d2_willys

Had a vehicle that would do similar things. Turned out to be the non vented gas cap. Check your cap for proper venting.

Check the switch at the light or between the left front door and left rear door. In the door jam/headlight switch instrument panel position the slide switch contacts are probably dirty. Wiggle the switch handle while a door is open.

ok, let me know if you decide to sell the engine. Thanks

Since the generator was wired so that the "armature" terminal was grounded, polarizing the generator would be a good thing to do. Thought here is that the residual magnetism of the generator has been lost by having the armature grounded, therefore not polarized. A very low idle could also cause the generator not to charge.

Are you interested in selling the good runner 263 engine?

You really need to get the manual and check for "main line" pressure port. Measure the pressure. That way we can know what you're up against. From what the video has for the whining sound, it sounds like it is coming from either the front pump, torque converter, or even bearings that carry torque converter, input shafts, etc.

Do you have the dual path automatic used in 1961-63 specials and skylarks? If so, what price, and what state are you in?

Hmmm! I was just wondering what would happen if the voltage regulator Field relay got stuck closed and allowed the generator to output 12 volts more than the battery is charged to. I would think that if the vehicle was a standard shift, that the starter relay would activate and cause the starter to run! NOT GOOD! 🤬 In the automatic vehicles, the neutral safety would only allow this scenario to happen in Park or Neutral, and would be less likely to have this happen.

Nice car. Does it still have Flite Pitch Dynaflow (PRNDG) or the Variable Pitch Dynaflow (PNDLR)?

Dale: I sent you an email about a week ago, noting that I am interested in the intake manifold (if you can find or have one). Can you please reply as to what the status is for this part? Thanks

Thanks for the clarification.

Yes, the Century, Super, and Roadmaster all had 300hp engines that were 4bbl. The wagons were another story. I believe the Estate wagon engine was based on the Special engine and came with a 2bbl setup. The Caballero may be a 4bbl setup.

Do you still have the 364 4 bbl intake manifold (you say it had been sitting on a shelf)? If so, I am interested in buying it from you. Let me know. You can PM me. thanks

Do you still have a 401 core with a Dynaflow crankshaft to go in it? Both the block and crank do not have to be useable. The core would need used main bearings to mount the crank.

Converting gauges to 12 volts is relatively simple. Runtz regulators are a simple way of doing the job, however the diodes they use will probably get warm. Especially when the gauge sender is at zero ohms (full on gauge). You can use resistors to drop the voltage, but they will also need to be 5 watt resistors or higher. And the gauge will not be very accurate. The Ford constant voltage regulator does, in fact, send out a 50% duty cycle, which averages 6 volts from the 12 volt input, but with GM balancing coil type gauges the Ford regulator will cause the needle to oscillate. You could put a capacitor across the output of the regulator to ground to filter the oscillations out. My preference is using a voltage regulator such as a 7806 or a LM340-6. These are very simple to use and are available from Digikey.. To install, connect the +12 volt ignition to the leftmost pin, the middle pin or tab is grounded, and the rightmost pin is the output to the power pin of the gas gauge. Install 1uf non polarized capacitor from ground to input pin, and one (same value) capacitor from ground to output pin. You won't be disappointed!

Yes, not concerned. I don't need a rebuildable engine, just interested in the dynaflow interface to the nailhead.

Do you have 1957 to 1963 nailhead block core with dynaflow crank installed? Does not have to be rebuildable, but crank flange must be ok. I am in Kansas.

Try this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1974-Buick-Red-Engine-Paint-Spray-Can-EP644S-/182164202183?epid=657985620&hash=item2a69d522c7:g:m2kAAOSwFMZWtfZI&vxp=mtr

Use a small pipe wrench to remove the converter drain plug(s). It will bite the rounded head and should be able to remove.

The 57 and 58 Olds 371 engines are different from the 59-60 371's. The later version was a de-bored 394, which had a different deck height.

1957 Cadillac's used Bendix Hydrovacs. Perhaps that is what it is for.

If you still have the original accelerator start mechanism, you may be able to use that switch for kickdown. That is of course if you use the carb that has the switch.

I would check the brake switch first. Check the terminals on brake switch for 6 Volts to ground. One should have this. If you have 6 volts on switch, short the two terminals together and see if the brake lights come on. If so, then the switch is either defective, or out of adjustment. Next would be the headlight switch. This is the control for parking lights, head lights, and instrument panel lights. Verify the switch is wired correctly. Blinkers are fairly simple too. Pull the blinker unit and again (with the ignition switch in ign position) check for 6 volts on one of the blinker socket terminals. If 6 volts is there, then you can jumper both terminals together and see if rear lights lite up with turn signal switch in left or right.

If you need a starter relay, why not just find a four or five pin modern relay and wire it accordingly. The relay doesn't need to be a heavy current type, as the solenoid does most of the work. But it must be one that has isolated coil contacts for the accelerator start stuff. You probably can stuff it into the old relay's case for originality look.

Don't recall, but Buick changed over to 12v in 1953. However the Specials with straight 8 might still have been 6v.