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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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Thanks Ted, Trans first, then on to the motor...

 

Waiting for the Hardware to arrive, then i can start to reassemble the Trans and components. Then I will start to work on the Engine, tear down and clean it up, then paint it up. Hopefully be able to start put it all back together and get it in the car...

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The 1930 Dodge 8 engine was painted fully assembled, including the water pump and valve covers and the manifolds. There was a bit of overspray on the exhaust manifold that burnt off quickly. So the valve covers and push rod covers were painted separately when they assembled Chev's? This would be extra cost...

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  • 3 weeks later...

working on putting my 1929 Engine back together, i removed all the old tappets and replaced them with a new set from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) ordered all the goodies including new gaskets for the Push Rod Cover.
Old Tappets Removed
New set of Tappets from C&P
they were cleaned as per included instructions, then i applied a coat of 50/50 motor oil & STP to help them slide into place as well as preserve them until the engine is fired back up and libricated via oil.
Looking down into a NEW Tappet

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The Gasket kit i Acquired from an Estate Sale actually has CORK Gasket for the Push Rod Cover, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan !! 

I installed a thin coat of Permatex No 2 to the Push Rod Cover, installed the Gasket and lined it up, then a thin coat of Permatex on the Gasket and Installed the Cover to the Engine, aligned it and Secure it in place with hardware.

Dry Fit of Cork Gasket
Thin Coat of Permatex No 2 w/ Cork Gasket Installed
Cover Installed and Secured to Engine Side
Side View of Gasket Sealed

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  • 1 month later...

Installing the Throwout Bearing into the Clutch Fork, there is a Clutch Fork Spring that goes in and Holds the Bearing in place and allows it to rotate to stay flat against the Clutch Throwout Bearing Sleeve. 

I bought NEW springs from TFS and this is what they look like installed. 

They do not sit flush or go all the way in
Spring Install Top
Notice the recess looks, like pin should sit in to stay, pin is in far as it will go
Spring Install Side 1
another view of spring
Spring Install Side 2
If i pull the spring out so the first bulge sits in the recess on the fork. it feels sloppy like the spring will just pop out. NOT securely seated.

Original Springs
notice the shape of the original spring.

Here is the Original Spring (TOP) vs the NEW Spring (Bottom) Spring Comparison

Original Spring Installed 
Original Spring Install Depth 
Notice that spring installed that the depth of the spring goes in a good ways and sits secured

New Spring Installed 
New Spring Install Depth
notice only about 1/4" goes in

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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When i took apart my 1929 Transmission, the   Bottom Flywheel Cover, has a drain hole, an in that drain hole was a Cotter pin. not sure if the pin was to help get the oil out and away from the pan when it drips vs run down the side and hanging on.

Is this factory or something the PO did ?!

Should i Put a new Cotter Pin in or ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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I am wondering what it takes to remove the fuel tank from my 1929. Since i am cleaning and checking everything as i go, figured i mine as well drain it flush it and clean it out. 

Looking at the tank, looks like there are ONLY 2 straps holding the tank in place. Is this all that holds the tank to the frame ?? and to remove those 2 straps looks like there are two bolts/ nuts on the front side that hold the straps to the frame. 

so if i support the tank, remove the fuel line from the tank, i then can remove the hardware, loosen the straps, and then slowly lower the gas tank down ??  then installation is the reverse ??

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how can i check the fuel sending unit, and what does it look like ??

1-seems there is a plug of sorts on the bottom of the tank, i assume to drain the tank if needed ??

2-looks like the gas gauge is all one piece internal to the tank, and looks like i should be able to slowly thread it off and gently pull it out of the tank ?? any tricks/ tips or anything that i should be weary of when pulling it out to validate & inspect it ??

3-assume there are gaskets to seal the unit to the tank to prevent leaks, or just threaded on and that is all ?? 

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Ordering some hardware for my 1929 Running Board & Apron. Looking at the MPL it list 1/4-20 @ 3/4 & 1 long then 5/16-18 3/4, 1, and 1-1/4 long which one are used to:

1-Apron to Running Board Sides
2-Apron to Running Board Ends of Running Boards

Looking at what I have on mine now is NO help, PO used whatever he had laying around, it is a hodge podge of hardware, types, sizes, materials, etc...

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Wondering if there are any replacements for the Universal Joint Ball washers #348133 they are shown in red here:   Washers 348133 

seems i am missing one, and the other looks abused.

or can i make new ones, or is there a substitute for them ?? or do i need to find a WHOLE new Assembly (Mushroom) 

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looks like they tore one out and then tried to get the other one out, it is bent, warped, distorted, twisted, etc...

I was thinking to get a few cut out, with a slot so i could work it in like a spiral, and then put the o-ring in between. 

not sure what my other options are at this point.

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I was able to source 2 Spiral washers to replace the lost & destroyed washers in my u-joint housing. I cleaned out the end, and deburred the housing where the washers & o-ring will go. this was to ensure the spiral washers sit properly and the o-ring would NOT get damaged.

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I opted for the 2 turn vs the 1 turn, since the 1 turn have a gap in them and figured this would cause issues with the o-ring, an edge to pinch on or a gap for the o-ring to try to escape.

really happy with the 2 turn easy to install and looks great. NO sharp edges and easy to remove. as you can see the custom lip they have for removal !!

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I contacted the Manufacturer directly, as we do tons of business with them for the company i work for. gave him some specs and he sent me some samples to try. a few 1 turn and a few 2 turn. 

If they work he says he can produce some for me in batches of 100 due to production run limits. so that would be 50 sets and would be pretty cheap, under $10 a set maybe even less !! 

I had them make them fit a little tight, so they do NOT slop around in the housing. should they be loose or snug ??

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Well last Monday i was home and was finally to the point of putting the engine & transmission back into my 1929. i double checked everything and then rolled the car back half way out the garage, then set up my engine hoist, and figured out a way to sling and hook it up to drop it back in.

 

I used my hand dandy moving blankets from Harbor Freight, they work great as fender protectors. Also Taped on some cardboard to back of engine to avoid scratching up the firewall and engine itself. I did bump a few things going back in, so had to do some touch up on pain, mainly the frame.

 

1929 Driveline Ready to go Back In
1929 Driveline Almost There
1929 Driveline Settled In
1929 Driveline All Ready  
 
Engine is in, now to drop in the pans and then start bolting on the accessories.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Working on putting Engine, Components, and Accessories back into the 1929 Bay. Wondering when is the best time to install the Splash/ Underpans ?? 

should they go in LAST after everything else engine, components, accessories ?

or should they on right after engine is installed BEFORE components and accessories are installed ??

Thanks in Advance !!

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While working on the car, i decided to remove the Hand Brake Handle & Assembly and Refinish it.

When removed from the car, hardware was corroded and the handle had seen better days.

1929 hnad Brake Lever Assembly

1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1a  
1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1b  

1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2a  
1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2b

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