online. She gave me one of those semi-horrified looks and shoot her head. I told her the guy I was with yesterday was someone I met online and she knew the 1922 Buick was his. I told her "I met him and now I want one, too." Boy, she's going to stay away from online meetings for sure now.

Its Friday night so I'm taking her up to town to sit in front of the dryers at the Laundromat and practice telepathy.

Bernie

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Dwight,

If I were you, I would let the old oil drain out as much as possible, even helping it along with some 10w-30 oil added. Dropping the oil pan and really cleaning it out would be the best thing, though. Refill with 4 quarts 30 weight. Remove your spark plugs, squirt in plenty of light oil or trans fluid from a squirt oil can into the cylinders, crank over several times. You might want to oil your overhead valves, rockers and springs with same squirt oil can. Use plenty. Replace plugs loosely but plan on doing a first class clean up pretty soon.

Always a good idea to drain out the trans and rear end and refill (probably with 120 weight rather than 90 weight gear oil) but that can keep for a while if necessary. Oil the motor/generator cups, starter cups, fan pulley, too. Hey, hope to see you at Hershey.

Gary

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OK, so they got one right.

LOL... This is not the only one I worked on. When you get them adjusted right they work well.

Along with what Gary suggested, I would also drain all the old gas you can out of it. Dandy Dave!

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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Yes Dave. I believe you and I loved my '72 Vega too!

Thanks. Draining the tank is a good idea. I guess I should refill it with stabilized gas.

After sitting for 70 years, all the exposed nuts and bolts are rusted, and another year or so isn't going to make any difference in their deterioration. But, is there any value in soaking them now with a penetrating oil and several times over the next year until I actually take them apart? Or is the benefit short lived?

Thanks,

Dwight

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I'd mix up some acetone/ATF or Laquer thinner/ATF mix and use a spray gun, cover the whole chassis, springs, etc.. It will do no harm, it will soften surface grease/dirt, and penetrate the fasteners.

If you drain the gasoline tank, I'd rinse it with clean gas, and look inside to see if it is coated with gum and varnish. If not, refill with ethanol free gas, or stabliized gas.. If it is all gummed up, put a few gallons of MEK [methyl ethyl Ketone] in the tank, and let it set, it will soften the gum and aid in cleaning the tank when the time comes..

Greg L

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Thanks. Draining the tank is a good idea. I guess I should refill it with stabilized gas.

Thanks,

Dwight

Do not put gas in it until you are ready to start and run it. You may have to pull the tank and other fuel parts and clean the gum out of them. Lacquer Thinner works well. Dandy Dave!

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Did I read that this touring body was just unbolted from the rear of the car? Nothing cut or sawn off ?? I'd shop around for someone with the same car, and see if you can get a really good look at the rear body section.. You might just be able to replicate the rear body section and have a touring car really quick.

I'm really glad you got this car, I was feeling a bit guilty that I didn't offer to bring the car to Hershey for you, I just wasn't sure I could commit to getting my trailer empty and go get the car for you last week.. then you found the car sold.. before you secured transportation. I was feeling bad that IF I had said i'd go get it for sooner, then it would not have gotten away,

BUT:I guess you were 'destined' to own the car. It made itself available for you a second time..

I'd just lubricate everything, don't forget the valve guides, carburetor moving parts etc.. i'd fill the carb float bowl with pure gas and 'sea-foam' to soften and help clean it.

Good luck with the project. keep us entertained.. er. informed..

Greg L

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