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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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Regarding the carb tag, the number sequence seems to be consistent with what Carter did for later carburetors. The large 50S is a model number for the carb. The J 8 8 is a date code which probably decodes to August 8 1928. If Carter did not ignore the letter "I" in the date sequence, the date would be September 8, 1928. Joe

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  • 4 weeks later...

AS of tonight, have installed al but 4 Cotter Pins on the Brakes, these I will install once I double check the brakes WITH the wheels on. This way I can fine tune and adjust the linkages as needed.

Also Swapped out the 136s for the 150s, and got it running.

Supposed to be a wet nasty weekend here, so I plan on FINE tuning the engine, double check timing and set the idle. Get all four wheels on, double check the brakes, and finish setting the PARKING Brake. Maybe check the fluid levels in Tranny & Rear. after that should be ready to take it for a ride.

I Think...

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removed the bottom rear end cover bolt to see what I could drain, got even LESS from the rear end they the Transmission. So Pulled the cover off and going to make a new gasket. Also going to flush out and clean up the rear end some to remove any sludge and build up in there. Overall it looks really clean Inside Rear End. Rear End Cover This is how it looked when I removed it, notice NO signs of oil on it anywhere !!

Need to get a larger sheet of Cork gasket material to cut a new gasket. also going to make a new gasket for the top of the trans cover, since I removed that to take a look inside.Trans Cover Gasket

Tranny Gears

Will pick up a quart of 10w30 to flush the tranny & REAR END before I do the new gasket.

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I love making gaskets, like an art form.

I am just going one step further, with the new DIGITAL age, as I am also scanning them in electronically (Digitizing). this way when I need a new one I can pull it up, print it out 1:1 and cut a new one :)

Also to order the 2 gaskets above would run me $40 MIN !! 2 Sheets of Gasket material $5 ea ($10 total) then about 30 minutes each to trace, cut & punch...

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sat down this morning and cut out my gaskets, also a good time to test out my new punch set. Granted I did a few test punch on various materials, various sizes to make sure it would PUNCH the holes and NOT TEAR them !!

Printed out a full size template of my Rear End Cover Gasket (Fel-Pro Cork-Rubber) & my Transmission Top Gasket (Fel-Pro Rubber-Fiber). used a glue stick (Elmer's water soluble) to get the paper template to stick to the gasket material. let them sit for a few minutes. broke out the scissors and rough cut out gaskets, then used the x-Acto to clean them up and fine tune. then used the punch set to punch all the bolt holes.

Transmission Top Gasket

Original Gasket

NEW Gasket

used the original gasket as a guide, as well as the Transmission housing & shifter cover

Rear End Cover Gasket

New Gasket

Had to use the Read End Cover & Rear End Housing to make a template, since the original gasket was cork and destroyed in the removal of the Cover.

They look great, hopefully will get out and get them installed this weekend and get OIL in the Transmission and Rear End as well.

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Working on Fine tuning the 1929, I was wondering what the PROPER Diameter for the Vacuum Tubing from the Intake Manifold to the Wiper Valve should be? Currently there is 1/4" OD Copper Tubing run from the Intake manifold to the inside of the cabin, then a piece of rubber tubing from the copper 1/4" where the wiper Valve Goes. Then there is a piece of 3/16" OD Copper Tubing from the inside cabin(also has a piece of rubber tube on the end of it) to where the wiper motor mounts.

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looking into the 1929-30 MPL that I have it list two nuts as well

Valve Assembly, Wiper Control (in Instrument Panel)..........344865

...Coupling Nut (3/16")...................................................114962

...Coupling Nut (1/4").....................................................114963

For now I have a 1/8"(M)NPT Pipe plug in the intake manifold to avoid the vacuum leak, when i get back to the wiper motor and assembly I will install 1/4" tubing from manifold to valve, then 3/16" tubing from valve to Wiper motor connection. Will also get the required fittings as well.

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Was doing an electrical check on my 1929 Chevrolet, to see what kind of voltage the Generator is putting out.

Concern 1

Battery is disconnected, and using a volt meter on DC. touch the ground to frame and then touch the positive to the output of the cutout switch (from cut out to battery) and get a reading of 5.4 volts ?? same reading if i touch it ground to frame and positive to starter.

-why would i have a volt reading ??

-where would it be coming from ??

with battery connected this reading matches what my volt reading is direct on the battery within a few tenths of a volt.

Concern 2

with battery connected and car running i am getting 8.5-8.9 volt reading on the generator side of generator. is this good, or ??

Does the generator put out a CONSTANT voltage and the third brush vary the CURRENT (AMP) output ??

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Well finally dropped the car back on the wheels and took it out on it's Maiden Voyage !! [color:#000099]This was the first time that the 1929 Has been out under it's Own Power & Able to STOP itself in over 20 Years !!

Also the FIRST Time that I have EVER DRIVEN an Antique car as well.

Needless to say it was Exciting & Exhilarating

...So much had to a FEW extra trips around the block

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Out on my Maiden Voyage yesterday the car ran good, shifted pretty smooth, from what I could tell. My question is when I start to release the clutch (letting off the pedal) WHEN in the path should the clutch engage ?? it seemed like the clutch was NOT engaging until the Pedal was almost all the way up to resting position.

I have gone through my Owners Manual & Repair Manual. Pedal is adjusted to it is 3/4" from floorboard, also Approx 1/2" - 3/4" of travel before clutch begins to disengage.

First time driving an Antique Car so not sure HOW the clutch should feel. I know I drive a modern 5spd everyday and have for over 20 years, know the older cars function very different, and want to be sure, and adjust anything that may need it.

in order to check that would require removal of the transmission, which would encompass the u-joint/ drive shaft & unbolting from the engine ?!?

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Talked to the previous owner, and since he inherited the car from his wife's uncle (when he passed) and the Drivetrain was assembled and in the Chassis, he does not know.

I will install the clutch pedal return spring, since there is NOT one currently installed (have one when I ordered Brake Springs), then adjust the clutch nut per manual.

Then another Test Drive, man what a bummer, have to go out and drive it again ( Woo Hoo )

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  • 2 weeks later...

Installed The Clutch Spring, and adjusted the Clutch Adjusting Nut so that

so that by depressing (clutch) pedal with hand it will travel from 1/2" to 3/4" before clutch starts to disengage.'

If it is NICE outside today I will try to get out for a TEST drive and see how it functions

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ok, so got a chance to do a quickie trip around the block a few times on sunday afternoon.

I will have to say with the spring installed and the pedal adjusted per the manual, it drove so much better. The clutch felt more natural when working it. just need more practice on the downshifting...

now need to break in the brakes so that they can be fine tuned and adjusted

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, did some research and reading in my manuals and on here. It seems that the standard setting for a generator is output of about 10 AMPS. I am going to try and fine tune the generator and work on the electrical on my 1929, 6v system.

Everything i read talks about setting the output to 10 AMPs but I will be using a Volt Meter, so What VOLTAGE output should i be Looking for and Setting to ?? 7.2-8.0 Volts ?? and at what RPM, I will have to get a tachometer as well, so that I can coordinate this all.

What should the output be at idle ?? or is it irrelevant at idle ??

Any tips trick, as I want to make sure the Third Brush will be set correctly for the proper output.

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I am fine tuning my 1929 and am in the market to get a tachometer to be able to check the engine, generator, etc... RPM's

Anyone have any recommendations or experience with certain brands/ models ???

I was looking at something like this CyberTech Digital Photo Tachometer Pretty Simple, Cheap, and gets good reviews ??

...it is a NO contact item

...place reflective strip on surface, run it and check RPM's

Also does anyone have a Mounted Tach in their Antique/ Vintage ??

May be interested in using one inside for driving & monitoring.

...Does it have to be 6v, or will a 12v one work ??

...Best way to connect for accurate readings !?

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Question about Setting Valves...

In my 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual it states .008" gap for BOTH Intake and Exhaust Valves.

In my 1929 Inst for Oper and Care it states .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.

With this difference, what SHOULD be Used. I set mine via the 1929 Inst for Oper and Care with .006" gap on Intake, .008" gap for Exhaust.

I did STOP engine and do warm adjustments at that time, I tried to do it while idling, but guess it takes some practice and skill not to damage your feeler gauges and adjust.

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Fine tuning my 1929 and wondering what the recommended RPM at Idle is ??

Per 1929 Chevrolet Repair Manual

Idle Engine Speed

Idle engine speed is regulated by the thottle lever adjusting screw. This acts as a stop for the throttle lever and prevents the throttle valve from closing too tight and allowing the motor to stop when the accelerator is released. With the hand throttle on the instrument board closed, set the throttle lever adjusting screw so that the motor will run approximately 300 revolutions per minute. If the motor runs too fast, back the adjusting screw out. If too slow, turn in until the proper speed is obtained.

I used a laser tach today and see that mine is idling around 850 rpm... Tested by Revolutions of Fan Blade, or is there a better place to check revolutions ??

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I did a double check and checked the RPM based on the Crankshaft Pulley.

Crankshaft: ~600 RPM

Fan: ~900 RPM

Generator Pulley: ~1200 RPM

When I adjust the RPM to less then 600, it starts to sputter n stutter...

What am I missing, doing wrong, need to check, adjust ???

I did double check and adjust the valves HOT

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Well in working on my 1929 When I went to take it out on the Maiden Voyage I discovered that I could NOT secure the doors shut, not all four anyways. As I was Missing a few striker plates and a few Cover plates. Cover Plates are not required to secure the door, more aesthetics than anything.

Talked with few Antique Chevrolet Parts Suppliers, and none had any in stock. So I ventured out to local shops to see if they could reproduce the parts for me. I created drawings for the build. Found a few sheet metal shops willing to build me some cover plates, since i had drawings and could provide files to feed the info to the cutters.

Got my first samples back a few days ago. Had them laser cute the pattern out, then me do the breaks (bending)

have to say I am very impressed with the results. I am going to countersink the holes to match the wood screws that hold them in. so when they are installed they will be FLUSH !!

Here are some shots Green part is the existing one I pulled off to create my drawings & patterns. Metal color are the produced parts. can see the flat pattern then the bent final part.

1929 Door Cover Plate Pictures

In case you are wondering, 'Where do those go'

Striker Plate Installed

Striker Plate Missing

Other shop should have my rough machined striker plates here soon... I hope they turn out just as good !! those will be complete ready to install, other than painting...

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  • 1 month later...

I am looking for someone who can Rebuild 1929 Rocker Arms Properly as I Need to have the Rocker Arms on my 1929 Chevrolet 194 Rebuilt. They need to be Welded up, then ground & shaped PROPERLY. Possible hardened as well. Would like someone who is experienced and will provide a QUALITY end result that will last me a LONG time. Any leads would be appreciated.

I talked with Bill (Billy Possum) over @ C&P Automotive, they no longer provide there Rocker Arm Rebuild Service as they are unable to find anyone locally that can rebuild the Rocker Arms with Quality Results.

Once I can find someone to do this service I will have my Rocker Arm Assemblies Rebuilt w/ New Shafts, Bushings, Springs, Clips, Wicks. From what i can see the Valve Adjustment Screws & Locking Nuts are in great shape, they all move freely and are NOT marred up. If the Rocker Arm Place can do this would like to have it all done in one shot so the bearings can be reamed to fit the shafts properly. I will be getting the parts from Bill, or one of his outlets :)

Need to debate if I want to PULL the Head and have the valves check and maybe the seats cleaned and filed for proper valve seating. and also look at new Spring Caps & Keys. Maybe NEW Valve Springs as well. Also will put in NEW Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends as what I have now is a mixed bag of the original 2 piece and some later one piece rods.

Also what about replacing the Valve Tappets ?? any way to determine if the ONE I have are worth keeping or need replacing ??

ANY and ALL help is appreciated... yeah the Engine was NOT REBUILT it was OVERHAULED, as we all know from reading my threads...

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Ok found a few places that are experienced in the Realm of resurfacing the Rocker Arms. Also they will chrome plate the shaft or replace it will one of C&P 's Chrome Moly jobs. They tumble the rocker arms to reduce stress that has built up, which makes sense. they build up the surface and then contour the rocker arm valve face. they also will ream out the rocker arms and install new bushings, the bushings will be grooved and hole drilled for the wick feed. The bushing will be reamed to mount properly on the shaft. I am also going to replace the springs and clips. a few of the springs are beyond shot !! Will also put in new WICKS.

Man I am excited !! now just to get time to remove them and send them out. Said about 3 weeks turn around, so gives me time to do other things as well... ELECTRICAL

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doing a quick look over the Rocker Arm Assembly... Looks like somewhere along the line someone welded some up, well tried to. Can anyone confirm that these are the RIGHT rocker Arm Assemblies that should be on my First Generation 1929 ??

Here are some shots of the Rocker Arms:

This is the First Cylinder from 3 angles

Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01a

Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01b

Rocker Arm Assembly Pict 01c

Rocker Arms to Valve Stem Head on Pictures

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 1

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 2

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 3

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 4

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 5

Rocker Arm Assembly Cyl 6

Shot of the Top Half

Looking from 1 to 6

Also seems that the Arm can EASILY be moved around, not just side to side, but they can be rocked on the shaft [left to right]. Telling me the bushings are SHOT !!

On the Bright side, the Adjusting Screws & Nuts LOOK Great, they all spin and turn easily and threads look great. So these should be GOOD to GO !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Pulled my Rocker Arm Assemblies off today and decided to check the TIPS out. Took some pictures, and then measured the Tips at their thickness point on the LEFT side of rib then the RIGHT side of the rib.

With a closer look you can tell that the TIPS were done with some sort of Brass/ Bronze Material, or at least that coloration and YES it is really soft, tested it with a file, real easy to file and really SOFT. Was done a while back as you can tell from the pictures. They are pitted, distorted and worn out, looks like the Valve Stems have been BEATING THEM UP !!

The numbers say it all:

Rocker Number Thickness Lt - . Rt (Diff)

Cylinder 1 Exhaust:---.278 - .271 (.007)

Cylinder 1 Intake:----.315 - .324 (.009)

Cylinder 2 Intake:----.270 - .276 (.006)

Cylinder 2 Exhaust:---.266 - .284 (.018)

Cylinder 3 Exhaust:---.259 - .276 (.017)

Cylinder 3 Intake:----.274 - .279 (.005)

Cylinder 4 Intake:----.247 - .249 (.002)

Cylinder 4 Exhaust:---.286 - .267 (.019)

Cylinder 5 Exhaust:---.245 - .261 (.016)

Cylinder 5 Intake:----.253 - .294 (.041)

Cylinder 6 Intake:----.279 - .278 (.001)

Cylinder 6 Exhaust:---.251 - .268 (.017)

Now a Picture Says a THOUSAND WORDS...

Rocker Arm Cylinder 1

Rocker Arm Cylinder 2

Rocker Arm Cylinder 3

Rocker Arm Cylinder 4

Rocker Arm Cylinder 5

Rocker Arm Cylinder 6

Smooth and Round they are NOT !! Well not anymore...

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Also Checked the Bushings...

Bushings 01

Bushings 02

They are Split style bushing. You can see there is some pitting and wear in the bushing, all are the about the same.

They is some play, and some are a little Sloppy

Shaft OD---.714

Bushing ID-.728



So NEW bushings as well...

Shafts, well they are a little pitted in places, and show some wear

Shaft 01

Shaft 02

So either some NEW C&P Shafts OR resurface & grind the ones I have (SAME COST)

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When I go to have my Rocker Arms Rebuilt here soon I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well. Figure would be a good time to check tappets and replace if needed...

Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valve Tappets ?? For Fit Wear, etc... How can I tell if they are OK/ good or NEED to be replaced ??

Number Two on the TOP HALF Engine List is replacing the Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends, as of now I have a mix of Original 2 Piece Valve Push Rods & Push Rod Ends and some Single Piece Valve Push Rods. Would like them all to be original style and this will also ensure that they are straight. Going to go with the 'Billy Possum' C&P Automotive ones. 'These rods are exactly as the original rods in appearance, but are induction heat treated on the ends (about ¾”) to give longer life. The push rod ends are case hardened as were the originals'

Also would be a C&P Item 'One of the most common engine parts to fail. Typically the surface bearing on the camshaft fails due to metal fatigue. These case hardened tappets are ground with a shallow radius on the bottom to cause rotation, essential to long tappet life.'

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I will do a VISUAL Inspection when i pull the rocker arm assemblies off. pull the rods, check em and check the Tappets/ Valve Guides for wear n tear and any flaking or deterioration.

Yeah not putting HIGH mileage on it, but want to make sure it is going to run properly and for a long time, and want to check everything while i am in there and it is apart. Not having to tear it all apart later because I did NOT check while I had the chance.

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Now that I am having my Rocker Arms resurfaced & rebuilt, I am going to double check the rest of the TOP HALF of the engine as well.

Is there ANY WAY to Check the Valves (Intake & Exhaust), Valve Springs, Valve Spring Caps, Valve Keys?? Want to make sure they are in condition to run & operate. Any way to I cad tell if they are GOOD or NEED to be replaced WITH OUT Removing the HEAD ??

Yeah I am NOT going to drive my car a million miles in a year, but i do WANT it to RUN Properly and not have to be worried about something breaking or coming apart. yeah I KNOW it is an Antique and poo happens. just trying to be preventative and proactive. Since I am in there Want to check out the other parts as well !!

Figure look it all over check it out, assess it, and replace it if needed...

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could also do a Leak down Test, see IF the Cylinders will hold Compression. I know that each cylinder has about 75 PSI when last checked. NEED to see if it will hold compression and how long it can or how long till it drops x amount of PSI.

Will also do a GOOD LOOKY SEE and see if there are ANY VISIBLE Sings of Wear n Tear. Double checking the CAPs n Keys.

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Ok Went out Last night and looked at the Valves, Springs, Retainer Caps, And Retainers (keys)

Looking at them the end of the Valves look great, BUT I do not see the Keys that look like the picture on TFS of C&P !?

Are these the right valve Caps & Retainers on my 1929 ??

Valve Assembly Pict 01

Valve Assembly Pict 02

Valve Assembly Pict 03

Valve Assembly Pict 04

Valve Assembly Pict 05

Valve Assembly Pict 06

From the looks, they look like they have either been REBUILT or REPLACED, in the parts box I got with the car, there was a used valve or two in there and 7 Valve Springs. No Retainer Caps or Keys.


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Intake & Exhaust Valve

Make: Own

Material: Extruded Steel

Head Diameter Nominal: 1 11/32

Stem Length: 4 23/32

Stem Dia: 5/16

Style of Stem Mod: Key

Tappet Clearance: .006 Hot Int & .008 Hot Exh

Spring Pressure: 45 lb Valve Closed

Valve Lift: .277

Are Stem Guides Removable: Yes

Are Oversize Valve Stems Made: No

Overhead Valve Lubrication: Yes

(Consider they are the same valves) Page breaks it into TWO columns, one for Intake one for Exhaust.

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Here are some numbers I Pulled from my 1929 Hydrid Head tonight:

Intake & Exhaust Valve

Head Diameter Nominal: unknown

Stem Length: unknown

Stem Dia: .340

Style of Stem Mod: Collar

Valve Lift: ~.217

Spring Details

Outer Dia: 1.323

Wire Dia: .169

Cap Details

Cap OD: ~1.27

Cap Thickness: ~.108

My Numbers for Pictures

Stem Length: ~2.123 Valve Closed

Spring Length: ~1.801 Valve Closed

Compared to the STOCK numbers previously posted in BLUE

Larger Stem Dia

...means valve bores were bored out/ modified to fit new valve stem dia

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Did a Valve Check today...

Removed Rocker Arms and then Measured w/ My Calipers the distance from the machined Head surface to the top of the stem. Surprisingly all are VERY close in Numbers:

Numbers goe with my RED Dims per my Pictures

Cylinder 1 Exhaust:...2.128

Cylinder 1 Intake:....2.128

Cylinder 2 Intake:....2.129

Cylinder 2 Exhaust:...2.129

Cylinder 3 Exhaust:...2.121

Cylinder 3 Intake:....2.103 <-- LOW

Cylinder 4 Intake:....2.136 <-- HIGH

Cylinder 4 Exhaust:...2.121

Cylinder 5 Exhaust:...2.130

Cylinder 5 Intake:....2.128

Cylinder 6 Intake:....2.124

Cylinder 6 Exhaust:...2.123

Cylinder 3 Intake was a little low, but IF they machined the valve seat, maybe this one had LESS material removed ?!? Where as Cylinder 4 Intake maybe had MORE material removed ? ?

Compare this to the Info Posted By Steve that the 1929 had a Stem Length of 2.000, would mean that my valve stems are just 0.125 taller/ longer than stock...

Figure: They SEAL & SEAT, Seem to function Properly...

I can live with that, unless there should be some concern.

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