buick man

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Everything posted by buick man

  1. Great it will be good to look them over. Regarding the paint on the passenger's front fender. It definitely looks like lacquer and would be an easy fix just a full days prep and to get by quickly just tape off the upper fender stainless trim as shown in the photo and paper off the surrounding areas. Wash the area well with Dove dish detergent, Wax and Grease removal applied/wiped off, 220 the surface, lacquer prime out the area and let it set for 2-weeks, wet sand 400, Dove detergent wash, Grease & Wax rub down, tack rag the surface, then lacquer paint it in shifts of 2 coats at a time leaving about 1 to 2 weeks between coats and totally prevents all those stories you hear about lacquer paint jobs being bad due to later dye back/cracking/shrinkage problems etc. Lacquer paint is not the problem it was because it was applied wrong. If you hammer on lacquer paint coats all in one session then it will bite you trapping all the solvent thinners between coats and not allowing them to evaporate ) So then lightly hit areas with 400, blow off surface, tack rag then apply another 2 coats and repeat the same process and set time till you have 10 coats applied ( 5 separate painting sessions as this will give you paint thickness needed to color sand later without sanding to primer ), then color sand, buff out. Then wait about 2 months leaving the car in the sun for the last 2 weeks with a cover over it, then wax the car. You can do all the painting outside if you have to on a low to no wind day like in the early morning hours. The biggest time consumer will be to match the color to the existing paint. TCP can do that for you and do a pretty good job of it if you have a part you can send them with the existing paint on it like a headlight rim or such. They can also sell you separate tints that goes into the paint if you need to tweak it onsite. Just have them create a match formula so you can have them easily repeat the process if more paint is needed later on.
  2. Hey guys. Purchased the CARS Inc accelerator bellows boot for one of my 57's . It arrived as a very astonishingly "thin" rubber mil wall thickness and it is composed of what appears to be that shiny injection molded rubber that does I have found does not hold up to heat. The movement of the accelerator pedal rod through it would most likely stress and tear the bellows in no time flat. Anyone with experience with this CARS bellows ? With that said, It does not have that EPDM class dull deep look to it. So asking if anyone knows of a non copycat supplier source for a quality correct bellows boot. The accelerator rod goes through the firewall and is not all that far from the exhaust manifold. I realize back in the day they did not have EPDM but most likely made the bellow wall thick to help withstand this heated area and continued flexing of the rod action through it.
  3. Looks to us like an older aging restoration via the standards of most likely the 80's. Underbody and frame just too nice and clean for this old lady. Also, have never seen a dash of the late forties or for that matter early 50's painted the same primary color as the body if the body color was white or yellow. It would be hard to see through the reflections off the dash / windshield therefore for safety sakes most likely not factory but I could be wrong as that has been known to happen. Someone has already taken the engine out and detailed it as well. Here are a few photos for posterity of this $ 22,000 to $ 25,000 convertible that recently sold not at this auction but afterwards. 7 years ago this car would of most likely sold for double this even with the passenger fender paint condition. btw: if this is lacquer the repaint in various areas is a simple task. Lacquer melts into the existing paint and you have to color sand the coats anyways bugs, drips or what have you. Last few coats thin out 100 to 150 percent and blend in. Easiest paint to repair. I see know time consuming Arts n Crafts projects in this car ... Just drive it and stun the masses :
  4. If the 401 2 bbl was indeed lower compression, then just like Buick did for 1957/58 364, indeed it would stand to reason it would have a lower milder cam With less air, less fuel and lower compression there is no need to lengthen the duration of the cam lobe for increased intake. Change that formula with increased compression like a dual carb setup or a single four and then the longer cam can be used. But just slapping on a four barrel on a low compression short lobe cam would show really no benefit that would be practical especially in passing and/or stomping to WOT. Jon - Thanks for the schooling on 1000 cfm TQ and I knew my brother had a hard time with his GX 455 back in the day to get the thing to be streetable and we did not realize about the idle circuit back then and no doubt if not working on the 455 with Stage-1 heads would not work for our OP and his Buick.
  5. ... just an option but I would not hesitate to install a 1000 cfm Thermoquad with adapter plate. You have the heads and cam already stock to handle the carb ...... Edit: Oh also install an HEI distributor and gap your plugs to around 40 and your good to go and if you did not keep your foot to the floor at least 75% (WOT) most of the time I would not only be surprised but shocked ! 😉
  6. .... D-452, I would start contacting 1st hand restoration shops out of Hemmings rather than general Buick parts suppliers and ask them where they source it from or if they would be open to being a conduit "middle man" for the product / part.
  7. Really fella's I think there is a way to save your " push accelerator to start " functions while adding an alternator : http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/PushGasToStartWithAlternator.htm ....... Also a whole other take on even going the Generator to Alternator route: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/convert-generator-to-alternator-on-56-buick.310615/
  8. ... Gee fellas how about this rig : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GMPPYYI/ref=psdc_15733961_t2_B003VZXY4K
  9. Lance I'll take em ...pm to you
  10. Hi Lance. So is the rear tail light bezel shroud cracked/dented/warped or just pitted ? And since you no doubt have had some chromed in the past what would you think it would cost to have the bezel chromed ? As for space there is always the ceiling and walls in the garage or house and the attic as well _ 😉
  11. So the Chicago Rawhide is rubber and not leather ? On my 57 I used the Best Gasket front seal and installed a hub cone over the old somewhat pitted outer surface of the balancer that the cover rides over. The old seal you are taking out if you look at your balancer hub may have a corroded track where it was in contact with the old seal of the balancer hub. If it is pitted and most times it is and usually is the cause of the leak you should purchase a hub sleeve kit. They can be purchased at Napa Auto Parts. Take your Mic or Calipers and get the outside O.D. as you will need that to purchase the right hub sleeve. With the new sleeve installed over the nose of your balancer hub your new rubber or rope replacement seal will have a clean virgin area on which to ride upon ensuring a good seal.
  12. Well Jim take a moment and let's think about that ... Is your reasoning for wanting to install a disk brake system is to stop faster or is it for dependability ? We already answered the dependability issue and that leaves us the issue of installing a disk brake system because of the perception that disk brakes can stop a car in a shorter span than drums and that drums get to a heat sink point and begin to fade. That much is true however, the disk brake system in order to accomplish a quicker stopping distance must rely on combined suspension components system designed specifically for the increased stresses brought on by anti-dive characteristics, sway etc. Items such as positioning, size and location of anti-sway bars; ideal and specific location of engine mounting within and along the axis of the frame, A-arms, coil springs, spindle size as per location, orientation and footprint just to mention some dynamics. In addition to that the added weight of a trailer adds to this. Of course you can setup your trailer to control it's own brakes with that of yours as that has been around even when most cars only used drum brakes. But with all that considered and comparing to drum brakes, if you are not tailgating in traffic and take your time on hills while pulling your trailer you should be just fine. Your large diameter Buick drums with their super wide footprint gives you a lot of stopping power. Besides that, unless your pulling a 36-foot Circus trailer your Buick will most likely weigh more than what a modern light weight trailer weighs. This is just some food for thought. ;') ///
  13. ... Jim, my opinion ... Just Install DOT 4 metal braided hoses on the fronts and the one going over the rear axle and your done that is given your factory MC is rebuilt, vacuum canister hoses new and your hard lines n shoes are new ... then your done. The original M.C. Treadle or Bendix vac is not going to implode like a rubber piston dual setup will eventually spontaneously do, that is why they have dual cylinders just because of that and they needed the proportioning valve as well. The only weak point the original factory setup had was the external hoses ... Save your money. Also installing a front disk brake setup just because you can slam it onto your existing spindle does not take into account the original front end dive suspension component dynamics that the original factory suspension had built into it that drum brakes dealt with very nicely, slowly and safely. Disk setups demand more from a suspension and that is why modern suspensions are designed differently on newer disk brake systems.
  14. John: My take is as you know, older tech suspension system wear accentuates or accumulates at various points which when individually viewed at their component level is very little to hardly none but when combined under torque stresses can actually shift the complete front suspension laterally upon hard braking. Truly a unique effect of old car charm engineering and back in the day was not really an issue cause no body had or knew any better. But we have become accustomed to today's smoother quieter technology in our modern cars and this once mundane acceptance of mechanical uniqueness now becomes an annoyance ... just my take.
  15. The Sagnaw box on a 57 is completely different from that of the 56 in size, length and hose alignment. I believe they hook up differently at the rag joint and at the frame rail along with other dimensional differences. You may get it to work with a lot of " Arts n Crafts " time and toil but I would square off and hunt down a 56 unit and rebuild that. Way better route to take ....
  16. Lance is right. Funny you should ask. I just went to my Dupont jobber the other day as they have been in business since the fifties and my guy there pulled out their original archival Dupont Duco Lacquer and Dupont Dulux Enamel books with the factory mix tint ratios and numbers all as used back in the day. Dupont has color close approximation mix formulas to duplicate the Duco Lacquer colors and provide the appropriate paint/binder/tint formulas that render a very good starting point that however still needs to be tweaked a bit for an exact match. My jobber came up with the formulas after contacting Dupont but they now have different names for these color formulas. Like in my instance, it is no longer called Antique Ivory but by another name. The Tangerine color came back as a big zero with no name or color tint code. So alas they do not have the Dupont Dulux Enamel paint/binder/tint formulas to duplicate the belt line and wheel colors. You would need to have your jobber start from scratch and color tint to match and provide you with a ratio mix formula so the color can be reproduced whenever in the future for you. That costs extra but is well worth it. To be absolutely correct in color hue and tint an enamel base paint should be used on trim and wheels. Some single stage urethane the trim and powder coat the wheels but this is a close match but not as exact if that is what you are after. In any event, have a good original piece of trim so it can be used as a reference based calibrator the jobber can base tint and color tint match off of. When I get around to color matching mine I will post the formula for posterity.
  17. Jim ...:') - just go down to the dealer and order some WA-30. We thinks the bottles have blue liquid in them :
  18. Wow, thanks Al for the photo clarity and tech info. So it is for a straight eight then .... The 53 Buick Special came with a last year offering from Buick for the straight eight as all other models for 53 and onward now had the new nail head V8 mill from the factory.
  19. ... thanks guys. Your right Al that is most likely the story with the last digit. The boot itself however is actually very pliable and like new so is most likely if not factory than aftermarket boot from the 70's or 80's - perhaps. Anyways, bought the boot without a lot of thought or effort on my part. The ebay seller indicated that the box was to come with the boot but just the boot arrived. The box has the part number but the rubber seal has no I.D. or part number embossed upon it. Cost me $ 15 so no big deal ... did not do my usual due diligence and this is what happens. I know that the 57 does not have an external boot so thought it was something additional and did not look up the part number just to see ... don't know what I was thinking 😴 Al, I know you have a 53 and if you could use this boot let me know and I will ship it out to you free of charge. If Al does not want it then anyone else who could use it is welcome to it. As far as fitment goes I have no idea but It is soft, pliable and undamaged. - dave
  20. Great points ... what I have done for at least the last 15 years is when winterizing in the fall I have a couple 5 gallon cans of real gas (non alcohol) that I get from either the marina or local municipal airstrip and put my favorite cocktail of fuel enzymes and stabilizers mixed well into it. Then hook my external fuel extractor unit to the detached incoming steel or rubber line of the fuel pump to it. It sucks most if not all the fuel out of the tank. Then reinstall the line and fill the tank up with about 2 gallons then start the car up and let it idle for about 5 minutes. This flushes the complete system. The external fuel extractor I use is battery operated and has a 1/2 id open hose with adaptors on one end and a hand held dispersal nozzle on the other end. I can use it to suck gas out of the vehicle tank as noted or use it to suck gas out of jerry cans or fuel containers to fill up with. Works simple and quick. But yes corn-a-ol wanna be gas gummy bears, coats, dissolves, separates and corrodes on a linear time basis meaning it worsens as it sets longer with time. In the spring the fuel is still fresh, no dried gaskets etc. just prime, spin and then start.
  21. 91vert: We would recommend : 1) Using this source for the carb rebuild parts for a multiple of reasons : http://www.daytonaparts.com/kits.html 2) Ideally, either recondition and reuse your original leather accelerator push rod get your hands on a leather replacement accelerator plunger and not a -plastic one. 3) Get your hands on 5 gallons of real gas not ethanol gas to do your startup after rebuilding the carb to spec as ethanol has a way of changing the fuel volumetric's to that of real gas that the original carb was spec'ed for. Makes getting everything set right before you put it into service then you can either recurve the distributor or tweak the idle circuit to accommodate the gas-o-hol volumetric's by way of adding an electric pusher pump near the gas tank. ... just a few nods of advice.
  22. Just picked up what was reported to be an NOS torque ball boot for the 57 Buick. Received it but there are no markings nor part numbers anywhere on the rubber. I seem to recall some years ago I had one with the box and it had numbers embossed on the side. Could this even be the right one or worse a NORS one ? I did not get the box with the sale as I thought I would ... Anyone ? Below is the sale photo:
  23. Here's a variety of 1957 heavy metal rides on this episode of Highway Patrol ... Buick, Dodge, Mercury, Ford and others ... pick out your favorite. It seems they all were equipped with posi traction and even when new these cars appear to have quite a bite and bark to the exhaust tone .... what with the 57 Police Special Buick having a possible beef'ed up 364 10:1 in it and this 57 Dodge with that tel-tale solid lifter 392 Hemi chatter. The 55 fords have their distinctive hollow Y-block sound and the Mercury is predictably throaty with what may be a 430 in it ?
  24. ... This is great and thanks for taking the time to post this which I think many perceive this whole process as daunting at best ...and with a video to boot ! Some of us here are challenged in just attempting to post a photo ... ; )