Earl B. Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 When I try to take off from a stop, the motor revs as I push on the gas, but I go nowhere. At a point the transmission 'grabs' and off we go. If I push on the gas pedal hard, it grabs and off we go like lightening, but, I don't like to drive that way. If I put it in low, and I change gears while in motion, everything is fine.When I'm stopped, in drive and put it in low it KLUNKS and the car jerks (foot on brake). Also with a loud noise.Can anyone help? I'd like to be able to push on the gas pedal 'normally' and take off in a nice, elegant manner, not like Batman. Thanks in advance, B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 Check the fluid level; check the shift linkage adjustment as outlined in the shop manual; check pressures as outlined in the shop manual...then get back to us.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 2, 2013 Share Posted June 2, 2013 The klunk could be transmission mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 re: the Klunk... Check the idle RPM. It is very low on these early nailheads ( my 56 is 450 at idle although I have it at 500). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 You could be losing suction on the pump and re-establishing it when you feel the klunk. Needs some gauges installed.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 The Dynaflow is a very simple trans but there are a couple of things that could be causing the problem. If the stabulater doesn't mesh with the framustat at the exact moment of engagement that could be the cause. Simply adjust the external bezel nut to the required torque using the king spine as a rough guide until the shift pattern is complete. If that does't work try to release the traction fork while accelerating. If the gription improves with the fork released you will most likely have to have the bell curve relined................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 LOL Bob, but seriously "B", what you may be feeling may be normal for that year transmission. I don't know how to help you determine that. I might suggest running a temporary tachometer and get an assistant to record the RPM ranges when you feel these issues, then report back here with those results and maybe some of the 55 guys can tell you if you are correct or if this thing is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 Check the fluid level; check the shift linkage adjustment as outlined in the shop manual; check pressures as outlined in the shop manual...then get back to us.Willie Like he said. (By the way, mine does that too but is so weak that the drive clutch won't hold under power. It is a temporary trans and an oringinal that I just plopped in while I fix mine. Surprising that it worked at all, I think I need to drive it more and soften up some piston seals.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 The Dynaflow is a very simple trans but there are a couple of things that could be causing the problem. If the stabulater doesn't mesh with the framustat at the exact moment of engagement that could be the cause. Simply adjust the external bezel nut to the required torque using the king spine as a rough guide until the shift pattern is complete. If that does't work try to release the traction fork while accelerating. If the gription improves with the fork released you will most likely have to have the bell curve relined................Bob............Dang Bob, you need to use spell-check. Did you mean "king spline" instead of "king spine" ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) WOW John, you're good. I didn't catch that myself and I copied it directly from the shop manual. Any fool knows the king "spine" is in the aft stiffener arch and the king "spline" is part of the forward traction fork assembly. I hope I didn't screw the OP'er up..................Bob Edited June 3, 2013 by Bhigdog (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 (edited) King Spine is the right term. I've had trouble with the liner disengaging. The stiffener arches show good here. Decentrity is what you need to watch for. Here is a bore scope picture, the best way to check them: Edited June 3, 2013 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 King Spine! Phhhhttttt! I'm outa here.! (Bob, I AM Good, modest also.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 King Spine is the right term. I've had trouble with the liner disengaging. The stiffener arches show good here. Decentrity is what you need to watch for. Here is a bore scope picture, the best way to check them:[ATTACH=CONFIG]196116[/ATTACH]Hey wait a minute. That looks suspiciously similar to the pix my proctologist took.......................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 "Hey wait a minute. That looks suspiciously similar to the pix my proctologist took.......................Bob"So maybe you are a Buick guy more than just "at heart".Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 3, 2013 Share Posted June 3, 2013 "Hey wait a minute. That looks suspiciously similar to the pix my proctologist took.......................Bob"So maybe you are a Buick guy more than just "at heart".BernieHAW HAW HAW........... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 I appreciate the replies, but, do y'all realize how lost I am... Well, the snowball ain't got nothing on me!!!!! I've found one guy who may be able to help, but he wasn't there today. I'll call tomorrow. I'll print all this out and hopefully it will make sense to him.... I can handle the Studebaker and Packard, but this thing is just dang modern for me....If you don't know what snowball I refer to, pm me and I'll tell you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Yes. While we are goofing around here it's not meant to belittle your problem. Speaking frankly, the Dynaflow is a simple trans as far as automatics go but it's still frightfully complicated. From your description you do have a problem. Other than taking wild ass guesses, no one here can positively diagnose the problem with the little info you can provide. I strongly suggest you get a copy of the 55 service manual and either yourself or a qualified service person perform the pressure checks and other tests described in the manual. That, hopefully will start you in the direction of a solution. Good luck...............Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 (edited) B, You most likely have low line pressure causing slow incomplete drive clutch engagement until increased rpm and pump pressure engages clutch pack. The only sure way to troubleshoot is pressure checks like Willie said. The "clunk" is another issue, not transmission related. Higher idle rpm exacerbates the problem but you may have loose mounts on engine or transmission or thrust pad. It should not be harsh at base idle of 450-500. JohnPS Low and reverse always have a more aggressive engagement. Edited June 4, 2013 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Bob, I know you're not belittleing the problem, nor is anyone else. I think this forum is a large part of why I went with a Buick instead of other early memories. If you'll look at some of my posts, you'll see I've made a few off the wall comments too. Of the things I'm missing, the one thing I have been able to hang on to is my sense of humor. One thing, will my driving the car hurt anything? I'm having a ball useing it as my driver!!! I do get some looks to be sure. I just keep a big ole smile on my face. I keep finding small problems, but they will be tended to in time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 The rear transmission pump catches up and takes over at about 30 mph if the front pump is weak, thats why it locks in after you get rolling, As long as you don't make it slip it's fine, just don't take off "fast" in drive, use Low for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I'll be interested to know what you find out.... I'm not having this issue, but always like to know for future needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 When I know something, I'll definitely post here.... It may be something that helps lots of people. After all, we're here to help each other!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 What part of Southeastern NC?? I'm in Charlotte but originally from Beaufort. I sold my last 55 in 2005 to a guy in Wilmington!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 That clunk is not normal in a proper functioning trans mission. I only have to put mine in Low when starting from a standing stop on a VERY steep hill.Hard Shifting when going to Low or Reverse could be the thrust pad.Sent from my BlackBerry 9370 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 That clunk is not normal in a proper functioning trans mission. I only have to put mine in Low when starting from a standing stop on a VERY steep hill.Hard Shifting when going to Low or Reverse could be the thrust pad.Sent from my BlackBerry 9370 using Tapatalk Or 800 idle and loose mounts? Just saying the noise may not be coming FROM the transmission internally, as in a failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 The pressure test noted way back there will guide you. If the specialist doesn't have the gauge set you will be in trouble. The pump can wear enough (in 55 years) the lose suction between the impeller and the case under deceleration.Although I'm not much for wrenches in a can you could get it use to operating temperature and put in a can of TransX from a place like Advance Auto. It is pretty good stuff.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Or 800 idle and loose mounts? Just saying the noise may not be coming FROM the transmission internally, as in a failure.Could be thatSent from my BlackBerry 9370 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 The required gauge for pressure testing is nothing more than an ordinary 200# gauge with a foot or so of rubber pressure line ending in a male pipe fitting ( I think 1/4" NPT). If you can't procure that locally I can lend you mine for the cost of shipping........................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Or 2 quarts of diff lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 I was gone most of the day to Raleigh to the doctor, and a repeat tomorrow to a different doctor.... Thursday, maybe I can do Buick instead of doctors... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d2_willys Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 I was gone most of the day to Raleigh to the doctor, and a repeat tomorrow to a different doctor.... Thursday, maybe I can do Buick instead of doctors... Get an oil pressure gauge 0-100 or there abouts and connect to mainline pressure port. Check line pressure when idling in N or P. If ok, then go to high accumulator port and check that pressure with transmission in D and parking brake set. This will tell you if there is a hydraulic problem. If mainline pressure is bad, then all ranges would be slow in engaging, while high accumulator pressure points to accumulator, direct drive clutch servo leakage, causing slow drive engagement. The klunk could be mounts, u-joints, or low accumulator. Get the manual and do the pressure checks first.:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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