Kevin bc Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 Kevin BC here . Another option which I used on my DC is to run a wire in where the centre wire comes in and put it under one of the cap screws. If you put it on the fuel line then you are relying on the connection between the fuel line , the tank through the screw, to the unit. that makes a few places that a dry joint can happen. Make sure there is no paint under the screw on the unit. the idea behind this is you want an earth to the unit not the tank. Kevin BC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted April 12, 2023 Author Share Posted April 12, 2023 Thanks Kevin, Not sure if its accessable but I'll definitely suss it out tomorrow. Cheers Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted April 12, 2023 Share Posted April 12, 2023 On 4/11/2023 at 9:56 AM, Minibago said: Sad to say Spinneyhill is no longer with us. I remember when I started my roadster restoration back in 2019 he told me to hurry up at the start of the thread because he said he hasn’t got long to go. He must of known he was crook. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 7, 2023 Author Share Posted November 7, 2023 Its been a while since I posted anything. Back and forth to Hospitals with my wife and she is now sorted I'm glad to say. Just got her sorted and my daughter said she's having a baby so been making things for her. I have still been working on the Dodge. I was never really happy with the horns ( Zinc Die Cast ) which had been Chrome Painted initially and have tried five different people to try and get them rechromed. No one wanted to touch them as they said they are very difficult and if not done properly then you'll be back to square one. One guy stripped them back and you can see all the pitting. He said if you don't get rid off all that you have to start over again. I came across a place in South Australia and they said they would do them after I sent detailed photos over. Totally amazed at the difference. I don't know their process they use but very happy with the result ( now all I have to do is put them back together again ) One question I do have......how on earth do you get the hubcaps off a 34 without buggering up the paint work. I have tried everything. Still got a few oil leaks and tuning issues. I've sorted the trim problem out and am happy with the result. Hoping to drive her on the road soon. ( I've been around the court where I live but not down the street as it won't make it back up yet ) Cheers Ian 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiminyfixit Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Having dealt with pot metal re chroming many years ago, I found a source back then that solved the pitting problems with many dips through the copper solution, along with sanding in between coatings of the copper, which eventually fills the pits. I've also heard of using "Muggy Weld", but I'm not personally familiar with it. BOY those horns are gorgeous!!!!!!. Regarding the hub cap removal; I find that a carpenters pry bar, which is fairly wide, helps to distribute the impact, and put a piece of solid cardboard on the painted surface underneath the bar, (not corrugated cardboard). VERY glad to hear life is normalizing!!! Jim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 Duct tape on the tire/hub cap wrench to leave no marks. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 So everything was returning to normal and my wife had to have the Trapezoid bone removed in her hand and tendons strung up and down to replace it. Out of action for a month or so, which means not a lot of time to work on the car. Also my daughter had a baby so first time a grandfather ! I was getting it ready to take down for a Roadworthy and notice a bit of water on the drive popped it up on the hoist and a pin hole leak appeared. To do a temp fix thought I'd drill and tap just to get me though the Roadworthy. Went to drill a pilot hole and the drill bit went straight through.....bugger. Drilled a wider hole and tapped and inserted a plug. I had to bend the little handles up otherwise it hits the chassis. I fill with water this Thursday and see how it goes. If no go, then the radiator will have to come out. Not sure if I can remove it without moving the cowl ? On a lighter note, I have ironed out the engine issues and its about 90% now and we took it for a few test drives ( illegally ) up the road. Also mounted one of the redone horns in place....a lot better than the first attempt. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin bc Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Ian Kevin BC here, was that "A Class Metal finishers" that did your horns here in Adelaide, if it was I'll just give them a plug , as I use them, just sent the 6 wheel bars for the spare tire wells down to them ,very badly pitted, thought they would never get them perfect, but they came back, with not a pit to be seen, they do an excellent job, apparently do defence work as well , which you don't get if your work is not up to par. They are not the cheapest, but the price is reflected in the quality of their work. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Yep, A Class Metal Finishers in South Australia....wasn't cheap but what is these days !...the quality was amazing compared to what they were. So if your in OZ and looking for someone to do Zinc Die Cast Repair and Chroming then you can't go past these guys. Believe me, I went to 6 different people and no one would touch the horns. Even the guy I take with me couldn't believe how many people you have to go through to get someone really good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 Congratulations on becoming a grandfather for the first time. The car is looking just amazing. That was a nice fix on the radiator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 13 Author Share Posted February 13 Thanks Matt, Not sure if it is a fix. There was bugger all metal to tap a thread in....I'm terrified that it will pop while driving so the bottom line I think the radiator will need to come out. I shouldn't have taken so long doing my resto ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minibago Posted February 15 Share Posted February 15 Grandchildren The reward for having children. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Very true....love my kids and now the little one. Well....took the car our for a test and it was dripping water. Made the decision to remove the radiator. Reached up and undid the plug we tapped in by hand so it would not have lasted. Removed the Generator, Belt, Hoses and water pump and bypass. Levelled the base of the bypass to get it ready. Next is the bonnet and radiator I'd appreciate the thoughts of the group here......Do I just use a gasket, or a high temp silicone gasket sealer or both. I've read a lot and seems to be a mixed train of thought. I used a paper gasket and a smear of the high temp stuff on the bypass and only the high temp stuff on the water pump and never had a leak but that was while I was restoring the car. Bear in mind there are probably a few pits in the metal here and there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 Well that escalated quickly...removed everything.....bonnet sides and top.....Found the water pump was leaking out the main seal. Took the water pump off to the repairer and took the radiator to another repairer. In the mean time, lined the engine bay with polythene sheets and flushed the engine out into a large tub under the engine......looking like surgery....but nothing got wet which was a bonus. Smoothed out the bypass pipe to try and get the best fit as possible. Got a call and the water pump was ready already.....very quick service. Now to start putting things back and now waiting for the radiator to turn up. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 10 Author Share Posted May 10 So much get in the way doesn't it ! Finally got the radiator back and when mounting it realised I'd measured the bottom outlet distance incorrectly and it was hitting the engine mount. Back to the radiator guy and he did it in a few days for me. Got it back home and fitted nicely in place. ( should have measured ten time in the first place ! ). We also picked up the rebuilt water pump and installed it. Moment of truth........water pump was leaking at the top Pulled the water pump off again and remade a gasket and resealed the top plate back on again. Let it set for a good week and remounted. Connected all the hoses and prayed for no leaks. All good at the top but the radiator was dripping at the bottom. Found out it was just the drain tap wasn't tightened enough. Fixed that problem and finally no leaks. Got the car started again and brought up to temperature and rechecked everything.......finally all good. Put the bonnet and sides back on ( everyone knows this isn't an easy job ) and I've found one side is out of alignment. Thats the next job, remove all the front cowl bolts, V supports and start the alignment process from scratch. I thought we had it until I shut the bonnet and found one side didn't have a gap between the bonnet side and the cowl..... So during all this my wife had an operation on her hand and I had work done on my knee.......the car might outlive me !!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted May 11 Share Posted May 11 So near yet so far. Keep at it Ian, you are nearly there now. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 16 Author Share Posted May 16 Thanks John, always something isn't there. Well...spend 4 hours yesterday and located two bolts in the lower part of the cowl that attaches to the front mud guards. Then adjusted the "V" rods to bring the top of the cowl into place. Once aligned, pushed down on the front of the cowl near the crank hole cover. Checked all gaps and inserted all 4 bolts on each side of the lower part of the cowl....checked again and all looks good. Locked the nuts down on the "V" rods and checked again. Tightened one side up and rechecked, then tightened the other side up. Happy with the gaps so took it for a run around the court. Engine is still missing and pinging....just can't seem to get this sorted but will keep at it. Still waiting on the horn trumpet that had to be redone. Once I get the engine and horn sorted then we'll book in the roadworthy ! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted May 17 Share Posted May 17 It’s just beautiful. It’s a credit to you Ian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 (edited) 22 hours ago, Mattml430 said: It’s just beautiful. It’s a credit to you Ian I'll go so far as to call it "stunning". What's with the New York Plates? Do they give you license to drive on the wrong side of the road? Edited May 18 by nat . (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted May 18 Share Posted May 18 On 5/16/2024 at 9:34 PM, Mattml430 said: It’s just beautiful. It’s a credit to you Ian Amen, you' ve got all the right details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 Thanks Guys, Here's the storey of the number plates ( and I'm still crying !!!! ) 20 odd years ago when I bought the car for $3,000 the guy who sold it offered me the original 4 digit number plates and he wanted $3,000 for those. Well I just didn't have that spare money at the time ( just bought a business, new car and had 3 kids ! ) Two months ago a set of original 4 digit number plates No 7799 ( mine was 7423 ) sold at auction for .........wait for it.........$318,000 Yep, I still cry myself to sleep every night ! So I did the next best thing and bought an original set of New York 1934 Number Plates and had them restored by a guy in Tasmania. I can't drive on the streets with them when I get it registered ( or I might try ) so I'll probably have it on club plates. I do own a set of personalised plates.........DODG34 So that's my tale of woe 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nat Posted May 20 Share Posted May 20 41 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said: Two months ago a set of original 4 digit number plates No 7799 ( mine was 7423 ) sold at auction for .........wait for it.........$318,000 Holy ....! I'll keep an eye out for those. Many times more than you could sell your beautiful car for? Proof positive that some have more money than brains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 20 Author Share Posted May 20 They are all saying its better than having your money in the bank ! You don't want to know how much three and two digit plates go for !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted Monday at 10:50 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 10:50 PM Hey all, Received the second horn trumpet back as I had to get it redone ( a bubble formed underneath it ). Sent back and been completely redone so mounted that on the car. Next job was I had to remove the hubcaps so the roadworthy guy could take a photo of the car with the wheels off ( I think physically inspecting the brakes would have cost too much in time so with the wheels off it looks as though he has done it....bit of a loop hole....stupid Victoria regulations ). The last hubcap put up a fight and the pinch tool I used slipped !.....disaster :(....I've already found a guy who can repair it. Next was to align the head lights....started off looking like Marty Feldman's eyes.....off in different directions.....but with the help of a laser level and cardboard sheets set at 25 feet we got a good pattern. So with everything done as best as I could I headed off the get the roadworthy.......................she passed ! This Thursday I'm off to VicRoads to get my Club Plates ( yes I do have an original bill of sale just in case ) So the to do list is : Recheck the brakes ( a bit soft ) Retune the Engine Check the Generator as not charging enough ( its been converted to 12v ) Wheel alignment Flush radiator and put in coolant Never ending little jobs ! 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted yesterday at 04:13 PM Share Posted yesterday at 04:13 PM Very nice. I have to ask about that shifter. And the knob on the steering column. It's been a joy watching your progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted yesterday at 04:56 PM Share Posted yesterday at 04:56 PM (edited) 48 minutes ago, JACK M said: Very nice. I have to ask about that shifter. And the knob on the steering column. It's been a joy watching your progress. The shifter is the "knob on the steering column". Not really on the column. It is on the other side of the column. The other lower knob is a quick release knob for the parking brake handle. Edited yesterday at 05:01 PM by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted yesterday at 07:00 PM Share Posted yesterday at 07:00 PM Thanks John, it all makes sense now. Forgot that it is RHD. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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