Jump to content

buick man

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by buick man

  1. .... er now I'm getting confused, you mean 2 range Dynaflow right with 2 sprockets ? .... 😇
  2. I think this is nice for the price overall. Clean and tidy and well sorted even the trunk looks nice. As one pointed out regarding a hint of rust and if there is indeed rust one must remember we are talking about a 49 Buick and the gauge of the sheet metal is about a 1/4 inch thick so repairs if even needed are a simple deal. Wonder how much it would cost to replate the rear bumper anyone know exactly ? The front looks really good. And just for posterity a few photos :
  3. Special Ed : Not to sound too pretentious here and I mean no bad, but I recommend that you go drive a real period correct dynaflow and report back to us on your take about the absolute obvious lack of ANY sensation, sound, vibration of sprockets or gears changing during acceleration or deceleration ... That is Dynaflow ....
  4. Edit to my prior post : Smartin yes you had a very nice complete original model 57 and got a proper and realistic price for value at the sale but that was not my contention here so perhaps I should give an abbreviated power point explanation to clarify once again .... In short IMO you never would of gotten even half that amount had you gone through BaT ... and this seller who knows it now should never of done so either. Classic cars selling on BaT are almost always " mercy sales " ( aka load and dump sales ) via estate executors i.e with no reserve or through non savvy family members with re
  5. Or it could just be a mod as an old hippy ride and was thought to be psychedelic at the time ?
  6. .... I mean no bad and not defending anything here really , but gee Smartin I just don't think if you had listed your RM on BaT you would of pulled anything near the upper 20's listing price you were asking and most likely why it was listed on both this site and eBay. So a comparably presented car evan as a Special with easily detachable nuances in comparable condition and overall presentation should be lucky to peak at under 10k, really what are we missing and here is why ? BaT is an interesting site. IMO and generally speaking it is a community that can be easily divided ...
  7. ... ah come on folks ... there is a lot of love area in that there back hanger .... Just think about it, pull up to a club event or a C&C, set up a table cloth off the back and lay out some cold cuts and buns, beer or it's your party what would you bring to the party other than a wrench ! Other than that IMO there is a lot to love with the rest of the car as well.
  8. Sunday Pick of the Week : Just came across this 1957 Buick Special over at BAT site ... So what are your thoughts : This could just might redefine what a Tail Gate Party could really be ! https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1957-buick-special-3/
  9. Chris .... I just detailed and explained what a proper 57 Buick pedal should feel like ... what did you miss ? Adam ... Yeah it is a lot to process and perhaps you were just lucking in the past. Like I said it is either the parts : original, cleaned and reused, or new and funky spec or something your doing, missing or over looking. Most likely the master cylinder and rod shaft interface. It is all about the sealing around the shaft at the master cylinder. But if you confidentially feel it has nothing to do with you or the components, go turn up the shoes into the drums up
  10. Here are some more component photos to consider : As for the master cylinder itself as stated above is a metal reservoir chamber but the plunger head rides and seals via multiple rubber and metal components all riding on the just the plunger rod itself as the head is metal not rubber and plunges into the reservoir as a mass of displacement to cause the brake fluid to seek an opposite dynamic in response to the metal plunger rod. This then allows for greater displacement to occur with minimal counter force concentrated on the circumference to the small plunger shaft itself rather than convent
  11. Just my opinions here... Adam in all practical probability it is not the brake shoes and it is not the master cylinder itself as it is just a hollow block as it essentially serves as a hollow metal reservoir ... but wit this system it is all about the rubber seals, metal ring positions, amount and type of lube used upon reassembly. Also you may through no fault of your own have a crappy rebuild kit to begin with ( think type of materials used and the finished tolerances they are molded from ) or possibly you are creating something in how you are reassembling the components .... When you rebu
  12. ... now now Lance, stop pouting just because you have a couple Roadie's ....
  13. Ad Reads: Current owner for the last 24 years. Extensive restoration work completed. New top, all chrome replated. Excellent interior. Black paint with burgundy interior and tan top showcases this beautiful Buick Roadmaster convertible. Fireball straight 8 cylinder engine, dynaflow transmission, power windows and power top.
  14. ..... yeah, yeah you just wanted the garage more than the car ... just make damn sure your new shop rafter design allows for at least a 14 headroom for the bendpak lift ... 👹
  15. It is after all and among a complex array of other things a matter of age dynamics ... today looking back I am amazed really at all the things I was able to take on in far less desirable conditions and circumstances then I would even consider doing today and accomplish them in my 30's with little thought but the task at hand .... 30 + years later I am being humbled and beginning to slowly become aware of and realize my new ever emerging limitations to my previously once long held perceived identity and capabilities. A form of elder adolescence if you will. Getting older sucks no doubt about
  16. WOW on steroids ... Adam did you do all the transmission and rear end R&R yourself in your garage or did you have that done somewhere else ?
  17. Jim: Just a thought and some ideas... but looking at the factory box it appears to be of plastic composite material construction which would easily render itself for a mock up in fiberglass since the original Harrison unit is rectangular ... Consider making yours out of fiberglass via making a proper jig setup. This could be done by constructing a take off by using the general measurements from one still installed in the engine bay and using a cardboard mockup or obtain one on loan and have a lab 3D Model it : :
  18. ... Also note that factory spec rebuild float adjustments as stated in the old factory book does not always equate to an optimum float movement range spec due to the cause and effect of our current pump alcohol based (gas-o-hols, corn-hols etc. ) that is currently available at the pumps and can cause idling, loading and start up issues.
  19. Selim.... Just a few words and heads up comments .... If you are planning on actually rebuilding your dynaflow and not just attempting a " gasket n googh " rebuild you will need spec's on all the factory component wear variances, clearances and know how to mic the components out properly and where to look for spec tolerance wear. You will also need operating PSI ranges at various rpm ranges for the pump and system components in all it's various ranges. ( i.e. I say ranges because the dynaflow does not have gears but pump psi ranges ) before and after assembly. To correctly determine curre
  20. Jim: Just a thought but why not cannibalize an existing system since 95% of everything will bolt right up then rig up a new and improved compressor that is optimized to run on current refrigerant and take your fan blower motor out and have someone install a sealed bearing plastic unit that would ensure quieter operation at higher speeds. You can also then fabricate additional internal under dash pathways to convey directional air flow where desired. Install a Gen Alternator to push the loads while still looking like a generator. That way all your controls will be period correct and perform
  21. .... In the past yes I have and remember " without oil leaks " is only a direct result of installing the upper seal without mangling the seal, twisting it or cutting the seal off at the surface of the cap not allowing for an 1/8 inch protrusion into the bearing cap. Research and school yourself on the technique. Thus the reason for lowing the crankshaft in vivo is to allow upper clearance to insure proper placement. To make the task easier one can use a number of tool aids available to make the job easier.
  22. Russ might have that install on his website under articles. If he does not, installing is not that difficult. You can purchase a seal chaser on line that is essentially a plastic tool with an end that allows you to pull the upper seal up and over the top of the journal. You want to also slightly drop the center and the next main cap journals by loosening the bolts on each a few turns which by doing so allows the crank to come down slightly enough to give you more upper access room at the rear main journal working area. Loosen the center main a little less then the next rear main so the cr
  23. ... Not to highjack this post but this all reminds me when I had my 57 Caballero out on it's first road trip after buying it a month or so earlier for $ 35 dollars from a dealer who had it sitting in the back their lot as a trade-in but with the reverse anchor out of the dynaflow. Surprising because the car was in real good condition overall and ran like a champ. Summer 1973, it was mid summer on a Friday after work and I left town around 7:00. The trip involved about a 2.5 hour drive running on old 2-lane highways and it was starting to get dark. I pulled on the light switch but no headli
  • Create New...