Marty Roth

I always add an ounce of Alemite CD-2 Lead Substitute, as well as 4 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil for each 10 gallons of gas for each of my collectible cars. I know that some here on the FORUM will say it isn't necessary, but I've accumulated hundreds of thousands of miles on them over the many years we've been touring cross-country without pre-ignition, valve seat recession, or other mechanical complication. I've always been told to use the lowest octane gas on which my engine will NOT PING (the sound of marbles rattling in a coffee can), and using higher-than-needed octane is a waste of money, and contributes to vapor lock. I've also found that it is better to reduce octane in higher elevations. Your car - your choice - just my $ 0.02 .

Congratulations on an unusual find - certainly an interesting project to keep you off of the streets.. Where are you located? The body seems to have survived the elements surprisingly well, considering being left outside for so many years

Jon, Just a public note as a great big note of thanks for the advice and help you've offered since I bought what was once Fred Long's 1915 Hudson Six-40 7-passenger Touring from Dave Lanning. We've been tinkering with her and expect to have her on the show field at the AACA Meet in Virginia Beach on May 2nd. Age has taken its toll on the 100 year old Grand Dame, but considering that she took an AACA 1st in 1957, and a Senior in 1961, and Preservation in 1989, it will be interesting to have folks enjoy seeing her again. Thank you again for the copy of your article which was published in the January 1990 issue of the "HUDSON-AIRE" the newsletter of the Chesapeake Bay Chapter, HET. The article, offered with permission of the author, is presented here: ARTICLE FRED LONG-1915 HUDSON 6-40 FROM 1990.pdf

Not sure about your year/model, but I've known a bad diaphragm in a brake vacuum booster to cause similar symptoms.

I've spoken with Steve several times, and been invited to visit, but our schedules haven't coincided yet - hopefully soon...

If it is like the '34 50 Series, the harmonic balancer between the 1st and 2nd cylinders might have to be removed if one of those pistons have to come out - otherwise pistons MUST be removed from bottom - The bottom of the piston rod is bigge than the cylinder bore, as I recall from my 34-50

Another slightly different approach on David's suggestion: A seller would not take my "out-of-State" check, many years ago, and I wanted a proof-of-payment. I wrote him a check - he endorsed it back to me - I gave hiom cash for the check - and I deposited my check in my bank to my account which resulted in a ZERO transaction. A goofy way to go around the bush, but it worked ! Hey, David - maybe see you between VA Beach and Auburn?

Actually, I have had somebody turn down cash! The seller reminded me that the Feds receive a report from your bank that you have withdrawn, or deposited a transaction of $10,000 or more, and this can trigger an investigation per that transaction , as well as by the IRS at tax-time. Ask me how I know! Some years ago when I was looking to buy a very specific type of car, if one came up, or would be at auction, I would go to my bank , typically on a Wednesday or Thursday and take a large previously arranged cash advance, typically anywhere from $25,000 to $150,000 on my credit card (only minimum fees of $5 plus minimum interest were required back then). I would then travel to the seller or the auction, and after not buying the car, I would immediately pay off the credit card advance by phone , calling the credit card company to transfer the amount from my bank account so that interest would not pile up. As soon as I was back in town, usually the next Monday or Tuesday, I would deposit all of the cash back into my accounts. I thought it was a relatively inexpensive way to have available cash with me for a short period of time, and only pay 5 or 6 days interest at 5%/year, since $100,000 at 5% for 6 days is only around $10 plus $5 for the transaction Fee. The nasty surprise was that I was audited by the IRS, scrutinized, mesmerized, Bluto-ized, minimized, pulverized, and my accountant and I spent days answering the most inane questions, and providing documentation on minute details of personal, medical, and business transactions, all of which were entirely appropriate and legitimate - actually I was entitled to more deductions than claimed. Eventually over coffee, my accountant asked the IRS representative what they were really looking for. It turns out that the multiple cash withdrawals and deposits of $10,000 or more triggered the red flags, and they now suspected that I was a Drug Dealer. It took some pretty fancy "Splainin' " and the details of my car collection, but the IRS finally agreed that there was no impropriety. Now I do not make cash transactions of $10,000 or more. Wire transfers are the safest. I have had other sellers refuse large cash payments for the same reason.

Wire transfers can be done between almost any two banks anywhere. The funds are not typically credited until the next day If done prior to both bank's closing time, and while the FED is open, the funds can generally be available immediately.

Pre-arrange with your own bank to assure that you have"All of your Ducks in a Row" - in other words, know what your bank requires to do a wire transfer - Generally: Recipient's Name, His Bank's Full Name, the Branch's Street Address & Phone Number, His Account & Routing Numbers Some banks have additional requirements - so check it out beforehand, and don't be shy about asking the seller to check with his bank to see what requirements they might have. Also note that while some banks wire funds when you ask, others only do it once or twice each day, and some actually have to go to another institution to execute a transfer. That way, when everything about the car as well as the deal are satisfactory, you can do the transfer right then and there.

Bob, I've had relatively good luck with repairs to windshields - mostly in my Suburban tow vehicle. None are directly in my field of vision, but the original windshield in the Chevy, purchased new in November of 2001 now has about nine or ten repairs, all done by Safe-lite. The cost is moderate, and while I asked about replacing the windshield prior to the last repair to three spots, the receptionist (whom I've known for at least 27 years) said "sure if you really want it, but you'll probably just get another chip in a couple of weeks, what with all the traveling you do". None of the repairs has ever spread beyond the original area, but one minor "stone hit" which happened to my Excursion during a drive from a Meet in Moline to a Meet in Cheyenne resulted in leaving the tow vehicle at the Denver airport for a week (or three?). When I returned, the damage had spread completely across the windshield, necessitating replacement. I would certainly feel differently about a show car, but a tour/driver could live with repairs, and for the few bucks difference, I would let the "pro" handle it, especially the pre-heating and sealing process. Good luck whichever way you go.

A gentle, decent man - Larry's passing is a loss to the hobby, as well as to his family.

With some very rare cars, only three or four were originally built, and all seventy-three still exist.....

I generally use a modest deposit check or wire transfer as a deposit to lock in the purchase/option, and then upon acceptance of the car, I use cash, wire transfer, or a combination of the two.

Bob, I've been told that a 50/50 mix of antifreeze both lowers the freezing temperature and raises the boiling temperature, as well as containing Anti-Rust properties. That said, I've also been told that pure distilled water actually cools better than a mix, and that adding Anti-Rust chemical to distilled water is better for our cars, as long as the cooling system is drained prior to freezing weather. It is my experience that "Generic brands are made by the same companies for major discount chains, and that any differences are inconsequential. That said, most odf us feel that our vintage chariots are worth a "couple of bucks more - just in case".

.... still, the workmanship seems exquisite ...

Great to have a new P-A at the Coco Homestead -- congratulations!! Hopefully Dale and I can stop by for a few minutes in between the AACA Meets at Virginia Beach and Auburn for a personal viewing 2 weeks from tomorrow or so. PS: We will likely have the '15 Hudson Six-40 in the trailer.

Our weather had been very rainy all week, and I decided not to get my 1934 or 1937 Buicks out because the forecast had been iffy for Sunday - nice that they were wrong. Instead of a real Buick, we decided to get out the plastic Chevy Drove the '88 'Vette to a local multi-carclub picnic today, and then to New Orleans' Lakeshore Drive... Note the License Plate in the first photo -- (Pinky Randall - "Mr. Chevrolet" says a Buick is a Chevrolet with Lock Washers) Based on the suggestion of a Louisiana State Trooper who understood my little joke, but told me I was looking for undue scrutiny, I went to DMV Headquarters, had them assign the "BUICK" plate to the 1937 Roadmaster 80C PHAETON, then had them reassign the "TOURING" plate to the 'Vette, and ordered a new Louisiana Antique Personalized plate "AACA" for the 1915 Hudson Six-40 7-passenger Touring we recently brought home. Dale was seriously relaxed as the 85 degree clear and sunny skies warmed her at the New Orleans Lakefront and Lighthouse Point. Years ago, folks would go there to watch the Submarine Races.

Anytime, Lamar.....

Jon, I sent you a PM and would really like to know all of the details. Thank you.

amphicar770, If you should later decide that you don't want the FL, I'll give you your money back. Is the FL a "V-Nose" ? and does it have a driver side access door?

I own two enclosed trailers, one an all-steel Tow-Eze with steel diamond plate floor, and the other an all-aluminum Forest River with aluminum floor. Both are well-built. I also once owned a Haulmark - they are reasonably built to-a-price in my opinion -- not a bad trailer by any stretch, but they did not seem to be the same level of quality as some of the more expensive brands. I would take the Featherlite.

Dave, That is a beautiful car, and I would think well worth the price.

My first Hudson, a 1915 Six-40 7-passenger Touring. This car belonged to Fred Long of Maryland through the 1950s until his estate passed it to Dave Lanning in Florida about a dozen years ago. I haven't yet re-sized the photos to be able to post here.

Henry Shane's museum, Cars of Yesteryear is walking distance (less than a half-mile) from our home, and is a wonderful collection of cars, toys, and Pontchartrain Beach Amusement Park memorabilia, occasionally open to special groups. Our local club was invited several years ago.