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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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There are 3 elements for the floor which are ready: the front part, the rear one and the small bit under the front seat. Now, the task will be to reunite all 3 together, with the hope that the car will not look like a banana!

Obviously, the first step will be to trim the inner rocker panels to the proper length, then solder the front seat panel to the front floor element and trim the rear foot wells and under seat panel until they can be soldered together.

Only then I will begin with the front tunnel.

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The point of no return!

Prior to that, I had to rework the small brackets under the anchor points for the front seat. This is the result of a wrong interpretation of pictures; the brackets were too far away from each other. Not a lot, about 1.5 mm, but enough to have almost a contact with the frame. This can be seen on the first picture. To remove the brackets, there was just one solution: to destruct them by grinding. Once a part is silver soldered, it's extremely difficult to remove it without causing damages to the part itself or to the assembly on which it was. So, after removing them, I did 2 new ones; there is enough space now.

Today, I silver soldered all 3 floor elements together. Due to the heat, there was some "movement" and I had to attempt some corrections with a larger hammer as usual. It's amazing the distortion such an assembly can have with some heat!

As you can see, the junction between the rear foot wells and the pan under seat is not yet completed; this is the next task.

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I have just found this thread and read it all in one sitting, I am utterly speechless at the quality of your work. If I ever need microsurgery, I'd like you to do it please.

Amnother supporter from Australia, welcome! And thank you for your comments. How long did you have to read all?

I'm afraid that I won't be able to help with microsurgery, I don't like blood!

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Last week, I was very busy with two Hydramatic transmissions to overhaul (1956 & 1959) so I had few moments to continue the floor. Anyway, I managed to do both front feet wells. The difficulty here was to close 3 sides at once, with no overlapping at some places. It all went more or less well; both wells are almost identical.

The next step will be with the front tunnel; it will be a funny part...

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Last day, I took a decision: all future work on the floor will be with soft solder. The heat needed to assemble bits with silver solder is so intensive that I'm faced with minor deformation. Now, after brazing the top of the front tunnel, I cleaned the assembly. It's now almost shining like gold!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes, because it's ready! I added even the "windows" in it; they are for various maintenance works like speedometer cable or to adjust the band for the transmission. The holes I did are not exact; they were done according to one picture and one drawing. However, it's not important as they will be closed permanently because I will not install a speedometer cable and my transmission will need no adjustment! The tunnel itself is probably not exact; I did it according to my own frame and again pictures. Anyway, thank you Jay for some dimensions you gave me; they were helpful.

the next picture will show the floor with a light coat of primer; I have enough to see it that way.

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Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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After some finishing work, I sprayed today the floor .It's far from totally finished, but the next steps will require some handling and the brass is getting all the time dirty.

The surface is far from perfect; some refinishing will be needed; this will done when the body is assembled with solder to the floor. It's not for tomorrow!

I used an industrial 2-stage paint (is that the correct term? base paint with hardener and thinner), it will certainly be more tough than the paint from the rattle can. I used a spray gun for scale models.

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  • 2 weeks later...
WOW! anytime I need to feel inadequate I just look at what you have created!! ;-)

Seriously though, I have to tell you that seeing your craftsmanship has raised the bar in my own work and for that I thank you!

Cheers,

Larry

Thank you Larry!

I raised the bar myself by publishing what I'm doing! Sorry if my topic forced you to raise your own bar...

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Fortunately, my various jobs are over for the moment and I could continue the wheel houses. One half is soldered to the floor; the other one must be trimmed and will be installed soon.

I began the wood form for the spare wheel well, but I'm not happy with it. I will need to make a

temporary form with plastiline to continue with the wood.

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As you can see on the picture, the second wheelhouse was soldered to the floor. Now, I have a strong floor as the wheelhouses are keeping the back with some strength.

I added also the reinforcements at the bolt attachment points to the frame. I could have done it with a piece of flat brass, but, as this will be seen for months/years until it's either covered with carpet or hidden with the rear seat, I went a little bit further and did the parts more or less like the original ones, just for the fun.

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  • 3 weeks later...

This "small" stamped part is more or less an headache to do. Before I began with the wood pattern, I did a form with plasticine. Once this form pleased me, I began with the wood, with the hope that I was not too far away from the truth - first picture.

Then it was the turn of beating the brass on the pattern. As the second picture is showing, the wheel well will be done in two parts. The first one is done by cutting pieces of brass away, trying to shape the part and silver solder each slice, the same technique I used for the wheel houses.

Once the first part was done, the second one came in. I fitted both part, held together with masking tape. Fortunately I have the tires, so I could check if the spare tire could go into that well. The whole exercise was more guessing than measuring as the well is at an angle compared to the floor.

The last task was to silver solder both halves together (but joint) which was not especially easy as the sheet metal like to expand/distort when heated. Anyway, the last picture is showing the well, almost ready to be soldered to the floor. It is a tight fit for the tire; I will probably use a not too nice tire as a spare wheel as it will probably suffer a bit at the bottom.

The well may protrude a little bit more than necessary (maybe 1mm) just to be sure I will have enough clearance to close the trunk lid!

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The spare wheel well was soldered to the floor yesterday. Owners of a Mark II will notice, on the second picture, the small bracket for the rod securing the spare wheel. This odd part is the last large one which was added to the floor, closing that chapter. There are still unfinished small details like adding the missing "cushions" between floor and frame.

Of course, the outer wheel houses are not yet done; they will be in work when the rear fenders are ready.

I will order some wood the next few days; this will be the beginning of the body.

As noted above, I still have numerous of small details to finish, nothing spectacular to show.

The pictures are showing the soldered spare wheel well, I could not resist adding a wheel into it!

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This ugly little piece will be a fuel pump once finished...While I'm waiting for the wood for the body, I'm doing parts which were not yet done and there are many...

While looking at a '54-'56 Cadillac fuel pump I have on stock, I noticed that the diaphragm for the fuel must be the same as the Lincoln/Continental pumps. The mounting flange is also identical...It's not a wonder, both pumps are made by AC!

The Cadillac fuel pump is not combined with a vacuum pump for the wipers as these engines have a vacuum pump installed under the oil pump. Similar system but the approach was different. I have to add that the fuel pump on Cadillac engines is less than ideally placed in the middle of the V (this stupid location has a negative effect for the vapor-lock); there was no available space for the vacuum part. The pump on the Lincoln engines is placed very low, probably well ventilated

during driving.

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The ugly little part turned to be a rather nice one with many tiny pieces of brass added on the main "structure". Almost (but not all) every detail is included into this little part done with 47 separate pieces. The pictures below are showing the pump unprepared for paint. Once a slight coat of surfacer will be applied, some flaws will disappear.

This is almost a waste of time to include so many details into a part which will be seen just from under...

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Roger, we are all following along and are in awe of your work. We are enjoying the journey.

Do you keep track of the hours you spend on the project? And as an example, how many hours do you have just in the construction of the fuel pump, which is fantastic by the way.

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Roger, we are all following along and are in awe of your work. We are enjoying the journey.

Do you keep track of the hours you spend on the project? And as an example, how many hours do you have just in the construction of the fuel pump, which is fantastic by the way.

Thank you John! Well, the journey will be a long one...

No, I don't track the hours I'm on the model, just the number of years! For the fuel pump, I began last wednesday (Sept. 26), according to the date on the first sketch (or shop drawing). I'm working usually the afternoon, with interruptions as the computer is next to the work table; this machine is a huge distraction; without it I would be quicker but, on the other side, I would not get so many informations. When I began the refreshment of the Avanti, there was almost nothing on the net; now, as 3 persons are working on such a car I could ask for specific pictures the way I'm doing for the Mark II.

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After that tiny part (which has now a light coat of paint to improve the look) I began the battery tray. This is conveniently placed in the middle of the firewall; you must have very long and strong arms to remove or install a battery!

The base of the tray is not flat; it would be too weak. Even if it will be hidden by the battery, I did the pressed form. The almost finished part (the side supports are not yet done) is on the left; the tooling is in the middle and the fuel pump with a light coat of primer is on the right.

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After adding some small parts and doing the lower support, the tray was ready to get a light coat of paint.

For a long time, I wondered why there was a channel slightly below the top of the tunnel. I thought it was to rigidify the floor; obviously, it's a support for the battery. With just the 4 screws at the firewall, the battery tray would land on the transmission after a short time.

The second picture is showing the location of the tray; those unfamiliar with a Mark II will understand my prior comments!

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  • 2 weeks later...

As the wood for the body pattern is way from ready (the people at the woodwork are busy), I'm continuing with the small elements which have to be added anyway.

Now, it's the turn of the fuel tank. After looking at the pictures, it was obvious that the upper and lower halves are stamped on the same die; the plumbing is added after the parts are pressed.

I took the decision to take a different way with the tank: a pattern made with wax, the negative done with the same material as the tires (but no black tint added) and the tank itself with polyester. A long process for a simple part!

Doing the form with wax does not require much strength but it's an annoying materiel to work with: the small shavings like to stick to the tools and table; too warm hands let the wax to melt and, if an error is done, there is no way to glue something to repair the blunder!

Polyester has also his disadvantages: there is usually lot of air pockets, the tools have a short life because of the fiberglass, but it's strong and light.

As the model will have electric windows, both halves from the tank will not be glued together as I may need the inner space to hide some electric module, who knows.

The last picture is showing both polyester halves and the flange which is coming at the separation line.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The fuel tank is an annoying thing. I let the primer dry for some time; I will come back to it soon. In between, I began the fuse holder. This is a rather large sheet metal part attached to the firewall.

First came the bracket, held with 4 screws at the firewall. On top of that is the fuse holder, as well as some relays. Fuses and relays are protected by a cover attached by 3 wing nuts. There is some space under that cover; what could I store here? Some diamonds?

I spend a long time doing the wing nuts, but I succeed!

The ignition coil and the remote starter motor relay are attached to the main bracket; I did the coil which is attached by two 0.5 mm (0.02") screws I bought in the USA! Up to now, my smallest screws were 0.6 mm; fortunately I still don't shake too much when I'm doing the threads...The resistor to the coil and the starter motor relay are coming next.

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Yesterday, I did the resistor. I did it twice in fact as, near the end, I did a major mistake. Well, at least, I did not waste a lot of brass!

The challenge for me was to drill the small holes. They are .3 mm (0.012"); had the bit since ages, but never used it. I had to use my first Unimat machine with a custom chuck to hold it...

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I was tempted to try to be funny and say you had one of the holes out of alignment, but they actually all look perfectly aligned to me. That is just another example of your amazing attention to small detail and amazing skills! You continue to impress us all.

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