'41 cadillac or 40 Buick

[Guest andynjoy99]

I am looking at purchasing either a '41 series 61 4 door Cadillac fastback or a '40 Buick century to fix up with my girls. The two I am looking at are both in about the same condition. Complete but need restoring Both probably need the same amount of work. I am wondering which one would have the potential to be worth the most and be able to sell faster if it ever came down to it. Any input would be great. i am getting conflicting sales numbers from Nada guides which has the buick more valuable and past sales numbers which show the cadillac much more valuable. Thanks again for your input Andy

[jscheib]

Assuming the Buick is also a 4 door sedan, and I suspect you would have the same amount of money and time into both cars, revemue from future sale would be a about the same, in my opinion. In any case, you will probably get other responses as well, but I think most opinions will be that this would more likely be at cost greater than return. Do it for the family time and enjoy both the work and driving the car.

John

[auburnseeker]

I would think that the Cadillac would be the easiest sell when done. The 41 seems to be one of the most desirable years. Parts availability I think is about the same. The Cadillac Motor has bearing inserts and the Buick has Babbitted bearings so the Buick motor is more expensive to do. There may be a little bit more in the way of reproduction parts for the Cadillac than the Buick but you will want to make sure whichever one you buy is as complete as possible as many parts especially trim parts are only available used or NOS.

If you could post pictures of both cars that may help, as other members I'm sure will beable to point out bonuses and weaknesses of each project.

Good luck with your hunt.

[Guest BJM]

I agree with John on this one because of the models you describe. Both would find about the same amount of money in uncompleted condition. I would hesitate getting into a project with your thinking. Projects are different today then they were 25-30 years ago. EVERYTHING is expensive and you can not stop half way through and sell and expect to make any more then what you are paying for the cars now. This comes from actual experience. You pay a $1000 for a car, put $5000 into it and it doesn't drastically change the appearance of the car, then you want to sell? Car is probably worth $1500 at that point. One is the reason I have described and 2. if you do something like an engine rebuild or such, then potential buyers still want to re-rebuild the motor because they want to know for sure it was done right.

It's the old "I was told the engine was rebuilt" saga.

1940 Buick Century's are beautiful cars with Buick's largest straight eight. If it was a Buick Special or a Super, then the Cadillac is an easy choice. The 1941 Cadillac 61 was supposed to be the 1941 LaSalle so it is appointed to the lowest trim level, which is still nice. Buicks have a larger following then Cadillac, but Cadillacs have a slightly higher "mystique". Does the 1941 Cadillac have 1st year Hydramatic? If so that's a + for the Cadillac because it creates a less stressful driving experience for most.

I have owned 2 1941 Cadillacs and they are great cars with fantastic styling but BOTH cars would be worth about the same in unfinished condition because the Buick is a Century.

[Guest andynjoy99]

Here are a couple of picture. First the Buick. The gentelmen tells me it is all complete with trim except no back seat. Only surface rust. He has fixed the floorboard areas the were bad. Body is straight, need upholstery. Starts up but ought to be gone through, needs brakes. Cadillac Does not currently run needs starter, distributor, ought to be gone through but motor turns freely. All complete trim and seats etc. Has started to sand down for paint. Everything is taken apart and out including dash etc but has everything in the garage. I can pick either one of these cars up for $2,200-$2,500. I was thinking that this is a good price for either one. Hope this helps. I am new to the classic car world so this will be a learning project. I appreciate any more feed back that you guys can think of.

[Guest BJM]

I like both. Try to push the price lower. Projects are cheap right now. Cash certainly talks. I've got 7 project vehicles in similar shape, similar stories and the most I paid for any of them is $1500. Actually, you have a tough choice, both cars are fantastic fun projects and it might come down to which one "speaks" to you more.

[Guest andynjoy99]

Yeah it is a hard decision. I have always liked Cadillac's but the Buick body style with those suicide doors is pretty darn Kool. Old school gangster style. If I cant get the prices down any is $2,200-$2,500 still a fair deal?

[Guest bkazmer]

Lots of good comments so far. The Century (and the Packard 160) are the premier performance models of the time. It will be effortless to be "upside down" in either car - price the plating work for bumpers and grille. Both are fine cars of their time. If it matters, neither is Classic Car Club of America eligible, so that's even.

The best advice is a question -which one turns your crank?

[auburnseeker]

What is your level of ability in regard to paint, Body, Mechanics, etc? Both cars need work in all areas and finding people to do work you can't perform may be harder than finding missing pieces.

[Guest andynjoy99]

I personally have some experience with bodywork and paint, but I have a friend that owns a paint shop so I may be able to trade him out some of the cost as I am a general contractor. I've called around and have gotten ball park estimates for the upholstery in the neighborhood of $3,000. I have a friend that know quite a bit in regards to Mechanics. So he will show me some stuff but if it means rebuilding or replacing an engine or trans. then it would be off to a shop for that. So i guess long story short, I am a novice with the ability and desire to learn with the hopeful help of some friends. Worst case it's off to the shop. I could see it quickly adding up at a shop. but I have seen some of these go for 15-20K so can think i'd lose that much but again I'm not sure. that's why I value your guys help. thanks

[The Continental]

I'd go with the Cadillac. Looks to already have some of the work done and it's a fastback. I'm a Buick Century fan, but the extra doors and humpback would have me leaning towards the Cadillac.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

I would be more enthused about a running vehicle first time around. You can move it around a lot easier even if it does need a rebuild, and it may not. Assume the Caddy will, or there is some issue current owner cannot figure out. Most times the seller will tell you the car is not running for some minor issue, but you really have no way of knowing. "All you need to do is reinstall the carb and dist" really? Why then, haven't you done that.

Both nice representatives of the era, I personally would lean to the Buick's slightly more "30s" look.

That said, they both seem decent enough for the price, and it sounds like you have done some research and are going into this knowing you will need to spend a bit of money and time. Another huge plus - these are nice cars but not so nice you are doing the car and yourself a disservice by not having a professional restoration done. You can DIY a lot, especially if you are patient.

Good luck!

[Restorer32]

Take the one with the least rust. Rust repair is geometrically more time consuming and therefore much more expensive than mechanical work. If faced with a choice between a rusty car that runs and a solid car with a frozen engine, no brakes and a bad trans, take the one needing the least metal work every time. Inscribe these words on your heart in letters of fire!

[Guest andynjoy99]

Any thoughts on the final product? It is such a hard decision for me. If I like both the same and need they same amount of work, am I right in deciding which one based on resale value and popularity and whichever one is cheapest? because I have a feeling that the Buick I can get for a couple hundred bucks cheaper. But the issue for me remains that I would not have a problem spending the extra money now for the Cadillac if I will stand to bring a better resale price if need be. Seems like we have both Buick and cadillac fans out there. Any one care to try to sell me on either one? Thanks, I don't mean to be indecisive, but the end result is this will be a family financial decision so I want to make the best possible one I can. I have no problem seeking wise council form the guys that really know their stuff. Thanks

[Guest bkazmer]

Any thoughts on the final product? It is such a hard decision for me. If I like both the same and need they same amount of work, am I right in deciding which one based on resale value and popularity and whichever one is cheapest? because I have a feeling that the Buick I can get for a couple hundred bucks cheaper. But the issue for me remains that I would not have a problem spending the extra money now for the Cadillac if I will stand to bring a better resale price if need be. Seems like we have both Buick and cadillac fans out there. Any one care to try to sell me on either one? Thanks, I don't mean to be indecisive, but the end result is this will be a family financial decision so I want to make the best possible one I can. I have no problem seeking wise council form the guys that really know their stuff. Thanks

If you are doing this for resale, stop now. I don't mean to be harsh, but it's a hobby and do it because you like it. You have a good chance of being upside down on either car. If you like the car it's not going to be as a big concern. I like them both! But I also know that immediate prewar sedans have a pretty limited market ceiling. I think the 15 -20 k$ range you said is about right, and that's because they are preferred models/marques

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Agree on the one with the least rust, above all else including running vs. not. Personally, chrome would be my second concern. To that end, the Caddy likely has a lot more, if it is decent or good, that is great if you are not building a show car. Otherwise, that can get pricey and you cannot do it yourself.

If finances are a concern, a better bet (I am doing this now) may be to seek out an older restoration or clean enough original to enjoy as is. There is always stuff to do, it will be cheaper in the long run and likely a better way to recoup your investment should you ever want to get out of it. I always feel kind of funny giving that advice because the DIY restoration to me, is a big part of the hobby, but it is a financial fact. I have not really dealt with a "project car" in some time, due largely to the fact that it is cheaper to buy a restored car... Buy one of these if you have a burning desire to work on it, which is great, but expect it to cost at least what a restored comparable car will cost you.

Good luck either way!

[Guest andynjoy99]

Not really doing for the resale, but just wanted to know if I had to get out of it for what ever reason which would be the most valuable. Which one would you be leaning towards if you were in my shoes? Goes for everyone out there that would care to help me choose:)

[Mark Huston]

Which one would I choose? Depends on the many factors that have been previously pointed out; however, for me the key is 1) missing parts; 2) condition. As mentioned by Restorer322, I would pick the one with the least amount</SPAN></SPAN> of rust. In post #5 you mentioned the Buick is missing the back seat. Unless the Cadillac had a lot of other problems the fact that the Buick is missing a back seat would disqualify it from consideration. </SPAN>

I have a collector car that is missing the original back seat and I have spent 10 years looking for one without success. Granted my car is a 1929 Studebaker and they are a bit harder to find parts for. Still, hunting for a missing part can be a time consuming chore that can kill your enthusiasm for the project. Beware of rust and missing parts. Look over both cars (and all of the parts) carefully before making an informed decision. </SPAN>

</SPAN>

[Guest andynjoy99]

Good thoughts, I wonder how hard it would be to find a seat? Wonder if there are any other models or years that the might fit? I'll have to research that. Thx

[Guest andynjoy99]

I am not thinking of taking it back to all original if that matters

[Matt Harwood]

I hope I have some useful perspective here, as I own a '41 Century sedanette, and just purchased a '41 Cadillac 60 Special, and there's a 1940 Century convertible sedan in the showroom that I've driven extensively.

One, I'm flat-out ASTOUNDED by what a fantastic road car the '41 Cadillac is. Mine has Hydramatic, and while I was one of those guys who eschewed the slushbox, it's anything but! Shifts are crisp, and with it comes a 3.36 rear gear, so it cruises at 65 MPH effortlessly. I mean, this car is FAST, smooth, easy to drive, and, well, pretty much everything you'd expect from a Cadillac. For all intents and purposes, it's a modern car. I'm not surprised why they're the most popular car on CCCA Caravans. I'm simply blown away by how well the thing works.

However, I'm a Buick guy, and the 1940 Century that just showed up in the showroom last week has spent about 150 miles with me behind the wheel. It, too, is quite fleet of foot (tire?) and a pleasure to drive. It's not as smooth or effortless as the Cadillac, but it does have a more performance-oriented feel that's hard to quantify. The Cadillac is a true luxury car, but the Buick seems to have a bit of an edge. The engine is a bit louder (but in a good way!), and with the manual transmission, it's more involved. Handling and braking are a wash (I bet many of the same parts are used on the two cars). I like the sound of the straight-8, and the Buick's mechanical lifters versus the Cadillac's hydraulic ones. I will also note that this particular Century appears to have the high-speed 3.60 gears and cruises at 60-65 MPH pretty well, although it's quite a bit busier than the Cadillac, which you can't even hear running at highway speeds.

If I were in your position, I'd buy the Cadillac. The restoration costs will be about the same, but the Cadillac is arguably a superior car in every way. The Century has a hot-rod reputation, but as a 4-door sedan, it's just kind of blending in with other 1940s cars. The fastback Cadillac has some style, and as I said, the performance has really impressed me in a big way (at least with the Hydramatic--I bet with a manual transmission, it would be a wash as far as performance and "road feel"). Ultimately, the Cadillac will also be worth more than the Buick, although it is not, as others have pointed out, a Full Classic.

You can't go wrong with either one, but if the Cad has a Hydramatic, I think you'll find it easier and more pleasurable to drive in modern traffic, and giving up no performance to the Century, all wrapped in a more dramatic, modern body.

Hope this helps. Feel free to drop me a line if you'd like more color commentary.

[auburnseeker]

As an introductory car to the hobby I would go with what some of the others mentioned in an older restoration that is needing a bit or an all original car that doesn't need everything to start with. With either one at this point you will need at minimum a full brake job, fluid dump and replacement, new tires, Probably wiring attention, Cooling system and fuel system replacement, new exhaust sytem etc. just to get either drivable. That's if the tranny is OK in each and the suspension (kingpins, ball joints, Shocks, etc are all fine. That right there is going to set you back probably 3000.00 if you do the work yourself. If the Caddy needs the motor rebuilt I'm thinking you would spend close to 5000 on that if you pulled and installed it yourself. The Buick with rebabbitting will be even more. If you are going to have 5000 on the low end to have a roadworthy car that still needs paint Chrome and Upholstery maybe it would be better to find the older restoration or Original roadworthy cars to tinker with that have better paint/chrome/interior first time around so you don't get overwhelmed to begin with. I have seen the same type of cars much nicer for say 7500 or so. Nothing worse to sell than a disassembled project car as you can see with the guys selling these two.

I have also learned to never count on a friend for work on your car in the future. I know there are exceptions out there but from personal experience, I have been burnt more than once that way. They just never seem to beable to get around to your project as they are usually doing it on the cheap and other better paying jobs always take presidence.

You may be surprised how hard it is to get an old car worked on. Many newer non restoration shops won't touch them. Try getting an alignment on an old car. Even a newer car in the 1960's. The crafstmen that worked on them years ago all retired or passed on along with there vast knowledge.

Definately not trying to discourage you from old cars. I just hope we can steer you to a first project that will ignite your passion for old cars not extinguish the flame.

[Guest BJM]

I hope I have some useful perspective here, as I own a '41 Century sedanette, and just purchased a '41 Cadillac 60 Special, and there's a 1940 Century convertible sedan in the showroom that I've driven extensively.

Matt's in the old car sales (retail side) business so he should have good perspective. I would say, for resale, it would be even. Apples to apples, both cars finished to the same level (you originally stated what they might bring in a partial finish stage) I think they would be within $1000 of each other. Each have different markets. If I had the Buick and had poured $$ into it, then changed my mind, I would market it to the Buick Club members, maybe go Hemmings Motor News in print and ebay with reserve. Cadillacs would best be marketed on the Cadillac LaSalle forum and in their club magazine.

But in the end the demand for one is not going to push one over the other.

[Rusty_OToole]

All else being equal I would say buy the Cadillac even if it is a few bucks more. Do not worry about what you can sell them for, either one will be a bottomless sink hole of money. The only way you could show a profit would be if you bought the car and restored it perfectly. Then you would still be in the hole, but with average luck, in 10 or 20 years prices go up to where you can make some money.

If you do not finish the car, the value will be about what you paid for it if you do not mess it up too much. If you cheap out, the car will be worth no where near as much. You would be surprised how picky people can be for a $20000 car.

Old Cars Price Guide says in #5 Restorable condition $3520 for the Buick, $4560 for the Cadillac, $4800 if it is the deluxe.

In #2 Fine Condition $20,510 for the Buick Century sedan, $26600 for the Caddy fastback sedan, $28000 if it is a deluxe.

[Guest andynjoy99]

Old Cars Price Guide says in #5 Restorable condition $3520 for the Buick, $4560 for the Cadillac, $4800 if it is the deluxe.

In #2 Fine Condition $20,510 for the Buick Century sedan, $26600 for the Caddy fastback sedan, $28000 if it is a deluxe.

So would these 2 fall under the #5 Restorable condition? And so that I am on the same page. when restoring these would it be more valuable to take back to as much original as possible or with some modifications like upgraded engines/ trans, brakes etc. I know there is a market for customs and original but not really sure what brings the best value. I want to make sure that which ever one I get tomorrow I start off on the right foot with the correct mindset. Thanks

[Matt Harwood]

The correct mindset on a car like this, sadly, is probably to forget about values and getting your money back later and just focus on enjoying the car. I prefer to think of the old car hobby as a vacation--you don't go to Disneyland and try to figure out how to sell your pictures for a profit, do you? No, you spend your money, you have a great time, you build memories, and you have fun with your family. THAT is the essence of the old car hobby, not money and auctions and profits (and I do this for a living!).

Neither of these cars will ever be worth more than about $20,000 no matter what you do to them, stock or custom. I would argue as a person who watches the market constantly that they will be more valuable restored to stock condition, but it's all relative. Customs are very hard to sell because you not only have to find another guy with the exact same tastes as you, but you'll need to find someone who trusts your workmanship and at under $20,000, doesn't feel like building his own. Home-built customs, in my experience, are virtually impossible to sell, no matter how nice they are, and a 4-door sedan with generic parts thrown at it will be an anchor.

And on a personal note, I'm REALLY tired of going to shows and cruise-ins and seeing old 4-door sedans with crusty Chevy 350s in them, some kind of amateurish paint job, and seats ripped out of a late-model and bolted in place. I'd encourage you to experience the fun that an original car can bring. A hot rod will drive like a modern car, but the whole point (to me, anyway) is to have a car that DOESN'T drive like everything else on the road. And as I said up above, both cars are quite capable in original condition so don't think that you must have a crate motor to be able to drive them, because it just isn't true. I show up with one of the original cars out of our inventory, or either of my Cadillacs, and people crowd around to see them, completely ignoring the hot rods around them. Everyone has already been there, done that, and today, it's the original cars that are the anomalies, not the customs (which aren't really all that custom anyway when you think about it--some guy just bolted on parts from a catalog).

Anyway, you're going to be underwater before you spray a drop of paint on either of those cars, so thinking of it as an investment is probably a mistake. That's whey there are several folks up there recommending that you spend a little more and get a complete, running, driving car to enjoy immediately--it's ALWAYS cheaper to go that route, I don't care how handy you are in the garage.

Hope this helps!

[Steve_Mack_CT]

I would rate these as #5, with the additional comment that the market is a bit soft in general, and more so for projects as has been pointed out. So while in total agreement with Rusty's (as usual) excellent feedback, I would note that your probably right around the current value for these two cars.

That said, regarding your comments about modified vs. restored; note that the modified market will be vastly different. One route provides a common goal, with value guides (each sale is individual, but at least you have just that - a guide with authentic cars), the other, you need to find just the right buyer who thinks you "hit it out of the park" with your mods. It is tougher to put a market value on modified cars because each one represents the builder's individual taste, budget, and skill level. Some are nice, many are junk, I would think the value at the end of the day for a modified car hinges much more on the quality of the job than the make or model.

Someone seeking a stock prewar car whether it is a driver level or top notch high point car is not likely cross shopping at modified cars. I think the same is also true for someone who really wants a modified car. You may get other opinions here but I believe they are different hobbies, different attitudes towards cars, etc. I would determine the overall route you want to take before picking the car.

If you are unsure what route you want to take you may want to consider that first. If you decide to modify, you may be better off with a partially done project that is already going in that direction, they are all over the place. You could possibly be off to a better start and a complete original car is not lost to another mod job. Ultimately your choice, but you did ask for advice...

Last, just to close the loop on your value question and which route will give you a better return I would say these two cars still appeal more to fans of stock antique cars than hot rodders.

Again, good luck the fun aspect is more important than any returns.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

I feel good some of my advice is simillar to Matt's - he's a pro after all...

Another way to say the same thing on a running car - I am a pretty handy guy, and have been through a restoration. Buying restored cars until I can afford to do another restoration if that makes any sense...

[Guest bkazmer]

The correct mindset on a car like this, sadly, is probably to forget about values and getting your money back later and just focus on enjoying the car. I prefer to think of the old car hobby as a vacation--you don't go to Disneyland and try to figure out how to sell your pictures for a profit, do you? No, you spend your money, you have a great time, you build memories, and you have fun with your family. THAT is the essence of the old car hobby, not money and auctions and profits (and I do this for a living!).

Neither of these cars will ever be worth more than about $20,000 no matter what you do to them, stock or custom. I would argue as a person who watches the market constantly that they will be more valuable restored to stock condition, but it's all relative. Customs are very hard to sell because you not only have to find another guy with the exact same tastes as you, but you'll need to find someone who trusts your workmanship and at under $20,000, doesn't feel like building his own. Home-built customs, in my experience, are virtually impossible to sell, no matter how nice they are, and a 4-door sedan with generic parts thrown at it will be an anchor.

And on a personal note, I'm REALLY tired of going to shows and cruise-ins and seeing old 4-door sedans with crusty Chevy 350s in them, some kind of amateurish paint job, and seats ripped out of a late-model and bolted in place. I'd encourage you to experience the fun that an original car can bring. A hot rod will drive like a modern car, but the whole point (to me, anyway) is to have a car that DOESN'T drive like everything else on the road. And as I said up above, both cars are quite capable in original condition so don't think that you must have a crate motor to be able to drive them, because it just isn't true. I show up with one of the original cars out of our inventory, or either of my Cadillacs, and people crowd around to see them, completely ignoring the hot rods around them. Everyone has already been there, done that, and today, it's the original cars that are the anomalies, not the customs (which aren't really all that custom anyway when you think about it--some guy just bolted on parts from a catalog).

Anyway, you're going to be underwater before you spray a drop of paint on either of those cars, so thinking of it as an investment is probably a mistake. That's whey there are several folks up there recommending that you spend a little more and get a complete, running, driving car to enjoy immediately--it's ALWAYS cheaper to go that route, I don't care how handy you are in the garage.

Hope this helps!

Really good advice - I'd pile on in one area - a rod doesn't drive as well as a new car. It uses an outdated engine and a collection of bolt-ons. I don't see anybody doing new OEM designs around pushrods and carburetors. It drives like an older chevy at best. The cool thing is that you designed and built it.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

One more comment - a $60K street rod likely cost the builder all of that to build. It is a myth that modifying is cheaper. That is why there are so many modifieds out there as Matt and bkazmer describe.

[Guest andynjoy99]

Thanks again for all the help. Any other comments or words of wisdom are appreciated. Sounds like

the majority favor the Caddy and that what I am leaning towards. I'll let you know the verdict tomorrow. Thanks again you guys have been very helpful

[rons49]

Andy, as a member of the Cadillac Lasalle Club I know which I would go for, but I thought I read that you need a rear seat for the 6109 model( sedan). Before you make a decision, call a few Caddy parts guys such as Cadillac Of the 40s in Las Vegas. Ed will probably have one or know who will. He specializes in 1941 Caddys. Ron

[Guest andynjoy99]

Thanks for that info

[Guest andynjoy99]

Any one got any links for pictures of what the correct interior of these cars should be? I am trying to shop out prices for interior work. Also any insight if I do say a diamond tuck on the interior. Not original but do these matters make a big difference? Thanks

[jscheib]

Another word of caution. The numbers above by Rusty are those based on restored to original.

If you "upgrade", you then have a product that appeals to you and you need to find someone that thinks similar to you and as compared to a restored (to original), which would be a known item to many potential customers.

John

[auburnseeker]

On an interior I wouldn't deviate from stock by much. Anything other than the stock configuration just looks wrong to me (and probably many others looking for a stock original car)and starts raising flags when I see it to look for other "short cuts" I would bet an interior runs you at minimum 3000 and very likely up to 5000 before you are said and done with Headliner Carpet etc. You will probably have to redo the interior moudings as well. If you go original with them Woodgraining isn't cheap. I have done it myself with Grain it's kit. (400.00 I think is there base kit) (they advertise here on this site under commercial advertisements.) It came out looking great on my car. Next you have that interior Chrome and Plastic to deal with. I doubt either is very nice but maybe you will get lucky and it will clean up. I priced a kit, uninstalled from Hampton Coach for a 1948 Chevy 2 door sedan and it was almost 5000 and I had to install it. I would imagine a cadillac would be more but it is correct patterns and fabric.

[Guest bkazmer]

Any one got any links for pictures of what the correct interior of these cars should be? I am trying to shop out prices for interior work. Also any insight if I do say a diamond tuck on the interior. Not original but do these matters make a big difference? Thanks

The sewing pattern of the original will not be complicated. Using anything other than wool broadcloth will drastically decrease the value as pointed out. A brand new polyblend interior is worth less than an imperfect original showing some wear.

[Restorer32]

Bottom line is even doing the majority of the work yourself you cannot possibly restore either of these cars to any decent condition for what they would be worth when done. You won't even be close. I'm not saying not to restore one or the other, it will be great fun and a challenge, just that you should forget about their ultimate value. You will be so upside done on either car that the calculations you are trying to do now will be relatively meaningless 10 years from now.

[bhambulldog]

The correct mindset on a car like this, sadly, is probably to forget about values and getting your money back later and just focus on enjoying the car. I prefer to think of the old car hobby as a vacation--you don't go to Disneyland and try to figure out how to sell your pictures for a profit, do you? No, you spend your money, you have a great time, you build memories, and you have fun with your family. THAT is the essence of the old car hobby, not money and auctions and profits (and I do this for a living!).

Neither of these cars will ever be worth more than about $20,000 no matter what you do to them, stock or custom. I would argue as a person who watches the market constantly that they will be more valuable restored to stock condition, but it's all relative. Customs are very hard to sell because you not only have to find another guy with the exact same tastes as you, but you'll need to find someone who trusts your workmanship and at under $20,000, doesn't feel like building his own. Home-built customs, in my experience, are virtually impossible to sell, no matter how nice they are, and a 4-door sedan with generic parts thrown at it will be an anchor.

And on a personal note, I'm REALLY tired of going to shows and cruise-ins and seeing old 4-door sedans with crusty Chevy 350s in them, some kind of amateurish paint job, and seats ripped out of a late-model and bolted in place. I'd encourage you to experience the fun that an original car can bring. A hot rod will drive like a modern car, but the whole point (to me, anyway) is to have a car that DOESN'T drive like everything else on the road. And as I said up above, both cars are quite capable in original condition so don't think that you must have a crate motor to be able to drive them, because it just isn't true. I show up with one of the original cars out of our inventory, or either of my Cadillacs, and people crowd around to see them, completely ignoring the hot rods around them. Everyone has already been there, done that, and today, it's the original cars that are the anomalies, not the customs (which aren't really all that custom anyway when you think about it--some guy just bolted on parts from a catalog).

Anyway, you're going to be underwater before you spray a drop of paint on either of those cars, so thinking of it as an investment is probably a mistake. That's whey there are several folks up there recommending that you spend a little more and get a complete, running, driving car to enjoy immediately--it's ALWAYS cheaper to go that route, I don't care how handy you are in the garage.

Hope this helps!

Matt said it all. And he said it right.

The only thing I can add is, I would go with the Buick!

[61polara]

I've found that many times it costs the same or not too much more to do it correctly. When looking at a car that has an incorrect interior, I'll deduct the full price to redo the interior from the value of a car in the same condition with a correct interior. In other words, I value an incorrect interior the same or less (depending on damage done, parts missing) than if the interior was a very worn original. Also, if you plan to upgrade, keep the parts you remove and keep modifications that are difficult to reverse to a minimum. This can help sell the car because the guy looking for an original car can change it back without having to look for all the parts you sold or tossed. He'll stil want to deduct from the value the cost to put it back.

Good luck on your decision.