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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project


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Finally got all my wiring done and horn mounted so next step was to install the radiator.  I Used the TFS Kit FS-511.

Install was easy and i aligned and ensured that it was plum and square. Also installed the Support Brace. NO HOOD at this time, I will go back and install the hood once i get it running and all tuned up. Lots of hassle going back and forth side to side with the hood on.

  Radiator & Brace Installed
  Front Angle View  

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Need to finish up on the Drivetrain, Hoses, Clamps, Electrolock. Exhaust strip, prime & paint high heat, install and secure. Double check brakes, front, rear, new trunions, and reset. repair rear spare tire carrier, strip, prime, paint, install. Electrical, chase all wires, secure, possible turn signal routing and lighting, rebuild brake light housing and guts. install headlight bar, stanchions, wire it all up. floor boards and rubber mat. then sure i am missing or forgetting something, once together will fire it up and tune it in, then a few test runs, and work up to duration. want to have it ready for out local spring square car tour. lots to do and NO time to do it.

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Finally got all my wiring done and horn mounted so next step was to install the radiator.  I Used the TFS Kit FS-511.

Install was easy and i aligned and ensured that it was plum and square. Also installed the Support Brace. NO HOOD at this time, I will go back and install the hood once i get it running and all tuned up. Lots of hassle going back and forth side to side with the hood on.

  Radiator & Brace Installed
  Front Angle View

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orking on putting my Electrolock Back in my 1929. Got the Tech Sheet with all the parts, order of Assembly and instructions. 

Questions i Have:
1- Does Item 6, which looks to be a split lock washer go inside the Ferrule number 5 or does it sit up against the ferrule. 

2- Item 7 Slip Fiber Bushing, looks like it goes through the wall of the distributor to isolate the electrolock shaft from grounding out. does it go into the ferrule end as well or does it but up against the split washer from question 1 ? 

I have all the pieces to assemble but does not seem to go all back together tightly. right now Item 7 Slip Fiber Bushing sits against teh Ferrule and slides in through the Distributor. I align the pin on the ferrule to the hole in the distributor.

  Electrolock Assembled

  Electrolock Parts Disassembled
This is what i took apart, I added in the second lock washer Item 6. The Spacing is where the Condenser, Distributor, and Points go.

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Ok here is a step by step picture by picture of my attempt to reassemble the electrolock in my 1929... Hopefully guys on here with knowledge and experience will correct me on anything i have done wrong (I hope)

 

This is where I started, here is the Threaded end of the Electrolock that goes into the Distributor. I Cleaned up and chased the threads.   Distributor End of Electrolock

 

Took and placed the Fiber Washer (No Item Number, so Item 0) up to the face as far as it would go.   Fiber Washer (Item 0) w/ Serrated Hole

 

Then placed on the Steel Spiral Lock Washer (Item 1) all the way to the Serrated Hole Fiber Washer.   Spiral Lock Washer (Item 1) Installed

 

Next placed the Fiber Bushing (Item 7) in the End of the Ferrule (Item 5), and ensured that it would install flush on the inside of the Distributor.
Fiber Bushing (Item 7) Installed and Test Fitted
Validated Flush Fit inside Distributor

 

Install the Fiber Washer (Item 4) into the Ferrule (Item 5) and make sure it is flush against face of Ferrule. should also center up around the Fiber Bushing (Item 7) Previously installed.   Fiber Washer (Item 4) installed

Placed the Flat Steel Washer (Item 3) in the Ferrule (Item 5) centered and up against the Fiber Washer (Item 4). when trying to do this i found it a LOT easier to sit the Flat Steel Washer (Item 3) on the center of the Threads of the Electrock Cable.   Steel Washer (Item 3) in Ferrule

 

Slowly and gently slide on the Ferrule Assembly from above onto the end of the Electrolock Shaft, DO NOT slide it all the way on, just barely onto the threads. so you can look in the slot of the ferrule (Item 5) and see the Steel Washer (Item 4) to the right, and the Split Lock Washer (Item 1) to the left. You will have to slide the condenser connection in between if you used a Split/ Fork Type Connector, if using the Ring type, you will slide that on the Electrolock Shaft BEFORE sliding on the assembly from above.   Assembly ON Electrolock Cable You can see the gap and Washers Clearly.

 

I then slid in the Condenser Wire Connector (Item 2), this HAS to go in between the 2 Steel Washers, Item 1 and Item 3.   Condenser Wire Installed. No matter what Style Connector you use on the Condenser, this is what it should look like so far.

 

I then slid on the   Custom Made Washer (Item 6) this is simply a 3/8 Internal Tooth Washer that I used a file to made a slot for the Ferrule Pin to go.   Washer (Item 6) Installed Notice the Pin fits in the slot I made on the washer.

 

This Assembly now should go into the Distributor, made sure the Pins is aligned with the slot in the Distributor Wall. The Fiber Bushing (Item 7) should go through the hole and mount flush, the Electrolock Shaft should go all the way through.
Electrock Cable Assembly and Pin Lined Up
Assembly all Together   
Note Pin lines up and Goes into Hole in Distruibutor

 

Now install the Fiber washer (Item 8) I made it out of Rubber Gasket Material, as it is NOT Conductive and easy to cut. This must cover the leg of the Points and keep it from touching the Distributor wall. make sure it is on all the way against the Distributor Wall. Fiber Gasket (Item 8) Installed

 

Next installed the "L" Shaped Fiber Gasket (Item 9) onto the shaft against Fiber Gasket (Item 8) with the leg down on on the Plate. This Gasket seems to keep the Nut and Washers from touch the plate and grounding out.   Fiber L Gasket (Item 9) Installed

 

Then install the Steel Plate (Item 10), make sure you install so the curvature matches inside the the Distributor Wall. this goes up against the 2 Fiber Washers (Item 8) & (Item 9)   Steel Plate (Item 10) Installed  

 

Now Install the Points (Item 11), make sure the Arm is against the Fiber Gasket (Item 8) and (Item 9).   Points Installed (Item 11)

Install the final part, the Nut (Item 12) I have a standard #10 Nut, lot easy to get on and off and NO special Tools Required.   Nut (Item 12) Installed

 

All left to do is tighten up the nut to secure the cable and parts in place. I tightened it up till snug, then a 1/4 turn to secure in place. 
  Completed Install 01

 

Let me know what i missed or messed up... thanks !! 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Installed my Hose, ended up getting a 36" piece of Dayton Wrapped Hose, looks great and is pliable. also got a New Elbow to be safe.
Cut it into lengths i measure out for each section.

Installed Some hose clamps that I got from TFS. looks like the old ones are different from the new ones i just received.

  Upper Hose Installed

  Lower Hoses & New Elbow Installed
Clamps are NOT tightened yet

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When installing my Hose and Clamps i noticed that the NEW ones I got from TFS are thinner than the older set i got.

  Hose Clamps Side by Side
Also noticed that they have totally different hardware. The NEW set on the left. Phillips drive hex head screws on left, round head slotted drive on right.Both are 10-24

The set on the left is approx .022" Thick and very flimsy where as when i tighten them up on the hose they distort badly, not even wrenching them down, can easily flex and bend with my fingers. the set on the right is approx .040" thick and a lot more sturdy, i can wrench these down and they do not distort. also the set on left is more of a zinc plated material, whereas the one on the right is a galvanized looking material.

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Figured I would work on getting the exhaust system cleaned up and ready to go in the car, since i am at that point.  looks like the PO had a new exhaust system made / bought to replicate the original style.

I took some time to sand and clean up the surface rust and such. Then I put on a few coats of High Temp Primer Followed by a Few Coats of High Temp Exhaust Black Paint. looks a lot better than it did when it came off.

  Exhaust Manifold to Muffler Primed
  Exhaust Tailpipe Section Primed

  Exhaust Manifold to Muffler Painted
  Exhaust Tailpipe Painted 

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looking to see what actually holds on the 2 Chrome Strips on the Front Radiator Splash Apron. I have the Apron, need to massage and work it to fit properly on the front clip, it is a little mangled. Need to know how the 2 Chrome Strips are secured/ fastened to the Apron ?!? Looks like there should be some sort of Clip ?

I also procured a   New Tunnel & Crank Hole Cover from TFS, so will test fit that on as well. once it is all straight and in order, will tear it down, have the strips replated, then strip, prime and paint the apron and tunnel. 

Then Can put it all together and put it on the car.

I will post some pictures later to make sure I have all the correct parts for the Radiator Splash Apron for my 1929. 

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OK took some pictures of what I have on hand:

Radiator Splash Apron 01
...Straight on shot from front

Radiator Splash Apron 02 
...Close up of Tunnel

Radiator Splash Apron 03
...Right Side Seam Close up, what goes in the Holes along seam they do not look inline with Rivets ??

Radiator Splash Apron 04
...Left Side Seam Close up, what goes in the Holes along seam they do not look inline with Rivets ??

Radiator Splash Apron 05
...Underside View

Radiator Splash Apron 06
...Left UnderSide Close Up, can see the Holes and looks liek Square Nuts were in those palces based on recesses

Radiator Splash Apron 07
...Right UnderSide Close Up, can see the Holes and looks liek Square Nuts were in those palces based on recesses

Radiator Splash Apron 08
...Left UnderSide Outter Close Up, Do these washers belong on the mounting holes ??

Radiator Splash Apron 09
...Right UnderSide Outter Close Up, Do these washers belong on the mounting holes ??

Radiator Splash Apron 10
...Right front CLose Up, can see one of hte Questioned HOles Close Up.

Radiator Splash Apron 11
...Left front CLose Up, can see one of hte Questioned HOles Close Up.

Radiator Splash Apron 12
...Straight on shot upside Down

Please take a look and confirm this is correct for my 1929 Chevrolet International 4 Door Sedan

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ok, so looks like the strips are in excellent condition, i straightened them up and cleaned them up a little bit. they fit nicely on the Radiator Splash Apron. 

 

I was thinking of a way to make me some clips/ hardware for mounting. 

 

This is what I came up with... Let me know what you think

 

Started off with a Standard #10 Washer, it actually fits really nice in the spaces where the t-bolts slid in. and you can slide them around freely in the track. my concern was not really enough surface area to HOLD them down when tightened. so i ordered a bag of #10 Fender Washers.

#10 Fender Washer 3/4" OD

 

Measured the width of the Track.Took my File and Flattened two sides of the Washer. Tweaked it to fit freely with some play for chrome plating thickness.
  #10 Fender Washer Flat Edges

 

Took My Countersink and drilled the washer to fit a #10 Slotted Flat Head Screw Flush with the top surface.
  #10 FEnder w/ Flat Sides
  #10-32 Slotted Flat Head Screw
  #10 Flat Head Screw in Countersunk Washer
Yeah it does NOT look like it sits flat due to the angle, but it does :)

 

These fit really Nice in the Track and I can slip them in the groove, and slide them into place. made a few to test and they work Great. Had a issue with the screw spinning freely when trying to tighten them up, so think i will have my friend tack the flat head screw to the washer. Then i can grind it down so it fits.

 

Think this will work fine for my application and hold the strips tightly in place.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Was off on Tuesday so picked up my hardware i ordered to install the Exhaust system on my 1929.

Started installation of the hangers & Brackets hoping to make it easier to install and secure.

  Tail Pipe bracket & Support Installed
  Another Head on Shot
  Muffler Support
shadows make it look like there is a red tint, most likely from the flash...

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Those are Harbor Freight Furniture Dollys got em on sale, 8 of em actually. 4 hang on the wall in the back if i need them for anything else.

then i cut plywood to fit in one way then another piece across the top. all screwed together nicely, any screws that went thru were cut off and ground below surface. then bought Harbor Freight Jack Stands again on sale and 4 of em. centered them up on the dollys, then marked and drilled for u bolts to hold em down and in place. they work great, really cheap, and the car does NOT just roll around, it takes some force to move it. figure around 2500-3000 pounds on them. distributed evenly.  but gives me just enough ground clearance i can roll under do some work and have no issues. I originally used industrial zip ties to hold them in place.  

 

yes i can roll it sideways and spin it if i wanted. takes effort and muscle, not a really easy task. my floor is NOT smooth it is rough concrete. takes a bit of effort to redirect the wheels ;)

 

Pictures from the Original Build

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Trying to stay active on my 1929, looking to see what is the correct make and Model of Vacuum wiper for my 1929 4 door Sedan.

Then what is the best way to test/ verity that it works properly. Not sure if the PO rebuilt it or if it was thrown in a box, bough off ebay, etc...

Figured I would cross this bridge now so that if need be I can have it ready when I get there.

Will see if I can get some pictures and post it when I get home today. Assuming it is in the box of parts ?!?!?

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Well spent the weekend tearing down and rebuilding the wiper motor.  I Took my time, broke it down and laid out all the parts as i took them apart, took pictures of most every step along the way. followed the instructions that came with my rebuild kit, even ordered an extra gasket just in case i destroyed the one in the kit !!

1929 Wiper Motor Original 01
1929 Wiper Motor Original 02
1929 Wiper Motor Original 03
1929 Wiper Motor Original 04
1929 Wiper Motor Original 05

 

Basic Tear Down of the MAIN components
Main Parts Spread

Original Gasket on Wiper Body Cover

Original Wiper Paddle

 

Tore Down the Original Wiper Paddle
Wiper Paddle Parts

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after tearing everything down time to clean each part up, remove the old grease and grime.

 

I took my time doing this as NOT to damage any surfaces or break anything.

 

also the copper parts of the paddle are very thin !! and their are NO replacements.

 

Here is a shot of the rebuild kit
Trico Rebuild Kit

 

Side by side of OLD vs NEW Paddle Seal
Paddle Seals

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Then time to rebuild the paddle and then the Vacuum Assembly.

 

I read instructions a few times, dry fir the builds, then assembled and secured. 

Vacuum Body Greased Up
Paddle Greased Up
Vacuum Body Cover Greased Up
Gasket Installed

 

Then Assemblies the parts, installed the mechanisms that make it work.
Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 01
Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 02
Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 03
Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 04
Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 05

 

I ONLY had to trim one small section of the gasket, easily done with a razor blade. and realized on my model I did NOT really need the ROUND stop Sealer, but oh well.

 

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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once it was built, time to test it out...  figured the best way to test a vacuum motor is with a vacuum !! but how to adapt it to the motor ??
I took my small house cordless vacuum, and then taped my plastic dollar tree turkey baster on to the end of the hose using vinyl tape (electrical tape). wanted to avoid any vacuum leaks. then the turkey baster end was a little to big for the vacuum connection, so wrapped a few turns of vinyl tape around the fitting and got a NICE SNUG fit. fired up the vacuum and NOTHING happened. short panic set in and thought the wiper was trash :/

 

then i thought how much vacuum is this vacuum actually pulling, so hooked it up to the Vacuum gauge, and it barely pulled 1 inch of Hg. so swapped out the cordless for the 5 gal shop vac. it pulls about 4 in of Hg. so connected it to the vacuum wiper motor. and away the wiper went. i was happy. let it run for a minute to make sure everything works correctly.

 

just for you guys, I shot a short video, make sure you turn down the SOUND, the Vacuum is LOUD !!
Vacuum Motor Mechanisms at Work
Vacuum Wiper Swinging Wiper Arm
videos are a little large, so may take a few minutes to initialize and run but they are cool, especially the one with the mechanisms

 

Link to ALL 1929 Vacuum Wiper Motor Pictures

Now it needs to be cleaned up/ remove extra grease, and then painted BLACK and installed.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Checking to see what is Correct/ Original for a 1929 4 Door, this is the Main Ground from the Battery to the Frame Rail (passenger Side)

 

I checked the MPL and it list Cable, Ground

 

Wondering if it was a Web Style Grounding Strap or just a plain ole Grounding Cable (Rubber/ Plastic Coated) ?? What Gauge is Recommended by the Pros here for best performance ?? Stock Length ??

 

This is what I have now from PO 1929 Ground Cable

 

I plan to clean it all up, get a proper ground metal to metal, touch up paint, etc.

 

This is what TFS has in their Catalog Ground Strap
9.5" , 12", or 14" long

 

Also reading on here, there was talk about Grounding to the Drivetrain ?? is this required/ recommended on the 1929 ??

 

If so from where to where, and then same as above ?? strap or cable ?!

 

Were the Battery Connectors for battery were the simple straight style:or something else ??
CblendFlat.JPG

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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done a ton of searching and looking at the aluminized coating route, calling today to get pricing and such from Uvira, Inc. also a place that is in Ohio or kentucky does it as well. will provide details once i get em !!

did not see anything on material, looks like mine are painted or coated black on one side and then silvered on the other 

also one seems to have a ding that makes a slight crease in the reflector, can that be fixed or not ??? I can live with it if not, will not be truly visible unless you take it apart and look closely at in.

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talked to Bill today out at Uvira, they are still in business and doing the reflectors. cost is $75 a pair and includes return shipping IF you include the check in the box on its way out. turn around it 2-3 days. they have a New shipping address, vs the one listed. and if you send via USPS they have a Post Office Box they check daily, other shipments go to a physical address they check routinely. so USPS is fastest way to get them something !!

Actually had a really good conversation with him when he called me back. He told me he had a stroke recently, so he is a little slower but still kicking and working hard.seems to really enjoy what he does especially for old cars. He is a true fan old cars, and says he gets pictures from his clients and post them all over his wall. He is particularly a fan of Chevrolet, the 1929 in particular says it is a good looking car, says it is a far better car than the F**d. Told me story of friend who owned one as a kid, then sol when he got older, then turned around and realized he missed his car, and went and bought it back, and still owns it to this day.

Will be sending mine his way soon, once they get straightened and nickeled. They do require that the reflectors be cleaned up, and nickel plated then polished before they get them. as all they do is aluminize them. said they used to do the entire process but is tedious and requires way more time, man power, and equipment.doing the aluminum coating is the easy part :)

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