JZRIV

What size is the bolt head (in inches)? Almost looks like its from one of the toque converter bolts. Are you saying the car does not move when put in gear? Or it moves, but makes noise?

Sorry folks I deleted the info I posted for the 66 as an ROA friend is working on a serious offer and don't need competition! Thanks for understanding

I wish I had better news but those parts have been in high demand for 30+ years so anything left in a salvage yard is likely to be in similar condition. I remember paying to have those items shipped from Colorado to PA in the 90s as they were scarce then. If you do find them rust free, chances are they will be very expensive. How bad is yours? The rad support, and inner fender can be rebuilt if its not totally gone. Its not a high visible area so it doesn't have to look perfect. The worst problem is if the rad support mount is rotted away and many are. Anyway, I'd look "seriously" at the possibility of rebuilding what you have.

I'd contact a competent automotive sound system installer. They will know what all is available for your particular problem. Aside from adding general sound deadening, you could also have a situation where the inner and outer trunk lid skins come in contact with each other. They are spot welded so there will be gaps that will vibrate with a sub. Due to the design of the inner skin, these gaps aren't accessible and that can make it very challenging to eliminate hence suggestion to contact a professional.

Those are nice visible stamps. Thanks for posting. I believe the 116 stamp is relative to a date code. I see a partially obscured letter before it which is normal. Probably a D, sometimes N. It is my own opinion that stands for Day or Night shift. That's just my own "deducement" LOL . No black and white facts to back it up the D or N Note: "Casting" numbers are raised above surface because they were "cast in" when part was made/molded. Stamps "indented into the surface" were done later with a hand stamp and hammer during some level of the assembly process to further identify or date the item based on its final application. Actually the 3.07 open is my favorite driving differential in the 2nd gen. These aren't race cars and posi's generally serve no purpose the way most of us use them today but they can create a hassle when they start chattering as the clutches start binding. While the 3.42 posi (standard on the GS) is great for bragging rights, they suck for highway driving with today's speeds. 3.07s put rpms in a much better place at 80mph

This baby was decently optioned! Probably a good parts car for the buyer

That's a casting part number and date code. Meaningless to what diff and gearing is inside. Look at bottom of driver side axle tube about 2-5" over from differential housing. Look for a 2 letter stamped code. Mostly likely a PJ which is 3.07 open. PM is 3.07 Posi, PY is 3.42 posi. This info is in your shop manual. Also if posi there will be an X with circle around it after the 2 letter code. If stamps are not legible due to rust then you need to go to other methods. Posi's always have a limited slip lube only tag under one of the cover bolts unless it was removed which is not likely.

I have some experience in that special skill. LOL

Rotate engine to where the points are open, or you can disconnect either the primary positive wire or ground wire from coil.

That spacing looks about the same as the KX stamped super wildcat engines. Its wider than the KW

The factory has been known to mis-stamp codes. Especially on the infrequently used codes like the export KV would have been. Could have been as simple as the line worker looking at the Y stamp and seeing a V because he had too much to drink the night before. Another possibility is; looking at alphabet, VWXY, with W being the most common stamp, then X for the Super Wildcat option, maybe early on in export builds there was a miscommunication and someone assumed Y would be the logical letter to use for export rather than the V which is before W....😳 Until documentation is surfaces that indicates Y was used for something, a stamping error is probably plausible.

Paul, I'm not a 1st gen guy but that does not look like an original hose or routing for the hose. Hopefully one of the 1st gen chaps will confirm. The pressure hose is available new, RockAuto, Napa etc. Yes it should be a pretty simple job. Maybe a 2 on a scale of 1-10. But as we old car buffs know, we must use the word "simple" cautiously as sometimes the simplest job can turn into a can of worms....more so if a previous owner already had their hands on it. 😬

12 degrees doesn't seem likely. I've never measured it but with the old eyecrometer, it never seemed even close to 12 degrees so I'd want to check it myself before going any further. Indeed with 2 CV joints, pinion angle would not be much of a concern as long as the car is in stock form. Is there any evidence that the driveline angle has been worked on or modified? If the angle was ever changed from factory setting you may see witness marks on the upper control arm which is adjustable. If everything looks stock, don't worry about it.

The suction line (Larger one) will get a light frost on the outside of metal section when system is working normal. The amount will vary depending on humidity and ambient temp. Often they will frost up and look white, then once shut off it just drips off. I'd say its normal.

Who is telling you there are 2 different pumps for the 70 Riv application? As far as I know there is only one. If you go to a local NAPA or Rockauto and order by application you will be fine

If you are able to buy an original Buick color chip chart like this, https://www.ebay.com/itm/313442074597?hash=item48fa9a7fe5:g:hQkAAOSw7tBgQPyR your Sherwin Williams automotive paint supply shop should be able to scan and match the chip if they have modern paint scanners. The scan will produce a formula close and then trial and error test sprays will need done to dial it in for a perfect match. The Sherwin Williams stores common in every town USA do not carry or support their automotive paint line. The automotive division suppliers are mainly wholesale to body shops. I am not sure if Automotivetouchup.com can ship to Bahrain but if they do that may be your best option. Burnt Coral is an awesome color. It will be worth the effort

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ They have the paint in any type and size of container from a touchup pen to gallons. I bought a small brush-in-bottle touchup a few years back and it was an exact match as has been anything else I have got from them. Paint codes probably won't help much anyway as color additives have chemically changed so drastically over the years that mixing to an older code won't get the result you want.

If my math is right that cam has a 114 degree lobe separation. With no overlap that will be a very streetable cam producing good vacuum and smooth idle. I'm far from a cam expert but in all the research I've done in my opinion the factory dual quad cam is superior specifically for the Riviera, and I'm not sure why that grind has never been reproduced. Tom T will have a better technical response.

You are correct on wheels and ain't kidding about the wheel spacers. They are huge and it would be unsafe to drive! Remove them and the the wheel will rub the drum, but usually only a 1/4" spacer is needed to prevent rubbing. Looks like a quickie cheap paint job and no attention paid to masking or other details. 🤔

And no Fisher Body tag? Very odd for that to have been removed. Someone may have incorrectly thought the Fisher tag had info that would verify the factory SW option so they got rid of the evidence. LOL

There are so many variables when it comes to trim height especially on 50 plus year old cars that haven't had suspension work or had work using incorrect parts. Check your shop manual. Stock height in front is 7-15/16" from front rocker to level surface. Rear is 1/4"-3/8" lower.

In 66 for the first time Buick offered automatic A/C climate control which was supposed to automatically maintain a set temperature in varying outside ambient conditions......but it never worked. Of course that technology has improved significantly since but as a first attempt, it failed miserably. They tried to update it in 67 with some changes but still no good. In my opinion it was Buick's worst design of the era. The system was so complex and different from manual its very difficult to convert a car from auto climate control to a manual system. Feel VERY fortunate your car has manual control A/C! I want to ad on the Fisher tag codes, these are codes that required Fisher Body to perform a process to accommodate the specific option. The bodies were built at a different location and shipped to Flint for final assembly. Some options like 4 note horns or AM/FM stereo did not require FB to prep for them so there is no option code on the tag.

John, There are a great many differences in 66/67s but I have never seen or experienced any difference in the floor shifter or console. If there is a difference, its very subtle.

Ed, ROA photo gallery, St Charles tab, page 4 https://rivowners.org/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=15&fullsize=1

I thought this was a very tidy example of a 70. I cannot fault it anywhere. Sorry was not able to save and post pic from listing. Just noticed it has front disc brakes. https://bluelineclassics.com/cars-for-sale/1970-buick-riviera