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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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As most of you know i got my Engine and Transmission back in the 1929 Frame. now comes the fun part of installing all the accessories and parts that bolt on the engine.

All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Starter

Splash Pans were installed first, First up on the list was the starter:
  Engine Trans Housing Where Strater Mounts
  Starter Installed w/ Starter Pedal Assembly
Side View Of Starter & Redal Assembly

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Once the Starter was secured, Next up was the Generator & Adjustment Arm. The Belt was also installed to assist with installation and proper adjustment of the Generator.
All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Generator
Side View of Generator Installed
  Front View of Engine w/ Generator Installed

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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After the Generator was secured and Adjusted, I decided to install the NEW C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Push Rods & Caps in prep for the rebuilt Rocker Arm Assembly to go in.
  C&P Automotive Push Rods & Caps  C&P Automotive Caps Up Close
They come sealed in an airtight back with a light coat of oil on them to keep them protected.
  Push Rods and Caps Installed
I also Installed NEW C&P Automotive Tappets, when i installed the Push Rod Cover.

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Once the Push Rods & Caps were installed next up was the Rocker Arm Assembly. I had the COMPLETE Rocker Arm Assembly rebuilt via   Rocker Arms Unlimited out in CA. These guys are very knowledgeable about the vintage Chevrolets. They have all the equipment and tools to do the job right, including creating the correct contour on the Rocker arm tips !! I worked w/ Gary out there, and he took care of me in every aspect. Read more and see Pictures of their work in previous Posts here.

Wicks Installed
  Wicks Installed Close Up
  Rocker Arms Installed w/ Rods & Wicks
  Wicks Instaleld w/ Caps Close Up

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After the Rocker Arms, I set the valves, this took some time, as i checked and double checked to make sure that they were set correctly with Piston 1 @ TDC.

Once that was done Next to go in was the Distributor:
  Distributor Installed
NEW Hardware was used here as well

I also took the time to set the points gap and then double check that while here as well. I am trying to get all the critical items COLD SET so that when i am ready i can try and fire the engine with little or NO issues... CROSSING MY FINGERS !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

i had to do the .060 shims under the posts because PO installed aftermarket, later year valves and they are taller than the stock, and they cut the push rods down to compensate.   1929 Head Check - Valves

so when i put int he rebuild arms, and then the NEW C&P Push Rods & Caps, when i tightened down the bolts to hold the arms in, it pressed open all the valves. even if i removed the adjusters from the arms. this was the only way i could get it to work. based on my math it worked out just fine. will see how it does once i get it running up and to temp and HOT Set the valves.

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i checked my belt and ordered a NOS Dayco #24380 17A0965 per an article on here about belts. It is NON Wrapped, NON cogged Belt Made in the USA.

It is shorter that the GATES that the PO had installed.
  Dayco 24380 in Wrap
  Dayco 24380 Close Up Side View
  Dayco 24380 Close up Stamp
  Dayco 24380 V Close Up

Installed the belt
  Engine Front View Dayco
notice the angle from before to now
  Engine Front View Gates

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well used the KBS Clean and soaked the tank, did this until the flush water ran clear, which was only 1 trip. water came out a little rusty color, but not bad. 

now to clean up the Float, paint up the back, and then put it all together. i am going to repaint the tank while i have it out.

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talked to the gasket maker today, he is willing to cut me some Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank Gage, and Fuel Tank Filler Cap
I Did the CAD Work, and he will cut them on the Water Jet, I just have to pay for the Material. 
Anyone else interested in Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank ? would be 2 for the Gage end, each side of the glass, and then a new one for the inside of the Gas Cap. Total of 3 in the Set, doing 2 at .062 thick, then one at .125" thick. one of the .062 is for the Cap.
Viton should be a better material for the Ethanol, at least in chemical compatibility, or could do a Buna-N Cork Gasket Set.

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Trying to figure out the trick to installing the Spring in the hand brake, i bought it from TFS #FS-136, got the little picture and understand it no problem. I am not able to get the spring in per the diagram. 

Spring is really tight and been kicking my butt. to the point i have ruined the paint on the lever and handle trying to get it in there.

Is there a trick to easy way to install the spring per the diagram ??

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ok guys here is what i did, and man it was easy and went together like nothing.  hope this helps anyone doing this themselves.

i removed the bottom bolt that holds the prawl and lever w/ lock. removed the prawl, and then pulled the rod out of the way of the handle.  i then put the spring in the handle the way it goes, per the Filling Station diagram. then put the other end of the spring through the hole in the brake handle where it goes, then clipped on my needle nose vise grips, and pulled the handle and spring up and into place, and put in the first bolt to hold the handle in position. then gently release the spring from the vise grips. could also use something else to hold if needed.

  Brake Spring Install Pict 1

Needle Nose Close Up

  Spring in position, Bolt 1 secured.

Overall Picture of position i used to install Spring
ignore the tape, it held the handle while i touched up paint :)

Then you can flip the prawl lock and lever back around, put it in position install prawl and install bolt, then install the end of the lever in the handle and install hardware. consider it done !!

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this was really easy and takes maybe five minutes, or maybe it took me 5, because i had been fighting it for days and figure this method out !!

IF is it in the car, not sure you can do it this way. but it is easy to remove and well worth the time to make this easy on yourself !!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ordered some lacing from TFS, and finally got it in. Took my time and removed the old, looks Original lacing from the radiator and Cowl. Going to strip down and prime/ paint the black sections of the radiator/ support before i lace it back up. Removing all those little rivets was a pain. Removing the lacing from the cowl was pretty easy, i removed it in reverse of the installation instructions.

Now on installing the Lacing on the Cowl, How far/ close towards the center brace/ pin should i take the fabric on the lacing ??
Looking at this   Cowl Lacing picture, you can see that the lacing fabric was past the third hole out from the center. so about 1.5-2 inches. is this correct or should i put the fabric all the way to the metal when i push the core through and bend it over ??   Lacing all the way in & up  or   lacing out from the center past third hole 

how is everyone else doing it ?? the   TFS  instructions do not spec out how or where to do the fabric on top the cowl

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Was really easy to do, only pain was pulling that wire back on itself up through the top of the cowl, too some convincing and working, but got it done.  have to say it looks really nice, I am really happy with it. 

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Stripped, primed, and painted the bottom of the radiator shroud, as well as part of the radiator brackets/ housing.
Then installed the Lacing on the Radiator. this was really easy followed TFS instructions they sent, and went smoothly.

First Part of Lacing Lined up and Installed
  First Side Complete
  Back Side of Rivets
  Second Side On, and View of the Top

This Lacing went on super easy, and I am very happy with the outcome.

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Wondering if anyone has any pictures/ layouts of HOW the wiring and cables are routed, where and how they are secured along the firewall, and where they go through the firewall or how they go. 

Trying to get the spaghetti and cluster fudge under the dash and on the firewall inside cleaned up. they just ran wires/ cables where ever !! 

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Thanks to Bare Feet for the reference Photos, i spent about 1.5 hours last night starting to work on cleaning up under the dash & firewall.

I reinstalled the Speedo that I had JY Dog Fix for me, Thanks !!  Replaced all the misc mixed up screws under there. and then started cleaning up the wiring.
  Speedo Installed and Wires Straightened Out

Passenger Side
Notice the 2 Black Wires, looks like they go to the dome light switch

How and where are these guys routed ?? do not see them in the reference Photos ?? looks like the are along the sill plate coming from the back pillar, then they are just hanging from there up to the back of the dash.

Does this look correct for the Passenger side so far ??

Will start on the Drivers Side Next. Install the Speedo cable and secure that to the firewall as well.

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  • 2 months later...

Working on routing my wires under the dash as well as the Speedo Cable. Thanks to Bare Feet, looks like the Speedo goes down the back center of the firewall through a hold down w/ bolt. but WHERE does it go from there ??

does it go behind the pedals (between pedal rod and radiator side), or in front of pedals (between pedal rod and brake cross bar). are there ANY other hold downs/ clamps on the cable ??

any pictures of the proper routing would be appreciated. unfortunately the PO did not have it hooked up properly and it was hanging in limbo.

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Ok, removed the hardware and got the Bracket off...

Speedo Bracket 1
  Speedo Bracket 2

So I installed it per the info and pictures above
  Speedo Bracket Installed from Below

Installed the Cable & Clip per the info from JY Dog above
  Clip & Cable Installed

  Speedo Cable Routing
  Speedo Install - Top Half Close Up
  Speedo Install - Lower Half Close Up

This is HOW I ROUTED the Speedo cable. does this look correct ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Getting ready to reinstall the Radiator and such and wondering HOW the wires run down the rail up front. 

On the drivers side do they run up along the top inside of the rail over the steering box or down low under the box ?? I understand that the center hood Bumper also has a wire holder ?? where else is the wire held or secured ?!? 

Pictures would be nice !!

  Drivers Rail by Steering Box

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various areas ?? assume they are long the TOP of the Frame rail ?
where ? do they mount on other items or solo mounted ?? (do they mount on the backside of the hood latch mounting hardware)

Here is the routing I have as of now:
Wire Bundle down Fire Wall thru Floor Board
Wire Bundle down past Floor Board
There is ONE Clip holding hte bundle on the wall under the Floor Board

Where to Put in the Clamps Down the Rail
  Screw 1
Screw/ washer on top rail near cross member, put clamp under top rail, This would be a TIGHT hard turn to secure the Wire Bundle into the Wire Clamp if I used this Screw, other two holes on right are outside frame rail.
  Frame Rail Center Hood Bumper
This is where the center Hood Bumper goes, also understand that a Wire Clamp goes here as well. Assume it mounts on the inside of the rail and Down to hold the bundle.
Inside Frame Rail
Can see the hole where center Hood Bumper Goes top center. not sure what the hole in frame rail near the steering box is for ? two of the three holes on the right hold the Horn (Back two holds), the other hole farthest right ?? not a clue.

Wire Clamps across the front of the Cross Frame Rail
Clamp on the Right
this clamp is on the right where the wire clamp comes down the frame rail
Clamp in center cross rail under Pulley
Wire clamp in cross rail right under Crankshaft Pulley
Clamp on left of cross rail

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Looks like I need a second clamp on the Bundle right after it comes through the floor board. I have one, but per the pict there is two. I need to add in the upper one. Then I need to add one more in to the unpainted screw (Screw 1). 

I have TFS #GR-237, which has a Wire Clamp, that goes under the frame rail. so this would be support number two.

Then it looks like there is a clamp in this photo as well this is where the bundle breaks off to the generator and the lights. but it looks like it is actually clamped onto the end of the metal armor cable vs the actual wire bundle.

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