BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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Keep plugging away Jerry. How is the motor coming? it will be good to see your car on the your so you and your family can enjoy it. Are you shooting for this summer for completion?

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Thanks Ted, Trans first, then on to the motor...

 

Waiting for the Hardware to arrive, then i can start to reassemble the Trans and components. Then I will start to work on the Engine, tear down and clean it up, then paint it up. Hopefully be able to start put it all back together and get it in the car...

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The 1930 Dodge 8 engine was painted fully assembled, including the water pump and valve covers and the manifolds. There was a bit of overspray on the exhaust manifold that burnt off quickly. So the valve covers and push rod covers were painted separately when they assembled Chev's? This would be extra cost...

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Chevrolet did the same, but I am doing them in pieces. 

 

This way everything will be coated and protected, look nice and I will feel good about it all :)

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worked on my front end for reinstall of the driveline soon.  where there was a coolant leak, seems it ate the paint of several places, plus a few bad spots on the frame itself.

Cleaned it up, prepped surface, then primed, and will apply 2 cost of top coat on it.

Front Cross Bar cleaned up
Bad spot inside frame rail
Stearing Linkage

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while tearing down the 1929 Engine, and getting ready for reassembly decided to tear down and rebuild the Fuel Pump, figure at least replace the diaphragm with a Ethanol Version.

here is what it looked like before the rebuild when engine was removed:

1929 Fuel Pump

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All the small details add so much time to our restorations for sure. Just keep plugging along Jerry, the end of the tunnel is near!

 

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Looks great! Out of curiousity (and ignorance) would these have ever been painted?

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working on putting my 1929 Engine back together, i removed all the old tappets and replaced them with a new set from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) ordered all the goodies including new gaskets for the Push Rod Cover.
Old Tappets Removed
New set of Tappets from C&P
they were cleaned as per included instructions, then i applied a coat of 50/50 motor oil & STP to help them slide into place as well as preserve them until the engine is fired back up and libricated via oil.
Looking down into a NEW Tappet

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The Gasket kit i Acquired from an Estate Sale actually has CORK Gasket for the Push Rod Cover, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan !! 

I installed a thin coat of Permatex No 2 to the Push Rod Cover, installed the Gasket and lined it up, then a thin coat of Permatex on the Gasket and Installed the Cover to the Engine, aligned it and Secure it in place with hardware.

Dry Fit of Cork Gasket
Thin Coat of Permatex No 2 w/ Cork Gasket Installed
Cover Installed and Secured to Engine Side
Side View of Gasket Sealed

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Installing the Throwout Bearing into the Clutch Fork, there is a Clutch Fork Spring that goes in and Holds the Bearing in place and allows it to rotate to stay flat against the Clutch Throwout Bearing Sleeve. 

I bought NEW springs from TFS and this is what they look like installed. 

They do not sit flush or go all the way in
Spring Install Top
Notice the recess looks, like pin should sit in to stay, pin is in far as it will go
Spring Install Side 1
another view of spring
Spring Install Side 2
If i pull the spring out so the first bulge sits in the recess on the fork. it feels sloppy like the spring will just pop out. NOT securely seated.

Original Springs
notice the shape of the original spring.

Here is the Original Spring (TOP) vs the NEW Spring (Bottom) Spring Comparison

Original Spring Installed 
Original Spring Install Depth 
Notice that spring installed that the depth of the spring goes in a good ways and sits secured

New Spring Installed 
New Spring Install Depth
notice only about 1/4" goes in

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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