d2_willys

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About d2_willys

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  • Birthday 09/02/1952

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    d2_aero@yahoo.com

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  1. Try this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1974-Buick-Red-Engine-Paint-Spray-Can-EP644S-/182164202183?epid=657985620&hash=item2a69d522c7:g:m2kAAOSwFMZWtfZI&vxp=mtr
  2. Use a small pipe wrench to remove the converter drain plug(s). It will bite the rounded head and should be able to remove.
  3. The 57 and 58 Olds 371 engines are different from the 59-60 371's. The later version was a de-bored 394, which had a different deck height.
  4. 1957 Cadillac's used Bendix Hydrovacs. Perhaps that is what it is for.
  5. If you still have the original accelerator start mechanism, you may be able to use that switch for kickdown. That is of course if you use the carb that has the switch.
  6. I would check the brake switch first. Check the terminals on brake switch for 6 Volts to ground. One should have this. If you have 6 volts on switch, short the two terminals together and see if the brake lights come on. If so, then the switch is either defective, or out of adjustment. Next would be the headlight switch. This is the control for parking lights, head lights, and instrument panel lights. Verify the switch is wired correctly. Blinkers are fairly simple too. Pull the blinker unit and again (with the ignition switch in ign position) check for 6 volts on one of the blinker socket terminals. If 6 volts is there, then you can jumper both terminals together and see if rear lights lite up with turn signal switch in left or right.
  7. If you need a starter relay, why not just find a four or five pin modern relay and wire it accordingly. The relay doesn't need to be a heavy current type, as the solenoid does most of the work. But it must be one that has isolated coil contacts for the accelerator start stuff. You probably can stuff it into the old relay's case for originality look.
  8. Don't recall, but Buick changed over to 12v in 1953. However the Specials with straight 8 might still have been 6v.
  9. Building the "guts" for an electronic regulator is not all that difficult. Make it short and sweet, a switch-mode voltage regulator ic will work fine for both voltage and current regulation, and when connected to a pass transistor the transistor will not allow the battery to drive the generator when engine is off. I have worked on a universal 6 or 12 volt, pos or neg ground circuit, however my time and money are limited at this time. Some time in the future I will finish it up and have one of my friends try it on one of his 12v pos ground Brit cars. (Lucas regulators are more weird than our American units) Another point to be made is that normally there is a capacitor across the battery to ground on the regulator. This helps reduce arcing in those old style units.
  10. Looking to buy a 64-66 ST (or SP) 400 flexplate for 401 or 425 Nailhead. Please PM me if you have one for sale. Thanks
  11. Another thing is to check the grounds of the generator, regulator, and battery. There should be NO resistance between any of them. If the regulator is not grounded well, then the voltage regulator will not work correctly and give you the issues you are experiencing.
  12. check the generator by shorting the field terminal on either the generator or regulator to ground. If the ammeter goes up as you rev the engine, the generator is probably good and the regulator might be going bad.
  13. Wire 4 diodes as such: Each anode of the diode is connected to each other, then goes to a separate hazard flasher and switch. Then each cathode of the diode (banded end) goes to wire leading to each brake/turn signal. Two of the diodes will go to front turn signals, other two diodes will go the rear brake / turn signals. Each of these wires can be attached to wires coming out of the turn signal switch.
  14. No high band in a Dynaflow, only a clutch pak that engages when in drive. There is a high accumulator which slows the engagement of the clutch pak. It is between the torque converter housing and the main body of the transmission. Another accumulator for the Lo range is on the opposite side from the high accumulator. I would check the high accumulator first to see if that is leaking or not working correctly. These transmissions are pretty easy to rebuild. The big issue is removing from the car. All that torque tube stuff, along with rear end has to be moved back to get the transmission out.
  15. Check with YnZ wiring in California. They sell the insulated discs and terminals used for the sockets. You can wire these up yourself and save time splicing to all black wires on new sockets. Just clean the inside of the sockets good, then slide stripped wire end thru disc and solder or crimp to terminals. Make sure the spring behind the disc is good too. Pretty simple and you get to keep the OEM wire colors.