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Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12


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On 1/27/2019 at 4:30 PM, Roger Zimmermann said:

No, there is no link or whatever. I did that model between 1966 and 1980 (or later). What I'm showing here is the intend to finish it; indeed to repair and finish it. I have so few pictures on paper and it was done so many years ago, I cannot do a story like I did with the Mark II.

 

I was born in 1966, the same year as Roger's Toronado.  I find this very pleasing. :)   This also means that both the Toronado and myself are classified as antiques!!

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14 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

 

I was born in 1966, the same year as Roger's Toronado.  I find this very pleasing. :)   This also means that both the Toronado and myself are classified as antiques!!

 

Ok, if you are an 'antique', what's that make me, born in 1946 - 'Stone Age'!! This morning, I do feel very old and ancient.

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It’s now time for a small update. I’m “working” much slowly because I have no pressure!

When all the “furniture” was out, I tried to let run the electrical engine which should move the model. It is intended to run with 6 V but with my battery pack, I had nothing. The accelerator is connected to a variable resistance; I could see the wire moving with the pedal but I was unsure how the other side of the resistance to close the circuit. I removed another trim panel at the dash; the view to the resistance was marginally better, not more. There is a black heavy wire attached to the dash’s brass structure; it should be the wire I’m searching…By applying current to the black wire and the slider which is moved by the accelerator, the engine ran. To make it short, I had two days to understand what was wrong! I remember that I used a small transformer for electric trains, which I still have. I connected it to the motor and I had an idle and full power!

With that problem solved, I could have a look at the seat switch. I tried to rescue it, but I was not happy with the whole design. I did another one which may be better; the whole is now ready and assembled into the trim panel. I must wrap the wires with some tape and reinstall.

21 Switch assembly.JPG

22 Assembled switch.JPG

23 Trim panel.JPG

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Before I’m continuing with the wiring, I wanted to modify the seat adjusters. It could be that my seat was too narrow as the centerline of the adjusters does not line up with the seat base; the pedestals for the tracks were offset on the old system. I wanted to do similar adjusters to the ones from the Mark II, but due to this distance situation, I had to imagine something narrower. I’m more or less satisfied with the end result; it’s most of the time not easy to adapt something to an existing construction. I did a test with the motor and 1.5V; the seat is moving more or less with regularity. I hope that with 3V it will be better.

 

24 seat adjusters.JPG

25 seat adjusters.JPG

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Removing parts is most of the time more interesting than the restoration work because it goes so quickly! This is true with real cars and it does apply with this model too: as I know that the retractable headlamp system is not too reliable, the sole way to get at it is to remove grille and front bumper. I’m not sure if I will have to remove the front panel too, the future will tell it.

Now I have more and more parts removed; it could be the right time to begin some assembly!

 

 

26 removing the bumper.JPG

27 removed bumper.JPG

28 removed bumper.JPG

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On ‎1‎/‎30‎/‎2019 at 8:27 AM, Roger Zimmermann said:

What should I say with my born date of 1945! However, sometimes still acting like a teenager (but somewhat slower)! 

I love your comments they do make me laugh out loud.

It's nice to see another post on your 'restoration/rebuild' of the Tornado. I still cannot get my head around working on such small things. I have never found it easy working on full size car components, like retractable headlights, let alone retractable headlights and electric seats that are 1:12 scale! I look forward to your following posts.

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Indeed, I wanted to install the door’s wiring. It went not so well, therefore I had to take it out again. I “managed” to break 2 wires; putting in question if, with the door installed, I can install the wiring where it belongs.

Before I went up, I had the idea to remove the LH fender; it would help greatly with the wiring matter. Surprisingly, it took about 10 minutes to remove the fender, very easy, compared to the recent model I did, the Mark II.

First the rocker panel molding must be removed; I remembered that both small moldings at the front fender and rear quarter, above the rocker molding, are just inserted into a slot because I could not attach them with clips. 4 screws later, the rocker panel is gone. Instead to remove the fender with the wheel house, I removed the 5 screws attaching both parts and 5 more and the front fender is gone. It was then easy to take both pins from the hinges out and the door is removed. Now, I can install the wiring through the door, and assemble it.

The RH door has too much play at the above hinge; as the fenders are so easy to remove, the RH one will be removed too at a later date. Anyway, if I have to remove the panel in front of the hood to improve the headlamp system, the fenders have to be removed because there is one screw on each side of the panel with is attached at the radiator cradle.

The vacuum motor to activate the headlamp door is of course a fake one. It’s here just for the show and out of view when the fender is installed.

29 removing rocker.JPG

30 attaching screw.JPG

31 removed front fender.JPG

32 removed front fender.JPG

33 door removed too.JPG

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i was wondering if you ever made hose clamp(s) or they did nt come with any .... ?

 

besides that the attention to detail is truly amazing ... 😃

 

keep those foto(s) and update(s) coming .... keep up the most excellent remarkable work i have ever seen as of yet 

2050934692_12engineview.JPG.99d85e4a142bae06ff8dc5d73cc0a7c9.JPG

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12 hours ago, jfreakofkorn said:

i was wondering if you ever made hose clamp(s) or they did nt come with any .... ?

Some one asked already about this detail. Effectively, I neglected to do them many years ago. The hose clamps are on the improvement list!

 

Thanks also to John and Nelson!

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The door’s wiring was installed yesterday and the electrical continuity tested. As I cannot do a conduit with rubber like the real car, I wrapped the wires with an strange electrical tape: it can be lengthened getting thinner and narrower. The benefit of it: it is self-adhesive and is extremely difficult to unwrap, in contrary to the regular electrical tape. Don’t ask me its name, I don’t have it and don’t remember where I bought it. Then I installed the trim to the door’s shell.

Today, I refreshed the seats (logical, with so many driven miles!) by using a leather paint I have since ages. It’s very thin, is hardly covering, but gives uniformity because the leather was not perfectly tinted when I bought it. When the paint was dry (it takes a few minutes to dry), I rubbed the leather with a leather conditioner I’m using indeed for my real cars.

34 cleaned seats.JPG

35 door is ready.JPG

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Murphy’s Law? While removing the RH trim panels to check the window switch, I noticed that the string actuating the quarter window was no more in its lower guide. This guide is attached to the body with 2 screws inserted from the wheelhouse. Easy to remove, but it was another matter to reinstall it. How did I do that many years ago? Sure, front and rear windows were not yet installed, I had no glasses and the body was not yet installed on the frame. With some tricks that guide was in place after about 2 hours. I tested the switch just to see that the string went out at the upper guide! It stayed there very brave when the string had the wrong position at the lower guide; Did I that different path years ago to avoid problems at the upper guide? I don’t know. I will remove the channel and modify the upper guide. It seems that I will be busy for some time!

To unscrew the lower guide, I had to remove the wheel. It was a good opportunity to put a drop of watch oil into both ball bearings. Have a look too at the brake drum; I don’t remember exactly how I did them; I just remember that the drum itself is brass and the fins are made with polyester. I see now the importance of documentation, even for a scale model.

As you probably know, Toronado cars had a monolame leaf spring at the rear. Unfortunately, I could not duplicate that single leaf and had to make a conventional system. The parking brake from the model is the sole to function without problem because the actuating pedal is at the right location to be pushed with a finger.

39 quarter window.JPG

38 finned drum.JPG

36 small bearing.JPG

37 larger bearing.JPG

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No!!!!!!!!!!     This is truly astonishing ! I mean, the detail of the brakes is literally mind boggling ! As I have said before, mere words fall short in their effort to somehow capture and compliment the genius of your work, Roger. So many of us are stunned, mute before the revelations of "The Master". Please pardon my feeble attempt to pay respect to your creativity. You are absolutely second to none.    -     Carl 

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1 hour ago, C Carl said:

No!!!!!!!!!!     This is truly astonishing ! I mean, the detail of the brakes is literally mind boggling ! As I have said before, mere words fall short in their effort to somehow capture and compliment the genius of your work, Roger. So many of us are stunned, mute before the revelations of "The Master". Please pardon my feeble attempt to pay respect to your creativity. You are absolutely second to none.    -     Carl 

 

I was going to say the same thing, but Carl has it covered.

 

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Thanks, Luv2Wrench ! I am marshalling up what's left of my Grey matter to try to say something worthwhile about Roger's rescue and resurrection of the '56 Eldo' Bi'z. It is not an exaggeration to say Roger has more capability in his pinkie finger than I can put my all to. Another great big WOW  !!!!!!!!!       -    CC 

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Yesterday way a really bad day for the model: after removing the window’s guide, I did a guard at the upper guide, and reassemble the whole. There are only 3 screws; I had the whole afternoon for the story. Then, I tried the quarter window. Strange, it goes very slowly, like a dead battery. But the string stayed in place until it was a tiny “crac” and the string broke. I will have of course to replace the string and, inside the model I will have to do 2 knots when I have difficulties to enter just one hand. The question is coming again, how did I do that for 30 years?

For the moment, everything is out: the motor, the window and the guides. I’m putting the model on the side for a couple of days until I’m getting the energy to solve that problem or to let that quarter window fixed in the up or down position.

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To rescue that quarter window, I supposed that removing the RH door could not harm; there is anyway something wrong with the window from that door. Indeed, the string here is broken too! As it will be easier to repair the door when it’s out of the car, it’s like one stone and two flies.

It was an easy task to remove the front fender, pins from the door and disconnect the single switch. Fortunately, the wiring is staying into the car, easier than on the LH side.

There is too much play at the hinges; I noticed that I tried to solve the problem long ago with some soft soldering on the pins. I will have to increase the hinges holes and use larger pins.

While I was at removing parts, it took the back window out. It was glued with contact cement which does not age well.

40 strip-tease.JPG

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Many thanks to search for solutions! It could be that the age has an influence: I tried to tear the remaining string: I could to it easily. On the contrary, I tried the same with the string I have since years (therefore it has the same age): I cannot tear it. I could not tear the remaining string from the rear window either. It could be that the string went weak for an unknown reason. I'm sure I could find a similar product locally. Anyway, the string diameter is important and the fact that it has to be "bent" on rathe small radii.

The string I have has a diameter of .45mm  (0.018") and the small pulleys have a diameter of 2.8mm(0.11").

Anyway, something to think about!

By the way, what about the string's health of the other side? As the LH door is not yet installed, it's not too late to have a good look at that string. I've not yet searched for that Kevlar string; it's making its way into my old brain!

I'm glad that the windows from the Mark II are purely mechanical, actuated by the electric motors.

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
Comments added (see edit history)
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Mike, the string broke most probably because of the stress. Have a look at the attached picture I did right now. When the window is going down, there is extreme stress on the string just after the pulley on the extreme left, because the window is coming to its stop. It the same on the extreme right. The string on the left near the motor has no tension now, but it will have a lot when the window is up. There is a pulley and a spring on the right behind that broad piece of brass, but  the device is not well done and inefficient. As you can see that the string at the left of the motor is frayed, after about 10 times up and down. It's also a candidate spot for weakness.

I did a search at that magic Kevlar reinforced thread; unfortunately, the diameter and other properties are not described in all the sites I had a look. If the properties and diameter are available for my needs, it will be the solution because I will not be able to avoir the stress at some places.

Are you confused with my tentative of explanation? Me too!

41 window system.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Since that window lift design was developed in the seventies, there was a problem with the string tension: either too much or there was slop. The tensioner I did then was not very helpful; time to do something more efficient: it’s a pulley on an arm, as well as a spring giving something similar with an engine’s belt tensioner. Indeed, there must be 2 tensioners but the tests I did are quite satisfactory with only one.

By reaching my glasses this morning, the electrical wires were catch in the glasses and the door fell on the floor. The lower corner at the right is showing that misshapen; fortunately, the molding will hide it at the outside. I have no paint anymore; I will try to mix some to hide the inside damage.

I’m now searching for a Kevlar string to avoid future breaks of the cotton string;  a good idea indeed, thanks Mike!

42 new tensioner.JPG

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Roger, If you can find the manufacturer of the Kevlar string you could try asking for a sample? They may send you enough to last you a long time.

 

I hope the accident repair to the door will not be as complicated as Jeff (love2wrench) has found with the door from his daughters car!

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Up to now, I found resellers only. By one, who is selling per meter, I asked details like flexibility and diameter. Let see if I'm getting an answer!

Fortunately, the accident at the door is marginal as the door is made with polyester resin and fiberglass. It will not be a repair like Jeff had to do! I suppose if that door would have been in metal, the damage would be more consequent.

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If you don’t find what you are looking for, ask the wife! And, indeed, Christine came with a string her mother had since ages. I did a resistance test by rubbing about 100 times the string over a sharp piece. Its looks not very nice now, but I still cannot break it! The sting I used before was submitted to the same test: after 10 times, I had 2 pieces.

A string with Kevlar may be stronger, but what I will be using now is good enough. Anyway, thanks a lot Mike for the suggestion! Without you, I would have used my cotton based string, without thinking further.

43 new string.JPG

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The “new” string was installed. It’s more difficult to close the loop because the material is slipping more than cotton. After some up and downs, it seems that this is OK. I’ll let it that way for the moment; I will check if the tension is getting less and less, but I don’t think so.

In between, I removed the chromes parts to both front fender and I removed as good as I could the orange peel, something I did not when the model was ready. The almost 30 years old paint is still good and the shine is nice. Not as deep as the Mark II paint, but quite acceptable. I wanted to show the smooth surface with those pictures; I did maybe 12 or 15 and kept only those 2.

44 buffed paint.JPG

45 buffed paint.JPG

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Probably I’m not alone to act that way: when I see difficulties or don’t know how to perform a task, I’m finding a lot of other things to do: answer emails, polish the paint, improving something which could be done later, and so on. But once, it’s over with distractions. The string replacement at the quarter window was delayed and delayed until I had to grasp the task because only when it’s done can I go further with the model.

It was like I feared: not easy. I had some habit to work with that new material at the RH front door; finally, I had the courage to begin the quarter window. On paper, it’s easy: a string, do a loop with that, install the window guide and the motor. Maximum 7 screws and no space!

As you can see from the pictures, the drum at the motor cannot be seen when it’s in place. The string must be rolled on the drums before the installation and, if both strings are not under tension, they unroll themselves!

I had a first half success: when assembled, I saw that one string is not in its guide (a déjà vu situation!). I removed that guide support, the one which took about an afternoon to install the first time. I took it out to make a wider and deeper guide and I imagined a simple tool to help at the installation. My idea was correct; the guide was in after 20 minutes. Then one electric wire at the motor broke because I used it to manipulate the motor. I could partially take the motor out and solder the wire.

The attached pictures are showing how the window is moving; the system was pictured in the 1966 Fisher body manual and I adapted it.

I’m still unsure what to do with the LH quarter window. I will remove the upper trim and if I don’t see any damage at the old wire, I let it that way. I will however rode the string at the LH front door.

46 windoow up.JPG

47 mid-way.JPG

48 window down.JPG

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