chistech Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Keep plugging away Jerry. How is the motor coming? it will be good to see your car on the your so you and your family can enjoy it. Are you shooting for this summer for completion? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 Thanks Ted, Trans first, then on to the motor... Waiting for the Hardware to arrive, then i can start to reassemble the Trans and components. Then I will start to work on the Engine, tear down and clean it up, then paint it up. Hopefully be able to start put it all back together and get it in the car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Alright started working on the Engine Itself... Used KBS Klean to degrease and clean up the engine for paint Manifold SideOther Side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Masked off teh NON Paint parts/ area Push Ride Side CoveredManifold SideBottom MaskTiming & Water Pump Mask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Painting the Engine Manifold SidePush Rod Side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 The 1930 Dodge 8 engine was painted fully assembled, including the water pump and valve covers and the manifolds. There was a bit of overspray on the exhaust manifold that burnt off quickly. So the valve covers and push rod covers were painted separately when they assembled Chev's? This would be extra cost... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Chevrolet did the same, but I am doing them in pieces. This way everything will be coated and protected, look nice and I will feel good about it all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 worked on my front end for reinstall of the driveline soon. where there was a coolant leak, seems it ate the paint of several places, plus a few bad spots on the frame itself. Cleaned it up, prepped surface, then primed, and will apply 2 cost of top coat on it. Front Cross Bar cleaned upBad spot inside frame railStearing Linkage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Masked off and Primer Being Applied Masked off And PrimingSteering Linkage PrimedTrans Mount PrimedInside Rail Primed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Applying Top Coat Trans Mount PaintedInside Rail Painted Tomorrow going to try and clean up the front Cross Member and get it primed and painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 while tearing down the 1929 Engine, and getting ready for reassembly decided to tear down and rebuild the Fuel Pump, figure at least replace the diaphragm with a Ethanol Version. here is what it looked like before the rebuild when engine was removed: 1929 Fuel Pump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Tore it down and laid out all the parts: Fuel Pump Tore Down Rebuild Kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Took my dremel and small brushes and cleaned up the housing and removed all gasket residue from t surfaces. Housing & Components Cleaned Up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Rebuilt the pump with new springs and components, new diaphragm assembly and ready to go 1929 Diaphragm InstalledNew Springs Installed in Lower HousingLower Housing Installed with New Gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Upper Housing, new valves installed with springs and such Upper Housing Rebuilt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Fuel Pump Assembled and ready for Re Install... Fuel Pump Rebuilt 01Fuel Pump Rebuilt 02Fuel Pump Rebuilt 03Fuel Pump Rebuilt 04Fuel Pump Rebuilt 05Fuel Pump Rebuilt 06Fuel Pump Rebuilt 07 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 All the small details add so much time to our restorations for sure. Just keep plugging along Jerry, the end of the tunnel is near! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipdang Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Looks great! Out of curiousity (and ignorance) would these have ever been painted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 not by the factory... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 installed my redone crankcase cover last night. installed with new hardware and gasket. i used a lil Permatex No 2 on both sides to be safe and sure a good seal. 1929 Engine Front View Crankcase Cover BEFORE1929 Engine Front View Crankcase Cover AFTER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 22, 2017 Author Share Posted March 22, 2017 Few Picts of ProcessCover GasketCrankcase Cover as RemovedCrankcase Cover Painted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 working on putting my 1929 Engine back together, i removed all the old tappets and replaced them with a new set from C&P Automotive (Billy Possum) ordered all the goodies including new gaskets for the Push Rod Cover.Old Tappets RemovedNew set of Tappets from C&P they were cleaned as per included instructions, then i applied a coat of 50/50 motor oil & STP to help them slide into place as well as preserve them until the engine is fired back up and libricated via oil.Looking down into a NEW Tappet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 The New tappets installed smoothly without any hassle or resistance. New Tappets Installed 1-3New Tappets Installed 4-6Looking down into NEW Tappet Installed and coated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 The Gasket kit i Acquired from an Estate Sale actually has CORK Gasket for the Push Rod Cover, Valve Cover, and the Oil Pan !! I installed a thin coat of Permatex No 2 to the Push Rod Cover, installed the Gasket and lined it up, then a thin coat of Permatex on the Gasket and Installed the Cover to the Engine, aligned it and Secure it in place with hardware. Dry Fit of Cork GasketThin Coat of Permatex No 2 w/ Cork Gasket InstalledCover Installed and Secured to Engine SideSide View of Gasket Sealed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Installing the Throwout Bearing into the Clutch Fork, there is a Clutch Fork Spring that goes in and Holds the Bearing in place and allows it to rotate to stay flat against the Clutch Throwout Bearing Sleeve. I bought NEW springs from TFS and this is what they look like installed. They do not sit flush or go all the way inSpring Install Top Notice the recess looks, like pin should sit in to stay, pin is in far as it will goSpring Install Side 1 another view of springSpring Install Side 2 If i pull the spring out so the first bulge sits in the recess on the fork. it feels sloppy like the spring will just pop out. NOT securely seated. Original Springs notice the shape of the original spring. Here is the Original Spring (TOP) vs the NEW Spring (Bottom) Spring Comparison Original Spring Installed Original Spring Install Depth Notice that spring installed that the depth of the spring goes in a good ways and sits secured New Spring Installed New Spring Install Depth notice only about 1/4" goes in Edited May 17, 2017 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) When i took apart my 1929 Transmission, the Bottom Flywheel Cover, has a drain hole, an in that drain hole was a Cotter pin. not sure if the pin was to help get the oil out and away from the pan when it drips vs run down the side and hanging on. Is this factory or something the PO did ?! Should i Put a new Cotter Pin in or ?? Edited May 17, 2017 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Here is a sketch i did up off how the cover fits and the spacing i have 1929 Push Rod Cover DIMS Red Dims are overall length of Studs Green Dim is Spacer Length White is the Space / Gap Left Dim is Offset of Cover Right Dim is Est Gasket Thickness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I am wondering what it takes to remove the fuel tank from my 1929. Since i am cleaning and checking everything as i go, figured i mine as well drain it flush it and clean it out. Looking at the tank, looks like there are ONLY 2 straps holding the tank in place. Is this all that holds the tank to the frame ?? and to remove those 2 straps looks like there are two bolts/ nuts on the front side that hold the straps to the frame. so if i support the tank, remove the fuel line from the tank, i then can remove the hardware, loosen the straps, and then slowly lower the gas tank down ?? then installation is the reverse ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 how can i check the fuel sending unit, and what does it look like ?? 1-seems there is a plug of sorts on the bottom of the tank, i assume to drain the tank if needed ?? 2-looks like the gas gauge is all one piece internal to the tank, and looks like i should be able to slowly thread it off and gently pull it out of the tank ?? any tricks/ tips or anything that i should be weary of when pulling it out to validate & inspect it ?? 3-assume there are gaskets to seal the unit to the tank to prevent leaks, or just threaded on and that is all ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Ordering some hardware for my 1929 Running Board & Apron. Looking at the MPL it list 1/4-20 @ 3/4 & 1 long then 5/16-18 3/4, 1, and 1-1/4 long which one are used to:1-Apron to Running Board Sides2-Apron to Running Board Ends of Running BoardsLooking at what I have on mine now is NO help, PO used whatever he had laying around, it is a hodge podge of hardware, types, sizes, materials, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Wondering if there are any replacements for the Universal Joint Ball washers #348133 they are shown in red here: Washers 348133 seems i am missing one, and the other looks abused. or can i make new ones, or is there a substitute for them ?? or do i need to find a WHOLE new Assembly (Mushroom) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 looks like they tore one out and then tried to get the other one out, it is bent, warped, distorted, twisted, etc...I was thinking to get a few cut out, with a slot so i could work it in like a spiral, and then put the o-ring in between. not sure what my other options are at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Thanks to Dave39MD !! He had a NORS u-joint housing sitting around, that i was able to acquire for my rebuild and i was also able to successfully rebuild the original one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I was able to source 2 Spiral washers to replace the lost & destroyed washers in my u-joint housing. I cleaned out the end, and deburred the housing where the washers & o-ring will go. this was to ensure the spiral washers sit properly and the o-ring would NOT get damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 Installed First Spiral Washer and then pressed it to the bottom of the groove.Spiral Washer Installed I then installed the second Spiral washer and pulled it to the top Second Spiral Washer Installed The o-ring now fits nicely between the two washers just like it should. and should be completely usable without issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I opted for the 2 turn vs the 1 turn, since the 1 turn have a gap in them and figured this would cause issues with the o-ring, an edge to pinch on or a gap for the o-ring to try to escape.really happy with the 2 turn easy to install and looks great. NO sharp edges and easy to remove. as you can see the custom lip they have for removal !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 I contacted the Manufacturer directly, as we do tons of business with them for the company i work for. gave him some specs and he sent me some samples to try. a few 1 turn and a few 2 turn. If they work he says he can produce some for me in batches of 100 due to production run limits. so that would be 50 sets and would be pretty cheap, under $10 a set maybe even less !! I had them make them fit a little tight, so they do NOT slop around in the housing. should they be loose or snug ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Well last Monday i was home and was finally to the point of putting the engine & transmission back into my 1929. i double checked everything and then rolled the car back half way out the garage, then set up my engine hoist, and figured out a way to sling and hook it up to drop it back in. I used my hand dandy moving blankets from Harbor Freight, they work great as fender protectors. Also Taped on some cardboard to back of engine to avoid scratching up the firewall and engine itself. I did bump a few things going back in, so had to do some touch up on pain, mainly the frame. 1929 Driveline Ready to go Back In1929 Driveline Almost There1929 Driveline Settled In1929 Driveline All Ready Engine is in, now to drop in the pans and then start bolting on the accessories. Edited May 17, 2017 by BearsFan315 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Working on putting Engine, Components, and Accessories back into the 1929 Bay. Wondering when is the best time to install the Splash/ Underpans ?? should they go in LAST after everything else engine, components, accessories ?or should they on right after engine is installed BEFORE components and accessories are installed ??Thanks in Advance !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BearsFan315 Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 While working on the car, i decided to remove the Hand Brake Handle & Assembly and Refinish it. When removed from the car, hardware was corroded and the handle had seen better days. 1929 hnad Brake Lever Assembly 1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1a 1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 1b 1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2a 1929 Hand Brake Lever Assembly Close Up 2b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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