Marty Roth

Sometimes we smaller targets become easier prey. Wayne was right in his action and deserves support - not criticism, in my opinion. Our club resources are to promote the hobby, not to be used for need of legal representation which could have been avoided. While we are each entitled to our private thoughts, this is not the place for a "Soap Box" (... and I have, in my corporate past, worked with a couple of major corporations - and they were not beyond litigious - especially when going after a "little guy"

I've had great success and even better service with COKER

It does look a bit like my wife's 2005 Chrysler Sebring Touring Convertible, but if we needed to replace it, I'd certainly consider the Buick over the Fiat-owned Chrysler.

Bob, The color on the original valve cover from my spare '34 engine is "BLACK". I finally got to the shed this afternoon - sorry for the delay.

Bob, the center "dots" on the ebay car are the name tag for lights made by "TRIPPE" The hexagonal form in the driving lights on my blue '34 pictured are that of "GUIDE", and were GM as opposed to aftermarket

The greatest bulk of AACA's roughly 60,000 National Memberships are renewed each year between October and December. That is a lot of paperwork, check and credit card processing plus return mail during the holiday rush. From my personal experience, nobody in the office is slacking off. The office personnel always do a fantastic job, in my opinion.

Earl, You, of course, are correct. Try as we might, we cannot control what happens to our cars once they leave our stewardship - regardless of what a purchaser might promise. He could change his mind, or could later sell to another individual. We (many of us) remember the late Bob Thurstone and the wonderful totally original 1930 Packard 733 convertible coupe which he and Betty drove on so many Glidden Tours - and they did drive them to and from tours as well. I drove along with them on the 1996 Glidden from Birmingham, AL to Asheville, NC where the tour then headed for Dearborn, MI. Well, now that Packard, which was sold to someone in Ohio, belongs to a gentleman in Michigan who is having it "modernized" with newer suspension, steering, and a small-block Chevy engine. I'm not saying that the owner cannot make his changes, and thankfully he allowed me to buy the complete driveline, suspension, wheels and axles as spares for my 1930 Packard 733. Thank you for your kind comments in regard to my '34 Buick - and I appreciate your thoughts per your preference to the 40-Series and the more modern engine with the downdraft carburetor. We did look at several 40-Series cars and know how good they are, but found that Dale and I preferred the longer wheelbase, Chrome headlight housings (vs. painted), Chromed externally mounted Trumpet Horns (vs. painted and under hood), and other upscale touches which the 50-Series provided. Our real desire was for a 90-Series convertible Sedan, but finding a really solid original example in our range of affordability was not realistic, and when Lyle offered me his car which we had known for 5 years, we decided to jump. Sure, I could flip the manifold and mount a downdraft carb, but my car would no longer be original, and - as you and I agree - what next?? - fat tires? disc brakes? 454ci Buick engine? Yes, we are not going to stop the rain - but hopefully we can tread water for now, at least among those of us who treasure originality. Thanks again for your comments.

Back in Linden, NJ in the 1950s the Fire Chief's car was a stick-shift 1953 Mercury 2-door. I drove it a few times (to be serviced ??) , and it was a quick example. I could have been the envy of the Drive-In with that one, but later bought a black '54 Mercury convertible.

Great News !! you FORUM supporters are the best at sharing ... and especially your knowledge of resources

I did a little bit of polishing... ....and it is "Kind-of" a Buick... ....... OK, so it is a Chevy with Lock Washers, but thinks it is a little brother to the big Buicks

If anybody here on the Buick site needs a first-hand - hands-on look at the car, I am within 15 minutes of the seller. I've offered to look it over, and to provide any help. Where I live is about half-way between the New Orleans French Quarter and the Airport. Would be glad to help any potentially serious buyer....... ....and I do have some personal knowledge of vintage Buicks !

Thanks Bleach, - I appreciate the compliment - but I wasn't trying to hijack the thread. Most of us here appreciate the work which goes into a Streetrod, but prefer originality as well. My 1934 was a Central Valley California car from new until 1970, and then babied by a BCA member in Colorado Springs until I brought her home to Louisiana in 1995. She was our Tour/Driver until 2006 when we decided to do a few repairs which turned into a professional 5-year restoration. Since then she has been awarded all of her AACA Recognition from First Junior all the way to Senior Grand National. I can't help but wonder if I really should let her go, now that we do more of our touring in the '37 Buick, '41 & '54 Caddys, & '30 Packard. Of course it would have to be only to the "right" kind of owner....... but if she went to another home, I'd have room for another Brass Car - hopefully a 1915 or early 1916 Cadillac Touring ? Then again, I should probably sell the 1970 Cadillac triple-black convertible - and the 1986 3/4 ton 2500 Suburban, and ......

You might be able to have mine for a bit less...(LOL) and this is what they look like without modification... Actually that is a very nice Street Rod !!

John, per your quote: I have a good friend of mine who lives in Maine and was towing with a 2500 Suburban (gas powered, GM never made a diesel Surburban), actually Suburbans used to be available with a Diesel engine, and they were a darned fine machine in my opinion (although some may disagree). I don't recall when it was that you could no longer get a suburban with a Diesel, but I believe that they were available through the 1995 Model Year, and so could possibly have been an option through 1999. The "new" body style in the 2000 model year apparently has a floor pan design which does not allow the Diesel engine - or so it was explained to me by a Senior VP at GM. Since I wanted a new 3/4 ton 2500 series with the Duramax Diesel and the 6-speed Allison 1000 tranny, he suggested that I wait a year or two - then told me that the Diesel will no longer in the Suburban platform... So I bought my 2002 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1 gas engine... I later also bought a lightly used 231,000 mile Ford Excursion with the 7.3 Turbo-Diesel with 4-WD for winter and for pulling my enclosed trailers with a Caddy or Packard when heading for the Rockies or the Pennsylvania hills. Our Suburban has well over 145K miles now and the Ford has passed 315K miles. Diesel Maintenance is MUCH more expensive, and these days the fuel mileage DOES NOT make up the difference, but pulling power is priceless if the hippie in the VW Microbus is straining to pass you on a 2-lane mountain road - and shaking his fist while giving you the "Hawaiian Peace Sign".

Larry, West, I recently bought the AIRTEX E8902 which is a 6-Volt electric fuel pump. It was $31.02 with free shipping on Amazon.com. I haven't installed it yet. At the same time, I also ordered a spare 6V OPTIMA 8010-044-FFP Battery at $112.59, (also with free shipping, and by then way, there was also no sales tax).

Wow - great find. I've always liked the style of the Club Sedan, ever since I first saw one in Trimacar's (David's) garage many moons ago.

Bob, If I can get to my shed this weekend, I'll check the colors of a couple of the unrestored original 1034 Buick engine oil pans and rocker covers.

I'm glad to learn that you and Fred did get together. Although there is a wait to become a member of the local region, I hope you will consider this fine group. Their members are local for you, and have a wealth of experience.

It might be easier for you to look at the area below the tail light If there is a letter "V" then the car has a V8 engine, and if not then it is a 6 cylinder. tell the parts store which engine, and check with them to see, if it is a V8, if you can bring home the kit for both a 2-barrel, and a 4-barrel carburetor, and then return the one he does not need. That way you are covered, and he will be pleased that you are so resourceful.

It looks similar to my 1954 Cadillac, but probably not identical

Bob, You could just scrape the thick stuff, and then use HOT water with DAWN dish detergent and stiff scrub brushes and scrub pads. This stuff really lifts oil and grease. That is what we used to clean pelicans and gulls who were immersed in crude oil after the BP oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. Follow-up washing with more water finishes the job. Just my 2 cents...

...and even if the wire were always live, you could just unplug the trailer, but it would simply recharge when the truck was running, and keep level with the truck's battery at other times Marty in warm & sunny New Orleans ....... mid 70s yesterday

Welcome to AACA. The more you get involved the more you will come across some of the most helpful, informed and helpful people in the old car universe.

Not saying it is the best way, but....... years ago I bought a beater of a 1960 Valiant with way over a couple of hundred thousand miles on it. It ran poorly, missing, and using lots of oil. A Porsche mechanic/friend met me at his shop in nLong Island City, NY on a Saturday morning. I drove onto a set of ramps, drained the oil, changed the filter, and added a mixture of 60% 10W-40 detergent oil and 40% ATF. We partially blocked the radiator with cardboard and ran the engine at about 1700 RPM for about 20 minutes at high temperature just below overheating - then immediately drained the oil. We repeated this process with fresh filters 3 or 4 times until the drained oil came out as clean as it went in, and then did another change with just detergent oil. The end result was that the "stuck" rings freed-up and stopped the oil consumption, and the newly-cleaned valve lifters started working properly. The old slant six ran like a charm for years afterward and was then passed on to a friend who, as far as I know may still be driving it. The flush did a great job of cleaning out the accumulated sludge and bringing back many miles of useful life.

You could just leave the mechanical pump in place without negative consequence - except if the diaphragm were ruptured it could send gas into your oil, diluting the oil and ultimately causing an explosion - but this would be the case even without an auxiliary electric pump. Install the electric pump as far to the rear, and as low as reasonable. Electric pumps are "PUSHER", not "PULLER" style. You do not need to have the electric running all of the time. If your car has been sitting up for an extended time, and if gas has drained back, the electric pump can be used to prime the fuel line, provide gas to the mechanical fuel pump, and therefore to the carburetor. A couple of quick pumps on the accelerator pedal (without turning on the ignition switch) will get gas into the float bowl, and will set the automatic choke. Then you can: 1. turn off the electric pump, 2. turn on the ignition switch, 3. step on the Accelerator pedal Your Buick should start right up. Later, while driving, if as a result of heat or ethanol gas, you happen to notice your car surging or showing signs of hesitation, it is likely experiencing "Vapor Lock". When this occurs, simply switch ON the electric pump and allow it to run. Even a short time is generally enough to clear the vapor-lock and allow your car to run well, but at times you may need to keep it running, depending on external conditions. It makes little sense to install the electric pump, and then to bypass the mechanical pump which is generally more than capable of maintaining you car's operation. Besides, what if you had an electrical failure? Generally you could make it home, especially if you turn off the radio, heater, use only parking lights if travelling with other cars, etc. But if you depended solely on an electric fuel pump, that is one more current draw! Good Luck, Marty