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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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Did some calculations and layout this morning... Used the information I pulled from my Engine as well as the Info provided by members here. Shaft Centerline is Approx 1.77 Inches above Machined Head Surface.

Based on the STOCK numbers provided by Steve:

Stem Above Head: 2.000

Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open:-1.50 deg

Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:7.50 deg

Illustration and Layout - Stock

Based on the Current Configuration:

Stem Above Head: 2.125 (Avg)

Rocker Arm Angle Valve Open: 2.32 deg

Rocker Arm Angle Valve Closed:11.50 deg

Illustration and Layout - Current

Based on this information going from stock to the current configuration, the Valve Stems are approx .125" higher than stock, which changes the angle of the Rocker Arm by Approx 4 deg. and requires the adjusting screw to be adjusted by approx .11 in. Push Rods remain stock length.

Now does a 4 degree INCREASE on the Rocker Arm ANGLE have that much of an adverse affect on the operation of the engine ?!?

Remember this engine has only been idled by the previous owner, never put under load until i received it. I have put about 5 miles on it, and it seems to run great. Think once i get the rocker arms rebuilt it will be even better.

At this point I am going to leave the Spring Assemblies alone UNLESS there is Concern ?!?

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got Picked Up My Engine Hoist Yesterday, Torin 2 Ton Model...

Getting closer to pulling the Driveline out

Want to make a Wood Stand to sit the Engine in/ On when I remove it. I was thinking to make one to sit the Driveline on the 3 Original Mounting Points, HOWEVER I want to be able to remove the Bell Housing so I can check the flywheel and Clutch disc. So I am Thinking that I can build a Simple Wood Frame Set-Up that I can sit the Drive line down on and support it via the two side rails where the oil pan sits ?!? Figure I would build something like this:1929 Engine Stand/ Mount

Figure I could build this mostly scrap wood from shop, screw it all together and then mount it securely on a 24x48 piece of 3/4" thick or so Plywood. Then I could sit on a set of my Harbor Freight 1000 lb Dollies so that I can push it around and work freely on it.

Was also thinking of putting a small block on the back of the Plywood to support the Transmission WHEN it is bolted on, to reduce the OVERHUNG load and ANY stress it may impose on the Engine and Crankshaft !!

This concept will also allow me to freely work on the front of the engine as well as the top. then also paint everything when re assembled. FULL ACCESS to all except Bottom...

Any thoughts, Input, Ideas, are greatly welcomed and Appreciated... First time doing this with an Antique so not sure of the UNKNOWNS.. NOT YET ANYWAYS !!

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ok, here is what i am thinking of building for my drivetrain, if it will work is another story!!

1929 Engine Stand/ Holder Empty

1929 Engine Stand/ Holder w/ Drivetrain

May need to reinforce the rear end where the Transmission sits, but the dolly under may handle it just fine. considering the transmission will not be on there all the time.

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BearsFan315 I made a very simple stand similar to yours out of 3" steel square tube and 5 3" all metal castors for a '52 Buick inline 8. The two upright arms on the front support the mounts on the motor and a third supports the transmission mount in the rear. it is all open and allows almost unlimited access to all parts of the motor and trans. It rolls well and the valve cover height is about 4' up off the ground. If I remember right the total cost of the stand was $100.00 and the time spent was about 2 hours for cutting, welding and assembling. Castors were new the tube was bought from a local metal recycler. I see nothing wrong with your design for holding,storing or rolling your motor around. I do see problems if you are going to do any serious work on the motor. Just some food for thought. Good luck with your project.

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  • 1 year later...

Well spent some time prepping to remove the drive train in my 1929. Already removed the Manifold assembly and the Carburetor.

First Removed the hood & Radiator. Then started to remove the surrounds.  Removed both side Engine Splash Pans (What a Pain to remove the hardware) Also had to drop & remove the Exhaust to remove the drivers side pan. Also removed front bumper & apron, mainly to gain better access to the front.  Also removed Starter & cable. Disconnected wires to generator and temp sensor.

 

Hoping to get some time to remove the oil pressure line & fuel line. Think that removes all connections to the engine.  Need to cut out my blank off plate so i can remove the transmission top cover. then will need to Disconnect speedo cable, unbolt transmission from cross shaft, and then unbolt the rear cover of the u-joint housing.

 

Final step will be to unbolt the drive train from the frame. cardboard up the firewall for protection. and get ready to pull it out !!

A Lot of work but first time doing this so taking my time and trying to be safe and precarious !!

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Got the drivetrain pulled, and went to remove the fan blade and noticed that ONE of the bolts holding it in was not securely tightened. When i went to remove it it just snapped off !!  the other one came out easily.

 

Also noticed that the pulley had 4 tapped holes. Are four tapped holes in the pulley correct for a 1929 Pulley, considering it has a 2 blade fan ??

 

I was thinking of just swapping and bolting in the other two holes in the pulley but Looking closer it looks like one of the other tapped holes also has a broke off bolt !!  

 

Know to remove the pulley you have to remove pump and press it off.  any thoughts ?>? seems only solution is to remove pump press off pulley and drill and tap out broken bolts...

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I did debate on upgrading to the Maintenance Free Water Pump a while back so will revisit that aspect as well. Also saw that you can get a Replacement Pulley for about $30 plus shipping from The Filling Station. 

Going to play with the Pulley and see IF i can drill it out and tap it. Fun part will be keeping the Pulley From turning.

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Went out and pulled the pulley off, thanks to my neighbor and his collection of pullers.  Was a pretty easy job with the right tool, used a 4" 3 jaw puller.

 

Then removed all the hardware holding the cover on, then gently with a small putty knife worked my way around the edges to break the seal of the RTV... WHAT A PAIN !! Head on Shot

 

Spent some time cleaning up the cover & the face of the block
Cover Underside
Cover Topside

 

Anyone Identify this, looks like a seal of the sorts.  It spins around
Seal ?!

 

Also is this the oiler ? Oiler Pict 1?
Oiler Pict 2?

 

This is a close up of the Timing Gear, Looks like it is pretty new, so figuring it was replaced on the engine overhaul.
Timing Gear Close Up 1
Timing Gear Close Up 2

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OK, finally back into the car again, nice weather and some time...

 

Trying to figure out how to mount/ install the thrower
Thrower, Crankshaft Oil.............835603

 

Here is how it was mounted/ installed when i removed the cover:
Flinger

 

is this correct, it has a keyway slot in it.  does not seem right.

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looking at what color scheme to do the interior. have seen both the tan interior palette & the green for my body paint scheme. the tan looks REALLY nice, and the Green is well, way too much green. nothing like green on green on green with a side of green. wish there was a grey I think that might actually look pretty nice !!

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I have the Swatches and price sheet from Hampton Coach now LeBaron Bonney. great people to deal with and talk to. 

To have more fun, I have an early 1929

Based on LB/HC Options are:
...Tan A-803
...Blue 13-LM
...Green 4-LM

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Looking at handles for my 1929 4 Door that Ted is working on.  Doing my research on Proper Window handles for the Rear Quarter Windows.

Here is what I have in the car now:
Quarter Window handles in Car NOW

 

These were in the car when I got it, and show their age, pitted, cracked, crumbling. Classic T- Style handle.

So when looking for new one, I checked out The Filling Stations website, and found they listed these for the 1929 Quarter Windows. Part No GR-485 TFS Quarter Window Handles

 

These are Shortened Window handles, same ones used on the Windshield.  Talking to the guys there they say THESE are the CORRECT ones for the 1929, when I asked about mine having the T handles, they said someone must have swapped them out years ago. But the GR-485 is CORRECT for the 1929.

 

Now when I talk with Gary or Lonny they say the T handles are correct.

 

Can you guys assist me with the Correct ones so i can get them ordered.

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Now could ONE use the Shortened Windshield Handle and it work ??

   seems the sourcing for the handles is SLIM PICKING, mainly the T-Style and the Locking Exterior Handles.

I know TFS and those places list them, BUT none in stock and NOT sure IF they will get anymore in as they are looking for new sources.

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as most of you know my car, 1929 Chevrolet 4 Door, is up In Mass with Ted [Chistech]. he is doing some structural work as well as the roof and interior. While it is away i was to be reworking the Drivetrain. Pull the engine & Transmission, strip down, clean up paint, put on rebuilt Rocker Arm Assemblies, new push rods, caps, etc...

 

Well i finally got around to working on it, yeah been about 6 months.

Started blasting some parts, priming and then painting. 

 

Round one was the pedals:
Pedal 01
Pedal 02
Pedal 03
Pedal Primed 01

 

Doing 2 coats of primer, then 2 top coats of Gloss Black

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Blasted a few more parts today...

 

   machine was fixed and cleaned, and now works like a champ, took me 20 minutes to blast and clean all these parts to bare metal !!

1929 2 Blade Fan
I did my best to straighten it out and such BEFORE Blasting, so When i Paint it should be OK
Fan Blade

 

Misc Brackets for: Splash Pan, Carburetor, & Radiator Elbow
Misc Parts 01
Misc Parts 02

 

1929 Air Cleaner
1929 Air Cleaner 01
1929 Air Cleaner 02
1929 Air Cleaner 03

 

Tonight will be prime and paint... Assuming all are Gloss Black :)

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OK, since i am blasting and paint parts I have completed most of the small general components for the engine. I am moving on to larger assemblies/ components. Horn, Generator, Starter, etc...

 

Horn is topic of this Discussion:

I have a Klaxon 8C and was wondering about best way to go about rebuilding/ painting it.  it works great no issues, but missing paint and such.

Should I:
1- Just rough sand the surface and cone, then apply a few fresh top coats of gloss black paint ??

2- tear it down, strip it to bear metal, prime, paint, cure, reassemble ? and if so anything i should be weary of or know before tearing it apart and breaking it down. looks to be pretty simple in build and components.

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Well got home today and started to analyze the horn, there is some rust on the inside of the horn and at the base...

so part it will come, clean, blasted, primed, painted

clean up the guts, oil the bearings, assembly and test :)

hopefully it well look good and sound good !!

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Gasket Question:

there are 3 gaskets in the horn

1- Two of the same shape, size, & material: one on each side of the diaphragm. One was destroyed on removal, the other one came out in one piece. this is great so that i can replicate and make 2 new ones.  what MATERIAL should they be made out of ??  they look like a paper material. I was thinking of using Fel-Pro Karropak but how thick ?? 1/16 or 1/32 or 1/64 ??

2- Gasket between the Mounting Plate with the Electronics & Motorand the rear cap. This one came out whole, but was rolled, looks to be rubber like, black in color. can i use a thin rubber material to make the gasket or what material would be best here.

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As you know I have been tearing down my engine, painting pieces and parts. I am now ready to start work on the Manifold Assemblies. I laid it  out on the bench for disassembly and pictures. this way I have some before and after.

 

Manifold Assembly
Manifold Assembly 01
Manifold Assembly 02
Manifold Assembly 03
Manifold Assembly 04
Manifold Assembly 05
Manifold Assembly 06
Manifold Assembly 07
Manifold Assembly 08 

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