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buick man

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Everything posted by buick man

  1. Here is the listing: https://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/d/clayton-1950-buick-super-eight/6849535359.html
  2. Yeah it is absolutely really nice car for sure and saw this episode years ago. One comment I have is the guy says .... "unrestored just the way I found it" ... If that is the case, and definitely no bad intended to the owner, ... If this car indeed sat for any length of time before he got it and even regardless if it had not and only had been driven 1 mile a month since new, I doubt seriously if the engine bay would present with such clean shiny painted surfaces especially on the valve covers considering old single stage factory enamel would surface fade and easily chip with the heat, wear a
  3. .... great find Ed and what a comparison. Some years back the secret sauce in WD40 wash fish oil believe it not .. and none of these are actually oil base but are fluid based. It is interesting to see good ol' ATF which is no surprise but with acetone mixed into it that puzzles us. Acetone which of course is a very volatile ketone, which one would expect to evaporate within minutes once exposed to air is accredited to this mix. It would be interesting to see what the torque difference would be with just ATF alone without the acetone mix. In the past I have used ATF as a stand alone for rem
  4. These are truly gorgeous and what a really priceless find indeed. The 51-52 club man should not pass on these. Eric if you can try and make a xerox copy of these instructions and post them in the library to posterity.
  5. ... so can anyone tell us all what should the best kit be composed of and where would one get that best most complete kit ?
  6. ... well truth be told my take is I don't really use WD40 on anything anymore cause it causes rust just ask anyone who has owned and lived on a boat like I did for 15 yrs can tell you; As for PB Blaster it should have a skull and bones emblem on the front of it ( the smell alone is a clue ) ... so the real GO-TO for this guy is LU103 made by Sprayon T.M. . It works like a blow torch in a silk glove and it's pleasantly Vanilla scented as well. Here is the link : https://www.sprayon.com/product/lu103-high-performance-rust-penetrant-rust-breaker/ After getting to a po
  7. Wow this is one great nice retro collection you don't want to miss ... gee now I want my shop to look like some of these and the stairs that say BUICK is at the top too !
  8. well regardless what kind of lubricant you use or how much heat one would think for sure just standing there and beating against your nuts will get them off real fast but ya gotta be careful, after all you could damage them, so if your real careful you can keep em in good condition and have them ready to use over and over again if'in they're not all scraped up gouged and damaged.
  9. ... Just thought while I was waiting and waiting for the water to boil while checking my thermostat I would ask what folks are using in the way of technique and products to get all this nasty stubborn and even tight nuts and bolts loose without ruining them cause you don't want that do you ? ... and you don't want to skin your knuckles either. So with that said, personally my Go-To method is to get what i'n working on nice and hot taking my time and then take a short breather and let em cool down a bit, then when it gets there start doing it again, Oh and you can repeat as necessa
  10. ... Yes we hear that Al for sure, yet that Korean era chrome was still we believe hexavalent although trivalent was being used as far back as the thirties for small accessory items.
  11. ... no did not go see it as I am on the left coast just went to the craigslist ad and cut the photos out of the ad .... like I said they really loved to give us green back then cause they had a lot of it laying around so we have been told .. also if you go and get the rear bumper chromed and you want it to match even from 40 feet away make sure your plater uses the original Hexavalent chrome process and not the dyed Trivalent chrome process ... put them side by side and it is day to night diffierence. The Hexavalent will be the nice original blueish tone chrome and the Trivalent will have the
  12. Spotted this on Denver Area Craigslist : Due to wife's illness I'am forced to sell some of my toys. This 57 Buick is a decent driver but I had the blue paint partially sanded down on top and now has patina which I have clear coated. It is a solid car with only small rust in spare tire well. I hope to have one of my grand-kids get me updated pics and video soon. It runs and drives but I haven't drove it since last summer. Interior needs to be redone as its dry from the Arid climate and sun. Tires are good and I have these wheels and or spoke wheels, 364 Nailhead v8 starts right up
  13. Heck this looks like a great deal no doubt for the give-a-way asking price .... As the green paint goes there was A LOT of green paint around that every car factory was trying desperately to get rid of at this time. What with after WWII and being in the process of getting kick-ed out of North Korea around this time everything was being painted various shades of green ... bicycles, wagons, toys, cars, lawnmowers, city parking meters, city fall out shelters .... even bell telephone trucks if you are old enough to remember those .....
  14. Just A Heads Up - For anyone interested this 1948 Dodge 4-door Deluxe one family owned auction ends in about 35 minutes ... LOW original Miles and low bidding so far: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1949-dodge-deluxe/
  15. Welcome Dennis... we always support innovation and free thinkers around here. Make sure to post and boast your craft postings in the My Buick section found on this site.
  16. Gonna be pulling my torque tube and axle housing this spring so ... Looking for good quality rubber non polyurethane bushings source that actually fit for the following torque tube/rear axle components as listed : 1957 Buick torque tube Rear Axle Strut Rod to Torque Tube : Bushing for Strut Rod to Strut Rod Bracket Grp 5.384 1957 Buick Differential Carrier Gasket : Grp 5.508, PN: 1168745 ( Most likely cardboard ) 1957 Buick Radius Rod Bushings: Grp 5.417 Size: 5/8" I.D. X 1-7/64" O.D. x 1-1/4" O.D. X 13/16" L 1957 Rear Axle Filling Plug: PN: 13
  17. ... No paint on my pumpkin differential or axle housings ... the front differential carrier on the other hand which connects to the driveshaft/torque tube is painted from the factory a semi gloss enamel adobe brown
  18. Martin ... just get some Poor Boys wheel paste and apply 3 coats as directed to the tube and whatever other exposed metal you have ... it will keep the metal protected from rusting and does not wash off very easily ... clears sprayed over bare metal is really a non performer idea as the clear to adhere long term needs a binder to bond to such as a primer or top coat otherwise you will get adhesion problems down the road . So here's a few photos of my factory original torque tube taken from a post I published here about 5 or 6 years ago .... not painted from factory with original assemb
  19. I too never make mistakes but … apparently one day back in 1967, I made what everyone thought was a wrong mistake but turns out that in 1994 it was discovered that I had not and was right after all … so does that count ?
  20. From J-B Weld Tech Pages, note however there are three other J-B Weld compound formulations sold, neither of which they recommend for heat conditions / exchangers, this one below however does by no doubt by a lot. The overall cured density of the J-B compound may apparently be linear in relationship to it's heat capacity so increases as their formulations for heat resistance increases: J-B Weld™ ExtremeHeat™ is formulated to allow for repairs to iron, steel and metal in high temperature environments (2400°F / 1300°C). When fully cured, this metallic compound can be drilled, machi
  21. Yes, there is a factory chassis and a factory body manual and both usually cover around 10 years back from the date of publication. Get the one with the publishing date that matches your car within a couple years on or after. The fenders look about 3 x heavier than they actually are. Just prop some stuff under each as you remove so bolts don't bind. If you can get an extra pair of hands take the whole entire clip off all at once. That is accomplished by again just supporting everything against gravity. The factory would lower the entire front assembly minus the bumper and hood down o
  22. Great questions John …. Yes, safety locks at your desired height ….This BenPak lift uses an auxiliary shop air supply line to actuate a solid chunk of heavy metal tooth that rides over the top of an opposing solid "step piece" that is set into the lift foot base and the solid heavy metal tooth rides over the top of and sets for each 4-inches or so as the lift rises. This sliding lock action secures the lift as it goes up the steps and effectively locks the assembly at each 4-inch stage. To lower, the control tower as can be seen in the photo has a air actuated push button on the console. To
  23. Here is a photo of my Bendpak lift in my shop. Although the 7,000 lb capacity lift goes to 7-feet, due to my limited 8-foot ceiling height I can get about 40-inches of workable clearance and in only a matter of minutes. I use 4-rubber blocks strategically located so the frame is off the ramp which allows me to work under any portion of frame or sill area :
  24. … before getting my expanding BenPak 7,000 lb lift …. I always and still do use a simple setup consisting of the following : 4- metal ramps, one inexpensive high lift rolling 2-ton jack ( One which allows one to take the round single jack point bagel pad that comes on the jack and purchase an replacement attachment which is an adjustable width single arm with bar with dual outrigged bagel pads) . One 25-foot towing cable preferably a fabric one so it does not abrasion your under-carriage components. Also purchase an inexpensive winch. As an anchoring point for the winch use a metal concrete
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