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Everything posted by aussiecowboy

  1. If it has the original honeycomb radiator, they can't really be cleaned effectively once blocked. Hot caustic solutions can be used but the cores can't be "wired out" like a modern core. A simple test is to cap the inlet and outlet, fill radiator with water and remove outlet cap, the radiator should empty itself very quickly, within a few seconds, if it takes longer then you have blocked cores. Apart from that, timing too retarded, mixture too lean, exhaust restricted. Good luck!
  2. Any machine shop can make those washers in no time and quite cheaply.
  3. I need a new set of 40 thou over pistons for the engine in my 23 Flint. Egge don’t appear to make them, can anyone suggest a possible source. Thanks.
  4. A friend just bought this little trailer, would love to know what the differential and wheels are from, fairly unusual.
  5. A difference in interpretation I guess. I view the system more as an airflow through the block, I don’t believe it produces any measurable positive pressure inside the block, certainly not enough to be blowing oil past the crank slinger. If the vent tube was blocked then absolutely.
  6. You hope I’m wrong about what? Both the breather and road draft tubes, when removed from the engine, have no restriction to airflow. The breather is on the correct way and is clean and oiled.
  7. Thanks, I’ll start the search. Ive thought of a modern lip seal but it would need to run on the snout of the balancer, this would need machining to provide a suitable surface and give enough clearance, I’m concerned this would remove a lot of strength and lead to possible failure.
  8. I can blow through the draft tube with no restriction whatsoever, I'm confident the crank case isn't getting pressurised. A restriction elsewhere is possible I suppose, I did 250 miles in the car the weekend before last though, I think oil starvation elsewhere would have shown symptoms. I pulled the timing cover on the weekend and installed a much thinner gasket, made no difference. If I can find a 1930-32 seal assembly I'll modify a timing cover to suit. If you can look up that part number for me it would be a big help Reid.
  9. Slinger is not on backwards, it will only fit one way. It throws the oil forwards onto the timing cover where it runs down around the raised section and drains back into the pan through a pair of holes cast into the block.
  10. As far as I'm aware this style of seal was only used from 1930 onwards, 29 and previous only had an oil slinger as in the below pictures. I'd be quite happy to add a seal assembly if it would work, and if I could find one.
  11. Had the engine in my 29 Pontiac rebuilt and now it leaks lots of oil from the front crank pulley. Being a 29 it only has a slinger and not a seal. The manual says to pay particular attention to orientation of oil squirter and gasket thickness but doesn't give specific information on either. I have a cork gasket on the timing cover now which I think might be too think. Can anyone help out with further information? Cheers
  12. Needed to keep my 32 Pontiac 302 alive, original manifolds have too many cracks to repair. Any leads appreciated.
  13. I have a 23 Flint with a continental engine, loss of oil pressure and a rod knock means a rebuild is due but I'm having trouble finding any info on this engine anywhere, I'm hoping to order parts but can't find reference to it anywhere. Any information or leads gratefully accepted. 
  14. I have a 23 Flint with a continental engine, loss of oil pressure and a rod knock means a rebuild is due but I'm having trouble finding any info on this engine at all, I'm hoping to order parts but can't find reference to it anywhere. Any information or leads gratefully accepted.
  15. There is a bad oil leak between the pinion section and the rest of the split housing. I've never worked with this type of axle before and I'm wondering if I can simply undo the 4 bolts and remove the pinion section to make a new gasket or will that mess up all the clearances? It runs smooth and quiet at the moment and I don't want to ruin that.
  16. Time will tell I guess. It wasn't out of stock when I bought it, I assume that I got the only kit he had.
  17. What a great link! And in Australia too, strange that none of my google searches came up with them. I've ordered a rebuild kit from them, should be here in a day or two. Thanks for the tip!
  18. I'm having carb problems on my 1923 Flint, does anyone have drawings or rebuild instructions for a stromberg OX2?
  19. I've had this problem, the distributor body rusts into the block. I put a pipe wrench on the shaft of the distributor and while holding moderate pressure on the handle gave the body of the pipe wrench a couple of light hammer blows, it was enough to break the dizzy loose.
  20. Very hard to find, the threads are all a bit thin after 80+ years. You can grind the thread off and cut a new thread one size smaller.
  21. I've just bought a 1923 Flint and would be interested to hear from other owners.
  22. The rear mounts on the 29 provide all the strength and rigidity, the engine block is solid bolted to the chassis on both sides with no rubber or cushioning, if the engine rotates at all then you have bigger problems! There is only one bolt on the front of the engine and as you suggest, it's more a locator than anything.
  23. It is worth noting that the emblems were the same in 1926 and 1927 but 1928 was different. The earlier ones are considerable larger than the 28 emblems.