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1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, Working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action] I am verifying the Dipper Depth into the Trough. From doing my homework, Reading the Forums & Owners Manuals, etc... It seems that the recommended depth for the Dipper to dip into the trough is roughly 15/64" or .234".

I did simple measuring, using straight edges, calipers, etc... and then confirmed/ verified my numbers by using the grease method :) Which was fun !!

Oil Pan Troughs Loaded up w/Grease

Oil Troughs after a Few Spins

Would like to know what the proper depth should be for the rod dippers into the oil troughs to ensure proper oiling of the rods...

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  • 2 weeks later...

Had some time Sunday Night to install the Oil Pan Gasket !!

Did a test fit, made sure the Gasket Fit and laid propery against each other, and no interferences. Installed the Oil Pump Spring and Screen on Oil Pump 1929 Oil Pump (Identification & Replacement) I Read and then ReRead all the recommendations posted above about installing the gasket, and proceded as follows:

1-Cleaned Gasket Mating Surfaces on Oil Pan and on Engine Block, Made sure no debri, film, oil, etc...

2-Applied a thin coat of Grease to the Engine block to assist in holding the Oil Pan Gasket in Place

3-Screwed in my homemade Alignment/ Guide Pins Alignment/ Guide Pins

4-Installed and seated the Side Oil Pan Gaskets, made sure they seated properly against the Bearing Caps wear the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat against them

5-Applied a Small Dab of Permatex 2 in the Corners where the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets will seat

6-Installed the End Cork Oil Pan Gaskets in the bearing Caps, made sure htey were seated and aligned correctly Gaskets Installed Rear, Gaskets Installed Front

7-double checked all Oil Pan Gaskets to ensure holes are lined up, seated properly

8-Slowly & carefully installed the oil pan using the guide pins...

Man they work great to keep the pan straight and in line, 1.00" is optimal length when installing Oil Pan while Engine is in Car

9-Inserted 2 screws to hold and position oil pan in place.

10-Installed Slotted Round head Machine Screws .625" long, with a Flat Washer against Oil Pan, then a Split Lock Washer, gently hand tight to hold pan in place. Screwed in Place 1, Screwed in Place 2, Front bearing End Oil Pan,

11-assured everythign was lined up and in their proper location

12-Tightend up all screws

13-Doubled checked and cleaned up !! Oil Pan Installed

Looks Great !! So Happy this is done, puts me close to test firing the Engine and moving forward with my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Another Check on the List of Completed !!

Need to move on the the next step...

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Still working on my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action]. Waiting on my Spark Plug Thread Chasing Tool to clean up the threads so I can TEst Fire and FInish the TUne-Up, so I decided to Install the Fuel Filter, Screen, & Gasket I got from The Filling Station A Few weeks back.

Some Pictures of the Process:

Clean & Prepped Fule Pump

Screen & Gasket

Paper Fuel Filter

Glass Bowl

Close Up of Lip/ Recess for Paper Filter in Glass Bowl

Paper Filter in Glass Bowl

Close Up of paper Filter Sitting in Glass Bowl Lip/Recess

Glass Bowl w/ Paper Filter & Gasket Ready for Install

Screen Installed in Fuel Pump

Gasket Installed In Fuel Pump

Complete Assembly Installed & Ready

This was a pretty Quick & Easy job overall...

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Took some time to look at the wiring on the 1929, I am trying to figure out HOW the wiring is supposed to be done for the headlights/ lamps on my 1929. I have the Armor Coated Wire from the NEW WIring harness routed to the front and in the wiring hold downs. I know that there is a Grommet that goes into the holes that are in the Radiator shell. These holes measure approx .781" Diameter. Here is a picture of the Wire from the Harness: Wiring for Driver's Side Headlight/ Lamp, it is three wires, with cloth insulation, as well as a metal wrap over the length. As for the Connectors, this is what I have: 3-Wire Housing Solder/ Button End, 3-Wire Housing Wire End I know the wires go thru, get soldered, like button ends for electrical connection, that is no problem. This is the Bayonet Connector Shell Shell/ Housing. I KNOw that slides on the Wire, and then slips over the 3-Wire Housing. Now I also have this piece, one end has a larger opening, and tapers to a smaller opening, we shall call this the Taper Adapter, Taper Adapter - Taper End (Large Opening) & Taper Adapter - Small Opening. Now I also was giving these, Metal Wire Looms/ Guards and told they gover over the wires to the COnnector End, basically run through the hole in the radiator shell w/ grommet, to back of headlight/ lamp. Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, They have a end cap on each end like this End Caps.

I am trying to FIGURE OUT HOW this is supposed to all go together. I have seen some with just the wire going through the Radiator Shell with the ARmour Guard, NO Metal Wire Looms/ Guards, then I have seen some with the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards installed. Also which way and how does the Taper Adapter MOunt, I know it goes on before the Boyenet COnnector, taper end towards bayonet connector or towards the wire ?? If I need the Metal Wire Looms/ Guards how are tehy secured/ mounted to the Connector End of the wire to secure them ?? and do they just run into through the grommet with extra length inside the shell for movement, or are they cut to length and stop at the grommet ??

Any Pictures of how this is SUPPOSED to go together would be greatly appreciated.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my Push Rod Cover installed and sealed, letting it sit overnight and set up/ cure. Will take some pictures and post them later.

Spacer seemed to work fine, all new hardware installed as well. Looks good, should be ready to fire up this weekend !!

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Well needless to say I am estactic at this point. Finished up the initial phase of my 1929 Engine Timing/ Tune-Up [Plan of Action], all the way to the Test Fire Engine/ Warm-Up Phase ;)

Friday Night, Installed the Push Rod Cover, got it all done, let it set up and seal overnight. Saturday Morning went out and double checked all my settings and ensured I had everything ready to go. Since I replaced the Fuel Pump Galss Bowl Screen, Gasket, and installed the paper fuel filter, i needed to make sure that fuel was flowing, as the bowl was empty. I turned over the engine a few times and watched for fuel to the bowl. Nothing... tried a few more times, nothing... scratched my head, and before tearing anythig a part, decided to pull off the glass bowl, double check everything, reseat the gasket, and bowl and tighten it back up. Turned over the engine and fuel was flowing, bowled filled up. One more check around the engine and I turned the key. After a little negotiated the gas, choke, and such the engine sputtered and came to life.

Youtube Video:

Now need to warm it up to operating temp, and then Hot Set the Valves & set the timing...

It did throw out some smoke and such, but after a few minutes, setteld down and mellowed out. Also need to adjust throttle & idle on the Carb.

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Spent a little time out in the garage last night fooling with the timing & timing light. Trying to figure out to get my timing light 3555 INNOVA® Advance Timing Light to work with my antique Chevrolet, seems to keep picking up interference from Plug no 2.

I managed to get it to work for the most part. Anyone know of any TRICKS or TIPS how to SHIELD the pick up from interference ?? On my first attempt I did not see any marking in the timing window :/ so I rotated the distributer one way and the engine began to choke and try to shut off, so I spun it the other way, and it sped up, i went around adjusted teh carb to settle it down, shined the light in the window, and I saw the UC mark just starting to appear in the bottom of the window. took a minute to look over what i had and realized that i could not spin the distributer any more in that direction and still had a ways to go to get the timing in range. I shut her down, and pulled the distributer, spun it one tooth, aligned the oil pump back up, and dropped her back in. doubled checked it over, fired it back up, adjusted idle, and lit up the light and were right about 0 deg timing, UC was right on the point. Made a few adjustments and got the timing to 12 deg and settle the engine down. sounded nice.

Next I got the timing all set to 18 deg and settled the idle down and adjusted the carb. at this point the engine seems to jsut tap along, making soft music :) seems I have the plug gap, point gap, timing all set per recommendations, and it seems to run and settle in just fine. WIll let it ride for now, and will go back and double check the valves soon and make any adjustments that are needed.

So glad that it is running and sounding SO much better then it was before. I will shoot another video and post here soon, and you can do a before and after soundcheck.

Now to close it up, and move on to the Brakes !!

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  • 4 weeks later...

as you know I have the 1929 assembled and running, however I have noticed that in my drip pan i have oil... doing a little searching and tracing the oil is dripping out of the bottom of the flywheel cover. Some oil is also running from that rear engine area down the oil pan to the low point and dripping into the pan.

Only leaks/ weeps when running, not a steady drip/ run but after running for about 5 minutes i have a good size oil spot in the pan, say 4-6 inches in diameter...

So where is the Oil LEAKING ?? or Weeping ?? could it be from the Rear Main Bearing ?? is there a seal per say to prevent leaking or am i missing something. Could the bearing just not be tight enough ?? meaning taking it apart and verify the clearance in the bearing ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Well removed teh rear main bearing, the clearance is correct at about .0015" to .002".

Here are some shots of the Bearing Cap. The ball is free and moves freesly when i tilt the cap. Looking at the bearing surface is this a plug or what is this. also what is the fuzz that is in the Rear portion of hte bearing carrier and engine part. Looks like some sort of seal / barrier material ??

Rear Bearing Cap 1

Rear Bearing Cap 2

Rear Bearing Cap 3

Plug in Bearing ??

Ball Moves Freely

Fuzz 1

Fuzz 2

Fuzz 3

Trying to figure out how the oil from the trough above the bearing, feeds into the bearing, where does it go ?? If the plug is there it has to go either out the back or front of the bearing ?!?

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Doing a little more Investigation and work, The FUZZ is a Rope Like Gasket to help control the flow of oil from going erratic and out the back. I gently removed the FUZZ to check the drain hole. Boy was it Clogged !! So spent some time with a Can of Brake Clean, Pipe Cleaners, and Compressed Air (Air Compressor). The Drain and reservoir area in the bearing were CLOGGED with grit, grime, sludge... Now it is completely clean. Ran a tes and oi lwill flow freely from the back to teh front, past the ball. Ball was free all along, just did not KNOW that the back half was CLOGGED.

Cleaned it up, shimmed and checked my cleanrances, right about .0015" - .002" with the Plastigage & Torqued down.

Pulled the from and it looks good, cleaned it up clearanced it and put it back in, now to do the center bearing, little more work here since I have to remove the oil pump line...

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I starting this weekend working on setting up the brakes on my 1929. Was told that the 1929 had all news shoes on all four corners. So this weekend I removed all four tires, looked over the rods,clevis, pins, etc... New shoes all the way around.

I began by reading and doing my homework... Read the Owners Manual, Service Manual, also 1929 Service News ( It has step by step Adjustment Procedure ), and then scanning thorugh post on here. Now armed and dangerous, I ventured out and began going through the steps. Had a little fun trying to get the Brake tool to line up with the Poportioner on the cross shafts. Cross Shaft & Proportioner Had to work the Cross shafts as they were nice and tigh, been sitting awhile. I know that using the tool should set everything to a neutral position to do the rods. Wondering how the cross shafts should be sitting, when set here, this is what I have Cross Shaft End Location, this is looking towards the rear of the 1929, front to the right. Front Linkage Front Linkage Pict. this look right or off some ??

Once I got it lined up i set the front, was pretty easy. So i Went to the back, when I got to the back something caught my attention, looks like the pads are not square on the drums.Rear Brake - Top Down As you can see one side the rear is in line but the front it offset to the inside. Is it supposed to be like this, thought they should be square and inline ?? If they are supposed to be square, how can i get them there, looking in the Master Parts List there is not left / Right specific shoes, only top and bottom. I removed them and tried various setups to get them to line up but no avail ?!

Here are some pictures of what I had to start with:

Rear Brake - Passenger

Rear Brake - Rear Shot of Adjusting Eyes for Rear Adjustment

Rear Brake - Front Shot of Connecting Band

Looking for ideas on what to do and should they be square on the drums, and if so how to get them there. What am I missing/ Overlooking.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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  • 4 months later...

Great work on the car----and the thread!

Extremely informative for us people that are new to the old chevys.

My rear main shows the same symptoms.

How is the leak at the rear main now?

Did you re-install a rope packing seal, or leave it out as designed?

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Ok, so I should remove the rope seal from the block & bearing cap. May be the reason WHY the oil is running out the back. Oil can not drain fast enough so it is seeping and over flowing out the back of the bearing into the flywheel cover.

This would be the Flange/ Slinger ??

Flange/ Slinger

Block Half

Assume whomever redid the engine did what they thought was correct, not period correct...

From my reading looks like there was NO Seal on the rear till about 1940 or so. Basically oil is flung around the flinger in the groove, and then runs to the bottom of the groove, and drains down the hole and out the front past the ball. That is unless the ball is stuck or is blocking the path when on incline.

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Been working with a few guys from the VCCA (Thanks NC Chip & Andys29) on my brake issue, one issue that NC Chip has pointed out was that the rear Bracket that mounts (riveted) to the Flange seems to be out of place.

Bracket in Question

Bracket Close-Up

Bracket Top Down Assembled

Bracket Top Down

Bracket from the Inside

Bracket from Rear

This varies from his that seems to be pretty Flat against the flange ?!?

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Now Looking at the location of the Proportioner as well and the End Linkages of the Cross shafts and front / rear linkages. Here is a picture of the Proportioner in position using the Brake Gauge/ Tool to set the pin hole at approximately 35 deg.

Proportioner Set-up, now with this setup here is what the crossshaft linkages look like Cross shaft end linkages The front is to the left, and linkageis slightly angled to hte front, where the rear is more angled to the rear at a steeper angle. Here is a shot of the front linkage Front Linkage it is almost straight up and down, slight angle towards the front. Then here is the rear linkage Rear Linkage Rear of 1929 is to the left, Linkage is slightly angled towards the rear. hard to get a side shot of this one since it is in a tight spot behind running board.

Trying to figure out if this is correct or even in the ball park. Seems with this setup I can connect all the linkages back up after the brakes are set and the stops and adjustments are made.

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Looking at my Rear Brakes, was trying to figure out how to get teh drum off. I have removed the cotter pin & Castle Nut off the shaft. Thought that the Drum would just slide off, but was wrong.

Did Some homework and it seems that the proper way to remove the rear drum is by using a Really Big & Heavy Duty Gear/ Pulley Puller ??

How have you guys done it, and what is the Best/ Safest way to do this, with OUT damaging the drum or anything on the Rear Axle ??

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Looks like everyone has their way, seems most use a large hub puller or crum puller. I am going to see if I can rent one from the local parts store before I buy one to make sure i buy what i truly need.

How do you reinstall the brake drum and make sure it is secure and on all the way ?? Does it have to be pressed on or jsut slid on then tighted up and pinned ??

Answer: Replacing the drum is easy. Push it on with the brakes loose and tighten the castle nut and replace the cotter pin. I would look into the torques specs before I tightened it.

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Well got my Hub Puller in last night !!

Will post up some picts of what I got. It is stamped as a Hunt brand, anyone ever heard of them. This thing came in an old metal case, weighs a ton. In excellent condition and will long outlast me and the next 12 owners :)

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  • 3 months later...

OK, I am working on getting back to the brakes, mainly the rear.

The front Brakes have been checked, cleaned, etc... Hoping they are done & ready to go.

As for the Rear, From our discussions and looking at the pictures of my rear brake Bracket [External Brake Connecting Rod Support] (As discussed and shown in photos above) and comparing it to the pictures from Andys29 & Chip (in NC) It looks like I need to adjust this bracket to move the brakes shoes towards the outside of the vehicle so as to get them to seat square on the drums.


Bracket: Front View

Bracket: Top Down

Bracket: View from Inside

Question: What is the best way to adjust this bracket with out doing ay damage to it or surrounding parts, like the Drum ?? I need the drum to help know where the bracket needs to go (Alignment). I can talk to it with a BFH and see how that works, or try some sort of clamp/ vise ??

I have to do this to both sides on the Rear...

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Well finally got back out to work on my 1929 Brakes, been a While (actually since October).

looking & reading over my previous posts on this subject, I finished removeing all the drivers side rear brake hardware, springs. I adjusted the bracket in question to center it up on the drum, and check alignment. Once i was happy with the alignment i used my hub puller and removed the brake drum. I am only removing one side at at time so that i can use the other side as reference. Granted I am taking TONS of picts, always nice to have a reference :)

Old Brake Springs/ Hardware 01

Old Brake Springs/ Hardware 02

Looks pretty worn and tired after all those years

New Springs Readyo to take over Brake Duty

YES These are C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Brake Springs !!

First step is to removed paint from all the critical surfaces. Starting with the drum surfaces that the shoes ride on, both inside and out.

BEFORE: Outside of Drum

BEFORE: Inside of Drum

as you can see they painted the entire drum, including the threads on the studs !! let the fun begin !!

AFTER: Outside of Drum

AFTER: Inside of Drum

All Cleaned up and ready to go back to work...

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Next I stripped down the hardware, YES the threads both internal and external were painted !! WHAT a PAIN Too remove !! Once stripped down i applied some primer and then a few coats of black. YES I protected the internal and external threads so as NOT to paint them !!

Hardware All Painted up... Ready to Go

also all New Clevis Pins and Cotter Pins

Then I began to reassemble the components...

One Side Complete Ready to go

Looking Good

I got all the Assemblies together and ready to install...

tomorrow I begin PUtting them back on the 1929 !!

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Okay, so today I began putting all the Assemblies back on the 1929 to build a complete working brake assembly !!

I put on the new hardware, new component assemblies. I also greased up moveing/ sliding components to ensure they move freely and easily and also to hopefully prevent corrosion. or at least slow it down some :)

Driver's Side Rear all Together

Looks Great, Made me feel good to see it all come back together !!

I then followed the Repair Manual & G&D Instructions for setting the clearances on the Rear Brakes...

Question: i do NOT have the same distance/ gap all the way around the shoe ?? is this correct, will the shoes change/ take shape after a few miles of use ?? I know the Shoes are pretty flexible...

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Once I had everything set I did a few pull checks to see if they engage and seat properly and they grab HARD, stop the axle !! this was all done by hand, none of the linkages are connected yet. Spun axle by hand, pulled level by hand so...

I then checked alignment, as you seen in previous post the shoes were crossed/ crooked on the drums. Not anymore !!

Top Down View

Front View Looking back

Rear looking Forward

as you can see the shoes look great and are stright with the drums, YES !!

Few Shots of the Hardware Up Close:

Rear Hardware

Front Hardware

Axle Nut & Cotter Pin

Now on the the Passenger Side Rear !!

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Ok, well took apart the passenger rear, stripped down the parts, then primed and painted. pretty much same as the drivers side routine.

Adjusted Bracket to proper position

Reassembled and set parts. installed components and then adjusted passenger brakes accordingly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well ventured out to replace my trunnions...

was not as bad as I thought it would be but also not as easy as I hoped.

Worked on the Drivers side first. Removed the Hex Cap Screw that holds to the outter side support on. As JYDog described had to pry this off. Had to fight with the old Pot Metal Trunnions, yeah they broke and crumbled, but the round portion that went thru the hole in the supports was stuck...

Basically ended up removing the small brake assembly in order to drill out and clean out the rest of the trunnion stuck in the supports. In order to remove this assembly had to remove the castle nut and the front drum. Small Brake Assembly Removed & Cleaned

then I cleaned the threads on the bolt for the brass nut, as well and cleaned & greased the moving components and related parts. Test Fit on Brass Nut I did a test fit of the New T6 Trunnions and found out that there was some interference with the brake part Trunnion Interference this Interference prevented the trunnion from being able to rotate, which is essential in adjusting the brakes, ince this is a pivot point. so to solve this I filed down the corners a bit and success. Trunnion Filed Corners once this was complete I assembled the parts back together Assembly w/o New Clevis Pin & Cotter Pin

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I then reinstalled the assembly to the car. was tricky to get the assembly back in since had to find a way to keep the shoes spaced out so that the cam could go between them and still align with the two cap screws that held the assembly in. Found a Hex Coupling Nut of perfect size that solved this issue. Basically spread the shoes apart slid in the coupling nut then slid in the assembly from the back side and pushed out the coupling nut.

Completed Assembly w/ New Trunnions

Assembly Installed

once completed, I readjusted and set the brakes.

Then moved on to the Passenger Side, which took half the time, now that I knew what I was doing & how to do it. Installed and reset the brakes on this side.

SO Now have all NEW trunnions installed... now need to move on to finishing the brakes up.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well spent some time adjusting brakes per the instructions in the Owners manual/ Repair Manual as well as Service News from 1929 :-) think I have everything set and seems to function properly.

TRULY want to make sure they WORK PROPERLY BEFORE I do a test drive and can NOT Stop !! that would be scary !!

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Since brakes are to a complete point, still need to do a test and then install all the cotter pins in the linkages and clevis. that is ALWAYS FUN !!

I decided to tear down the bottom of the engine, remove oil pan and clean it out one more time. there was a little sludge, but I can live with that compared to what I started with !!

Also checked the oil pump and innards while I was there. also removed the FUZZ/ Rope Seal on the rear Bearing. Hoping this eliminates or at least REDUCES the oil leak I have. put it all back together, cleaned up the area and then filled it back up with oil...

did a test fire and let it run for a few to get warmed up and circulating.

figured I would do a FINE TUNE on the 1929

so changed out to the NEW wire set I got from Marx Parts, VERY NICE SET, put in the NEW AC Delco C87 gapped at .40, per VCCA Recommendation, changed to my new coil. and fired right up. broke out the timing light and messed with the timing to get it to the recommended 18 degrees. did not sound too happy so dropped it back till it smoothed out, at about 12 degrees or so.

decided to call it a night, and will tinker with the plug gap and timing till it purrs and runs smooth...

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spent some more time messing with the Tune Up, trying to figure out WHY it would not idle or run smooth. Talking with my friends on the VCCA decided to look for vacuum leaks. Using an old timer trick broke out a can of carb cleaner and spray small burst around intake manifold, nothing. That is a sign of relief, then did a few small burst around the carb gasket, and there it was. has a leak all around the gasket. so now need to remove the carb and replace the gasket...

All for another night

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Decided to pull the Carb to check the Accelerator Pump since I have to replace the gasket. Looked inside the throat and it was black !! coated !! did a little checking and pulled the bowl, full of fuel, float was at about 3/4" as Spec'd. Tinkered with the Acc pump, it was REALLY LOSE to the point that when I removed the Nut & Washer off the bolt and removed it, the Level for the Acc Pump DROPPED to the bottom. In fact with NO effort I was able to remove Acc Pump Level from the pump. It was BONE Dry !! the Acc Pump looks like it has NOT seen Fuel in YEARS !! I removed the bottom screw from the Acc pump and dry as can be.

Pump Lever 1

Pump Lever 2

Pump Lever 3

Sprayed some Carb Cleaner up in the Tube and it went right back out at me. So there is a Clog in there somewhere. Checked out the other jets & ports, they look good. After a few minutes of the cleaner, I sprayed another burst in the acc pump port and out it came thru the jet in the throat.

So looks like it really need a GOOD CLEANING maybe a Rebuild w/ new gaskets and such.

Decided to clean it up best I could and call it a night

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Ok, today after cleaning the carb, I put it back together and hooked the Vacuum Gauge to the Manifold where the Wiper Vacuum Connects.

In doing so I got right about 19-20 Hg on the Gauge :)

...it seemed to stay steady there

If I rev up the engine should the reading drop, climb or just stay steady ?? This is during Engine Rev, figure it should even back out once at a Steady RPM.

Did a compression check as well to be on the safe side.

I am getting approx. 75 PSI on all 6 cylinders !! so that makes me feel a little better.

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Going through my stuff I have for my 1929, I have a spare Carter RJH-08 150S, currently have the Carter RJH-08 136S on the car.

From my understanding this may be an NOS Carb ??

Looking it over there are NO marks from it ever being mounted, Mounting Flange is Clean & can still see machine marks in it. On the back side of the Flange you can NOT see any scratches or surface wear from a bolt or nut or a washer being against it. All the Springs look Pretty Original as well as the Screws, Thread are perfect and no signs of wear. All the tabs and Brackets are still in shape and show no distortion. The Brass bowl looks GREAT, other then tarnish/ coloration from age, shows NO marks from wrenching, banging or anything. Nut looks NEW. Also still ahs the little ? Copper/ Brass ? tag in tack, stamped with 2 shapes/ holes and marked with a J 8 and then a small 8, anyone know what these means ?? Also looks like a Lightly stamped "1" then a BOLD Stamped "50" lightly stamped "S"

Looking in the intake/ Throat it looks clean, can still see the cast surface finish, as well as the acc jet in the back. this thing shows NO sign of wear... did they test these things at the factory before installation/ shipping or just build and ship and let the guys in the field/ factory install and adjust/ test/ tune.

Shot some pictures up and thought I would share and get feedback from those that my have some input or thoughts.

Carter RJH-08 150S

If it is possible I may put the 150S on the car and have the 136S rebuilt and store for a spare, or just sell it to a new home. If not possible I will rebuild the 136s and put it back on the car and sell off this 150S.

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