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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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Got my Exhaust Manifold All Primed up.
I am using the  KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Zinc Primer, goes on smooth and clean. Following Directions from KBS, I applied 2 light coats of the Primer.

 

Exhaust All Primed Up:
Exhaust Manifold Primed 01
Exhaust Manifold Primed 02
Exhaust Manifold Primed 03
Exhaust Manifold Primed 04

 

Have to say with the Primer on it looks REALLY NICE and CLEAN !!

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Next was Top Coat, this is the KBS Coatings Xtreme Temperature Paint, I decided to go with Jet Black, I know, I know it is NOT correct, but I like how SHARP it looks and the contrast against the Chevrolet Grey Engine color, plus will go nicely with all the BLACK Accessories on the Engine. YES, they make a Cast Iron Gray As well that many of you may like to make it look like RAW Metal.   KBS Xtreme Temperature Coating Colors 


Exhaust All Painted Up:
Exhaust Manifold Painted 01
Exhaust Manifold Painted 02
Exhaust Manifold Painted 03
Exhaust Manifold Painted 04

 

I like the way it looks, have to say I am pretty impressed with the outcome so far.

 

Now let it dry for 8 hours then will heat cure per instructions to FULLY CURE the product. Supposed to withstand temps up to 1200 F once it is fully cured.  Will see how it works and how long it will last. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Make Horn Gaskets

made the 2 Paper Gaskets using Fel Pro 1/64 Thick Karropak Material, the Rubber Gasket out of Fel Pro 1/32 Thick Rubber-Fiber Material.

Horn Gaskets

Using my Hole Punch, & X-acto Knife, also digitize the templates so i have them for future use, like all my gaskets !! 

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Test & Tune

 

Klaxon 8C Horn Test

Should be a Short video of Horn Working

[color:#FF0000]!! There should be a PLAY button in top right hand corner !![/color]

 

When dissembled I loosened the adjust screw until the motor turned freely by hand with out resistance or clicking the diaphragm. when completely assembled i turned the adjust knock a few clicks at a time until the horn was at its loudest and not dragging or stalling the motor.

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well in looking through my parts i noticed that my Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt was bent, and some of the threads are gone, even chasing them did not cure the issue. Hard to get nut to go passed a certain point.

 

Stock Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt

 

So i went on a venture to find a replacement, which none to be had, so I had to make one !!

 

I looked at standard Eye Bolts, noting that the stock one is 3/8-16. Found several options but the eyes were all too large. The stock eye is about 5/8" dia, the ones I found were either .90" or 1.00" diameter. Also the stock eye bolts on the shelf were NOT fully threaded. Then I stumbled across what I needed in the way of a 3/8-16 turnbuckle !! they are completely threaded and have 3/8-16 threads along with a 5/8" diameter eye, granted they are closed.

 

3/8-16 x 16 Turnbuckle
They have a 10" & 16" turnbuckle, went with the 16" as the screws were long enough, the 10" screws are shorter than the stock, 16" are longer than stock but can always cut them to length.

 

Stock Bolt beside Turnbuckle Bolt
Stock Bolt over Turnbuckle Bolt

 

Marked up Turnbuckle Bolt using Stock Clutch Bolt as a Guide, then Used my Angle Grinder to trim and cut to length, then filed to clean up threads and edges.

New Clutch Bolt Cut & Trimmed

 

New Clutch Bolt vs Stock Clutch Bolt
Stock besides New Clutch Bolt
Stock LayOver New Clutch Bolt

 

Ready for Install
New Clutch Adjusting Eye Bolt COMPLETE

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Your original bent eyebolt does not look original to me.  It might be a grade 2 homemade eye? 

 

I could be wrong, but I will look at my 29.  I did work on the clutch and adjustment a month ago, and I do recall it was an open hook like what you made.

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  • 3 months later...

Well as most of you know, Ted [chistech] has been working on my 1929, doing many things including BUT not limited to, installing complete interior, vinyl roof, repairing and replacing some wood, doing some metal work, installed all new handles, cranks, escutcheons, window, rubber, seals, etc.

car was delivered back here on Thursday am, started unloading and unpacking around 5am, and in the garage it went. Ted & Wife headed off to Hershey and me off to work, after a power nap of course. Then rolled in Matthew to water and blow us around. 6+ inches here, flood, trees down. spent 2 days cleaning up, still not done, then some sunshine on Monday, so rolled the car out, opened it up and decided to apply some scotchgard auto to the new upholstery and carpet. figured this should help preserve the fabric some.

also was a GREAT opportunity to get some photos of the car, outside and inside.

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Here is link to the Ted Library
...photos from restoration, many that have been posted on here in chats, but a lot that have not yet been posted or shared.
  1929 Ted Restoration Library

Got any questions, feel free to ask, Ted or Myself will gladly answer
Feedback & Comments are also welcome

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Bill, the link works fine.  Pretty intensive work done and looks to be first class.   What mechanical work have you had to do?  Is the car running and driving also.  Looks great from the pics so far.  Great job in keeping her alive.  You will now have to go to Hershey next year.  Keep posting on your progress.  

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  • 2 months later...

Yeah lots of work, had someone (Ted) up in Mass do the interior and roof, he did a superb job. great with wood and metal.

 

as for work to do, i have to rebuild top half of engine, and while i have it out i plan to go over the transmission and make sure it is all good. strip and repaint it all while i am at it.  no need to dig in and get it all done !!

 

Was running ROUGH when i got it, and hope once i get done with the top end it will purr all day !!

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well finally got back out to the garage and pulled the transmission from the driveline assembly. I pulled the driveline back before i sent the car up to Ted (chistech) to do my interior and roof. read through all my notes and questions on here, then away i went.

I used my engine hoist to leverage the transmission and serve as a second set of hands. used my endless loop sling as well.
  Transmission Slung
You can see my homemade guidepins to ensure i was going straight out. 

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Great to see you're get back to it Jerry. Got Steve's 31' 5 passenger coupe in from AZ now that I'm working on. Kind of the same type wood issues as yours in the front. Getting a fully body disassembly and total, rotisserie paint job. Full rechrome, interior and roof. It's going to be hear for a while, lots of work. Right now we're in the middle of a 12-18" Nor Easter. Lots of shoveling tomorrow.

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  • 1 month later...

All the Parts Prepped and ready for Blasting. Used Tape to cover the Friction surfaces, where the clutch runs. want to protect this so i do NOT have to machine it.

Pressure Plate Drive Side
Pressure Plate Spring Side
Flywheel Plate Side
Flywheel Gear Side
Notice that the Ring has been replaced sometime before
Trans Bracket Engine Side
Trans Bracket Trans Side
Bell Housing

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I Then primed all the parts up, did not take any pictures of that process, sorry... but you can see the primer outline on the cardboard :) made sure that ALL parts were completely coated and sealed via primer, did about 3 light coats on all parts.

Then applied Top Coat, 2-3 Coats on each part.

All Parts painted up

Pressure Plate Spring Side
Pressure Plate Back Side
Flywheel Plate Side
Trans Bracket Engine Side
Flywheel Cover Plate
Bell Housing

Yeah Yeah, i know the pressure plate and flywheel are left plain... but i primed them to protect them, could have stopped there, but could not find cast iron paint, so went with the Chevrolet Grey. You will not see any of these items once assembled, but I am happy.

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while in the engine, was looking at the fuel pump. i want to at least replace the diaphragm with   FS-371 for ethanol :)

if i rebuild The Pump how hard is it to completely do so with this kit:   FS-908.

is there any way to tell IF if needs to be rebuilt or has been rebuilt recently ?? 

Here are pictures of   1929 Fuel Pump, i bought the screen, gasket, and paper filter when i got the car for test runs...

What do the two nuts/ screws on top do ?? do both house Valve Springs to control flow and direction of Fuel through the pump to the carb ??
looking at 1929 I&O pg 41, same as what is in the 1929 Repair Manual as well.

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Well i did order TFS Items: FS-908 FUEL PUMP REBUILD KIT & FS-371 FUEL PUMP DIAPHRAGM. this way i can rebuild the pump if needed, and if not i have spare parts for it if i ever do :) order the Diaphragm just to have as a spare, i know the rebuild kit has one in it. figure it would not hurt to have a spare lying around.

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Tore down the gear shift lever today, going to prime and paint in tomorrow. supposed to me another beautiful 70 F sunny day.

Cleaned up the Case Cover and Gear Shift Fork Assembly. lots of gunk packed down in the recess with the pins. Took a lot of convincing to get the lever out of the case. not too mention it was painted together !! does not look like PO took it apart and cleaned it up.

Case Cover 01
Case Cover Large Gunk Removed

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Now my question is with the lever, spring, cap, and cup

should the spring be greased ? oiled ? or is it just a simple spring in dry operation ??

here is a picture of it when i got it apart, notice the spring is PACKED with gunk. very hard to operate. took a TON on convincing to compress it.

Lever Assembly w/ Spring
Lever Fork End Cleaned up

Spring, cup, and cap were cleaned and spring works freely now !!

All of the parts were cleaned and prepped for paint tomorrow, well the lever and case cover will. assume the rest are just bare metal ??

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