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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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You got it !!!...I don't know much about the Hunt brand of things. I'll put some pads in the housing just to protect the chrome incase I want to remove it.

The knob that came with it was cracked and broken so I have a guy turn up a new one along with one for the gear shift so they should be matching in colour.

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Did some light checks. Found a tail light wasn't working...traced it back to a secondary earth I ran wasn't earthing properly. A bit of Dremel action fixed that.

The other side tail light was really dull and not working properly. Found I had the globe upside down....didn't even know that could happen.

Also with the headlights I found the parkers were really dull. Found that the LED parkers I thought were bright were really bad. replaced them with an older style push in globe and seems to work well now. Well thats the lights all sorted.

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On 8/25/2022 at 6:52 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Towards the cowl otherwise the wheel wouldn't have fitted as you suggested. We tried that first and fitted perfectly.

Rock solid now. Its actually surprising how sturdy they are once all tightened up.

Next moving onto the horns. I have an original pair of restored New York 1934 Number Plates I'll pop on the car.

I designed a bracket to hold the number plates so hopefully these should all go together.

Since you are deep into the side mounts; is there a long brace, inside the car, that goes from the "A" pillar, up to the cowl to support the mounts? I've seen photos of one for a convertible, but wasn't sure if the sedan needed it.  You are doing a beautiful job!!!!!!!

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Yes there is. It is rivited to the cowl and to the A Pillar. One end has a thread to screw the top supports to, so the hole in the body must align to the holes to screws these fitting to otherwise it won't all go together.

I tried to see if I had a shot of the bracket but the closest one I have is the second photo where you can just see the support behind the wiring loom and has a small speaker attached to it.

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54 minutes ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Fitted the handbrake boot and connected up the handbrake extension. Attached the new knob I had made at the same time when I got a new one for the gearshift made.

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Mmmmm....I would have thought that the handle with the white knob would have been flipped over in order to keep the knob away from the seat.

 

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Tackled both Drivers and Passenger front doors. Got the anti-rattle rollers in, the door cards on, door handles and window winders and garnish molds.

This was a big step forward. I'll tap the Bailey Channel out a bit to loosen up the window frame when wound up once I've finished.

I took the covers off the back seat and for the first time two of us sat in there and just looked around.

 

Cheers

Ian

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I did do the horns the other day. Had to clean the pain off the threads and set them up in the correct direction. Also spun the grills so they matched the same direction.

At the same time I grabbed my restored set of New York 1934 Number Plates. Bolted the bracket I made to the bumper bar bolts both front and rear.

 

Cheers

Ian

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On 9/4/2022 at 3:55 PM, Ian_Greenlaw said:

Got some colour on the gear shift boot to get rid of the brown stain. Unfortunately its sitting up about 1" from the floor. I guess I'll have to cut it to fit. I thought it would just fit but it looks like the stem going into the gear box is too high......bugger !

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I went through the same issue with the gearshift boot & probably drove Burnbaum nuts after swapping the boot 3 times. Since I put the 37 Chrysler overdrive in the car, the correct 34, shallow bump boot was off the floor the same amount as yours. It matched the 4-holes in the floor board, where the 36-37 bump was taller but only has 3 holes. Fortunately the 3-hole boot just barely covers the 4 holes on the new floor mat, but fits perfect after carefully grinding out the shift rod hole. Just need to get the oval-head screws to penetrate the floor mat backing & screw into the floor board plate.

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5 minutes ago, jiminyfixit said:

I went through the same issue with the gearshift boot & probably drove Burnbaum nuts after swapping the boot 3 times. Since I put the 37 Chrysler overdrive in the car, the correct 34, shallow bump boot was off the floor the same amount as yours. It matched the 4-holes in the floor board, where the 36-37 bump was taller but only has 3 holes. Fortunately the 3-hole boot just barely covers the 4 holes on the new floor mat, but fits perfect after carefully grinding out the shift rod hole. Just need to get the oval-head screws to penetrate the floor mat backing & screw into the floor board plate.

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Try Restoration Specialties for the screws.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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So here's a question for you which I'm not sure about. The front seat lower cushion has what looks like 2 hooks that clip into the bottom of the seat frame. I didn't want to force anything so does the back of the cushion go in first then the clips lock into place or do you put the front in first with the two hooks and then the back pushes down against the upholstered seat back ?

 

Cheers

Ian

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1 hour ago, Ian_Greenlaw said:

So here's a question for you which I'm not sure about. The front seat lower cushion has what looks like 2 hooks that clip into the bottom of the seat frame. I didn't want to force anything so does the back of the cushion go in first then the clips lock into place or do you put the front in first with the two hooks and then the back pushes down against the upholstered seat back ?

 

Cheers

Ian

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Others may have different opinions on what to do, but I believe this is the procedure....Try to push the rear part of the cushion back as far as possible without bending the frame and then drop the front tabs down behind the lip of the seat frame.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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I agree with Keiser.  Keeping in mind that my 34 Plymouth sedan (same front seat assembly) has mohair upholstery which may have less resistance than the material you have, I angle the rear of the cushion at about 30 degrees, with the front of the cushion up and, as Keiser says, try to push the rear of the seat cushion as far in under the back cushion as you can.  You should then be able to drop the front of the cushion so that those tabs are either behind the frame of the seat or are close enough that a good shove towards the rear will allow the tabs to pop in.

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Coloured up the Gear Shift Boot. Gently cut a hole in the top as I figured the rubber cover at the bottom of the gear lever will compensate for it. Four hours later we got it finished as well as we could....used a bit of black felt at the back to try and finish it off. Also fitted the rear vision mirror.

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Went to do the windscreen wipers today. I put some dowels tapes to the shaft of the motors to see the arc and where the radius is. Found that the wiper arms I wanted to use were too short. Lucky I had another set with extendable arms. I didn't really like the locking bolt sticking out of them so I had two exact size metal threads with a round head. Only issue was the thread was different. I tapped a new thread and seems to work of. I had to make a shim so the shaft fitted more snugly in place. I also used a spacer on one side and then once fitted extended the arms to get maximum coverage. Another one off the list !

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A number of years ago I contacted a guy who may have had reproduction running board trim mouldings. This turned out to be a dead end until a few weeks ago when his name popped up. I messaged him and he got back to me and said that what he did have he gave to his brother. Long story short, I contacted the brother who invited me up to Shepparton to look at his car ( 34 Chrysler 4 door tourer...I think this is correct ) and he gave me two of the trim pieces I was after. The generousity of fellow owners is one thing I will never forget. AS you can see in the photos, my original one....and I only have a few bits left were not in good condition. The reporduction ones are made in stainless steels with the correct profile to fit the 34 running boards. My only problem was my running boards are new and the bottom edge is slightly bigger than the trim. So with blocks on the floor and a board between them we used a cordless grinder and gently sliced a thin layer off at 300mm at a time. I used the offcut of the new trim piece ( as I had to cut them to the correct length ) as a guide and a test as we went along. Cutting running board rubber with an angle grinder was fun with hot melting rubber and smoke but once cut and rubbed over with a cloth it came up pretty smooth. Once completed I notched in the ends around the running board and after a trial fit used Sikaflex 227 to hold in place ( it was a fairly tight fit anyway ) and gently clamped every 300mm and let sit for two days. One side completed !!!!

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More work done. Needed a breather so I sat down and gave the RAM a bit of attention. Polishing cream on my dremel pad and it came up a treat. Also couldn't figure out for the life of me why the bonnet wasn't locking down. Found that the base plate was turned around. Corrected that ( after losing the spring washer in the chassis three times ! ) and now locks down.

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Hey all,

On the home stretch. Finished the Drivers Side ( right hand side ) running board trim molding. Got all the hubcaps on, cleaned the roof, adjusted the back hood hold downs as they were not locking very well in place.....sitting a lot better now. Cleaned all the windows. Have to do a few fixes that the upholsterer stuffed up. My painter came over the other day and did a heap of touchups....only very small chips here and there but sometimes you wonder where and how they happen. Next I'll move onto getting the engine running.

 

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks Guys,

I must admit, I do like the look of the front of the 34's which is probably why I was drawn to it in the first place.( sorry about the polishing cloths ! )

Cleaned the grill for the first time since she's been painted. Cleaned off heaps of glue the upholsterer left so I'm happier with the interior. Fixed a few bits and pieces.

Basically the car is finished so now I'll concentrate on the alignment and getting the engine running. I drained the gearbox so that pesky leak has stopped....hopefully the thicker oil will alleviate that issue. Engine is full of oil. New fuel pump gasket and filter screen fitted.....cleaned the spark plugs too so I'm getting ready to start her up.

I still should have bought the original 4 digit number plates....20 years ago he wanted $3,000 and we just didn't have the money.

They are now worth $50,000 to $60,000.....ho hum

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