buick5563 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Jim, the top side of your axle housing needs bondo and buffing. When I am judging chassis, I will be on my stomach rather than "one knee"" (no-no) and use a mirror...Oh, wait a sec, I'm helping with the parking not judging this year. Carry on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yes boss....bondo and buffing...wow, you guys are tough! And that is just to get through the parking lot? Yeow!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 5, 2012 Author Share Posted June 5, 2012 (edited) Ok, now that the torque tube has been detailed, painted, brakes on, and "faux gold cad" completed, it is now time to assemble the parts to the rear axle assembly / torque tube.I used brake lines from InLine Tube, stainless variety. Fit was 95%. Needed a little tweaking, but not bad at all. And man to they look good. I took the parking brake cable to task and bead blasted it, one half at a time in my cabinet. What a huge difference! Painted it with Valspar Aluminum Rust Protection paint. Looks like new! Really starting to shape up, I even bondo'd and buffed the upper portion of the axle, because it needed it! (NOT....ha ha ha Mike! )Next up- the underside of the car. Edited June 5, 2012 by 1957buickjim added before picture at end. (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 WOW. Nice and clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Another torque tube & axle assembly , a portrait in beauty and excellence.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karasmer Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I was debating a frame on restoration on my 29 Durant but decided against it. Took me two hours to get the body off and propped up so I can park the frame under the body thereby saving some space. After the first stage of scraping with a putty knife I had a huge pile of grime 10 pounds worth (I weighed it). Next step I will roll it ouside and wire wheel it with a 4 inch angle grinder,then??? rust encapsulating primer??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I dunno, Jim, I'm kind of fond of your photo number 8 of 8. Other than that you'd hauled it out of the car already, it represents a whole lot less work that I ought to be doing some day.KARASMER, neat bunch of stuff around your shop. That Buick Green lump looks decidedly side-valve, so I assume it's out of the Durant? Those nice wheels and shiny front axle indicate that someone did a partial restoration, so they could enjoy the car. Now you're finishing the job.Having an old car is a partnership among today's owner and everyone who owned it before him. That's a nice feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 Jim great photos. Although not previously promised or asked for, It is now time to reveal Buick Man's secret chemistry undercarriage attack plan.- Break out the Marvel Mystery Oil purchased in a 1-gallon size - A Beauty store supply sourced round palm sized small spray bottle with multiple adjustable tip- Green scour pads and a 3M scour sanding sponge with 2 different grits on the same sponge - A 3M dust mask with vent- An inexpensive full face shield such as used when at the grinding bench- Latex gloves- 3 Large bags of old cotton rags from paint storeProcedure: 1st - Load the Beauty salon spray bottle with Marvel Mystery Oil and spray any and all accessible areas of the entire undercarriage, floor pan, axle and frame.2nd - Take scour pads and start at the front or rear and work your way to the other end of the car rubbing down every surface area. Use the 3M sanding sponge block on the extra bad areas of the frame.3rd - Go back over all areas with the Marvel Mystery Oil filled spray bottle.4th - Have a cold one. Suggest a Shock Top Heffewiezen. Ice Cold.5th - Now wait 3 days6th - When you return all of the surface rust and embedded crap will be history. At this point take the rags and wipe everything down real good. Upon finishing the underside will look like it is painted and new.From here you can leave it as is. or go to the next step to prepare for painting:Go down and pressure wash the entire underside with hot soapy water, then with fresh rinse water. Then shop air blow dry everything immediately.Apply the product called " A Must For Rust" You will need 2 Gallons. Use your cleaned out Beauty Store spray bottle to apply. Do small areas at a time. Use new rags to wipe and clean after straying and dry off, then dry using shop air.You are now ready to paint.Good luck, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Karasmer - I like the way you are doing things, especially the way you have maximized the space, which is always at a premium on these things. As for your frame, I would definitely take the wire wheel to it out in the driveway, and even some sand paper if needed. Then use a rust encapuslating primer. I used two. Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, and Rustoleum's Rust Converter Rattle Can. Both will work well and leaves a nice surface for the paint you are about to apply to the frame / underbody.Rob - You are so right about the connection between the previous and the current owner's in the restoration process. It is about the continuity and partnership. Pretty deep insight there. As for Picture 8 of 8...It is nice to know where you were and where you are, through your own efforts.David...What can I say...I have been waiting for you to pipe up! You are always a beacon in the dark when it comes to this restoration stuff. I could only wish that you piped up a bit earlier..as you will see later in this post. However, the only improvement that I could make to your procedure is the 4th step...If I am going to have a Hefeweizen, It will either be Hacker-Schorr or Weinheinstephan...Sorry, I am a purist there with the bier!! So, as the story progressess, I am now onto the underside of the Buick beauty..starting with this...There was a little funny thing that happened (apparently a while ago), where Mr. Small Rodent decided to build a condo in my frame...He moved out, but left his bedding and such..Had to raze the building to continue the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Now the transformation from old to new (or at least close to what it might have been new)..I used Rustoleum Rust Converter on the whole underside of the chassis after the wire brush, wipe down with paint thinner, lacquer thinner process. Once the rust converter dried, I painted the exhaust system with Dupli-color Aluminum Engine Paint. Masked that off after it dried, then used Eastwood C2K Ceramic Chassis Black - Satin, to paint the frame rails. Here are the pictures for this part of the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karasmer Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 I was just on the Eastwood site, debating two 16 oz. aerosol cans or a gallon for the frame???hmm. Reading the reviews it sure looks like good stuff. This cleaning would have been near impossible without pulling the body off,and it's still very tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Karasmer, I purchased a 1 quart can of each (Rust Converter and 2K Chassis Black - Satin). That was plenty for the frame (and the underside of the car, drive train, inner sheet metal etc - at least for the rust converter) The Chassis Black is enhanced with ceramic material, so it is more robust for the undercarriage. I recommend both of them highly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share Posted June 6, 2012 Once the frame had dried and set up, I went about masking that to paint the underside of the car. I kind of opted for a semi-traditional method, and also looked at how the car came from the factory, to some extent. Knowing that I am going to drive it quote a bit when it is done, I opted for the traditional undercoating in the factory areas, and red oxide in those areas that originally did not get hit with the factory undercoating, but not the messy all over job that would have been done at the factory..you will see in the following pictures.I also took some advice from those that have been there before me, and installed an assistant electric fuel pump for those hard start / vapor lock / corn-o-hol fuel issues that it looks like may loom in the future. Much easier install now with all the stuff out, than afterwards. It is a Mr. Gasket auxilliary fuel pump, 4 - 6 psi. Ran the wiring along the driver's side frame, and installed a small toggle switch to run it under the dash.And while I had it all apart like that, why not paint the fuel tank as well. Used Duplicolor Flat Aluminum Ceramic High Heat Engine Paint. Dries to a nice dull silver finish, very similar to a zinc coating. Enjoy the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4 bufords Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 very nice jim,maybe if i ever get all better from the car falling,i can get back to my super,not going to pull out the drive line,just clean it up a bit.did wire brush the frame and painted it with por15.4 bufords from ct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shadetree77 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Looking good Jim! Man, this thread is really making me re-consider my frame OFF decision. That fuel pump should work good for you. I actually have the same exact one on my '52. The previous owner installed it in place of the mechanical pump and I haven't had time to get the original re-built and put back on. No problems out of it so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Jim:Breath taking. The workmanship and attention to detail is spell bounding. My laptop cover is starting to stick shut.I see you have the original fuel outlet bung in the fuel tank which is also part of the internal filter. Were you the guy on ebay that bought that OEM filter element about a year ago and are planning on using it in your tank now or have you simply soaked, steamed and cleaned out your old filter mesh screen and have just put it back into the tank? If so, make sure to use a proper neoprene gasket/washer sized for the fuel bung, as I am sure you are aware of.Great views on the undercarriage and yes also staying true to the red oxide color scheme of things.Yes being a purist is best and sometimes an adventurer as well. If you get the opportunity, try and find a Shock Top. It is spiked with natural Orange and Coriander. Simply delightful on a hot summer's day and made to slam or just sip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) Thanks Guys! Just trying to keep it on the straight and narrow, Buick-wise! David, I did not get that filter..I did not even see it on ebay..And for the Shock Top..I do like them, as well as Blue Moon..I am a big fan of Belgian Style Witbier...as a comparison, try Hooegaarden, which is from Belgium, or Celis White (US Microbrew) and let me know what you think of them. Those are two of my favorites, especially this time of year, when it is getting warmer.Robert, I am hoping that the fuel pump, which I am using as a booster pump, will provide the same wonderful results that you are getting for a long time. I thought and was informed that while you have the bottom cleared off and can get to it, why not put it in as a back-up. I have had 3 fuel pumps go bad since I have owned it, so why not have a little insurance. Well, more picture time! Now that everything is painted and pre-assembled, it is now time to start putting it back together. Here are some shots of the underside going back together, as well as the torque tube re-installation. Edited June 7, 2012 by 1957buickjim (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted June 7, 2012 Share Posted June 7, 2012 Jim, Simply Buickful my man! Nice work. I love following your thread. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share Posted June 7, 2012 Ok, here is the the finished product, ending the chapter IV of The ReMake of Old Bessie, The Underside. With everything cleaned, painted, installed and the car back on wheels, here is the finished product. Overall, the project to complete the underside took approximately 2 weeks, from May 14th through June 2nd. That included the remove and replacement of the torque ball seal, eliminating the transmission leakage through the prop shaft seal and rebuilding the rear brakes.It was a crazy two weeks, but all you skinned knuckle, home garage restorers, it can be done, and to a level that is worthy of your ride. It is about planning, and doing. Thanks for all your comments and remarks on this thread. I thoroughly enjoy our Buick Banter, for sure.Well, here it is all back together! Stay tuned for the published edition of this crazy man's journey through buick restorationville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Very nice! Now good luck keeping it clean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Very nice! Now good luck keeping it clean Especially after an upcoming 700 mile drive in less than a month.Looks kick-booty Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Hey, that's what quarter car washes are for! At least it will take another 55 years to get back to the way it started, and by that time, I don't care!!!Thanks guys! I owe a lot of what I did to your pioneering on your vehicles and your threads..truly insprirational to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 ..... and Jim I think we also need a couple photos of your sand blast cabinet and your compressor - all of which deserve some lime light as well don't you agree?BTW: Just for the record, the nuts and bolts in, on and around the rear end / torque tube appear to be new ? or re-plated ? or painted & clear coated? Please tell.Nice job Oh, and yes Hoe-Garden bier is good and has the coriander as well but if I just drink european biers all the time as opposed to U.S. made biers I will not get my U.S.D.A. approved toxic doses of dumped Chlorinates and industry wasted Fluorides from our U.S. water sources, .... and they would not like that since it has to go somewhere and it might as well be to us so they won't have to pay to have it hauled off to the toxic site and remediated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 David,Attached are pictures of my two helpers on this project. Mr. Ingersol-Rand has been a very helpful companion and work horse through this, as will as Mr. Jupiter Bead-Cabinet. Without the two of them, this project would have taken a much longer time, for sure!As for the bolts, some are new, some are replated, and some are bead-blasted and clear coated. I opted for new in those critical areas that would see, as I would figure, more stress, such as Panhard Bar and Shock Mounts. Those areas that I had replated the bolts were of lesser stress areas and mounting items for clamping etc. Where I did not have replated or could not obtain replacement bolts, I bead blasted the originals and clear coated them.I know it is not the extreme purist way, but then again, I am all about drving this car, and some additional safety in using new grade 8 bolts in critical areas are ok by me. So that's my story and I'm sticking to it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest shorty7 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Wow looks great Jim!! so what is the scoop with the electric fuel pump? Is this in addition to the mechanical and if so what make and model did you use? Might this be something I need to do with our 57 Special?ThanksRob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smartin Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 What CFM is the IR compressor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 (edited) Speaking of compressors, is there any hands-on experience here with smallish rotary air compressors? If I do finally purchase a compressor, I'd like one that won't destroy what's left of my hearing. Industrial-size rotary pumpers are becoming common and are rated much quieter than reciprocating piston compressors. Depending on your feedback, I may start a new thread on this. Edited June 10, 2012 by Rob McDonald (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Rob: I believe they make an easy chair compressor which is fully operational by remote from any sitting position and very easy on the ears as the compressor unit itself is usually located a safe and non-tempting distance from your living, T.V. or lounge area.As for compressors being loud, it is the oil-less type compressor that are very loud. Oiled compressors are very quiet. CFM output of a compressor with a True Rated HP electric motor usually is in the 3.5-4.5 cfm capacity output per 1 horsepower of electric motor input and turning it. Of course with this said, one would have to have a real electric motor such as a Baldor or the like which rates it's motors accurately. The compressor units you find at Sears and the big box stores have generally exaggerated H.P. and CFM ratings since the industry is self regulated resulting in outputs at least 1/3 less than is advertised.I acquired last fall, and rebuilt this past winter an old Wayne compressor which has a true 5 horsepower Baldor motor turning it. It is attached to a 60 gallon tank. Fills to 150 and turns on again at 130. Takes 45 seconds to fill back up to 150. This calculates out to a 21.5 cfm output. The motor requires a 60 amp outlet and fuse since a true 5 horsepower motor will draw at start around 60-70 amps for a split second and then run at FLA of 26 running amp draw. In comparison a true 2 horsepower motor will draw FLA of 26 amps at start and 13 amps running wired at 230 volts so a 30 amp outlet is required. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Proof of concept:Jim got his Senior award tonight AFTER driving his car from Troy Michigan.Look at that smile! You can't fake that smile.Well done buddy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957buickjim Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 I owe a lot of thanks to all my pals on the forum who helped me get to this point! Mike (Buick5563) and Willie (OldTank), you guys are the best! Thanks for pushing and helping me get to this level. It is proof of the fact that you can do this over time, in your driveway, still having a driveable vehicle (most of the time, anyway) and restore your car! And Mike and Willie really helped me weather the storm and calm the seas when I was totally frustrated and ready to just give it up.Yes, it does take work and time as well as a need for getting it right (Buick Man - that's where you are totally invaluable!) to make this happen. I appreciate all of you who have given me the boost to keep pushing on, and working to get it right. Caballero2, BhigDog, and JohnD1956, again your comments and assitance on the details and helping me figure out the problems when I was running into them really was tremendous.I would have never in a million years figured that I would get a Senior Gold Award at Nationals..for my driver. Drove it to Concord and now Old Bessie will be maiking the trip home with some new gold jewelry, which she absolutely deserves. Thank you to everybody who kept up with the posts and trevails of this thread.Jim.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caballero2 Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Buick people love driven cars in the point judging. Congratulations! Hope you and bro have a great summer with ol Bessy.Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Well done buddy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Perseverance paid off. Great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick man Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Great. Now, with this absolutely astonishing good news, which was a very pleasing cap to a great day, I just had to go and celebrate. So I broke down and purchased a nice cold pack of Hoegarden, built a fire on my patio pit last night and just dreamed about 57 Buicks.Jim - You are the ... MAN ! I move that for now on, all board members should officially refer to Jim as ... "The Man" :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Jim,Well done my friend. Cannot wait to meet you and the car in person. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rob McDonald Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Way to go, Old Bessie and friend! Wonderful climax to a generously shared story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4 bufords Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 jim,i was hopeing you would get something last night.i popped in when n clss was being called. congrats on your award jim and hope to see you in south bend.i forgot to give your towel back i used to lay across my kneewhen my brother and i stopped on the show field.take care of bessie,4 bufords from ct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Proof of concept:Jim got his Senior award tonight AFTER driving his car from Troy Michigan.Look at that smile! You can't fake that smile.Well done buddy!No one was more deserving of such an award! Great to meet you and Bob!, and to peek underneath Old Bessie. It's a shame that most people will never see that side of her... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 4 bufords Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 wish i could have seen the underside of ole bessie but i would have never gotten up,take it easy,don aka 4 bufords from ct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthbob Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Great job Jim...glad to have met you both! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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