BearsFan315

1929 Chevrolet International - 4 Door Sedan Project

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Yes, COLD set to get everything close so that you can hopefully get it started and running, then once up to Temp HOT set everything.

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i had to do the .060 shims under the posts because PO installed aftermarket, later year valves and they are taller than the stock, and they cut the push rods down to compensate.   1929 Head Check - Valves

so when i put int he rebuild arms, and then the NEW C&P Push Rods & Caps, when i tightened down the bolts to hold the arms in, it pressed open all the valves. even if i removed the adjusters from the arms. this was the only way i could get it to work. based on my math it worked out just fine. will see how it does once i get it running up and to temp and HOT Set the valves.

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i checked my belt and ordered a NOS Dayco #24380 17A0965 per an article on here about belts. It is NON Wrapped, NON cogged Belt Made in the USA.

It is shorter that the GATES that the PO had installed.
  Dayco 24380 in Wrap
  Dayco 24380 Close Up Side View
  Dayco 24380 Close up Stamp
  Dayco 24380 V Close Up

Installed the belt
  Engine Front View Dayco
notice the angle from before to now
  Engine Front View Gates

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Flushed out the tank

now need to decide to seal or not to seal

Going to replace the cork float with a new neoprene one i ordered
need to replace the gaskets around the gauge face, they are all falling apart.

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well used the KBS Clean and soaked the tank, did this until the flush water ran clear, which was only 1 trip. water came out a little rusty color, but not bad. 

now to clean up the Float, paint up the back, and then put it all together. i am going to repaint the tank while i have it out.

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talked to the gasket maker today, he is willing to cut me some Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank Gage, and Fuel Tank Filler Cap
I Did the CAD Work, and he will cut them on the Water Jet, I just have to pay for the Material. 
Anyone else interested in Viton Gaskets for the Fuel Tank ? would be 2 for the Gage end, each side of the glass, and then a new one for the inside of the Gas Cap. Total of 3 in the Set, doing 2 at .062 thick, then one at .125" thick. one of the .062 is for the Cap.
Viton should be a better material for the Ethanol, at least in chemical compatibility, or could do a Buna-N Cork Gasket Set.

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Trying to figure out the trick to installing the Spring in the hand brake, i bought it from TFS #FS-136, got the little picture and understand it no problem. I am not able to get the spring in per the diagram. 

Spring is really tight and been kicking my butt. to the point i have ruined the paint on the lever and handle trying to get it in there.

Is there a trick to easy way to install the spring per the diagram ??

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ok guys here is what i did, and man it was easy and went together like nothing.  hope this helps anyone doing this themselves.

i removed the bottom bolt that holds the prawl and lever w/ lock. removed the prawl, and then pulled the rod out of the way of the handle.  i then put the spring in the handle the way it goes, per the Filling Station diagram. then put the other end of the spring through the hole in the brake handle where it goes, then clipped on my needle nose vise grips, and pulled the handle and spring up and into place, and put in the first bolt to hold the handle in position. then gently release the spring from the vise grips. could also use something else to hold if needed.

  Brake Spring Install Pict 1

Needle Nose Close Up

  Spring in position, Bolt 1 secured.

Overall Picture of position i used to install Spring
ignore the tape, it held the handle while i touched up paint :)

Then you can flip the prawl lock and lever back around, put it in position install prawl and install bolt, then install the end of the lever in the handle and install hardware. consider it done !!

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this was really easy and takes maybe five minutes, or maybe it took me 5, because i had been fighting it for days and figure this method out !!

IF is it in the car, not sure you can do it this way. but it is easy to remove and well worth the time to make this easy on yourself !!

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Ordered some lacing from TFS, and finally got it in. Took my time and removed the old, looks Original lacing from the radiator and Cowl. Going to strip down and prime/ paint the black sections of the radiator/ support before i lace it back up. Removing all those little rivets was a pain. Removing the lacing from the cowl was pretty easy, i removed it in reverse of the installation instructions.

Now on installing the Lacing on the Cowl, How far/ close towards the center brace/ pin should i take the fabric on the lacing ??
Looking at this   Cowl Lacing picture, you can see that the lacing fabric was past the third hole out from the center. so about 1.5-2 inches. is this correct or should i put the fabric all the way to the metal when i push the core through and bend it over ??   Lacing all the way in & up  or   lacing out from the center past third hole 

how is everyone else doing it ?? the   TFS  instructions do not spec out how or where to do the fabric on top the cowl

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Was really easy to do, only pain was pulling that wire back on itself up through the top of the cowl, too some convincing and working, but got it done.  have to say it looks really nice, I am really happy with it. 

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Stripped, primed, and painted the bottom of the radiator shroud, as well as part of the radiator brackets/ housing.
Then installed the Lacing on the Radiator. this was really easy followed TFS instructions they sent, and went smoothly.

First Part of Lacing Lined up and Installed
  First Side Complete
  Back Side of Rivets
  Second Side On, and View of the Top

This Lacing went on super easy, and I am very happy with the outcome.

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Wondering if anyone has any pictures/ layouts of HOW the wiring and cables are routed, where and how they are secured along the firewall, and where they go through the firewall or how they go. 

Trying to get the spaghetti and cluster fudge under the dash and on the firewall inside cleaned up. they just ran wires/ cables where ever !! 

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Thanks to Bare Feet for the reference Photos, i spent about 1.5 hours last night starting to work on cleaning up under the dash & firewall.

I reinstalled the Speedo that I had JY Dog Fix for me, Thanks !!  Replaced all the misc mixed up screws under there. and then started cleaning up the wiring.
  Speedo Installed and Wires Straightened Out

Passenger Side
Notice the 2 Black Wires, looks like they go to the dome light switch

How and where are these guys routed ?? do not see them in the reference Photos ?? looks like the are along the sill plate coming from the back pillar, then they are just hanging from there up to the back of the dash.

Does this look correct for the Passenger side so far ??

Will start on the Drivers Side Next. Install the Speedo cable and secure that to the firewall as well.

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Working on routing my wires under the dash as well as the Speedo Cable. Thanks to Bare Feet, looks like the Speedo goes down the back center of the firewall through a hold down w/ bolt. but WHERE does it go from there ??

does it go behind the pedals (between pedal rod and radiator side), or in front of pedals (between pedal rod and brake cross bar). are there ANY other hold downs/ clamps on the cable ??

any pictures of the proper routing would be appreciated. unfortunately the PO did not have it hooked up properly and it was hanging in limbo.

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