Ian_Greenlaw Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 looking good guys......keep the pics coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Zetnick Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Looks beautiful! I think that funny light grayed blue-green color is correct; it's what I have on my DA 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 The engine paint on my 32 DL was a gray-green also. There was a nice sample on the top of the bellhousing that escaped the elements and the sun. It looks close to your color, maybe not quite as green, but it's hard to tell from photographs as the color temperature of the light can cause the photo to be off-color. Did you have your engine paint mixed, or was it from a rattle can? Either way, it looks great. I'm just getting ready to clean and paint my engine and I hope it turns out half as good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 Spasticgirl, good to see you are making progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGirl Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks guys! It has been a while!It's been slow because of being too damn cold to work out in the garage, Doug!! I do have some rubber door pieces that we're going to ship over to you to see if you can help with them. I should probably get off our butts and do that!! lolIan....I hope you got the pictures I sent to you! Let me know if you have any problems with them!Taylormade....The engine paint was rattle can that we purchased from Romar. I believe Dennis used an epoxy primer first, but he'll have to verify that.Have a great day guys!Shannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGirl Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Dennis roasting head nuts over an open fire!! Bahahahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 So how did they taste? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Dennis roasting head nuts over an open fire!! Bahahahaha[ATTACH=CONFIG]300294[/ATTACH]WHY?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 WHY?? John did you ever taste raw nuts, they are much better roasted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yep....you're right. Makes total sense now..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 WHY??Since I painted the block and head separately, that left the head nuts unpainted and rusty, and if painted, no chance of getting them torqued without wrecking the paint... So I decided to try heating them with a propane torch and dunking them in motor oil until blackened. I think they look good, We'll see how they hold out over time- I plan to use this technique for some more fasteners in the next few days...I hope they don't turn rusty right away!:confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Dennis, not sure if you plan to show in AACA? BUT they seem to think the head nuts should NOT be painted as if the engine was painted before it was assembled. I personally find this hard to believe but so far haven't found photo evidence. My twisted logic would say the engine was completely assembled and then painted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Dennis, not sure if you plan to show in AACA? BUT they seem to think the head nuts should NOT be painted as if the engine was painted before it was assembled. I personally find this hard to believe but so far haven't found photo evidence. My twisted logic would say the engine was completely assembled and then painted.I agree. I cannot imagine the production line stopping to assemble the head/engine or taping it off to paint and then assemble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Made a little more progress- Got the carb cleaned up and re-mounted, just waiting on a float..Before and after- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 NICE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 I agree. I cannot imagine the production line stopping to assemble the head/engine or taping it off to paint and then assemble.So do I.I am informed by our Dodge 8 expert (DC8Dave) that the engine was assembled before painting the same colour all over, including valve covers, core plugs, oil filler tube, thermostat housing, sump and water pump. The idea was to get it painted with minimum cost, hence a minimum of fooling around with masking etc.. This way they would only mask the manifold and flywheel housing mating surfaces, the distributor surface and the water pump shaft and gland nut. One thing I am uncertain of is the air silencer bracket that is attached under a head nut. Apparently it was black so mounting it after engine painting would damage the paint on the nut. So what did they do - mask it as well, not worry about over-spray, fix the nuts that were damaged or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 I was tempted to start a new post titled "NOW we're getting somewhere!" but decided to keep it all in one long post, like Ian-..lol Been busy with some detail work that takes a lot of time, but a couple things made a big difference lately.. Here are some before and after pics..I found it cool to uncover the green under the carriage bolt on the front bumper brackets...proves they are original and they were painted in the center section.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Dennis, with your car in as good of condition when you started and your pictures it will be a big help to other owners. It is very good to document details like you are doing. BUT it still falls into the statement that DB never built two cars alike. I am really impressed with your work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Thanks, Doug, The rubber parts are working out great, I just came back inside from installing the rest of the door bumpers and it's nice to hear the proper noise when I close the doors! Even though it may not be correct to original, I like how the fastener blackening looks...(I think some of these items should have been painted body color) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 It's all looking great. Was particularly interested in the windscreen as I am just doing my DA at the moment, looks similar if not identical. What did you use to seal the windscreen glass into the frame?John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 I was going to use a strip of thick black felt like it had from the factory, but it turned out the new safety glass is thicker, so I took the advice of the guy who cut the glass for me and just used black silicone. I struggled with getting it to look right around the edges, and still may run a tiny bead around the outside in an attempt to tidy it up- I did the same with the back glass...To me it seemed like the felt was just inviting water in to rust the frame- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Dennis, do you have some good closeups of your window weather strips you could email me. I have a friend not on this forum trying to figure out his car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Thanks Dennis, I agree about the original felt and in one spot on my frame it promoted the rust very well!! I am about to fix it but it won't be easy.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 John---My upper frame was still ok, but I had a new lower made by NC Industries, and they did a great job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Not sure if this helps but the guy who made my glass said don't use silicone, use polyeurathane instead. It has better weathering properties. I've used this to hold the glass into their runners, sealing the rubbers and he also made a complete rubber for the wind out window from this stuff.Just a thought.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Hi! Looking for suggestions on this little detail, hoping some of you have dealt with these moldings on past restorations... These are the plated moldings that go around the cowl and along the bottom of the body. They will polish up somewhat, but are pitted and rusty. The debate is whether to re-plate or replace them..In John Bittence's book says you can use new stainless moldings sold by Max Merritt, but it says to fill with "low melt alloy" to get it to bend to the proper contour, which sounds like a real mess...My original ones are kind of bent up, I'm afraid those little defects will really show up when chrome plated...Any thoughts or ideas? Thanks, Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Dennis, if you go the NEW route use Woods metal. It melts at 160 degrees, I use a toaster oven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Enjoying reading post on progress, great pictures nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Well...The good news is tonight we had the engine running (a little) and it sounded pretty good, but the bad new is it has a couple oil leaks...Anybody know what these little holes are all about and are they supposed to be plugged with something? 2 of them are easy to get to, and one behind the generator that's not. All 3 had this little, slow stream of oil coming out while it was running...We couldn't run it long since there is no cooling system whatsoever yet. Other progress lately has been limited to receiving things like glass, wiring harness, and of course getting the timing etc. situated....It was good to hear it fire up, but will take some more tuning to get it to idle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 I am not familiar with that engine, but if the oil is under pressure they are probably cleanouts of some sort on an oil galley. Maybe you could hook up a pressure gauge in one of them.They look like they may be related to the camshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 You do ask some interesting questions!! I have three DA engines here, two do NOT have the tapped holes, one does. It appears that they go into the area where the intermediate camshaft bearings are located. They are also NOT shown in my owners manual. The engine that has them is in the DA that I am restoring, I have yet to run that engine, but it has two metal thread screws in those holes. Had never thought about this before. Do they go in and prevent the intermediate camshaft bearings from turning? Probably not, but do not understand why all my engines are not the same. Sorry, but I do not have an answer really.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 I'm wondering if they are soft plugs and gotten eaten in the hot tank? I would find out before you run it much, might be leaking oil pressure internally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Both my 29 engine and 30 engines have plugs on intake sideLook like brass plugs penned in placeCan't see any on starter side??Jesse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Jesse's comments prompted me to have a better look at the two engines that I had previously said had no plugs and with a proper cleanup, they do indeed have little brass plugs, installed flush with the block. They were only visible when I cleaned off the paint. As my one engine that has metal thread screws (1/4 inch) inserted in the holes has been reconditioned, I now believe that the brass plugs were replaced with the screws during that process. It leads me to believe that they were removed to possibly clean out the oil galleries to the camshaft intermediate bearings. If I can shift enough junk to gain access to one of the engines I will try to remove the camshaft to check. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 (edited) The brass inserts may have been destroyed when the engine block was hot-tanked - assuming it was hot-tanked during the rebuild. Another question - did you paint your engine block with epoxy primer before the finish coat? Edited May 22, 2015 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 Pulled the camshaft out of one of my engines this morning. There is an oil hole in the camshaft bearing that lines up with the brass plugs (or in the case of my other engine, the 1/4 inch bolts that replace the brass plugs). I assume that during manufacture, the hole would have been drilled in the side of the engine block, through where the camshaft bearing would be, and into the oil gallery. This supplies oil to the camshaft bearing. Hopefully you can see enough in my photos to show this, it is pretty awkward to photograph. The actual camshaft bearing that is pressed into the journal has only one oil hole, the one shown, which is opposite side of the journal to the brass plug hole. The brass plug hole is blocked off by the bearing itself, although there is probably a groove around the journal to allow some oil to get around to dribble out the hole as you described. Hope this and the photos make sense. To go any further I would need to remove the bearing and maybe drill out the plug, which I would prefer not to do at this stage, but can do if you need me to.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 (edited) If it were me I would get some lead shot and hammer it in there.The other two options that may work as well. Hammering some brass in there or take the cam out and tap the holes for plugs.The depth of these holes to the bearing has not been discussed. Although in Bullfrogs pic it appears the there is a web that one may be able to tap with a bottom tap allowing a plug. A pipe tap and plug would be the best fix. Edited May 23, 2015 by JACK M (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Thank you guys for all your research and input...I have been working on other things on the car and haven't been back to the forum in a few days. I did email John Bittence, He said the brass plugs are to hold the bearings in place. I also talked to the engine re-builder, and he was confident that the plugs are firmly holding the cam bearings in place. He suggested doing whatever it takes to just seal them up, and should be ok. I was thinking brass, but I like the lead shot idea also...Epoxy was also suggested. If I knew for sure that area was thick enough, I'd drill it out and tap for a bolt, But I think I will save that for a last resort- Lately been working on fire wall related items, including vacuum tank, wiring, and made a new panel for inside the fire wall. Yes, I did use epoxy primer, and Pake's showed "bake & blast" on the invoice- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIClassicGuy Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 This weekends' progress...Sure changes the look of the car.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 8, 2015 Share Posted June 8, 2015 Looking quite fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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