BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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When i took apart my 1929 Transmission, the   Bottom Flywheel Cover, has a drain hole, an in that drain hole was a Cotter pin. not sure if the pin was to help get the oil out and away from the pan when it drips vs run down the side and hanging on.

Is this factory or something the PO did ?!

Should i Put a new Cotter Pin in or ??

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Here is a sketch i did up off how the cover fits and the spacing i have 

1929 Push Rod Cover DIMS

Red Dims are overall length of Studs
Green Dim is Spacer Length
White is the Space / Gap
Left Dim is Offset of Cover
Right Dim is Est Gasket Thickness

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I am wondering what it takes to remove the fuel tank from my 1929. Since i am cleaning and checking everything as i go, figured i mine as well drain it flush it and clean it out. 

Looking at the tank, looks like there are ONLY 2 straps holding the tank in place. Is this all that holds the tank to the frame ?? and to remove those 2 straps looks like there are two bolts/ nuts on the front side that hold the straps to the frame. 

so if i support the tank, remove the fuel line from the tank, i then can remove the hardware, loosen the straps, and then slowly lower the gas tank down ??  then installation is the reverse ??

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how can i check the fuel sending unit, and what does it look like ??

1-seems there is a plug of sorts on the bottom of the tank, i assume to drain the tank if needed ??

2-looks like the gas gauge is all one piece internal to the tank, and looks like i should be able to slowly thread it off and gently pull it out of the tank ?? any tricks/ tips or anything that i should be weary of when pulling it out to validate & inspect it ??

3-assume there are gaskets to seal the unit to the tank to prevent leaks, or just threaded on and that is all ?? 

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Ordering some hardware for my 1929 Running Board & Apron. Looking at the MPL it list 1/4-20 @ 3/4 & 1 long then 5/16-18 3/4, 1, and 1-1/4 long which one are used to:

1-Apron to Running Board Sides
2-Apron to Running Board Ends of Running Boards

Looking at what I have on mine now is NO help, PO used whatever he had laying around, it is a hodge podge of hardware, types, sizes, materials, etc...

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Wondering if there are any replacements for the Universal Joint Ball washers #348133 they are shown in red here:   Washers 348133 

seems i am missing one, and the other looks abused.

or can i make new ones, or is there a substitute for them ?? or do i need to find a WHOLE new Assembly (Mushroom) 

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looks like they tore one out and then tried to get the other one out, it is bent, warped, distorted, twisted, etc...

I was thinking to get a few cut out, with a slot so i could work it in like a spiral, and then put the o-ring in between. 

not sure what my other options are at this point.

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Thanks to Dave39MD !!  He had a NORS u-joint housing sitting around, that i was able to acquire for my rebuild and i was also able to successfully rebuild the original one

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I was able to source 2 Spiral washers to replace the lost & destroyed washers in my u-joint housing. I cleaned out the end, and deburred the housing where the washers & o-ring will go. this was to ensure the spiral washers sit properly and the o-ring would NOT get damaged.

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I opted for the 2 turn vs the 1 turn, since the 1 turn have a gap in them and figured this would cause issues with the o-ring, an edge to pinch on or a gap for the o-ring to try to escape.

really happy with the 2 turn easy to install and looks great. NO sharp edges and easy to remove. as you can see the custom lip they have for removal !!

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I contacted the Manufacturer directly, as we do tons of business with them for the company i work for. gave him some specs and he sent me some samples to try. a few 1 turn and a few 2 turn. 

If they work he says he can produce some for me in batches of 100 due to production run limits. so that would be 50 sets and would be pretty cheap, under $10 a set maybe even less !! 

I had them make them fit a little tight, so they do NOT slop around in the housing. should they be loose or snug ??

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Well last Monday i was home and was finally to the point of putting the engine & transmission back into my 1929. i double checked everything and then rolled the car back half way out the garage, then set up my engine hoist, and figured out a way to sling and hook it up to drop it back in.

 

I used my hand dandy moving blankets from Harbor Freight, they work great as fender protectors. Also Taped on some cardboard to back of engine to avoid scratching up the firewall and engine itself. I did bump a few things going back in, so had to do some touch up on pain, mainly the frame.

 

1929 Driveline Ready to go Back In
1929 Driveline Almost There
1929 Driveline Settled In
1929 Driveline All Ready  
 
Engine is in, now to drop in the pans and then start bolting on the accessories.

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)
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Working on putting Engine, Components, and Accessories back into the 1929 Bay. Wondering when is the best time to install the Splash/ Underpans ?? 

should they go in LAST after everything else engine, components, accessories ?

or should they on right after engine is installed BEFORE components and accessories are installed ??

Thanks in Advance !!

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While working on the car, i decided to remove the Hand Brake Handle & Assembly and Refinish it.

When removed from the car, hardware was corroded and the handle had seen better days.

1929 hnad Brake Lever Assembly

1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1a  
1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1b  

1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2a  
1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2b

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Took it all apart, Blasted it in my Little Bench Top Eastwood Blaster, using 50/50 mix of Glass & Alum Ox

  Brake Lever Assembly Blasted
there are some other parts in the mix as well, blasted everything while i had the machine set up !!

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Have to let paint cure, plus I had to order NEW hardware to put it all back together. so that should be here in a Few Days... I HOPE !!

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As most of you know i got my Engine and Transmission back in the 1929 Frame. now comes the fun part of installing all the accessories and parts that bolt on the engine.

All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Starter

Splash Pans were installed first, First up on the list was the starter:
  Engine Trans Housing Where Strater Mounts
  Starter Installed w/ Starter Pedal Assembly
Side View Of Starter & Redal Assembly

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Once the Starter was secured, Next up was the Generator & Adjustment Arm. The Belt was also installed to assist with installation and proper adjustment of the Generator.
All NEW Hardware was used to Install the Generator
Side View of Generator Installed
  Front View of Engine w/ Generator Installed

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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After the Generator was secured and Adjusted, I decided to install the NEW C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) Push Rods & Caps in prep for the rebuilt Rocker Arm Assembly to go in.
  C&P Automotive Push Rods & Caps  C&P Automotive Caps Up Close
They come sealed in an airtight back with a light coat of oil on them to keep them protected.
  Push Rods and Caps Installed
I also Installed NEW C&P Automotive Tappets, when i installed the Push Rod Cover.

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Once the Push Rods & Caps were installed next up was the Rocker Arm Assembly. I had the COMPLETE Rocker Arm Assembly rebuilt via   Rocker Arms Unlimited out in CA. These guys are very knowledgeable about the vintage Chevrolets. They have all the equipment and tools to do the job right, including creating the correct contour on the Rocker arm tips !! I worked w/ Gary out there, and he took care of me in every aspect. Read more and see Pictures of their work in previous Posts here.

Wicks Installed
  Wicks Installed Close Up
  Rocker Arms Installed w/ Rods & Wicks
  Wicks Instaleld w/ Caps Close Up

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After the Rocker Arms, I set the valves, this took some time, as i checked and double checked to make sure that they were set correctly with Piston 1 @ TDC.

Once that was done Next to go in was the Distributor:
  Distributor Installed
NEW Hardware was used here as well

I also took the time to set the points gap and then double check that while here as well. I am trying to get all the critical items COLD SET so that when i am ready i can try and fire the engine with little or NO issues... CROSSING MY FINGERS !!

Edited by BearsFan315 (see edit history)

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Do you need to check the valves when hot, later? I remember setting them on my '36, engine running. The hammered 0.006" feeler gauge still makes me smile when I see it.

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