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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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ok, so how does the Steering Column Grommet get installed.


Steering Grommet Top
Steering Grommet Bottom

Does the Raised Surface (TOP) FACE the INSIDE or the OUTSIDE of the Car (Engine Bay)

Does the LONG Side go up or down ?? (the side with the extra rubber between column hole and outside edge)

 

Does it come in contact with the Metal Plates that goes on the Toe Board  and Fire Wall ??

Raised Face Up - Under Metal Plates
Raised Face Down - Under Plates
Raised Face Up - On top Metal Plates

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if it goes above, then it has to go over the mat. which looks ok, if you ever have to remove the toe board, you have to move grommet, mat, then parts.
but then any water from below gets in between the metal and mat up to grommet
if it goes under, then it is remove mat, then toe board, and done.water would hit grommet and disperse, as long as grommet was tight against the metal.

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Jerry, Attached is a picture of an original 31 ground cable. The 1932 catalog shows this fitting 29-32. Overall length is 6.5, notice the bowtie on the bottom of the terminal. I think I may run an additional heavy cable from the battery bolt to one of the starter bolts to be sure of a good ground.

 

Dave

 

 

battery cable 31 bow tie.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

a while ago we talked about the oil line brackets for the engine, several people posted pictures and info about their brackets. i made a few rough ones, i recently got a nice mini bender and made a few pieces that re very nice and look great and will work great. just need to set up press to drill holes in them !!

 

I used aluminum to set up my bender and tooling, since it is CHEAPER and EASIER to roll and bend.
Aluminum Oil Line Bracket 01
Aluminum Oil Line Bracket 02
Aluminum On Oil Line

 

Once i got the tooling set up I made one out of Steel !!
Steel Oil Line Bracket 01
Steel Oil Line Bracket 02
Steel On Oil Line

 

I hope to set up Drill and put the hole in them to test fit, then will paint and install the Steel one on my 1929.

 

The aluminum is lighter and easier to bend, the steel one is RIGID. when you install them you can easily tighten the aluminum around the oil line, the steel one not possibly with OUT pliers, then you have to be careful NOT to pinch the line !! then trying to get it off later, that would be fun !! I am trying to make it more of a support where i can snap in the line and go with it.  

 

If anyone is interested I have some spare aluminum strips and steel strips and would be willing to make one for anyone interested. granted they would NOT be exact replicas. BUT based on pictures I personally think they will look CORRECT and Serve their purpose WELL !! May need to be adjusted and tuned when you get it to fit correctly !!

 

PM Me if interested, figure just pay for material and shipping, I Will bend and drill them, they will be bare metal and require painting and fitting. Either Aluminum or Steel.

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was tinkering around last night while tweaking my oil line bracket.

 

I digitized the 1929 Chevrolet Logo off my car and exported it for 3d Printing.Loaded it up in the Printer Loaded in some PLA and let it rip...

 

Actually Came out pretty good. All i had was black, so will need to tinker with some paint and see how it comes out.

1929 Chevrolet Logo 3d Print 01
1929 Chevrolet Logo 3d Print 02

 

Just thought I would share, Love Technology and These Old Chevrolets, so combine them when i Can !!

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got my wiper motor all ready to go, gonna paint it this week and hopefully install it soon.

was wondering HOW/ WHAT hardware to mount it to the header ? I see there are Three holes in the metal across the top above the vacuum port coming out. and on the b racket there are 3 countersunk holes that match up. What is USED to mount the bracket to the header ?? and What size/ length ?? scanned through my manuals and MPL did not see anything in there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well i made up new cables, used 1/0 cable cloth wrapped from Rhode Island Wiring, bought the Fusion (Pre Solder) connectors and clamps.

 

The cables from Rhode Island were very nice, I had them pre cut the cables to my lengths, no charge. since i have no way to cleanly cut 1/0 cable. read the instructions and watch a few videos on how to solder on the connectors. they went on pretty easy and looked great, then used from electrical heat shrink to seal them up and clean them up a bit.

 

Fusion Connectors
Solder inside the Clamp

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had no way on hand to heat up and shrink the tubing, so ventured over to a fellow AACA members house and used his heat gun to shrink the Tubing

 

Cables Ready for Install
Cable End Close Up
Cloth wrap on Cable Close Up

 

They came out really nice and I am happy with them.

 

The LONG cable is for the starter. the other two are for ground. one from frame rail to disconnect switch, one from disconnect switch to battery

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I am installing a disconnect switch as well. this way i can disconnect the battery from ground when in storage, also will hard wire charging cable to the battery clamps. this will make it easier to access and charge the battery while installed.

 

Pictures of the Disconnect Switch
Battery Disconnect Switch
Disconnect Switch Posts

 

I plan to mount it just under the passenger seat in the floor wood. 
Disconnect Switch Location
...would be top right in this picture, this allows for easy access and it is out of the way of feet and getting in and out.

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I plan to mount it under the wood, so only the center post of the Switch will be visible, and can place the key or cap on it when needed.
however the post was way to long and stuck way above the wood, so i needed a way to lower the switch and securely mount it. 3d Printing to the rescue, i designed a spacer and printed it out in PLA on my handy dandy 3d desktop printer. 

 

Switch and 3d Printed Spacer
Top view of Spacer
the holes line up perfectly and fits nicely.

 

Test fir of swtich and Spacer
Top view of Test Fit
With key installed
When it gets permanently installed i will use machine screws, flat head slotted so they will sit flush with the wood.

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On 6/20/2018 at 3:55 PM, Spinneyhill said:

I am impressed with the clarity of your 3D printout. Did you scan take much cleaning up to get into that state?

i did NOT scan it, i did it digitally from a picture in AutoCAD

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spent some time working on the Floor Wood. I spent a week or so trying to match up finishes and colors on what Ted (Chistech) di on the Oak he installed under the seat. After many tries and not getting close I threw in the towel and pulled the seat, sanded and stripped the piece of wood and then put 3 coats of Helmsman on it and the Floor Board & Toe Boards. I put on a coat, let it sit 12 hours, lightly sanded with 220 sand paper, then applied another coat. 

 

have to say that it came out really nice, probably too nice. 2 coats would have sufficed, but directions said 3 to seal... I also used the Satin finish, did NOT want a shiny coat.

Ted Board Refinished with 3 Coats Helmsman
Close Up

 

Floor Board Top Side
Toe Board Top Side

I will let them CURE for the next few days then install them and secure them for now

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Lots of great work here... car looks like its coming together well! I've got a '29 sedan coming that's an older restoration and i'll be doing alot of what you've done if it sticks around long enough. Love the color of your sedan!

 

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Well started assembling the parts back on the Floor/ Toe Board for my 1929

 

Toe Board 01 Front
Toe Board 01 Back

 

Toe Board 02 Front
Toe Board 02 Back

 

got this all ready to go back in, had to touch up some paint on the frame rail and clean up the area for the ground cable to connect to the frame rail. once that is all done and dried i will install all the floor wood.

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got the wood all stripped down, then applied 3 coats of Helmsman to it. ooh does it look nice, yes i used satin did NOT want the bowling ally shine !!

 

Disconnect from underneath car

Disconnect from Top Side

 

Disconnect  Switch

this is permanent install, well at least I hope. used flat head, slotted screws and countersunk holes for clean install. the switch was installed just high enough to get the key in and turn it and NOT rub the wood or interfere. it is also slightly tucked under the front seat, hopefully out of the way of anyone and everyone feet !!

Touched up the paint on the battery tray and around where i ground off the paint on the frame rail for the ground cable and hardware. i want to make sure i have a GOOD SOLID GROUND !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Power Cable from Battery to Starter

 

Top Down Look of New Cables

 

Ground Bolt Outside Frame Rail

 

These cables are pretty rigid, but will Flex if needed. I plan to FULLY Tighten down the connection on the starter and Disc Switch ONCE the battery is in and Cables Routed and Secured. Need to be able to swivel the lug on the Bolt to get the proper Angle !!  May just toss the battery in and fine tune them to be certain. that way there is no more adjusting and configuring later. Battery will go in and stay in after that. will connect charge cables to the battery connectors for ease of access and use.

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been installing my new floor and wood, and got the mat installed so put in the accelerator pedal. thought i would follow up on the anti-rattle spring with some pictures of my install.

 

Accelerator Rod, Spring, Washer
small spring from my local hardware store, 1/4 SAE Flat Washer

 

Accelerator Rod Installed through Carburetor

 

Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Front

 

Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Rear

 

Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Top

 

Not sure if this is 100% correct, but it seems to hold together and fit Nicely. The Return Spring goes around the front bolt/ stud of Exhaust Manifold.

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  • 2 weeks later...

due to inclement weather and not being home a lot lately due to work I am shifting gears to keep things moving on my 1929 Restoration.

Looking at Data Plates/Tags:
looks like all of them were hand stamped with the numbers/ info

1-ID Data Plate: DP-29
Original one: gone when I got the car
--Where is it located in/on the car ?!?
--CAR NUMBER is the Engine Serial Number ?? 
--How is it secured to Car ??


2-Generator Tag:   RW-29
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 943J
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing


3-Starter Generator Tag:   RW-29
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 714L
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing


4-Distributor Tag:   RW-30
Original one: has lost color and beat up
--MODEL is 833G
--SERIAL NUMBER to Match existing

any and all help/pictures would be appreciated. I plan to order the Plates/ Tags from TFS this weekend.

ID Data Plate DP-29.PNG

Starter-Generator Tag RW-29.PNG

Distributor Tag RW-30.PNG

Edited by BearsFan315
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think i found the location of the original PLATE !!! Right Sill Assembly, at the seam of the front cross seal and the removable floor board. Found 2 nails in the Sill, then 2 holes where nails used to be ?!?
Serial Number/Data Plate Nails 01
Serial Number/Data Plate Nails Close Up

 

20180729_101238.jpg

passenger sill 

 

20180729_101224.jpg

close up of sill where existing nails can be seen in red circles

Edited by BearsFan315
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not sure of the manufacture plant/facility car was in Central Indiana as far back as I can trace History for it. 

 

Info/Pictures I have:

Engine:Pict01
Casting Date: E__1__9
Cast No: 835501
Bowtie: 12
Serial No:653xxx

 

IMG_20130819_200959.jpg

 

Transmission:Pict01 Pict02  Pict03
Casting Date: 
Cast No: 59031  
Letter under Casting: B
Serial No:AV387xx

 

20170211_143625.jpg

 

20170328_183807.jpg

 

20170328_185358.jpg

 

Rear End Housing:Pict01 Pict02  
Casting Date: 
Cast No: 352287
Serial No:1476xxx

 

20180729_110931.jpg

 

20180729_110956.jpg

 

Anything more please let me know, and appreciate the help with this.

Edited by BearsFan315
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a little ecstatic at the moment, was scamming through an envelope PO gave me with some pictures and in there was:
1-Driver License of Owner from 1940
...cool paper license with name, age, race, eyes, on the front, then on the back, a reminder to use proper hand signals when driving with graphic of each :)
2-Fisher Body Tag
...goes on the passenger side front corner
3-Serial Number Plate
...rough looking but think i can make out the info !!

Serial Number Plate
Serial Number Plate - Car Number

 

Looks to be 9 AC 42xxx

 

which would put it Norwood, OH Facility ?!? and a 1929 Chevrolet ;)

20180729_203958.jpg

original data plate found in envelope

 

20180729_204124.jpg

close up showing factory model and serial number

Edited by BearsFan315
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Location of those nails look about right to me Jerry. Check the spacing against the data plate. Great that you found the original plate also. Went back through some things on my Olds and Chevy a while back while cleaning up the garage and found some of those same exact treasures.

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  • 1 month later...

Also talked with a gentleman that had an ad in the VCCA magazine, and ordered a NEW Fisher Body Tag, have to say WOW !!

 

He did a great job and from the time i sent the info and check till i received the tag back was less than 2 weeks !!

 

20180819_155759.jpg

Original Fisher Body Tag

 

20180902_140021.jpg

NEW Fisher Body Tag

 

20180902_140031.jpg

Contact Info w/ my new Tag

Link: DataTags Website

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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