Marty Roth

Per my torn rotator cuff/bicep - bring your wax and buffer, the one I married is also no longer operable

Look at AIRTEX on Amazon.com I've used them for many years -: 1. Prime a system after long-term storage 2. Overcome Vapor lock

I've always had excellent experience with JC Taylor & Foremost - multiple claims per Hurricane Katrina, and some additional more recent ones. Absolutely First Class operation !

bump

Mike, several of our RVer friends like this location: It is clean - not fancy, relatively affordable, and safe. About 1/2 hour from downtown

Thank you to the many FORUM members who sent a PM asking if we are OK. The damage was devastating to several neighborhoods, as well as several other communities across the area. We were already en route, driving to the AACA Annual Meeting on Philadelphia. We've learned from our daughter that family are all safe, and other than some hail and wind damage, our area seems to have been spared. i've been in touch with members in the Lagniappe Chapter which hosted the Fall 2015 Meet in Houma, LA, and they thankfully appear not to have significant damage, but I'll stay in touch with the rest of our Region's Chapter members. Again, thanks to all who expressed concern Marty

Thank you Mike, I also enjoyed today's conversation and look forward to your visit. Wishing you you safe travels - and bring your appetite, Dale and I have some neighborhood Mom & Pops' that locals ( and connoisseurs alike) prefer to the more pretentious (but also excellent) places. I hope you find New Orleans a fun diversion from Colorado winters. Marty

And here is a more expensive - 3 Ton option: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapidpump-62248.html

I carry the Aluminum one from Harbor Freight - usually $59.95, and they often have a 20% discount coupon On-line shows $79.95, but often less in store http://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton-compact-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-60569.html Lightweight and never had a problem - actually I have 3 of them: one in Garage one in tow vehicle one in closed trailer - but not for trailer - I use a plastic ramp for the trailer - jack is for whichever old car is in trailer I also have a good bottle jack in most of the old cars

Wayne, Have we found you a new labor source? Does the kidlet have a CDL?

Joe, At that time we were still doing joint fund raising for the Library and the Museum. Also at at that time our negotiations were proceeding. It was always our wish for both organizations to succeed, and for both organizations to benefit our members. I still wish success to the Museum, but my loyalty at this time is to OUR AACA CLUB and OUR AACA LIBRARY.

Thanks for your thoughts Robert. I've been towing for better than 57 years, am very aware of safety requirements, and would never suggest exceeding safe limits. I'm content with the Ford Explorer's specifications, and know my Explorer is solid as designed. As previously noted, we generally tow with out 2500 Series vehicles. Most of us with any real experience won't fool with U-Haul trailers as far as I know - and most of us learn, and respect our manufacturers specifications for our vehicles. Maybe U-Haul knows that their clients are prone to overload their equipment. In any event, I'm not proposing that anyone use a vehicle with which they are uncomfortable, to tow a U-Haul, or any other trailer. We have all seen the ridiculous rigs swaying down the highway. Always keep safety as a primary objective

Left Upper Corner of the screen for the left upper corner of the country?

sending you an email

Where in New Jersey are you located?

I am Headed to Philly - leaving Tuesday - or sooner? I might be able to trailer this Explorer for the right option Click on my name to send me a message. PM or Email

This Eddie Bauer 4x4 is specifically set up for trailering. It it has the 3L73 which is the LIMITED SLIP or "LOCKER" type with the 3.73:1 Ratio, both front and rear, giving the best possible towing ability. I'm not aware of U-Haul's concerns, but cannot imagine any problems since the factory set up is specific to safe trailering, and we always use an equalizer hitch for every towing situation - purely for safety and comfort. Maybe U-Haul uses that in case of a less capable configuration? You see Explorers towing every manner of trailer whenever you hit the road.

This Eddie Bauer 4x4 is specifically set up for trailering. It it has the 3L73 which is the LIMITED SLIP or "LOCKER" type with the 3.73:1 Ratio, both front and rear, giving the best possible towing ability. I'm not aware of U-Haul's concerns, but cannot imagine any problems since the factory set up is specific to safe trailering, and we always use an equalizer hitch for every towing situation - purely for safety and comfort. Maybe U-Haul uses that in case of a less capable configuration? You see Explorers towing every manner of trailer whenever you hit the road.

Bob, finding the right no-rust Monza convertible could be a full-time job - as me how I know !! After several years of searching for the "right" 1965-1966 Monza convertible, I finally was able to purchase this: 1965 Monza 110 Hp, 4-speed, No-Rust original with an older repaint in Metallic Marina Blue with perfect white interior. I believe that I'm the 3rd owner, and bought it from a friend whose wife wanted it since it was identical to the one she bought new upon college graduation - She owned it for about eight years before we bought it less than two years ago. I have in the past several months added a perfect white convertible top, 5 new whitewall radial tires, and ALL new rubber seals for the top, doors, hood, and trunk. The boot cover is new, white, and has never been installed. This great driver now shows 23,xxx miles after our round-trip to South Florida, and is believed to be accurate. I intended to make this one my cross-country tour-driver, replacing three (3) Corvairs which were passed to children of a friend before being lost to Hurricane Katrina. Having heard a sound in the left rear wheel bearing, I was about to replace it, but instead have just ordered from Clark's Corvair: (not yet installed) a complete set from the inner and outer U-Joints through the bearings, hubs, all new rear suspension bushings, and brakes - everything from the transaxles through the brake shoes for the rear, and new front brake shoes as well.. I figured if one bearing was starting to make a noise, then "Let's do the whole thing right ! It may be extremely low mileage, but it is 52 years old. I drove this car from New Orleans to the Meet at Naples, Florida and back one year ago. The original radio even plays! I intended this one to be our "Keeper", but my wife's knee surgery has not completely solved her issues, and exiting a very low car is difficult for her. We may also have to sell the '88 Corvette, but that is a story for another day. I have many more photos which I can text to you, showing a few relatively minor flaws (wrinkle behind left headlight - couple of minor scrapes, slight ding from touch by handle of floor jack just behind right door), as well as the excellent quality of the interior. Here is a link to Hagerty's description and valuation: https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1965-Chevrolet-Corvair-Monza?id=37601 I feel this low mileage sweetheart of a Monza convertible is better than a solid #3, which Hagerty values at only $12,300. Beyond that, I have just laid out more than $1,000 on parts, not necessarily required, but as an investment toward a sure-fire cross-country cruiser. To the right home, I could live with the Hagerty value of $12,300, and include all of the new parts before I start doing the mechanical replacements noted - most of which is simply preventative, and very likely unnecessary and overkill - but that's just me. Click on my name to PM me and send contact information.

I had the honor and privilege of driving Don Barlup's 1914 Pullman several years ago on an AACA reliability Tour. Don, his wife Carol, and their dedication to the club are a credit to the hobby and to the AACA.

I've had good luck with products from COVERCRAFT. They do have several types depending upon type of outdoor/indoor storage, and also have custom fit covers. I currently use them on occasion when on tour for our Corvette, Corvair, '37 Roadmaster, '41 and '54 Cadillacs, and Suburban. There are some cheaper ones in ther discount stores, but you get what you pay for.

The most recent three (3) new vehicles I bought, I went to the Fleet Manager of the dealership, identified exactly which model, color, and accessories I would accept, (either in stock - trade with other dealerships - or special order). My knowledge of dealer cost made my offer very specific. GMAC offered a 0% rate for 36 months - but later purchases had GMAC match my bank's best rate. I would pay only Dealer Cost MINUS one-half of the Holdback. In the recent case where there was a modest interest rate to GMAC, I chose that plan. At the same time I was able to negotiate a very substantial cash advance on a major credit card where they charged only a $10 fee and no percentage advance fee at 0% interest for two years, so I used that amount to buy a 5% CD at a S&L. I also have a couple of GM credit card accounts which earn purchase credits toward acquisition of GM products. Since I will not need another new car anytime soon, I'm able to share these credits with others, who I may allow to use them at a discounted rate. So if you are planning to buy or lease a GM product, after you negotiate your best deal, get with me or a friend who has this type of account with a GM card. You could likely save yourself a substantial amount more - completely legit - I've done it for 4 friends already. They use my accumulated credited amount as an authorized user on my account for the day of the purchase give me a lesser amount - they get a discount to use as a substantial down payment, and I get a lesser cash amount for a reserve i'm not using. This was suggested to me by GM, and it helps all around.

also enjoyed the Jensen Healey in the attachment

We had an extremely low mileage (1,056 mile) 1962 Rambler Classic "400" 4-door sedan with reclining seats, and with brackets in a paper bag in the glove box. The "U"-shaped rubber encased brackets wold be installed into slots below the rear seat cushion to support the reclining front seat backs to make the car into a bed. Either side coold be operated independently. Ours did not have the head rest, but another option was the reclining seat whi, as I recall, also elevated the passenger's legs

Bases with screw holes are typically aftermarket